mom'sZ

First, Z-ya, thanks for replying This is debatable, the rules in IT are in many ways very ambiguous and I think eliminating the AFM might be possible depending on your interpretation of them. Obviously there would be great advantage to doing so. The AFM, if retained, must be unmolested and functional. That is a big no-no. Must use all stock sensors including the stock tps. I know that's a bummer because stock 280z tps is more like a four position switch. But I think that could be worked around Exactly... you would not believe the controversy and debate this rule has generated. That is assumed to be the exact intent of the rule There is also huge debate concerning the stock wiring harness rule as well. You are allowed to 'repair' the stock harness though and this to I believe could be made to workThanks for your thoughts

I am working on my cooling system and had a mishap which has caused an unusual problem. The car got hot and after adding water was run breifly without the radiator cap. (I know... dumb) The radiator is not stock and the cap is located on the left side. Hot water and steam dosed the left side of the engine and the car began to stumble badly. When I stopped, the car would idle, but would not rev. I managed to limp home but the car would not get above 30 mph. After sitting eight hours, it ran much better but still something is wrong. It will almost run normal at small throttle openings but if you punch the throttle it feels like some cylinders are cutting out. I assumed something got wet and tried displacing the water with WD40. The air flow meter was directly in the path of the water so I removed it and cleaned it and it's connector. Didn't help. The injectors and their connectors are new and so is the water temp sensor. I also removed the distributor cap and inspected using electronics cleaner spray to clean everything. Still no joy. Everything on the engine is on this side (ignition, fuel injection, coil, wiring ect) and it could be anything. I suppose the engine could have been hurt from getting hot as well, but it really didn't get that hot and no water from the exhaust or any outward signs of this. The fact that it improved after sitting for 8 hours makes this (engine damage) less possible in my mind. Any help with suggestions or similar experiences would help. thanks Andy

I believe this task is responsible for a number of new expletives being invented. The smilie with the guy banging his head against the wall is the perfect graphical representation of doing this job. We all feel your pain, but at least you only have to do it once. (unless you buy another zcar) The new pins are available from any Nissan dealer. Do it

I would like to know if any of you have tried running MegaSquirt with the original equipment sensors and stock wiring harness from a fuel injected 280Z L28. I am preparing a 1978 280z for competition in SCCA's improved touring class. I am allowed to use any engine management electronics that will physically fit inside the original box. It also must connect only to the original harness with only the original connector. Does anyone know off hand the dimensions of the megasquirt box? I thought I found those dimensions on the MegaSquirt web site once but couldn't find them today. The original box is quite large and I'm sure I can physically make it fit. During practice and testing another harness with O2 sensor and whatever other modern sensors and data acquisiton could be used to develop fuel maps and then for the actual races the original harness and stock sensors used. Anyone's opinion or advise who is familiar with the system would be appreciated.

that is pretty funny. There was a stupidest thing you ever did while racing thread over on improved touring dot com and it was hillarious

It can also be used to monitor fuel milage. When it reads 18-22 your getting 20 -30 mpg and when it's reading 0.. er... well... your getting 2 - 3 mpg

OK... I'll try to help you guys out best I can. I painted cars for 25 years and I can tell you that very often people bring you stuff that is damn near impossible to paint. Try to paint a motorcycle frame without leaving a bare spot. At my last painting job, a Chrysler dealership, they had a problem with the door handles chipping on the back side. How do you paint the backside of the door handles? So.... hood hinges, take em off the car. Degrease em by washing in solvent with a parts brush. Take a maroon scotch-brite pad and a water hose and scuff the whole thing best you can. The scotch-brite pad will conform to the shape better then anything else. Hang them from a coat hanger in the position they'll be when the hood is open (same with the door hinges) and spray. Sorry, no trade secret way to do it, just do the best you can.

Scottie: Are they located near you in Orlando or where in FL?

I've bottle bled before, it is the pressure bleeding I was interested in Pop. Just figured it would force the air out quicker when you completely drain the system. It just seems to me that when you bleed the regular way, with helper, bottle or speed bleeders (never used em) that it takes forever to work all the air out.

Nissan calls the rear lower control arm a transverse link. And I believe they call the spindle pin a transverse link pin. But anyhow the number on the package for mine was 55540-N3701 and is also marked RR, I assume for right rear although both came in the package. I can't recall for sure but I think they were 14 or 16 bucks a piece, plus the nuts, which were 1.50 or so. I reused my washers. Got em from the local Nissan dealer, took 3 or 4 days.

Brilliant!!!!!!! you mean like a bug sprayer or something like that from home depot or lowes right? I think I have one out in the shed. Thanks ezzzzzzz

I had to go back to the beginning of the thread to check and make sure... sure enough, that's what I thought, the master cylinder was only two months old. So... another case of a 'brand new' rebuilt master being junk. I swear there was another thread just like this a month or so back, same deal, rebuilt master, drove the guy nuts, bled the thing twenty times, replaced other stuff, checked the disc thingy, finally replaced the 'new' master... and that was it!!! I replaced my master when I first got my car with a rebuild from the local discount auto parts place and it seems to work OK. Saved the original one, plan to get a factory rebuild kit for it. If I'm not mistaken, Courtesy still sells OEM new masters. Got a clutch master from them a while back, nice... not NOS but new!! Has the cup and cap and is complete unlike the discount auto ones that are just the cylinder themselves.

