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This. Not to mention GT5 is about 5 years late to the party. I used to play GT1/2/3 and lost interest with 4. Forza 3 is FANTASTIC. The visual customization is the absolute best - which, especially in multiplayer, keeps the game interesting. The online racing, storefronts, photomode, etc. - all awesome. Not to mention the driving dynamics. I love the game. I'm sure GT5 will be good but not worth the wait IMO. Turn10 did it right which is why I've given them hundred of dollars since 2005 in initial game purchases and add ons.

Nice. 2005 S2000 here too. Lightly modded.

Great thread and great read! Very informative.

So whats the end result? Interested to see how it turned out!

I have thought about this swap as well since my Z has some cheapo aftermarket seats. I have an S2000 and the seats are fantastic (Recaros). Road trips, autocross, whatever. They are very supportive, well bolstered and leather (blue/red/black). Its also why thieves target them and why you'll find them on craigslist for $500. As an aftermarket 'mod' I think they're a little played out and Im tired of seeing every other EK Civic and Integra with stolen S2000 seats. Those two things considered I think I'll just end up using a quality aftermarket seat (Bride, Sparco, Recaro).

That cage is INSANE! Seriously - that sucker is hardcore. Are you going to be able to use the factory dash still? How much did it run if you don't mind? I was quoted 150/point here.

Grow a mullet?

I love this color and am going with something similar on my Z. Good choice!

From the front it doesn't look bad as others have said - then you start paying attention to the detailing and realize its just tacky. The front spoiler, the akwardly small wheel arches, random scoops everywhere... it definitely feels like an 80's race car, minus the function. Not a fan. Do not understand the bidding unless hes got somebody bidding it up.

I seriously was NOT in the market for a car - I just like to surf forums/craigslist/etc. I got lucky when I found this and I HAD to have it. I had a '71 about 6-7 years ago that had a bent frame rail and never reached its potential. When I saw how truely rust free this car was I couldn't walk away. I let a very nicely built L28ET'd 240Z pass by in late 05 out in Austin and I told myself that it wouldn't happen again. I'm lucky to have it and it WILL be built correctly and taken care of! Thanks for the advice. I think I am going to go ahead and spring for some $$ gauges right away and go from there. Party in the cockpit!

Thanks for the replies guys. The car is running very well and Im getting used to driving it. I have probably put 500 miles on it in the last couple weeks expecting something to break, but thankfully all is well! At stock boost the car feels great. Fast, predicatble, well tuned. At 10-12psi its a little edgy so I've been running it a little richer, but man it RIPS! Im ready to get the car ready for a good stock/low/high tunes. Ideally power goals are, of course, as much as I get can at the push of a button when a smug 335i or Vette driver wants to play. Seriously though, I'd like a reliable Z that I can take to autocrosses, car meets and maybe work once in a while. These cars have SO much character and potential and I want mine to be a good example to others and a pleasent ownership experience for myself. I consider this one a keeper (NO RUST, srs.) - so I plan on using GOOD high end parts over time, but want to ensure its reliable along the way. I have no problem running $1500 worth of gauges but think its silly to put that kind of money into something so trivial so early in the game. Soooo... Heat soak is definitely an issue - the same side intake/exhaust still gets me - so a turbo blanket and heat wrap for the DP is coming. Also the boost controller is acting up so a new one is on the way as well. I think a couple more immediate to dos will include a bigger intercooler and radiator (even if the IC is an Ebay cheapo). I love the look and a lot of the fins on the NPR (small) have taken a beating. A new radiator with dual fans is in order as well (the OEM looks dated and safe side cooling mods are important IMO). As for the diff - its a shame to hear that the clunk is 'normal' - I still haven't launched the car and even feel bad shifting aggressively. Makes it hard to drive the car the way it 'should be'. I have to get under it and figure out whats going on - it just doesn't feel right and I don't want to end up stranded or having to baby it everywhere. I have been ordering a lot of parts over the last week and Im relearning these cars and assembling an extgensive parts list/direction for the car. Any inputs/suggestions as to what would improve the setup (or things I may have overlooked/should look into) before dyno tuning is appreciated. Anyway, I'll be around with updates, pics, etc over time. I guess I should make this an intro thread! LOL Oh and who doesn't like pictures!?

My Z has the non-ducted airdam as well - fiberglass of course. It looks great until you actually start putting miles on - cracks, chips, etc. Wish it came in urethane as well, but I guess I'll be doing the one with ducts.

+2. Fiberglass FTL.

As an S2000 and S30 owner - I would love to drive one with the F20/22. I have to say I have never driven a car with a better transmission (its really ruined driving others for me) - its going to be great! Do you have a build thread on S2ki? I am following a Celica build there.

I'm not sure yet. Its setup nicely and pulls hard at 10-11psi but I want 300rwhp. Trying to clean it up a bit and am forming a parts/ to do list. There is a clunk from the rear end when I shift hard/quickly or let off quick - I daily a Honda S2000 so its hard to tell if something is wrong or if the driveline slack is normal.

So I just picked up BayareaZT's 240Z and was wondering what ya'll think about boost. The Profec is acting up so I am replacing it this week with a new EBC along with cleaning up some of the wiring. Here is the mod list - how much boost do you thihnk I can safely run - 15psi? Specs: • L28et, P90 Head • Stage III T3/T04B .57 trim .63 a/r turbo • SDS EM3-F • Profec B • Magnecor Spark Plug Wires • GM Alternator • 15 Circuit Painless Wiring kit w/Deutch connectors • Custom Fuel Rail w/420cc Injectors, Bosch style connectors • Stainless Steel Fuel lines • Malpassi Adjustable FPR • Walbro Fuel Pump • Scottie GNZ DP • 3" Exhaust w/Dynomaxx Muffler • NPR IC • Blitz DD BOV • 60mm Throttle Body • T5 Tranny w/Mustang Shifter • New ACT Clutch and Pressure Plate • Stainless Steel Clutch line • 3.70 LSD • RT Diff Mount • Toyota S12 4 Piston Calipers • Stainless Steel Brake Lines • ATE Super Blue Fluid • Lowered (unknown lowering springs) • Front and Rear Sway Bars Thanks