Rob240z

I have 2 transmissions I need to sell. Sold my 240z early this summer. Bought a Porsche 928 and I have a bunch of Z parts I need to put up for sale soon to make some space. One is a 240sx transmission that has been mated to a 280z front half / bell housing. Hasn't been used since the conversion was done. Bought from a member on here. It's supposed to be in good working condition. I have the early 240z driveshaft that is the correct length too. I'd sell it for $400 with driveshaft. I also have a Nissan T5 transmission with the correct driveshaft for sale too. This came out of a good running/driving 280zxt that was parted out due to rot. I know the previous owner well that parts out a lot of rotten Z's. The top cover was removed to inspect the transmission. It seems to be in good shape, but I'm not an expert. Due to this having been opened up and will need a little assembly I'd let it go for $200 with driveshaft. I'm in Jamestown, RI. Probably 5.5-6 hours from you.

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Hi cnwayland, I have a E31 that came out of my 71 240z when I did a v8 swap last year. The head is complete and still attached to the block on an engine stand. It didn't leak at all and was in a good running car, I just wanted to swap in a v8. The head, cam, valves is stock, but the previous owner said the valve seats were changed a few years before I bought the car in 1999. Engine had about 75,000 miles on before it came out. If you can't work things out with Zantech get in touch. Take care, Rob

About a year ago I was having the same problem with my car. I was able to max out the slave throw at first, but within a few days it started not wanting to fully disengage again when I was away from home. Within a few more miles it wouldn't disengage at all. After I had the car towed home I pulled the transmission and clutch. One of the springs in the clutch hub broke and came out. The spring lodged itself between the center of the flywheel and clutch. It never sounded like anything broke. There was no weird noises. I resurfaced the flywheel and put in a new clutch and it has been fine since. That was my experience, yours might or might not be the same. It could also be the clutch fork pivot. A bad throwout bearing will usually make noise when you push the clutch pedal down, but the clutch fork might have come out of it's place where connected to the throwout bearing. Once you completely rule out the hydraulics as a possible problem you need to drop the transmission and inspect everything. Good luck.

I did a very similar thing when I installed the obx in my car. This is the thread on here that describes how I got them in without taking the diff apart. I did it with the diff installed in the car. http://forums.hybridz.org/topic/114145-what-happens-if-you-dont-install-retaining-clips-for-280zxt-cv-axles/

I converted my 240z to 280zxt cv axles last winter following this write up. http://www.zhome.com/rnt/FordPower/HalfShaft.html With an R200 already in a 240z all you need is 280zxt cv axles, 280zxt companion flanges, R200 differential front pinion grease seal (75mm O.D. X 40mm I.D.), 2 - 280zx stub axle lock nuts, and 12 new nuts, bolts and washers for the half shaft to companion flange. Overall it was an easy conversion. I paid $125 for the cv axles, $80 for the companion flanges, and $12 for the stub axle nuts. I don't remember the cost of the pinion seal or hardware, but it wasn't very much. I haven't had any binding at all. Overall I think this is the cheapest way to do it. I have a mild 327 chevy making about 325 hp, torque unknown, just a fun street car. Haven't had any problems.

I still have a brand new Spec 3+ clutch I never installed sitting on a shelf in my garage. I was building a 3 liter L-engine, but swapped it for a Chevy 327 and installed that instead. I had the fidanza flywheel too, but I already sold that. If your interested PM me. Thanks, Rob

The clutch fork angle should work fine. Which T5 bell housing you are using would make a difference though. The camaro t5 bell housing mounts the transmission at an angle. The transmission won't sit level like a T10 normally would. I'm not sure if that would be a problem or not. My engine uses the old Hooker mounts. They are just like the scarab mounts. I did flip them around though which sets them back a little more than the normal scarab location. The side mount shifter on the t10 is in front of the shifter hole. I'm using a rear offset shifter (about 4") to make it come up in the correct spot.

It's bellhousing #15530202. Looks like this.

Hi Han, I have a Super T10 behind a 327 in my car with a hydraulic setup. I'm using an old truck bell housing and clutch fork, s10 blazer slave cylinder, and a 13/16" clutch master cylinder (not sure what it's from). The Super t10 has a 26 spline input shaft so I'm using the clutch kit for 88 camaro with a 305. It is a 10.4" clutch. I'm replacing the ST10 with a WC T5 this winter to gain overdrive though. Rob

That is a beautiful car. I'm sorry that I can't answer your question, but I have one too. Does anyone know what side mirrors those are on the green car? Thanks, Rob

I like the look of nascar style wheels on classic cars too. Here's a picture of a really cool s30 with rims like that. I'm not sure what brand they are though. sstp-1304-01+shokuji-jtin-car-show+datsun-240z by Rob Olejniczak, on Flickr

Most won't, but I thought somebody here might be interested in this. It is a Kameari R200 3.154 Ring & Pinion Set. It is for sale on a Yahoo Japan auction. It has a buy it now of about $1000. These are pretty rare. I was thinking of buying one, but went with a 5-speed transmission instead. http://page23.auctions.yahoo.co.jp/jp/auction/o8814403 Rob

As long you pick the right cam to take advantage of it the yes. Your putting a head on that flows more, but not doing what is needed to allow it to. Raising your rpm to 8000 would take advantage of it. Or an offset ground crank would too. Both would be even better. For example, Let's say the head flows 15% better than stock. You should try to get 15% more air through it. Choice 1: increase rpm from 7000 to 8050. 7000x1.15=8050 Choice 2: increase displacement from 2.8L to 3.22L 2.8x1.15=3.22 Any combination of the 2 or many other things can effect it too. That is the very simplified explanation. Most would prefer the stroker for a torque friendly street car would be my guess. I personally like the way a high rpm L-engine sounds and drives. But the more reserved side of me might go stroker if I had to choose 1 or the other. 7500rpm 3.0L sounds just perfect though.

Everything Dave is saying makes perfect sense. For a naturally aspirated engine, increasing displacement and/or rpms will need a head that flows more air to take advantage of that. Making your head flow more than you need isn't necessary. It will probably have some positive effect, but not nearly as much as also increasing displacement and rpms. I decided on max rpms of 7000 for my build, but In my case I wanted the increase in head flow so I could decrease the boost pressure relative to flow. Forcing more air through it would be easier. For the headwork your getting, and staying NA, I would rev the engine higher and/or increase displacement. Otherwise it would be a lot of money spent for the head with not much gain. The head will be so much more capable than what you are trying to flow through it.