mom'sZ

I removed the crank spacer for the auto. Actually the pilot bearing will not install if you don't remove the spacer first. And I installed a new pilot bushing. I remember reading a thread about the sleeve thickness a while back. That's what I think is wrong. The fork and throw out bearing sleeve are from this tranny. I will read the threads you linked... thanks

I converted an automatic to 5 speed in my 77 280Z. Clutch master and slave are brand new. New stock clutch, pressure plate and throw out bearing were installed. The car will go into gear, but when you let out the clutch, you hear a rubbing noise, a light tinny Bbbbrrrrrrrrrr. And the car will not pull it's own weight. It moves a little but is slipping real bad. What did I do wrong?

primer&rust: you know that book was sitting no more then 5 feet from me when I read your post. It says 'the early model Nissan gear reduction starter has a two piece nose housing. This allows the adaptation of the starter by fabricating a nose housing that matches that of the starter it replaces.' That's what I was talking about. I'm sure I read it somewhere on the internet, you can take one of those starters from summit or jegs and stick the nose housing on it from the early model L-6 gear reduction starter.

Yeah I know, they make em for all different domestic V-8s. But I thought it was based on the stock (hitachi?) ZX gear reduction starter for it's light weight and torque. I think you have to swap the nose off an L-6 starter. I swear I read it somewhere, maybe I'm losin' it

It seems to be hit or miss, year-wise, as far as which have them or not. I know one from a different year will work. The question is has anybody used one like http://store.summitracing.com/largeimage.asp?part=TIL-54-10001

I thought I read here or somewhere that L-6 gear redution starters were the design that everyone uses for race motors (SBC & BBC) and are available from summit or jegs. Mine didn't come with one, but from searching here I've deduced that they came in later ZXs and it will swap right into my 77 280Z. Anyone with knowledge on this?

sorry Paul, didn't mean to give you a full body chill... I ordered my 'core' plugs from Rock auto yesterday. Used the online interface and it worked real well and I got a ship notification from fed-ex a few hours later. Had to buy bags of ten of each size but at .40 cents a piece, no big deal. When we were kids (a long time ago) we used the brass ones. But awhile back I read some reason why they weren't so good, to soft I think, can't remember. But whatever it was, it was good enough to make me use the steel ones. I've seen where guys pin the brass ones in. I do like Paul says and smear a little silli on the back of em' before I put them in. Rock has a kit with brass ones... 12 bucks I think.

here's a link to a thread that JaysZ gives a source for freeze plugs http://forums.hybridz.org/showthread.php?t=112724&highlight=freeze+plugs and here's a link to them http://www.rockauto.com/catalog/x,ca...IengineID,2789

aluminum lug nuts???? never seen them before. anyhow, at least something is available I really don't want to change the studs but would perfer steel lug nuts anybody?

I bought some diamond racing wheels stock car wheels. here is a thread where the wheels are discussed ect. http://forums.hybridz.org/showthread.php?t=107889&highlight=diamond+racing+wheels the wheels are nice, and they were cheap but they are made for a lug nut with a 45 degree taper. Every other lug nut known to man has a 60 degree taper. I can find lug nuts with a 45 degree taper in 1/2", 7/16" but not in 12mm x 1.25mm. I don't want to change my studs as these are just practice wheels and I will be using a different wheel later. Does anybody know where to find lug nuts with a 45 degree taper in 12mm x 1.25mm?

Search... there is a thread about the boosters and how to get a kit and do it youself if you don't want to spring for a new one, with pictures and everything.

many calipers have only one piston. When you step on the brakes, the one piston pushes it's pad against the disc, and then the caliper slids over on a shouldered bolt or something until the other pad is against the disc. It sounds like your calipers were frozen up and not slidding, so only the pad that had the piston behind it was rubbing.

I'm with 280Zone, try turning the wheel a little

Thanks JohnC, I believe you just answered my question

Jon, I value your opinion greatly, and if you say not to use it, I would take that as gospel. But just out of curiosity... why not? compressability? (softer pedal)? Anyhow, super blue it is. ATE is the manufacturer? Any online source? You know, guys at the local part stores are morons, and if you can't find it on the shelf they stare at you like you have three heads, so for me a lot of times it's easier to order stuff online and I'm going to need a lot. I forsee many fluid changes in my future. I'll google

In the process of preparing a road racing car (78 280Z for SCCA ITS) I had planned on using the DOT5 silicone based brake fluid for higher boiling point. I was going to replace the entire system with new components including new master, calipers, rear cylinders, hard lines and S/S flex lines, so compatibilty with the old fluid would not be an issue. After reading this thread and also the thread linked in Jon's Post #2, I'm not so sure it's a good idea. I was under the impression (probably incorrectly) that the DOT5 was superior for track use. Would anybody like to comment on what they think is best?

OK, the first thing you need to do is remove the striker. That's the thing in the door jam the latch catches on. Adjust the door without the latch. Once the door fits the hole well then replace the striker and work on getting it to latch correctly. Hanging doors is no easy choir. As you adjust, bear in mind the door will sag a little, so bolt it up a little high. The bolts holding the hinges to the door are used to fit the door in and out at the top and bottom, the bolts holding the hinges to the door pillar are for adjusting the door in the hole up and down, front to back. Make the door fit the quarter panel and roof first. You may have to readjust your fender to match the door after you're done getting it to fit the quarter and roof. If you loosen the fender at the rear it will allow easier access to the bolts. Once the door closes PERFECTLY then reinstall the striker loosely, close the door almost completly, peer thru the crack and see that the stricker is level with the latch, then tighten it. Also, when you are working on the hinges, crank them completly tight on each try, don't try to leave them a little loose as tightening them changes how the door hangs. Good luck and if you think this is hard, imagine trying to do it when the cars has been mutilated in an accident.

Jon is right, retard the cam for more top end power, advance the cam for more low end grunt. Maybe his seat of the pants butt dyno needs recalibrated (kidding) Generally speaking, if retarding the cam does give more top end, that is a sign the motor is under cammed.

when Katman wrote that it was true, the rule allowing any size tubing for non-mandatory bars is new, this year I think

the car is being prepared for SCCA improved touring. The standard wiring harness may be repaired using standard industry practices but may not be modified. It isn't a huge issue for most competitors as most the cars are newer. The rule is made to limit performance. The ECU on the other hand may be replaced as long as the new one fits inside the original case. The reason for this is because people were reflashing the stock ECU and there was no way to easily check for modifications. The general consensus was that if it couldn't be policed, then let them all have it. It's kind of crazy but welcome to the world of SCCA IT. Sometimes the rules don't make a boatload of sense.

In ITS, the brakes have always been considered the weak link for Zcars. Frequent replacement of major components are the rule. Multiple brake ducts are nessasary, not practical on a street car, but a prerequisite on a track bound stock braked Zcar. Also, adjusting and using the rears to their max potential helps. Hopefully a certain championship winning crew chief will chime in with more direct experience. good information on the shims, thanks zcarnut!

Well.... I can think of one good reason I would want to use the original harness, it's required by the rules in the class I want to run. But I remember another thread where the poster wanted to just be able to plug a mega squirt in place of the stock ECU.

very cool.... so you used the original 1977 280Z fuel injection harness? Did you use a tps from another model / year car? So the only other things connected are the vacumn hose for the map sensor and a wire for tach signal? Did you get the connector off an old ECU? nice work!

I got mine from shox.com... I think about 130$ a piece

I got mine from shox.com... I think about 130$ a piece