mom'sZ

Man that is slick.... very cool. Is it a kit? I'm a terrible solderer .. er I can weld up the crack of your you know what, but I can't solder to save my self. very cool indeed though, thanks for the link.

I thought of water temp sensor as soon as I saw that picture of the plug as well Paul (great info on telling which wire is which btw). SuperPickle: if you didn't mix up the two connections for the thermotime and water temp sensor and the connectors look OK, I'd bet money it's the water temp sensor gone bad. (and I'm not a betting man) They're cheap. I think the last one I got was 12 bucks and change.

OK, please help us with the symptoms again. It's hard to start, hesitates when you accelerate both cold and warm and back fires sometimes correct? You say it burns oil, why does it smoke? What color smoke, could it be running rich? Pull a plug, tell us what the plug looks like. Will the engine rev up above 2 or 3 grand? If your broke you can't go throwing parts at it. Check for vacumn leaks very carefully. Check every vacumn line on the motor. Check the boot between the air flow meter and the throttle body very carefully. Spread the pleats and look for cracks, it will be easier if you remove it. If you find any, tape them up as a temporary fix. Tell us what you find.

Oliver: is your car a 240? Because the above poster's signature says 77 and I think pusher's car is a 280 as well. Reason being that I have a 280 and I removed the rack and replaced it no problem, just came right out. (although the sway bar might have been removed at the time) But I've heard of guys having to lift the engine and other stuff as well. I think it might be more difficult in a 240z.

geordieggg: actually that sounds pretty cool! Do you have a link to it on the net where I can check it out or any other information?

The AFM provides the ECU with a voltage signal. Battery voltage (12 volts) is supplied to terminals 9 & 6. (the terminals are numbered on the connector on the AFM) 9 is positive, 6 is negative. Terminals 8 & 7 are the output to the ECU. The signal is 5 volt to 0 volts. 8 is the positive voltage signal and 7 is the reference ground. (negative) With the AFM fully closed (engine not running) the voltage to ECU is 5 volts. As the AFM opens, signal voltage drops to 0 volts fully open. What I've found on the one I've tested is that the signal varied (almost linear) between 5 volts and one volt from fully closed to half open. Then from half open to fully open it varied (almost linear) between 1 volt and 0 volts. I don't know if this is how it is supposed to work, but my car runs well, as I've only tested this one. (my car is 77 280) I have another out in the garage to test and see if it works the same, but haven't gotten to it. Has anyone else gotten similar results? I currently am logging it's output on the car with my innovate DL-32. This is probably more information then anybody cared to know,but I figured I'd share. To the original poster, z-ya's idea about using a resistor between the coolant sensor and the ECU would do what you are trying to accomplish and would cost a lot less (a LOT!) If you use a potentiometer like alexideways suggests, it could be infinitly adjustable and if you use a long enough pair of wires, adjustable in real time as you drive. Blue from the Atlantic Z car club has an excellent write up with pictures on how to do it. I will try to find a link and post back. OK here is a link to the article (hope he doesn't mind) http://atlanticz.ca/zclub/techtips/tempsensorpot/index.html'>http://atlanticz.ca/zclub/techtips/tempsensorpot/index.html Here's a link to the EFI page second link from the bottom on this page is a link to the EFI bible (a must have for every 280z owner) http://atlanticz.ca/zclub/techtips/EFI&fuel.htm'>http://atlanticz.ca/zclub/techtips/EFI&fuel.htm And here is a link to all the tech tips http://atlanticz.ca/zclub/techtips/ Thanks blue if you ever read this (he's a z car dot com guy) You are the GREATEST!!!

Here are a couple of ideas. It sounds like there is a bad connection somewhere. This is a thirty year old car and they are notorious for crusty connections. I also noticed you mentioned that the battery was new, then you stated (I think) less then 1 year old. Well, some cheap batteries only last a year. Honestly, my car used to do the same exact thing you are describing. The battery was about a year and a half old at the time, but it was a cheapy two year battery. I found if I turned the key off and on again once or twice (basically try again) it would start. But I replaced the cheapy battery with an Optima red top and replaced the cables at the same time (during an major maintainence session including engine pull, tranny swap) and never had the same problem again. A lot of times a battery will hold full voltage until it's under a load. The only way to truely test them is with a load tester or specific gravity tester (three bucks at Autozone) I'm not suggesting you buy a new battery, but you may want to have it tested. (just because a part was recently purchased doesn't mean it's good) First double check any connections. Buy a can of electric contact cleaner. dissconnect all your connectors and look at them. If they look at all crusty, give them a little scrub with a small wire brush or whatever and a blast of contact cleaner. Double check the battery cables, clean the terminals, clean the ground connections to the block and firewall. Keep looking, it's there, good luck, you'll get it!

I'm not really sure the troubleshooting forum is the correct place for this post. I also noticed this is aladavlis's first post, so I'm not sure he/she will even be back to read this answer. But since I'm an IT guy, I'll answer the thread and it may help others. You have a virus. Most probably your browser has been hijacked by some spyware. The above two replies would cure your problem, but for many folks switching to firefox may be over their heads technically or just not convenient. THe fact of the matter is firefox has less problems because it is less popular and thus most hackers write trashware for the most popular browser. As soon as firefox became more popular... guess what. Microsoft has really worked hard to harden there operating system (windows) and there browser (IE). Most people have a little common sense now when it comes to downloading and email. So the worse your average malicious code can do is bugger up your browser settings. Try logging on as another user. Create another user account if you have to. (control panel/user accounts) Then copy your favorites and documents to the new account and delete the old one. Voila... virus gone! This works better then most antivirus / spyware programs because a lot of this code is legitimate code being used in illegitimate manner so it isn't even picked up by antivirus software.

