mom'sZ

nobody?

Man... there is a ton of information about clutches on this forum. Here's a thread from a couple weeks ago started by PrOxLaMuS© http://forums.hybridz.org/showthread.php?t=103804&highlight=ACT+CLUTCH He starts out wanting to buy the Act 6 puck, some people advise against it for street driving, others seem to think it works fine, he ends up going with the ACT heavy duty pressure plate and ACT full faced, sprung, organic disc and loves it And here are a couple from October and November 2004. The first thread is called 'name your clutch' started by evildky and it's a two pager. Jon expresses his concerns with sprung puck clutches in this thread. http://forums.hybridz.org/showthread.php?t=96418&highlight=ACT+CLUTCH The second one was started by john kosmatka and concerns turbo power levels. http://forums.hybridz.org/showthread.php?t=95805&highlight=ACT+CLUTCH Bastaad525 sings the praises of his Daikin in both threads. Lots of good links and advise.

So... JohnC It's your opinion that the factory pressure plate with a 4 puck, non-sprung type clutch disk like the NISMO unit you called out would be the best choice to reduce rotating mass (thank you PeterZ) and still provide the clamping force nessasary for a wheel2wheel car w/ the stated HP levels? Considering your background in drivetrains Jon, I appreciate your input. thanks to Ed260Z for the link to spec http://www.specclutch.com/ and 510six for the link to 10krpm http://www.10000rpm.com/ neither have much specific information on the web, I'll give a call. Jon, for spec stage 1.. 2.. 3 whatever.... or just call em and tell em the nismo race clutch equivalent?

There are two stickies on top of this forum called 'what are brake options for s30' and 'calling all racers for strut advice' or something. The brake options one pretty much runs down all the different brake options and the calling all racers one runs down all the strut options. They have part numbers and lots of great advice. I think JohnC of Beta Motorsports makes complete strut packages as well. Good luck!!!

Does anyone know where to get the PCV hose, the one that runs from the bottom of the intake manifold to the crankcase. I was just going to get some crankcase vent hose from a local supplier but it is a kind of unique piece of hose because it is larger diameter on one end. My car is a 78 280Z

Thanks Jon, I figured that out after I posted (sorry)

John: I tried to order this set up from courtesy nissan. They didn't have the 99996-E3040 race disc. Any other suggestions on where to get one? or a different disc? Also, what is a throw out bearing sleeve? Do I need one of these also and will a stock throw out bearing suffice?

Well... I figured my opinion would ruffle a few feathers. I was just concerned that some people might not be aware of what bad stuff car paint is. Read the label, then make your own decision.

One side on mine was completely seized. This caused the suspension to not properly move through it's travel. The result was the back end of the car 'steering' around when you went over bumps, a very freaky feeling.

Mike: thanks for replying. I went to your web site and clicked the contact us link and sent all my personal contact info. Hoping to hear from you soon.

yeah, I think at this point you have no other alternative but to cut the pin. Use a hack saw slid down into the crack between the LCA and the strut. Cut through each side then an air hammer will knock out what's left.

I'm no engineer or a suspension expert but I thought I would relate some personal experience. I installed new strut inserts and ground control coil overs some months ago. My spring rates are slightly higher (225f & 250r I think, can't remember off hand). From my personal experience at low speeds (below 30 MPH) the ride is a little rough. Above thirty it become smoother. I think the reason for this is as follows. These are light cars. Spring rates in this range are kind of heavy for such a light weight car. I feel that below 30 MPH the forces on the suspension are not enough to deflect the suspension, in effect the suspension is solid. At those lower speeds you feel everything. Like another user in the forum said, you can even feel the painted stripes on the road. I like it, but this is subjective. What I feel is a 'sporty' ride, you may feel is harsh. Just a thought.

just want to point out... automotive paint is poison. extremly bad stuff... read the label if you don't believe me. The overspray dust, when it dries, is poison. If you get it on your clothes, on your shoes, you will trek it around. I would never attempt to spray the stuff in a garage attached to my house. Or any other structure were people live. Automotive primer that has hardener is just as bad. The fire department will have a sh*t fit if they catch you. Also please note what this guy says about using a sealed spark proof fan.

