TONY C

Since when did I say that it was not OK for someone else to like something? I simply said that I don't. is that OK with you? jeeezzzzzzzz Ok. I didn't rob your sig. That's been an old joke for years. key word here "JOKE" look it up:razz: but seriously. I am sure that BMW doesn't call themselves "the ultimate driving machine" for nothing. and they are the pioneers of the hydrogen based powerplant. kuddos. Just not my thing. less offensive enough? OK for you tho. just had to add that so that no one thinks that I am telling them not to like it. I do know this 1 guy that I met in 3rd grade. I don't like him. so none of you guys can either or we're not friends. take it lite. peace

"New"? They're 20 years old. If you don't know what something is, how can you have an opinion? Further, this forum promotes diversity. Get used to it. ooohh. didn't mean to ruffle your feathers Ron. Not like I was taking a poke at you or anything. I just thought this was a "Z" car forum. I guess what they say is true. want to piss off a Chevy guy drive a Mustang. want to piss off a Ford guy drive a Camaro Want to piss everyone off drive a pos bimmer. newly added: Want to piss off a Bimmer guy tell him it's a POS. OH, and I can have an opinion on whatever I want as you can. So Lighten Up. IMO a Bimmer is a ___ well you know what I was going to say. I say this because I DO daily drive my s30. ha ha Seems like people here are a bit tooo tightly laced. loosen up. drink a beer.take a pill. it's just a car.

when I built my edis setup I had to have the pully you are talking about machined off so I could attach the 36-1 wheel. I thought the same as you but it was not coming off without machining. was cheap tho.

souns like an off throttle timing problem. download the Mega log viewer program and do some datalgging.

I have put several hundred thousand miles on my various "Z" cars and still drive mine every day. Fender mirrors and whale tales just don't fit these new junkers. i like to be different than everyone else and my rides are proof of that. Anyone can roll off the lot with that new e30 POS. Noone else around here has this S**T. Only my 521 gets more looks. probably because it is smaller than anything else out there. Crash protection.? If you are worried about that than you should Never drive an s30. or ride a bike, or skate board, or leave the house. I prefer to live my life. not fear it.

i have 1 that i have had on a couple engines. not lightweight but the BEST damn header made! wish mine was chrome tho.

if it truly has no wastegate that it is not a stock Z unit. are you sure that the vac pod to open and shut the wastegate is just missing. if so that you can get 1 from flea bay or maybe someone here has 1. I might have another. If you need an external wg than TIAL is the best imo and probably most others.

that honeycomb can be got from Plascore also and they will make it in any size and thickness. they also have it in plastic, paper, kevlar, stainless, and aluminum.

I do not know but if you measure everything and it is the same than it will work. flywheels are balanced so as long as they bolt on than your good. now probably you will need the cluch pack for the l6 but they might be the same too. just put them side by side and measure everything. post your findings peace

well i live in the land of cheap machine work. got mine whittled down for $60

I have a HKS 9.4lb billet steel flywheel. I have ran it on a stock na. Throttle response is amazing espacially with a 60mm throttle body. no issues of negative that I experianced When I built the motor that I have now I had a stock flywheel machined down. 15lbs was the end result. seems to work fine but not as responsive as the 9.4lb. I would have used it instead but it was in my car when the new motor went together so. If anyone is interested in the 9.4lb let me know. I will sell it to someone here for $150. it has about 500 miles on it. I have a pic of it on a digital scale. if not I will flea bay it someday

I have a full cover on mine. I used 2 full tubes of silicone and after about 6 months it started to come loose. Took me about 10 hrs to scrape/pull/remove the silicone from the dash but absolutely none of it actually stayed stuck to the cover. I want to put it back on but don't want to have to go thru this again. Has anyone used another kind of glue with good results.?

