TONY C

I'm in.

My experiances Not Gospel! 225 front 250 rear. Tokico Ilumina. Bouncy. Poor ride quality. 2 years of hard street driving they were all leaking. 6 months later I am still waiting for them to make them good. Tokico= Total Crap! Same springs. Koni Special "D" inserts. Excellent traction. Never knew the car could drive soo good and corner even better. Firm but not harsh. My G-tech says I am putting 290hp to the wheels. Koni for the win!

just to let you know. I got the axels and the conpanion flanges in the for sale section. Sorry to hear about the brake. Nice car tho!

s30 and s31 are different. You could make them. send me your email and I will mail you some pics of mine

I think it is gonna look Great!

I hear what you guys are saying. I was concerned at first too. And like I said. It may fly apart tomorrow. So far so good. I was just figuring that road racing with the continuous abuse would be pretty hard on it. I have drag raced it about 25 times and turned times between 6.2-6.8 in the 1/8th. I am going to leave it till I feel it needs attention or something happens. I have around 3500 Hard miles on it so far. I hadn't seen that vid before. However I have seen a few rotories blow the flywheel. Seems to be somewhat comon on them. Maybe if he were running a Z flywheel I would be more concerned.

I found them on flea bay. I had 2 sets and tried to sell them on here for 3 months. No one ever seemed to want them so I resold them on the bay.

I have them on my 75. I went abs on the rear too because the metal 1's imo. just didn't look rite with the side louvers on.

I flogg the absolute P.P. out of my car and I worried about it being a problem at first. It may brake tomorrow? But a year now and no issues. It is actually closer to 11lbs. When I had it done I took my HKS to my machinist and told him to cut it the same. He said he had it down to 15lbs in no tme. So even if you stopped at that. $60-$100 is still the best bang for the buck. Don't do it because I have. But.. unless you road race your car. You would be hard pressed to abuse it as much as I do.

I have heard that it will work best on dual scroll turbo's.

Your L26 flywheel will work fine. I have had several different lightweight flywheels over the years. Fidenza says theirs is best because you can get a new center part for it when it's worn out. HKS is a repackaged Nismo unit. All are lighter than stock at the sacrafice of durableity. The problem area on all the after market flywheels is the starter ring. The ring is not replacable. So... When they start to give up. And They Do! Doesn't matter how light they are. Unless you Like to push start your car. Have your stocker cut down. I have a 10lb stocker with a Nismo psi plate and ceramic 3 puck disc behind my stroked and turbod [21psi] L28et. Works great and cost me $60. My HKS lasted 2 years till the starter ate it . $450 Wasted! just my $.02

you could do that. Or you could get an Aeroquip fitting designed for it. Check out Jegs or Summit Racing.

I have All Autometer Liquid filled Pro Comp mechanical. They are nice but I have had 2 of the leak some fluid out of them. Also My Boost/Vac gauge has a screw on top to relieve internal psi, due to heat or altitude changes. Anyway. It is inacurate when it needs the psi bled off. No worries I monitor my Greddy boost controller digital display. Also had a capilary tube brake on my water gauge rendering it useless. Had to replace it. Next time. Electric Full Sweep for me.

I have a 73 driver window in my 75. tried a 78 first but just like the door latches. No go.

SWEET!!! Weather you like the look or not. A heavily cambered car is an awesome ride. The grip is amazing! The tires do wear fast, but if you drive the car as intended. Tire wear is not a factor. Not sliding off the road IS! I'll take full Grip @ 20lbs in a kiss your a** turn over white smoking the tires @10lbs any day. Camber Me. tc

I use a 2mm Cometic multilayer. this the 5th engine I have had it on. L28. That's rite. 5 different engine head combos w/ the same gasket used over and over. Very good. no worries.

Alumaloy? http://www.cisoldit4u.com/alumaloy.htm I don't know if it works. But I am curious.

The way I see it is. Rebuilding a motor or a turbo is not inexpensive. The 2 main parts that keep the turbo alive and the engine from poping are the BOV and the WG. Why skimp on these parts? It's only a couple hundred more combined, at most, for the real thing. And the piece of mind knowing that they will work correctly Every Time is worth WAyyyy more than a couple hundred. Would you buy a new Garrett GTS whatever and run a $6 flea bay manual boost controller. Hell no! Don't chance it. Get the real thing. You will not find 1 single person that has anything bad to say about the performance of their Tial BOV or WG.

there is really nothing to it. Like KTM said. Wedge the chain tensioner. Put a PAINT mark on your favorite chain link and the tooth on the cam gear that your favoirite link aligns with. Tear down! I made my own wedge from a pine 1x4. used a cheap screw in hook on top to give me something to pull on to get it out. good luck. tc

It is a 1 way check valve. Meaning that air will only flow thru it 1 way.{if it is operating correctly} Since you need vaccuum to the booster the valve needs to be installed accordingly. If you had the valve in your hand. I dare say it. Suck thru it. The side you can suck thru goes towards the engine and the side you can't goes toward the booster. The valve is usefull on turbo builds too. Keeps boost psi out of the brake booster. peace tc.

Lower the cr. Get a cometic head gasket in 2mm.

I have had it for many years. over the years I have aquired alot of cool and unique Z parts. as with many other whale tails. never seen another exactly like this 1. Closest thing is the California Z tail. try showcars fiberglass.

I like it enough to sport it.

What are the differances in replacement floor pans for the 240/260 verses the 280? The reason I ask is that I found a set of new 240/260z floor pans and frame rails, local for $150 My car's build date is 2-75. Non emision car. Even tho it is a 280z I have had to get some parts from a 240z to fix it. Like the door latches and glass, switches, etc. Later 280z would not work. The car also has the deep spare tire hole. I have read that the rear frame rails are longer on the 280. Not sure tho. I figured that I would most likely get some Bad Dog's rails or fab my own that would run full length anyway. $150 seems too cheap too pass on. But I am capable of using sheet and fabbing them myself. This seems easier. I appreciate anyones advise on this. peace tc