I'm with Mark on this one, cheap should not be criterion for suspension parts.

You've got an air leak somewhere, I'd bet money on it just from your description. Look at all the stuff naviathan mentioned in his post. Especially check the boot between the AFM and throttle body. Take it and spread the pleats open, looking between them for cracks in the rubber. Air leak on this system cause a high idle. Check all your vacuum hoses, replace, vacuum hose is cheap, unless they are brand new. For this system to run right it has to be air tight. When you first fire it up, and the engine is cold, pinch off the line running to the air regulator. It's the big one (like 1/2") on top of the intake manifold. When you pinch it off, the idle should drop lower. Download and read the EFI bible. It's the factory manual for this system. Search EFI bible or bible on this site and you will find a link. It explains how the system works in very simple terms and how to diagnois it. The crankcase is vented to the intake, so the pvc lines, the oil cap, the dip stick... everything has to be air tight. The air regulator may be gummed up with carbon, take apart and clean if above test doesn't show results. Tell us what happens and we'll try to make more suggestions. It's a good system, you'll like it once you get it running well, don't give up on it. good luck!

bjhines: my understanding was that the 6 point leg straps mount to the same area as the lap harness. I've read a bunch of the material linked in this thread and a bunch over at corner carvers too but still am not completely clear on how I'm going to mount it. My harness came with zero documentation.

Jeff: to what are you planning on mounting the crotch strap to? Weld in a plate to bottom of floor board? seat mount? just wondering

Ohhh.. ok, I got some junk to. like a set of front lower control arms a guy on zcar dot com sold me with the inner bushings remove hack saw style and one damn near cut right through the bushing surface. He insists it's 'usable'... not on my car

hey OTM... is the point of this thread to help folks sell some of there miscellaneous stuff or just bragging rights? If it's the former, I think Paul's got us all beat. Hey I got an automatic for a L-28 outta mom's car. And a partially dissasembled ZX 5 speed. Just scored a 78 parts car (suppose to run actually) Wickedwild: tell us about the wheels on the orange car (both kinds) what brand offset size ect. oinojo: how much for the spacers? PM me. See my signature folks... really need fuel injection harnesses, come on mega squirt installers, give em up, make some dough!

Thanks Jeff, what did you get 4, 5, 6, or 7 point? I got the 6 point. Tried to order the sub strap but the guy said it was totally unnessasary with the 6 point. May still order it later once I get to installing this stuff, still waiting on my seat. (FIA approved MOMO start)

I just got some of the FIA approved padding from the source linked in Justin's post. (thanks Justin!) This stuff is not exactly what you might think of as padding. It's pretty hard! It's also quite stiff. Might not bend around tight curves. In an accident I'm sure it would hurt less the an unpadded bar but smacking an elbow against it in the tight quarters of a caged Z would probably smart. Not cheap either

I got my harness a couple days ago. It says roll bar mount on the box. Here's a picture of the end of one of the shoulder harnesses I'm guesing that you remove the snap ring on the end and just use the three bar adjuster to wrap it around the roll bar cross brace? Can anyone confirm? Also I got some FIA roll cage padding (very expensive) and man that stuff is hard as a rock. I mean you can barely push your finger into it. I suppose it would hurt less then smacking your head on the roll cage. It's very stiff as well, it will be tough to bend onto curves.

I recently purchased a innovate DL-32 and LC-1 wide band sensor. The DL-32 is installed in the car and works great. I've been reluctant to install the wide band because the engine currently in the car has a lot of mileage on it and I suspect it's burning some oil. Would burning oil damage the O2 sensor? Would burning oil cause an inaccurate mixture reading? How far from the head can the O2 sensor be mounted? The directions indicate the sensor should be mounted on the sides or top of the pipe. I'd like to mount it in the head pipe or header collector before the firewall which would make physically reaching it easier for removing it and placing the plug in, make mounting it on top of the pipe easier and wiring it easier and not have to worry about the wires being damaged

I'm going to agree with Pete... use the NGKs, don't use the champions.

Roger at the Zbarn taught me how to identify the 5 speeds by looking at the tail shaft area. The early 5 speeds like those that came in a 280z have a steel collar around the end of the tail shaft (where the driveshaft comes out) The later 5 speeds like those that came in a 280ZX don't have the steel collar, that area is just plain cast aluminum. BTW he also told me the 79 ZX came with the earlier style and the later style wasn't available until 1980.

Just to add one thing... if you do intend to race your car check the rule book and make sure it's legal to do. For instance in SCCA improved touring it is not legal

I agree with Mike, new weatherstrip is really the only proper cure. Soaking rubber with parts cleaner can't be good for it and probably will cause it to eventually crumble. And Naviathan. I'm sure it really does work, and on your 208K daily driver it is better then sitting in a puddle everyday.