AtlantaZ

I'll be running ~300hp/300ft-lbs at the wheels, and I'm concerned that the 240sx auto tranny won't hold up. Maybe the Z32TT auto tranny (RE4R03A)? (---Deleted to save myself from the Tool Shed!---)

It can't be that easy... What is the secret $500 part that I'm not thinking of?

Would that be the RE4R01A variant of the 240sx tranny? The same model used in the Z32 N/A 300zx?

Good to know! Have a good recommendation for a paddle shift kit for it? Or better yet - a source with a KA auto/shifter package?

Along the same lines... I wonder how hard it would be to mate an L460e to the L28? My goal being to build a manumatic/tiptronic (I know, groan, boo, etc...) that me AND my wife can enjoy. The more she enjoys the car, the more likely I am to secure funds for future upgrades without bringing down her wrath

Just a heads up on this kit... it does NOT come with the four intake manifold bolts for a fuel injected intake. I called the vendor and was told that those bolts are not part of the standard kit. I ended up buying these: http://www.jegs.com/i/ARP/070/773-1004/10002/-1?CT=999

Awesome!! I have a .dwg that I can send you later today. Do you think you can mill out the 'Z' too?

I found a waterjet cutter in the area who can fab my flanges - problem is that waterjet-cut metal has sharp edges!. I'm hoping to find a CNC milling shop that can cut flanges with smoother edges, plus do the 'Z' engraving. How about a powdercoated black flange with a bare aluminum 'Z' and a ring around it?

I'm shopping for metal fabricators today (I need to have a wastegate flange mounted to my turbo exhaust manifold), so I'll let you guys know what I discover!

No worries, Paul! Now I'm on a quest to find us some fancy billet engraved dizzy hole covers.

For those who have deleted the distributor on an L-series engine - what did you use to cover the gaping hole? I thought it would be nice to find/fabricate a metal plate to cover the hole, perhaps with an engraved stylized 'Z'. Anyone seen this?

Timing chain guides are in place! Found some bolts that seem to match the pitch and length for the chain tensioner, except they're about 2-3mm too long. So I'm taking these to the hardware store tomorrow to pick up replacements. Thank you Ace Hardware! I also ordered and received my brass freeze plug set from Napa Auto - Sealed Power brand, $18.50 with shipping. These are slowly making their way onto the block as I get time. I fear that I may be running out of things to do without a massive influx of cash... Donations are always appreciated. Or you could buy my R200 differential with turbo driveshaft and half shafts!

Head gasket and cylinder head are now in place!! I hung the timing chain on the new cam and crank sprockets, and I'm almost ready to install my new timing chain guides and tensioner. Trouble is... I don't know what length the guide/tensioner bolts are. Anybody know? I can find torque values in the FSM, but not bolt sizes...

Yep, it is a 1983 L28ET. I found a blurb about no springs on my hydraulic lifters. Anyone need a set of p90 clips and springs?? :-/ PM me on your total cost on your suspension setup. Those are exactly the mods that I want to install!

Ok, I got the retaining springs (the "mousetrap springs" from above) and clips from Capitol City Nissan ($38.00, free shipping). I got the clips on after some effort, but the retaining springs are very, very loose. Is it possible that I got the wrong springs, or did the P90A head not use retaining springs on the rocker arms? Anyone?

Thanks, looking forward to sharing. What are you doing suspension-wise? I was planning on doing a brake upgrade, Tokico HP shocks and lowering springs, and a rear sway bar.