I am running a magnaflo. when I broke the new motor in on a header for about 1200 miles before bolting the turbo on. my magnaflo is mounted under the car and a 4" chrome megaphone on the rear as a tip. The car was totaly obnoxious. It was soo bad that if I reved it in the driveway the TV reception would go fuzzy. After break in and the turbo went on, the exhaust note is soo sweet. the quality on the muff is also excellent. tough enough to put it on a log truck. not as pretty as the Borla tho but who is going to see it anyway?

Well I had a chance to drive the car today. Took it to the gap. boosted 15lbs a few times. "FIXED!" car ran excellent all day not a bump or skip. on ther ride home there are a couple nice straights. flip the boost controller on high and blaze. I ran the car harder than I ever have. no problems. Thanks for passing this info along.

maybe you could mount your fan in front of the rad. that's what I did. if it is a metal cage fan try running a ground to the frame of the fan. Are you triggering the fan through MS? are you triggering the hot wire or the neg wire. you should be triggering the neg wire and have the pos wire hot all the time. Do you have the vr wires shielded all the way? I had to route mine away from everything. even with shielding. all these things fixed my fan inerferance.

Awwww!

I actually found a place to get a full gasket kit for $6. it also comes with the narp gasket

I have chasing this problem for almost 2 years. I am going to try it tomorrow and will post my findings

Awesome.. I have a nice 620 and a real nice 521. Gotta love anything Datto. Looks like you got a nice start on a great truck. I like the body color in the mags. congrats!

I agree. rebuild it. that is af the center shaft has no bad wear. I rebuilt a stock t3 that looked like that and boosted fine after rebuild. git my kit from G pop shop for like $80 shipped. and that was with an upgraded piston ring. be careful putting the new seal in. they are easy to break. G pop's # 479-751-7966 awesome people and I got my kit in 2 days and got plenty of phone advise too.

ok thanks for the converter. so I want to tune for 10lbs first. I converter 10psi to kilopascal and got 68.9475728 kilopascal. not sure how to use this number tho. Did I use the correct conversioln? please enlighten me. also. once I figure it out for say 10lbs boost. and my boost control ler will store high and low settings and I want 15lbs on high. will I have to have a completely different map settings to run 15lbs. If so then it makes that little hi lo setting not as easy to use as I wanted. thanks again.

ok I have been playing with my MSII for a while now and am satisfied with my tuning capabilities with it on my NA setup. bolt on the t3/t4 60 trim Garrett, tial wastegate and bov, extra large intercooler, and a Greddy profec b, lc-1. my question is how do I figure what kpa values to use? I am assuming they are related to the amount of boost I am running but what is that formula? thanks for any input. and yes I searched before posting but was inconclusive.

ok. so the bypass hose is needed or a 1/4" hole has to be drilled in the thermostat. What about the heater hoses? If I wanted no more heater can I simply put a plug in place of the hose connection on the head and in the lower rad hose outlet. OR. do I need to route the hose from the lower rad hose outlet to the outlet on the back of the head. simply bypassing the heater core? what is better?

the Z does have a huge opening for air to get in. The problem is nnot enough for all that air to get out. that is why the factory put the hood vents in. still a bandaid IMO. I installed 280zxt hood vents in mine. helps a little. When I am really getting on it tho I pop my hood latch. I can really notice a differance in how the can handles at speed this way and the under hood temps are greatly reduced. Water temps seem to stay a few degrees lower too. I suppose a cowl induction hood would help this too but if I wanted a Generic Motors I would get 1. Just my .02$

I have been using Rustoleum for years and I have painted 10 or so cars with inexpensive paint from the local paint stores. From experiance, Rustoleum is Much stronger than the Nasan brand or any inexpensive paint store paint. Alot less expensive too. Never painted them with a proller tho. Only thing is low color options and no metal flake. The last car I painted with Rustoleum was a 65 Plymouth Sport Fury convertable Indy Pace Car. only 33 of those made. Sold it for $30,000. If the guy that bought it would haver known it was Rustoleum he would have had a fit, he owned a paint and body shop and was very impresses with the finish. Enough to buy the car. Rustoleum= great paint PPG= Excellent paint, but better have alot of $