naviathan

Haha...Edumacation Rulz!

Sounds like good numbers. Figure out where the oil is going, but with that compression I doubt it's the rings. Might be valve seals or a leaky gasket.

Usually what your gauge reads isn't very accurate. The sending units tend to go bad and start sending low/fluctuating signals. My 81ZX sits at50/60 at idle and jumps as high as 80/90 when moving.

If your system is properly sealed it should receive the same flow before the IC as it would after. It's like a garden hose. You get the same amount of water at the end as you do from the spiget. The IC is only meant to cool the air which doesn't make it flow any faster it just makes it more dense which the AFM wouldn't be able to decern anyhow. I would honestly recommend getting MS&S and getting rid of your AFM all together in leu of a MAP sensor. Then there's nothing in your air flow path to worry about.

Crank shafts can be straightened by a machine shop and it should be checked anyway. Follow the How to rebuild book and you won't be disappointed. Do it right the first time otherwise that bolt COULD break and you'd end up doing it all over again or buying a new motor. Good luck with it!

Awesome run. I love to see a well built Z walk all over a Camaro. It was a good car at one time. Now it's just for posers who don't want a Honda.

With an N42 head you'll need a heck of a dish in your piston to get down to 8.5:1. Using the KA24 pistons with the 2mm HKS gasket and a 1mm flycut you'r still at 9.24:1. You would definately have to go cutom and shorten them slightly from the L24 rods to get the numbers you're looking at.

Search here and on zcar.com in the 70-83 forum. There's lots of info about this between the two.

No the Maxima's had a variation of the L24 for a short time.

Use a N42 block. The walls are slightly thicker and it's the same block the pros use to build strokers.

Ok I have so far purchased the following and I'm looking for any other ideas anyone might have. TEC3 Distributorless Engine Management Tripple Side Draft Throttle Body Fuel Injection Intake 45mm Throttle Bodies for Intake 550cc Injectors Bosch Fuel Pump Custom Fuel Rail Rail End FPR (The above is part of a kit from Top-End Performance) Stainless Steel Intake and Exhaust Valves 4 Core Aluminum Radiator Adjustable Cam Sprocket Sectional Aluminum Oil Pan (Above from ArizonaZCar.com) ARP Main Studs Stainless Steel Engine Bolt Set LD28 Crank L24 Rods KA24E Pistons (Flat Top) (Above from EBay) ARP 8mm Rod Bolts 2.0mm Metal Head Gasket Stage II Cam (Grind: 17033. Lift(In/Ex): .480/.480. Duration(In/Ex): 274/274) Rocker Arm Kit Performance Valve Spring Kit .160" Lash Pad Kit (Matches Cam) MSA Aerospace Coated 3 into 2 Header (Above from ZCarParts.com) I have body and suspension parts as well, but I'm looking at getting the motor right first. Anyone have any suggestions, ideas, experiences to relay? This is the first time I've rebuilt an engine, much less built a performance engine. I'm planning to have the head ported (N42), intake and exhaust and having the crank balanced. The car is going to be driven on the road, hence the 2mm head gasket so I can still run pump fuel.

I'm not sure if they're still up, but there were some ARP Main Stud kits on EBay for about $90.