Richard: for OEM nissan part I like courtesy nissan in texas. You can call them on the phone or order online (i've always called but might be impractical from down under) They ship the stuff out fast. http://www.courtesyparts.com/

tony: on car adjustment of suspension geometry. Stock 1st gen Zcar, toe adjustment only. So there is one benefit. Also, I would guess they are more rigid and possibly stronger then stock but just guessing. This is not an endorsement, I've never seen them, just an observation.

Well I ordered this part manual on CD from classiczcars.com at the time this thread was posted. (about three weeks ago) The money was taken out of my account about two weeks ago. Still no CD. Anybody else order one of these things lately? Is it normal to take this long to get here or should I try to contact them?

I'm going to take a wack at this and say maybe it is a hosed strut insert. I had a bad strut insert on one side in the back and when I hit a bump on that side it would go ba da da da. (hard to describe in writing) If I recall correctly, scallopping or cupping on the edge of the tire is an indication of a bad damper.

Dude... how you gonna work the clutch pedal? maybe you could sell your liver instead

Mike: I don't like to disagree with anyone but there is no doubt that these chassis are flexy. All unibodies of that era are pretty poor. Tire technology wasn't where it is today. The manufacturers didn't really try to create rigid unibody chassis until much later. It just wasn't important to your average consumer.

Forrest, thanks for posting the pics. I'm getting ready to replace my original radiator and want to use an aftermarket one

yeah and ed260z, that could be the normal fatigue on a thirty year old unibody, collision damage or simply factory assembly slop. I don't know about Zcars directly, but many domestic unibodies of that era had tolerances of between a quarter and a half inch. I was installing rear subframes in a muscle car years ago and in the process of squaring the chassis, found the factory front frame rails to be a quarter inch out.

I am not going to make any comment on this on going debate as to the strength of the Zcar unibody. There are folks in this forum, in this thread, that know far more then me about such things. I would however like to make a comment about 2fiddyz's advise about looking for a clean car to start with as quoted above. This is very good advise. As a bodyman for twenty five years that specialized in restoration and panel replacement, I had a ton of people bring me cars that were so rusty, it would have taken huge amounts of work to repair them. Over and again I would give people this same advise. Find a clean one to start with. For what it would cost to properly repair a really rusty example, you could find a clean one, fly to where it is, and drive it home and be way ahead of the game. Florida however is not a good place to look. Because we are a pennisula surrounded on three sides with an ocean, a salt water ocean, there is constant salt air. Cars from the northeast that are driven on salted roads rust from the bottom up. Cars that come from florida rust all over. Out west where the roads are not salted are the best place to look.

yeah yeah, I know. I quit smoking a little over a year ago at 178 lbs. I was up to 230 and have actually lost about fifteen lbs. in the past two months, it finally seems to be coming back off. Thanks for the tips Keith, I go to that forum daily. I've gleaned many bits of wisdom reading your old posts. Your results in the class speak for themselves and I take every word as gospel. I'm gathering the bits and the new rules have given great hope that the playing field has been leveled a little. But I've got a steep learning curve ahead of me. I've never road raced a car, I've road raced motorcycles and I'm hoping there are some skills that will cross over, but we'll see. I'd like to thank all the members of this forum for all the advice and help they all supply. This forum is a gold mine of information.

Mike: I read about your seat purchase in your other thread. The Kirkey sounds like a good deal and I don't need it right this moment. If you don't mind me asking such a personal question, your weight and height please. If this was covered in the other thread I apologize.

Hoorrrrayyyyyy the mighty Zcar rise again!!!!! Celebrations still occuring in the mom's quarters And the ZX and 300 also recieved last christmas presents and also should have a brighter outlook in the class. There was talk of the zcar's days in IT being numbered. Now the talk is of certain Zcars returning from retirement. Like you say John, now the question is getting it legally down to it's weight, I'm no lightweight ... 215 lbs. Help comes from the new nascar door bar rule allowing door gutting on both sides.