dhartig

It just makes it. I had to "crush" my air filter about 1/16 and make sure it has a flat nut on top.

Fuel + spark + timing = running engine. You have spark, how it smooth it runs tells you timing. Clean your injectors and check your fuel pump pressure. Carb conversion will need different fuel pump and is a long process. Start with the easy stuff. BTW, the period (.) can be your friend.

Please keep us informed as I think many people would be interested in these if they work well.

I agree it sounds like a vacuum leak. There may also be an issue in the fuel delivery. Do you have a good pressure gauge you can put into the fuel line to check this? If you see pressure issue check the fuel filter (if you have one), and you might want to pull apart the fuel pump to see if there is anything caught inside it.

Normal compression numbers should be in the range of 135 -160 psi. Just make sure the readings are close on all cylinders. Check the state of the plugs too as that will tell a story. Also look for evidence of oil leaks. If you are going to seriously play with the engine in the future I would suggest you consider a/m ECU now. There is plenty of info in the MS section that will keep you going.

Cooler intake air = greater density = more power + less chance of detonation. If your intercooler gives a good temperature then all is fine. Some of us run old Turbo Tom systems which is draw thru carb setup. No intercooler allowed as fuel might pool in it. Meth injection provides alternate cooling method. High CR engines also like water injection. www.rbracing-rsr.com/waterinjection.html

On my '72 I have taken the oil pan out and replaced it. No problems doint that with the engine in except some of the bolts are a PITA.

Good to hear your car is getting back into action. Time can easily slip by. I started the install of the Turbo Tom kit on my '72 a two Xmas ago with the plan of getting it running by spring. Here it is a year later and its now just down off the stands. Its that stupid "working for a living" thing that gets in the way. Time spent with your kids though is always well invested.

At the $200 - $250 I would be interested in 0.6 mm and 1.25 mm or something similar, for 89 mm bores. It would be interesting to see prices for water jet cut copper gaskets on volume buys vs Cometic.

I have driven SU's and the Holley 390. I thought both were about the same performance if properly tuned. Here is the old thread. http://forums.hybridz.org/index.php/topic/27905-4-barrel-intake-the-facts/

I'm off to China in a couple of days. From what they told me on previous trips they don't really have "rules of the road", there more like "guidelines". Great expressways. It would be fantasitic to run 250+ kph in the countryside. It might be a little hairy when you come up behind the old blue trucks doing 40 kph, but that is why they have such nice wide shoulders. Lots of driving styles there. Had a minivan driver once who would get it up to about 160 kph, then shift into neutral and coast back down to 50 to improve his gas mileage.

My fuel pump is switch operated which acts kind of like a theft deterrent. Thankfully I haven't had to test out its effectiveness. Use rubber grommets to offset and dampen the noise transmission.

Sorry but $3,000 is probably not going to get you a 3.1 liter engine unless you have great connections and access to a good machine shop. And the 3.1 will be tempermental unless done properly. The good news is there is a ton of good info here on getting 300 Hp out of modifying the standard 2.8 liter. Start searching and see how others have gotten there. I would also suggest checking if your suspension and brakes are 300 Hp rated. Here's a good link to various engine builds. http://www.ozdat.com/ozdatonline/enginedesign/

You might consider watching sales of Z's to get an idea of current value. Check Ebay for a week and you will have a pretty good idea of current avg prices by model and condition. $5k should buy a nice Z, and $10 a great one. Awesome = $$$. Just about anything on a Z is fixable, but some are too far gone because of rust and make better parts cars than restoration projects. If you let people know what your plans are for the car (reliable DD, high performance street, track, etc.) they will probably jump in.

IMHO most people like intercoolers because they are a KISS system, bolt it on and forget about it as you adjust your EBC. To be optimized meth injection requires progressive control , and a fail safe to drop boost if flow is interupted. But a meth system would seem to be more in line with the goal of having a well breathing engine.

It looks like a great project car, and as with most projects it will come down to time/money/skill as to how well it will come out at the end. Since all three of those are usually not in good supply when you are a student be prepared for some frustrations over the course of the project. In any event you will uncover just about everything any other car will throw at you, and there is a great amount of material on various websites to add to what you will be learning in school. The only caution I would raise is to give the car a really good once over after you have it stripped. If it is too good or too bad you may not want to use it as a learning project. Some review on the internet will help you make the decision, and posting more pictures here will give you good feedback. Some typical areas to address are frame rails and floor pans. Search out pricing for parts and develop a plan for replacing those areas if needed, and I suspect they will be. If you can undertake those repairs you probably have a workable project car. Good luck

It is always fun to compare: http://www.ozdat.com/ozdatonline/enginedesign/

I picked up a Hong Kong catch can off Ebay and will put it in with the same routing. BTW I was impressed with the product and delivery. Good quality polished aluminum finish with all barbs and hoses plus attachment fittings for less than $45. Probably half of that went for the air freight costs.

The stock 240Z engine was the L24. There is lots of info on this site about dropping in an L28 When you say "rust free" be sure to search thru these forums to make sure you check all the common problem areas for rust. Then as Zmanco said compare your goals for the car against your skill set and pocket book. It sounds like with either car you are planning to do some modifications so you are probably not looking for a DD at this time. Consider some of the Z's you have seen and decide what you want in the long run. Usually with these cars it becomes a journey: Enjoy the Ride.

Red is 12V power and black neg. Looking at the back of the controller they go into the left hand recepticle with red to left, black to right. White and green are signal. White matches to black wire coming off the valve and green to the pink one. At the back of controller they go into the right hand recepticle which has the vertical split in it. White to left, green to right.

If it only happens at WOT it might be fuel starvation. It sounds like your boost pressure is holding steady and you have pressure checked all the components. I might start looking other places for the fall off in power.

Good to see another TT system being resurected. I had been looking at mine for the past several years and decided its time to put it back into service. I have the manifolds installed and am just bolting in the turbo assembly. The plan is to upgrade to EBT and progressive meth injection. Then use EGT's and a wideband sensor to tune the kit. The progressive injection system has a datalogger option that should help. http://s264.photobucket.com/albums/ii196/dhartig/?action=view&current=DSCN2884.jpg It is going onto the L24 currently in the car, just in case something blows up. Meanwhile the L28 I have will be modified to 2.95 liter with an 8.5 CR. Once all is good the plan is to switch engines. Good luck with the install.

Check Nigel's recent post in the Turbo / Supercharger forum. http://forums.hybridz.org/index.php?/topic/83320-a-cheap-ebc-that-works-a-full-review-of-the-hdi-sbc-d-se/

Check out Project Car Magazine. They perform this swap in their fall issues with exact steps and pictures.