mom'sZ

LT280z... I noticed you're new here, welcome. But let me be the first to say... and don't take offense please, but use the search function. There was just a post within the last week or so that folks discussed bolt sizes for the bellhousing on both the L-28 and SBC. It was in reference to bolting the engine to the stand so maybe search for engine stand. Try lots of different terms in the search. Also you didn't mention what engine you have. I can confirm the bolts for the bellhousing for a four speed are different length on an L-28. I think they are 10mm x 1.5threads but confirm. Length was 150mm for all except one was 175mm, again please confirm or if you can't find out I'll check when I get home. Pressure plate and flywheel one are still available from Nissan. Not a bad idea on such important bolts. Did the engine builder 'lose' the ones you gave him? Not a complete answer but some clues. Good luck!!

You know, years ago I saw a kit to water cool the heads on an air cooled 2 stroke motorcycle. They mounted the 'radiator' physically higher then the head and it employed no pump. They claimed heat rising caused circulation and had test results they claimed proved it. Never tried it (illegal for my class) but was intrigued. When I read Jt1's idea that was the first thing I thought of.

Spoon.. try to use more descriptive subjects so folks using the search function will know if this thread is helpful without having to read the whole post. Instead of 'will this work on my car?' try 'will this speedometer on ebay work on my car?' or something like that. Can't answer your question but I've read about guys swapping in the digital ones... the search function is yer buddy... don't take offense, we all get it at first. As Mike says... thanks for playing... try again

cygnusx1: Killer good idea!!! (why didn't I think of it) that really is bright. only problem is the ones in the bellhousing area would require tranny removal, same for timing chain one. Practical at rebuild time, put difficult in a running car. It was also suggested (in the other thread?) to put a sensor in one and log pressure. I thought that was a little over kill at that time. But short of a tear down, it would provide clues. Wouldn't have to be welded in either, drill and bolt in. But I have a brand new Innovate DL-32 so...

told ya I've always heard the brass plugs are for marine applications where salt water will be running through the block. Brass is softer then steel and they will pop out easier. Most marine applications, the motor runs at lower RPMs and at a steady state for long periods. I'd get steel. The only other thing I can contribute to this discussion is that in my prior experience 'core plugs' always seemed tighter. It's been a while since I've changed one in anything other then an L-28, but it seemed to me the 35mm one in these engines kind of fit... a little loose (doesn't seem to take as much beating to get them in) I'm wondering if a flapper wheel or whatever is actually enlarging the hole slightly, making it easier to pop out. I always just take some emery cloth by hand and just until they are clean. How did you guys do your's (garrett and 280zforce)? Are the ones that popped out ones you guys installed? I'm not completely convinced cylinder pressure is doing it. Guess if one of these guys blows a head gasket or does a tear down and sees evidence of a leak is the only way we'll know for sure. I agree with Paul that if you strap them in, you may just find the next weakest link. They better all be strapped in. oh well just my two cents, I'll crawl back in my hole now.

man... one thing about featherfill is it used to have adhesion issues on metal. I think it was originally made for use on fiberglass. It fills great though. Hopefully they fixed that problem. It was years ago that I remember the problems with it.

Yikes!!! that one looks pretty bad. The strut picture and your location make me think it may have been driven on salted road during the winter. I was a paint and body guy for twenty five years. Like boodlfoof said 'no car is beyond saving' but, that one is pretty bad. There may not be a huge supply of zcars in sweden, that may have to do with why Mull did what he did. I had people bring me car to have rust repaired and ask how much and I would tell them 'enough that you could fly out west, buy a cleaner one and drive it home cheaper'. Personally I'd buy it for the parts, a rebuildable engine and tranny is worth 300$ to me. If you don't weld, or do bodywork I might hold out for a cleaner car. The paint job is pretty typical of these rusted cars I remember. I lot of time people have put a lot of money into the car before they realize how bad it is.

If Paul (BRAAP) sees this we're going to get another lecture (kidding Paul)

I had moved on to my second career by then. I imagine the newer ones are much stiffer. nice... I thought you had mentioned in another thread that the floor pans had been replaced, must be mixed up... sorry

here's a link to an outfit that sells a contraption that hangs on the car to do toe. looks kind of howky. They say the advantage is that the car can be rolled around and bounced to settle the suspension (a sound idea) If you scroll down a little though, there is a picture of what they call a smart camber, which looks very similar to the 'dunlop' style adapter for the bubble type gauges http://www.smartracingproducts.com/alignment.htm

That's how it appears to me as well Jon. And I agree, I don't know how that could work very well. They make them digital now as well I have a spot marked on the garage floor that is pretty level, better then most. buying some of those isn't out of the question. I've seen a lot of different kinds of alignment tools. lazer alignment tools, one that hangs from the car and claims to work even on non-level surfaces.I've done string, tape measure, straight edge, angle finder type alignments and later brought it to a shop, had them put it on the rack and was amazed how close I got in the garage. Close enough that what alignment they did do was 'splitting hairs' certainly close enough for my purposes. I really just think the camber gauge would just be easier / faster. Maybe the 'dunlop' style one would work better. I'll see if I can find a link or pic

cygnusx1: thanks for the advise, I also have a method I currently use which is similar (straight edge, angle finder ect.) BTW I use acad at work as well, what kind of design work do you do? Also group: we all know how to calculate caster from camber by turning the wheels an equal amount in both directions. But how to check caster on the rear wheels?

