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naviathan

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Everything posted by naviathan

  1. naviathan
    That wouldn't be the temp sensor if it made your cold start valve run all the time. That would be the thermotime switch.
  2. naviathan
    You really don't want to try and fix it? How much do you want for it?
  3. naviathan
    Could be poor spark. That can be from either bad plugs, wires, failing igniter, bad coil, etc...
  4. naviathan
    Yes that's it. It could very easily be a bad connection or a short in the wires. Jiggle the connector and wire around and see if the idle changes.
  5. naviathan
    Ummm, sounds like multiple problems. Have you checked the connections to make sure they're good and clean? The digi dashes have always had lighting issues. I tried one and it gave me a headache, but that's besides the point. The single wire on the thermostat housing gives a signal to the gauge only. There's a cylinder head temp sensor that feeds the ecu which is probably where your problem is coming from.
  6. naviathan
    You'd tune it using the AFM and reading the O2 with a wide band sniffer kinda like reading a carbed engine. No software for the ECU.
  7. naviathan
    Oh I'd get it working. I build the MS ECUs for fun.
  8. naviathan
    Ok new instructions, disconnect ECU, pack into box with sufficient padding, mail it to me. Or, read instructions: http://megasquirt.info
  9. naviathan
    send the old ecu to me if you don't want it. I'll pay for shipping..
  10. naviathan
    Doesn't matter, you can still get a general idea of your afr from it.
  11. naviathan
    ok well couldn't hurt.
  12. naviathan
    Thanks for the help!
  13. naviathan
    Yes I would recommend using an oil/additive high in zinc for the l28. As for the initial start instructions, I've never heard of anyone doing that, but I'm not a cam manufacturer.
  14. naviathan
    Got it, work around the guides.
  15. naviathan
    What do you use to drive them out with and is it something I can do at home (decent garage, not a machine shop)?
  16. naviathan
    Sweet, so just be careful not to nick the seats and I should be fine. What about the guides? I see most of your port work has the guides removed (or cut completely down flush?), so should I have the guides pressed out, or just leave them in and work around them? What would you recommend? You are one of the resident experts here and I'll take you word as gospel.
  17. naviathan
    Ummm, sounds like cheap tools to me. I've got some battery powered dewalt and makita tools that are just as powerful as the plug in and air operated stuff. Those cost a pretty penny though.
  18. naviathan
    Battery operated tools are wonderful.
  19. naviathan
    As the title says, is safe to do some mild port work on my N42 head with the seats and guides still in? Any advice to get the most for my time spent without going overboard?
  20. naviathan
    Ok so much for the frame rails. Does anyone know where I can get frame rails for a 2+2. I had a miscommunication with Zed Findings, he meant he doesn't make rails for a 2+2. HELP!
  21. naviathan
    Sounds like you're running rich. Don't you have an O2?
  22. naviathan
    According to your msq you're listing the ecu type as microsquirt, that probably needs to be changed to MS-II. Also the Accell Enrichments are high. You're showing a max enrichment of 15ms. Remember these values are plus whatever pulse width is already there, so by blipping the throttle you're going from 2-4ms +15ms or 17-19ms pulse widths which would be off the map.
  23. naviathan
    Look elsewhere. I bought a V07 crank from him while I was in Iraq the first time. Got back and found he had shipped me a standard l28 crank with the part numbers worn off. He said he had only one crank he thought was a V07 and that if it wasn't then someone else sold him a bad crank and there was nothing he could do about.
  24. naviathan
    You need to eliminate the stock pump altogether. It's pointless to have that in place with the MSD. And your Megasquirt is connected to the system how?
  25. naviathan
    The only time I see your pulse width going high is when you make sudden throttle changes. It appears you're blipping the throttle occasionally and the pw jumps to 18-20 which is very high. I'll stand with the assumption that you have your injectors firing once per cycle instead of twice. Post up your msq and we can take a look at that.
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