naviathan

Those results are all over the place. Are you sure you did the test right? You're suppose to test with the engine warm, all plugs out, throttle plate open and turn the engine over for 5 seconds on each cylinder.

The EFI is very basic in these. You can swap ECUs around if you want to so long as they're the same type. The pump comes on when the engine is turned over and when the AFM flap is pulled open by the suction from the throttle body. You won't here it when the key is turned to on. The cold start valve does not interupt the pump, it's a fuel injector for starting so it needs the pump. Z's don't have Air injector valves, but there is the BCDD (Boost Controlled Deceleration Device) which creates a vacuum leak to adjust idle controll when cold and when decelerating.

One thing I don't like about the PCV system is that they always seem to allow a little crud or oil into the intake. I like the catch can then to intake for vacuum idea. That might help keep the nasty crap out of the intake and still vacuum the crankcase. Just clean up that catch can when you do an oil change and you should have a happy engine.

No clue. I've never read anything on that swap. If you really want to get some performance out of your upgrades either do a z31 MAF conversion or do mega squirt. The turbo AFM and 240SX throttle body swap don't do anything except make the throttle responce snappier. No HP gains.

http://www.atlanticz.ca/zclub/techtips/afm/sizeupgrade/index.html

Ah...a secret project starts its life....

No it's a common misconception, you lose compression during the valve overlap which loses some of that extra air/fuel charge it's pulling in. Really you just flow better so it's easier for the cylinder to pull that air/fuel in, not pull in more. Less power lost in pulling it in brings more power by lack of strain.

I'm not sure about the relay board but yes you can use the stock NA harness with MS to go turbo. The Realy board would probably make it easier, but with a good wiring diagram you can probably splice into the stock relays and such just as easily.

It's a result of valve overlap. The bigger the cam the greater the length of time for valve overlap as it goes between the exhaust and intake stroke.

How did you limit the front end travel? Spring clamps?

I sent an email off to find out. I'll let you know when I get it back.

Is it just me or is this "upgrade" just not worth it if the wipers don't return to the "home" position on their own?

I'm not sure where that information came from, but I've never seen a different F54 block. It wouldn't make sense for Nissan to create two different casts for the same block just to drop one in a turbo model and one in a NA. It's not financially sound much less wise for stocking. How would they know what block on the shelf is NA and which one is turbo without cutting the block in half to see the webbing? However using the same block and changing the piston and head would make sense.

BTW there's places to get a degree wheel online really cheap and Harbor Freight has several nice micrometers cheap. I'm planning on getting mine there when I do the timing on my engine.

No kits, but several people have fabricated a supercharger to mount up to the L28. Best way to bring out all the potential is to spend a lot of money. Not peanuts here, more like $10-15k. How fast can you afford?

Not sure if this will help much, but give it a go...

By the looks of what you're telling me and the diagram, what you have listed as white/black should be green. You want the fusible link hot feeds going to the hot switch side of the relay. The grounds look right. The way this should work is, when the ignition is turned on it should supply current to the solenoid side of the EFI relay which will pull the switch closed and supply power to the ECU. When the ECU gets that power it should supply power to the pump relay solenoid side which closes the switch and supplies power to the pump. Without knowing exactly which color wires connects to what component it's hard to say exactly whether the colors are accurate. I'll check the FSM and see what I can find for wire color codings and which one exactly goes where. Wouldn't want to supply power to the side of the ECU that should be outputting it.

Doesn't piston slap occur if one of the pistons was put in backwards? I remember something from TonyD on this subject, but I can't find the post.

The markings on the block make no difference. The only way to tell if it's NA or Turbo on the block is to pull the head and check the pistons. Dished=turbo flat top=NA. It has a P90 head so chances are it's a Turbo as the NA had a P79.

"Break In" is a controversial subject in the auto world. I've actually read studies where following proper break in caused premature wear after the break in period because things settled differently when "real" driving took place. Other studies show you should break the engine in the way you're going to drive it so that everything wears in to your driving habits. I'm no expert on it, but I hope to be soon enough. Moving on to my real intent for this post. Cam timing isn't that difficult to understand. Obviously as the cam turns it opens and closes the valves. The cam timing ensures the cam begins opening, is fully open and closes the associated valve at the proper moment in the stroke. As the piston falls on the intake stroke the cam lobe controlling the intake valve opens drawing in air and fuel. As the piston reaches BDC (Bottom Dead Center) the valve should already be on the closed side of the lobe so that as the piston rises on it's next stroke, it builds compression. The spark plug fires before the piston reaches TDC (Top Dead Center) because the fuel takes time to ignite and burn to create the pressure for the power stroke. At this point both valve are closed and the pressure forces the piston down. As the piston reaches BDC again the exhaust valve starts to open and comes fully open as the piston rises to TDC. Now here we have what is called "Valve Overlap". Depending on the size of the cam as the exhaust valve closes the intake valve starts to open leaving a period where both valves are open. The larger the cam the longer the valve overlap time is. Hence the reason larger cams give lower compression numbers. And of course once at TDC we start the whole process over again. This is the best explanation I can give off the top of my head. It's really simple if you can look at it one step at a time and understand each step before backing up and seeing the whole picture.

Goto a hardware store with a good inventory of bolts and washers. Should be something there to work.

Are you sure you're getting spark and fuel? How did you check? Your injectors could not be firing. Check the connection to the fusible links. Don't forget the one on the positive battery cable for the injection system. Check everything for corrosion. It will run again, the problem is how much you're willing to spend. Restorations are like performance. "How restored do you want to spend" and "How fast do you want to spend"? These cars are very tempermental when it comes to electrical connections. Invest in a lot of contact cleaner and small wire brushes.

Just as a side note, that acrylic spray paint job looks like a$$ and will probably burn off if you ever start it.

Not a word from anyone?

My BCDD starting acting up so as per many suggestions on most of the forums I disconnected it. Now my idles fine when it warm, but when it's cold the idle is so low it bounces. I've checked the AAR, thermotime and cold start valve and everything seems to be functioning well. Could this be a result of the BCDD? I've never heard of anyone being affected by this. Usually they disconnect it and go. Any ideas?