My project: turn a 1976 280z into a 280z turbo, powered by Megasquirt, 440cc injectors, and an intercooled T3/T04E turbo. Target horsepower is 300hp to the rear wheels. Nothing too wild, but enough to make me go zoom when I want/need to. I'll also complete a T5 tranny swap to match. About six months ago, my wife let me buy my first ever project car: a well cared for 1976 Datsun 280Z. This was a California car that migrated to Charlotte, North Carolina in 1999, and its previous owner sold it to me in April of this year. The interior was pristine, the engine was rock solid, but I felt like it didn't ... move ... like it looked like it should. Here it is, the car that my kids affectionately call "dad's cool red car": The stock engine is in good shape and will make a great addition to some future owner's NA engine collection: Step 1: Acquire a 1983 L28ET engine I found my base longblock in a local Craigslist ad. Got a nearly complete engine (minus distributor) plus a new engine stand for $300. Step 2: Send block + head in for machine work I had the block shot-peened (sandblasted with BB's) and honed, the head got a 3-angle valve job, and all surfaces were milled. New valve stem seals were installed. Bad news was, I found out that the shop wanted an extra $500 to reassemble the engine. So I picked it up as-is, which meant that the valve train was still partially disassembled: Better yet, none of the rocker arms/lash pads were marked or organized, and he failed to give me back the "mousetrap" springs and their clips (hold the rocker arms to the pivots when the rockers are not under load from the cam). Ordered a new set from Capitol City Nissan for $38. Step 3: Reassemble shortblock Block is clean and on the stand. Installed new Hastings ductile iron rings (high quality replacement rings for turbo application) and new Sealed Power main/rod bearings. ARP rod bolts hold the piston rods in place, but I reused the stock crank cap bolts. So far so good: UNTIL I decide to double-check the main bearings for cleanliness and found some grit on the cap-side main bearing, along the centerline groove: So now I have to pull the crank back off and doublecheck all the other bearings, just to make sure that dirt isn't sneaking in somewhere. Not sure how this happened, my garage is clean and I keep the block covered! I have a new Melling (M152) oil pump, a Beck-Arnley timing kit (from Japan!), and a water pump waiting to be bolted on, as well as ARP main studs. The plastic bag in the top of the photo is full of stainless steel bolts from MMS & Accessories: But obviously I can't move forward until the cylinder head is ready. Still waiting on those springs... In the meantime, I'm starting to strip down the valve cover and clean up some of the brackets and pulleys that I'll be reusing. Some of these parts will also get powdercoated (intake manifold, valve cover). I've discovered a great non-corrosive, non-toxic rust remover that doesn't damage "healthy" metal. It's called Evapo-Rust: I've already put some small parts and bolts through this stuff, and it works great! To demonstrate its effectiveness for the reader, I have taken a "before" picture of the main crank pulley: I'll take another "after" picture when it's done (24 hours later). Here's my high-tech parts soaker: I hope to finish this by May of 2011. As I work, I am slowly researching and acquiring the miscellaneous parts I'll eventually need: - Garrett T3/T04E 50-trim stage III, .63AR housing turbo (or Turbonetics, if I can find a 5-bolt downpipe that will fit; was hoping to use the MSA downpipe) - cxRacing same-side intercooler - O-ring billet "Pallnet" style fuel rail (bought it off eBay today!) - Recirculating blowoff valve (BOV) and external wastegate - recommendations appreciated here! Hoping to eventually use an electronic boost controller - MSD 2225, Walboro 255, or Bosch 044 fuel pump - want one good to 400hp - any recommendations on the best bang for buck here? - Gear reduction starter and upgraded alternator - 440cc injectors - Rising rate fuel pressure regulator (not sure if I really need one for my application?) - Clutch kit and short throw shifter for the T5 tranny - Aluminum driveshaft with Spicer u-joints, custom length for the swap of course... - Megasquirt kit from DIYAutotune - AFR, exhaust gas, and manifold (boost) pressure gauges/sensors If any reader has any of the above parts in new or gently used condition, please feel free to PM me. And please weigh in with your (informed) .02 on my build plans! Finally, I will also be having my downpipe, (stock) exhaust manifold, and turbine housing ceramic coated. Looking for that clean, subtle look in the engine bay, like KTM's beautiful 240z: http://album.hybridz.org/data/500/EngineMSA2.jpg Thanks for reading!

Yes, anti-seize is critical with these bolts. I called MMS and verified that these are 304 grade stainless, tensile strength 110,000 PSI.

Speaking of bolts, does anyone know of a good source for chrome valve cover bolts?

I agree, it saves me a lot of trouble trying to figure out which bolt goes where. If you do order from them, tell them that Nathan in Buford recommended them!

Pop quiz: which bolts are the new ones, and which ones are the old ones? (Coke Zero sold separately) Here it is... $100 worth of stainless hex-head fasteners in 20 little baggies with labels! (My original post and the photo above referenced 14 bags, but I had set aside six additional bags for today's project). I'll be using some of these tomorrow when I bolt on the oil pump and timing cover, so I'll let you guys know if there are any problems with fitment. The good news with stainless steel bolts is that they are much more corrosion resistant (due to rusting or thermal fluctuation) than standard non-stainless steel. There are several good articles on the benefits of stainless vs. non-stainless, and the wikipedia article is actually pretty good too: http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Stainless_steel

If you can wait until Monday, I'll take pictures and let you know exactly what the kit looks like. If the quality of their product is as high as I think it will be, we might see about adding them to one of the "parts sources" stickies.

Shopping for a gently used Pallnet / JSK style fuel rail for my turbo S30 project. If it comes with good condition 440cc injectors, all the better! Looking to do cash or trade - I have a 280ZXT R200 diff + half shafts, a lightened flex disc, a turbo ECU, an AFM, and a couple other odds and ends.

I found another source for the 280Z/ZX stainless steel bolt kits. The bolts were selected based on inputs from a Z-car specialist who sent them boxes of parts and helped them tweak the length and pitch of the bolts. And just like the Z-Car Creations kits, these folks bag and label the bolts by component/area. Both stainless and polished bolts are available (sorry, no chrome). Here's the site: http://mmsacc-stainless.com/html/Datsun.htm Engine bolt kit (I just ordered one): $115 + shipping John and Nancy are very helpful, and I'm sure you'll enjoy working with them as much as I did. And no, I don't have any affiliation with these guys.

+10 for posting your lessons learned! I'm scouring posts exactly like this one for potential issues when I finish my L28ET rebuild in the spring. Thanks for the tip!!