How about Carroll Smith's tune to win, engineered to win and drive to win series? These books cause you to think about car prep in a whole new way, excellent!!

Z-TARD: I worked in paint and body shops for 25 years. The stuff your looking at on ebay, I believe, is straight enamel. It is not to far from what a house painter would put on doors jams and base boards in your house. It does dry slow, but there are drying agents that can be added to make it dry faster. You have to be careful in hot weather or it will dry to fast. In the old days I think it was called chinese drier or something. Anyhow, I'm sure the paint supply house would have something that would make the stuff dry quick enough. For your purposes it would probably work well enough. The main problem with straight enamels is they chaulk out after 2 or 3 years unless you keep the car waxed. (or covered or in a garage) The cross linker (hardener) helps with that. The thing I like about rustoleum (at least in the puff cans) is that it has something in it to help it stick to bare metal. I don't like to stick anything back on the car without a coat of paint on it. (helps me keep track of what I've already replaced) And when you aren't priming and prepping stuff real well, rustoleum will stick and look relatively good. Lacquer used to be the paint to use. You spray it on, it dries almost instantly to the touch, you can sand a bug or whatever out five minutes after you spray it on and put another coat on. But lacquer is a petroleum product, like gasoline, and just like gas... the quality has turned to crap and the price has skyrocketed. It also needs to be buffed out after it's done. I've used the Nason enamel, Sherwin Williams and some others, it's all pretty good for what it is. I think it would look better then rustoleum cut with mineral spirits or whatever. Go talk to the guys at your local paint supply house. Tell them what you want to do and your experience level. They will have something comparable to the raychem at about the same price. Metallicar: I think your paint job looks great. Next time you buff, put some masking tape over the edges when you buff to keep from cutting through. Waxing by hand will help eliminate the swirls over time.

Here it is, here it is It's a thread started by Jonas240z where he is wanting to buid a 240 mph Zcar. Corzette post #81 (last page) and others as well. http://forums.hybridz.org/showthread.php?t=87322&highlight=aerodynamic

You know it might be, I was looking and found a bunch of really good threads with tons of info on aerodynamics but didn't find that one specifically in the five or ten minutes I spent looking. (boy it's easy to get side tracked using that search function) I remember it was pages and pages long and I think it was from a long time ago. There is a post, toward the end of the thread, where someone describes each 'station' of the car. 'station' being sections of the car, and how each body area and feature (windsheild, trim pieces ect.) reacted and helped or hurt. It was technical but super informative. Also... wanted to mention that as I recall, the Gnose thing really did help the aero a lot. You had asked about that. I have no direct knowledge of this but I do recall it dropped the Cd number a good bit.

There is no doubt that the first gen Zcar is bad aerodynamically. I can't remember the coefficeint (sp) of drag but it's bad even compared to other cars of the same era. It seems the Z is blunt in all the wrong places (front) and smooth in all the wrong places (back). Somewhere on this site is an old thread where somebody (engineer) explains it in extreme detail. (old thread, 2001 I think) The explanation is based on actual wind tunnel testing. I will try to find it later when I'm at work and post a link. I know the headlight covers, the clear ones that cover the ice cream scoop front headlight buckets help a lot. An air dam to stop air from passing under the front of the car helps with the lift issue.

nope: sorry to ask dumb a$$ question but... what kind of wheels are those? cool....

OK.... everybody back to you corners retract those claws

OK... I tried to be as accurate as possible, but I'd say within +/- .10 I measured with an old analog dial cailper and the springs seemed to have a pretty healthy coat of (factory) paint. O.D. 4.410 inches I.D. 3.48 inches spring thickness was about .470 Hope that helps and you can call me Andy

Silent I have a set of stock 78 springs at home. If you want me to measure em, I can do it when I get home tonight.

I remember that thread also I searched and found it' date=' here it is http://forums.hybridz.org/showthread.php?t=107535&highlight=LCA Dave from Portland mentions in post #15 that the later LCAs are heavier but still interchangable and two posts later JAMIE T from Richmond swears it's so. Others seem unsure.

david: I don't know first hand but it is my understanding that swapping a chevy small block for the inline six only changes the weight by 75 pounds or so. (maybe 125, I don't remember) So... a lot of the information concerning coil-over suspensions on this web site is relevent to your application. Sectioning the struts is only nessasary if you want to lower the car an extreme amount. It gains back suspension travel lost when the car is lowered.

As an alternative to buying patch panels made for a Zcar, they also sell universal door bottom sections. Depending on what part of the door is rotted, these might work. Go to you local automotive paint supply house and ask.

For anyone who reads this thread, I did recieve my CD on Feb 16. After I sent Mike an e-mail, he contacted me immediatly and got the CD in the mail. Thanks Mike