I want to buy one of those camber gauges, like the longacres ones or something similar that the circle track suppliers sell. I've read up on them and am sure they'll work for my purposes. I'm not looking for advise as to how they work. What I want to know is, they sell a number of different adapters for attaching it to the hubs / wheels. I need to use it on the front and back of my z. The suspension uses stock hubs ect. Some seem to have a magnetic base that sticks to the hub? another choice is a 'dunlop' style that seems to attach to the edge of the rim (and claims to be universal). Does anybody have experience with these and knows which style adapter would work best for a Zcar?

Cameron: I remember you talking about this in another thread and reading this thread makes me think. I think we'll all agree that first gen. Zcars are flexy flyers. The comparison to the focus is valid. That is a modern unibody, and from casual observation I'd be willing to bet that it's pretty stiff. Unibody construction has come a long way. But every camaro I've ever worked on (paint and body guy - 25 + years) was flimsy as all get out. Maybe a little stiffer then a z, but not much. My car is a 77, and it's flimsy, but it doesn't sag in the manner you describe. The hood gaps moving around... no way. Rust wise, my car is pretty clean, it's got some rust (they all do) but structurally it's all there. I can't help but wonder if you shell is compromised. I assume you've looked it over real well. Were the floor pans replaced? My point is the first step is getting the stock unibody to a point of structural integrity. If this is the case then I appologize. A lot can hide under all that undercoating. Things like the wheel wells being rusted, or quarter bottoms, cracks in the sail pillars, they can all add up to a lot of body flex. Just a thought.

Just so you know, the fuel injection harness is a completely separate harness from any of the other wiring harnesses on the car. Since you are using the carb you can completely remove it with no ill effects on any other part of the car.

I agree One of the most common applications of this type of scoop (from the factory) is the Chevy Chevelle. I believe they sealed the intake to it. hey... just for grins why don't you duct tape off the opening and go for a drive.

If I had a car with a roll cage or roll bar that was driven on the street (with no helmet on) then I would want a race harness... simply because it would hold you in place better and there would be less chance of bumping your head on the tubing in the event of a collision.

Where are you guys? I need the L-28 and the 5speed But I'm in florida and it looks like you guys are in WA (washington state?)

bump Olie: did you ever resolve this issue? Max.. you crack me up

The rings use cylinder pressure to help them seal during running conditions.

That sounds like a pretty good idea. Like a few have pointed out, on a street car a race harness is less then ideal. That's why the manfacturers came up with the pendulum lock deal. They didn't want you unfastening the seat belt if you drop your cigerette (ok you don't smoke, but you get the idea) Then came passive restraint, you remember the little tracks in the door that put the seat belt on for you? And now air bags. Apparently we are so dumb we don't know what's good for us. Jon... I always thought that the argument for not wearing a belt was that you would be thrown clear of a wreck, that and not trapped in a fire... all equally ludicrous.

well since nobody is replying to this one, I'll give it a try. Generally the shoulder straps of a racing harness are anchored to a roll cage. I think some folks have anchored them to a rear strut bar as well. The lap and crouch straps are attached to large plates under the floor pan to keep the mount from pulling through. Often the stock lap belt mounts will work. What ever you choose to do, be careful to follow the manufacturer's instructions as an improperly installed harness can be more dangerous then no harness.

I just want to point out that I think RC works a regular job and MM is a side deal for him. Everyone in the Zcar community has benifited from his knowledge and skill. The parts he manufactures are for an old and somewhat rare model, not stuff he could make big bucks on (read ricer crap). I don't know the guy, I've never bought anything from him, but I bet what he charges for a part is what it cost him plus enough to cover his expenses and a small profit. Not a lot of room to cut from. I don't mean this as anything negative toward any of the folks in this thread or otherwise. Hope no one is offended by my post. I for one would like to thank Ross for making these parts available

Yeah or want if it blows one out that's a b*tch to get to, like the one inside the bellhousing. oh man.. which ones are popping out by the way garrett?

I agree with 383 240z and dr hunt. I've heard of using three small screws to 'pin' them in. Dr hunt's idea is a good one too. I don't think there is anything 'wrong' that needs fixed, just extreme use. I've also seen a small steel strap (about a quarter inch wide) screwed to the block spanning the hole. That might be easier to do if the engine is still in the car. I've also heard the same thing about brass plugs... to soft, they're for marine applications. How does the car cool? Otherwise no problems? Maybe slow the water pump down.