naviathan

I have a friend that works for the Ford Dealership who does my inspections. Trust me if he could pass it he would.

Checked with the dealership already, no TSBs for the related systems and all the sites online for TSBs and Recall info want money.

My wife's 2004 Suzuki Forenza refuses to pass emissions. I bought the car at auction for $5500. It's runs great, the only thing I had to do was fix a vacuum leak around the EGR and all the codes in the computer cleared. The only thing holding it back now is the drive cycle on the EVAP and CAT systems. They're both showing a Not Ready status, no matter how long I drive the car, no matter what I do to the car it will not clear the Not ready code on the EVAP or CAT. I know we have some pretty top notch auto techs here so I was hoping someone would have some insight on this problem. I've got about 200 miles on the car since the last time I pulled the battery connection and when I called the dealer their tech said that it needed to be driven more. How far do I have to drive this thing before it clears the codes!?!?!?!?! Please tell me there's a trick to this thing that no one seems to understand here.

Got a card and the dinner bill...Go figure.

Judging by the orientation of the cap clips it appears the dist is cranked fully counter-clockwise. Try adjusting it to the midway point of the timing adjustment slot and see where it goes from there.

I wish I had PRINT SCREEN option for my head. I could post all kinds of wiring and vacuum diagrams.

I donate and I'm still getting the error..Occasionally...Maybe I didn't donate enough....

Wow...I bet he's super proud of that beast.

It's probably from condensation build up in the block. When the car is running the water evaporates and gets sucked into the PCV system where it mixes with the oil residue and makes that milky oil.

Interesting, I understand the performance possibilities here, but what about fuel economy? Run the smaller plate for average driving, then when you want to open it up have the second plate snap in.

You guys are hilarious. I'm sorry I missed this post for so long.

Wow...Even if I had a junk 300ZX I would not give it to him.

Yeah the ECUs on the ZXTs are completely different. They don't even use the same connector as the NA ECU. The connector to the head temp sensor is on a pig tail connected to the main harness through the same bullet style connectors as everything else. You may want to check those out and make sure they're clean and you're getting good continuity through it.

Ok now that's a bit of an extenuating circumstance. An early 79 has quite a bit of things different from even an 80 model when it comes to the electronics and EFI.

Jerry sells awesome products and he has a website and forum of his own for Z performance, http://www.zraceproducts.com. Check it out.

OH, it's a ZXT! Well, that changes everything. Temp sensor is still the cylinder head temp sensor between the #5 and 6 cylinders on the spark plug side of the engine. There is no cold start valve or thermotime sensor. A rich problem on a ZXT is more than likely leaky injectors, bad head temp sensor, stuck fuel pressure regulator or maladjusted AFM. The ECCS ECUs used in the turbos are much smarter than the non ECCS ones in the NA models. Your O2 is probably bad, but that shouldn't cause your car to run as rich as it is.

Anything can be, you are right. Have you tried unplugging the thermotime and the cold start valve? Have you pull the cold start valve and pressurized the system to see if it's leaking? There's a lot of tests that are still left to be done so you don't waste money.

Why do you doubt me? Tell you what, I'll put my 10 years of ZX experience that the temp and the thermotime switch are two different sensors, one operating the temp gauge and the other the cold start valve. The ECU receives it's temp signal from the cylinder head temp sensor on the passengers side of the engine. The only way this is not true is if you aren't driving a ZX. The Z (S30) uses a two wire temp sender in the thermostat housing for the ECU temp and a single wire for the gauge.

Fat chicks are like skateboards and scooters, they're fun to ride, but you don't tell your friends about it.

I just blew out my system with a dry air compressor and added the R134a oil and freon and went with it. Works great.

Ummm, well it did from the factory, can't speak for now.

Fight and get both your car and your money back. The law is taken too far sometimes and this I think is one of those situations. If it's being towed for being a non-op vehicle then nobody in California ever has a car break down apparently. I gather from the story the car was parked in front of your domicile (whether that is an apartment complex or otherwise I don't know) which should have told the officer after running the plates that vehicle was parked at residence and not abandoned. Anyone with half a brain (long shot for most cops) would have known the car was being worked on and if they weren't sure could have easily left a warning. Being a prick doesn't come with the badge. Fight it, lodge a complaint with department and get a lawyer. Good luck.

I have a vacuum line diagram in my head. Just replace one piece at a time so you don't miss something.

Friend of mine is considering a Honda Bandit 250 for the mileage to and from work. It's not as embarrassing as a scooter and it still gets good city mileage.

Pete only recently started selling the larger bores and many engines have been built and run with the 6N so I think you should be fine with that.