naviathan

18-22 PSI at idle. Not sure what that is in Hg

Arizona Zcar has come nice SS valves.

Clean it, clean it, clean it. Make sure all the holes line up on the new gasket as well. The scoring on the number two piston is a little odd. Looks like something fell in the cylinder and sat there for a while to do that. Otherwise, if you clean it up and make sure the oil passages are clear it should be fine.

Could be a bad temp sending unit as well. I would change the Thermostat first to be sure. Cheap easy fix if it works, if not, you don't have to worry about it later.

Easiest thing to do would be to remove the cover from your old TPS and the new one and compare the connections so you know what to hook up where.

Serpentine Belt Pulleys by Z Race Products Very nice.

I had a 280ZX that would read little to no oil pressure all the time. Nothing wrong with it, just a bad sending unit.

I have purged and MR2...Never ever ever again. That is the most rediculous system ever.

Oil pressure problem could just be the sending unit. As for the temp thing, 3/4 is too hot. Have you checked the coolant to make sure it's full? Is there plenty in the overflow reservoir? Have you tried flushing the system to make sure it doesn't have an air pocket somewhere?

The shots you took already were good angles, we just need something higher quality. Although one of the ends of the cam does have a letter stamped into it, if you could find that we could identify the cam. Someone doing performance work to it would either have an aftermarket cam, with no stamp, or a 260 cam, with an "E" stamp I think. I'll double check the letter. EDIT: My mistake, the 260 cam is stamped "C"

I'm stumped, clearer pics please.

The reason I say the deck has been dropped is because it looks like the edge is really close to the ID Stamps. This is a race prepped N42, see how close the stamps are on it to the deck? Looks about the same as yours. The only way to tell for sure is to find out the original cubic centimeters of the chambers and measure the current cc's of your head. The Z calc in the downloads should tell you what the N42 cc should be. I was mistaken on the Maxima head, it's an N47 variant. I couldn't say for sure if the intake valves are larger, they just look that way.

It has definetely had the deck dropped quite a bit and the intake valves look as though they've been enlarged, but the exhaust hasn't been touched in the chamber. The exhaust ports however are very odd. The only possible reasoning behind that setup I can think of would be an increase in low end torque. Could that be a Maxima N42?

The 81, earlier models didn't have autotemp control, just the ZX.

Summer is over and I'm finally working on my A/C, makes a lot of sense...Anyhow: First off, I have the autotemp system and I know how horrible it is. Fortunately everything works on mine except the power servo. I spent several hours last night going over the system. There's a few things I don't understand. The power servo isn't getting vacuum so I started tracing the lines around using the FSM. What is the purpose of the lock valve? It has a vacuum input, but it doesn't allow any kind of vacuum through? After the lock valve there's a line that runs to the bypass vacuum selector. This component has three lines on it. One that runs to the power servo, one from the branch off the vacuum tank and the last one from the lock valve. Everything is in place and seems to be working, but I'm still not getting any vacuum to the power servo. Has anyone had any experience with this type of problem?

First, get a grommet for that new hole in the firewall. Second, unless you have a bowl float problem or a leaky fuel line, you won't get fumes from the engine compartment. I would think your fumes are coming from the sealed port on top of the tank under the rear carpet or from a broken/torn filler neck. Replace the seal around the tank port in the rear and check your filler neck really well. If you want to do it right, drop the tank and check everything really well to make sure it's clean and sealed, including the lines.

Sounds like someone glanced through the post about "Name This Engine" and though they would try to find one. Not likely and if you do: 1. Good luck getting the funds 2. Good luck finding the parts to rebuild it.

Expensive though. I have a coil pack setup for my project Z and the added crank trigger and coil packs were quite a bit of extra money. It is better though, especially with aftermarket engine management. I'm going with Electromotive TEC3 though. I'll try MS on my daily driver when I start work on it.

I noticed we never see the drivers side of this car. Where was the damage?

Yes, change the Dizzy out for a ZX one. Otherwise the engine seems right, I agree put it in suspension. Make that ride match the performance.

Now that's sweet. Nice clean Z with attitude.

Just for FYI if anyone is interested. This site has some nice pulleys and such. It's a serpentine belt setup and I know I've seen people request info on such a setup. Just figured it went with the original topic.

EFI makes both ponies and mileage. A properly tuned EFI system can get great gas mileage and still out perform a carb. It's not all about dumping fuel into the cylinders. It's about dumping the proper measurements of fuel, properly atomized with the correct amount of air for the cleanest combustion. Granted though, the stock EFI on a Z isn't all that adjustable or accurate, but it's worked for 205,000 miles on my 81ZX. She just pulled past a convoy this morning @ 100mph without even twitching. Old, but it works.

Yeah, Yasin, that's a nice clean wipe pattern. Dead center and wipes the whole pad. Looks great.

If nothing else, just buy the parts off eBay. V07 crank, KA24 pistons, 9mm l24 rods (8mm will work too). The bearings I believe are the same size as the L28 bearings. Everything I believe is the same except the bore and stroke of course.