jimzdat
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Posts posted by jimzdat
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I could set up a simple "guestbook" style form for people to input the info they want posted, and then update the HTML as needed--I've got room to host it if Dan doesn't--it's a simple solution, but it'll work for something like that
Maybe we should start a poll to see if there's enought interest?
OK, I threw a quick form together--how about this:
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The C6 is typically found behind the big motors, but was also put behind a bunch of the Windsor motors (289/302/351)--I have a C6 in my 83 F350 with a 351W in it
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No problem, guys--anytime
I'm nowhere near good enough to write a manual, this just all comes from the fact that I've owned 4 Zs over the last 12 years, and not a 1 of them ran when I got it--lots of learning curve keeping them on the road.
And since my project car is in approximately 1,875,475,789 pieces, it's easy to get pics of some items when people need them
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Here's pics to help out:
Hope this helps, if not, drop me another email and I'll do what I can
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Do the tubes go into a round doohickey with about 7 connections on it? If so, then yep--that's the one I'm talking about
I'll get some pics tomorrow, and point out what I was talking about if that'll help at all
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All those hoses do serve functions--if al you want is heat and defog, then you can get rid of them as long as you bypass the vacuum operated water valve (I used a few inches of copper pipe and an elbow to replace mine with)
The heat/defog flap is at the very bottom of the heater box--cable operated (I believe it's on the driver's side), with a little linkage inside to open/close the other side
If you need em, I can take pics of my heater unit, since it's out of the car and sitting there still completely assembled
Jim
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But easy to explain--if he lives in the Memphis area (especially the south side)He is from miss, and tenn. Now that`s one heck of a mixIf you drive south out of Memphis on I-55, it takes about 15-20 minutes to get into Mississippi
Not that it's a good thing (need your shots, etc before going there
), but it can be done -
Holy crap!--I almost hate to admit I live in Tennessee with an idiot like that.
I am only an hour away, maybe I should go down there and
him, just to make myself feel better -
When I bought my Grant wheel for my 76, the local Auto Zone had to special order the grant hub adapter--not a normal stock item. I am going to be using a GM column in my car, so my adapter just became useless to me--I'd be willing to sell it for cheap, make a reasonable offer and it can be yours.
(I'm keeping the wheel)
For that matter, make me a reasonable offer on a 280 steering column with Grant hub and wiper/light/turn signal switches on it and that can be yours
Jim
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and I can't believe you posted this in 12 different forums, just to show us a car that has been around for awhile--on ebay, no less.
One post would have been sufficient
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Or you can go high tech and get electric cutouts:
A little pricey, but neat as heck!
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For info on the mufflers: Supertrapp
As far as good info about them.....well....they are nice and shiny chunks of pipe when you get the box open...not too hard to install...good for annoying the living daylights out of your neighbors when you have to leave for work at 4 AM
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Well, if you're working on a early Z, I found the easiest way to do it was remove the window--take off the chrome upper frame, then remove the chrome "windowsill" trim--4 screws hold the window to the regulator, then it just slides out of the door. Once you get the window out, you should be able to use a long flat screwdriver to pop the linkage off the handle, then a 8mm socket and a long extension to get the 2 nuts off the back of the handle--of course, reverse steps for reassembly
Jim
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Loud is an understatement--I had the twice pipes on my car for a few years; get used to shouting at passengers to be heard.
I ended up ordering a Supertrapp from Jegs, and had a local shop just run straight pipe from the collector back, and weld the muffler on--MUCH quieter, plus I could adjust the muffler. The Supertrapp was around $80, and the muffler shop charged me $100 (under the table, cash only, no warranty, forgot to put in one of those catalytic doohickeys when they worked on it:) )
Jim
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Yep, the guy is on the board (cborden) and the company is now Z Car Creations www.zcarcreations.com He actually had 2 copies of the manual, one had searchable PDF files, and cost a little more. I provided the donor manual for the '76 version, and the CD I got is excellent--you can go right to the section you need, and print out just what you want--no more greasy smudges in your books
It also comes with a bunch of old Z commercials for your viewing pleasure
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Hey Owen--measure the hole for the horn button (if you have the wheel already)--according to the Painless catalog I've got, it says:
The Painless RF center fits most aftermarket wheels. (Grant, Lacarra, Billet Specialties, etc) the hole for the horn button in these wheels measures 3 3/16ths. The 3 1/2 inches and 4 1/2 inches referred to in the product description refer to the outside diameter of the RF center. The 4 1/2 version will cover the perimnieter bolt holes, while the 3 1/2 will not.
Then they also have the one for use with 5-hole Grant wheels.
So maybe it will work with your wheel?
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Craig runs Z Car Creations from home, so he may be out of town or something--The last time I was at his site (it's been a while) he was no longer selling the Maxi fuse conversions, but did have the wiring instructions up--I was going to just use the wiring instructions and setup my own fuse block--if you search online for "MAXI fuse blocks", you should come up with something--try places like www.mcmaster.com or www.newark.com. I know I had found some before, but then threw out all the info, since I threw out the idea of leaving my car stock.
Good luck,
Jim
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I just sold off 2 of my engines--a leaky L28 went for $100, and my L28 that was rebuilt (had about 10K miles on it, tall cam, etc) went for $250
Of course these are ebay prices, might find someone willing to pay more, but don't count on it. I also sold a 5 speed for $200, plus $50 just for shipping. The engines were sold to people that I met halfway from their houses, so we worked out delivery.
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I've got a 7th edition, same story--self published, no ISBN. The authors name is Mike Knell, but I think you're gonna be out of luck at the library.
FWIW, I got mine for 20 bucks on ebay
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With the top off of the float bowl, flip it up side down, and let the float tang just barely rest on the needle valve--then measure the space between the bowl lid and the float (measure opposite the pivot point)--if I remember right it should be ~9/16"
If you're interested, I have a copy of the "Just SU" tape from ZTherapy that I won't be neeiding anymore--watched it once--15 bucks, including shipping
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I saw one of these engines with a T5 behind it on ebay a few months ago, so I guess it could be done. You might want to check out www.clubgp.com --go to the forums area, and read about some of the problems going on about mods, just for good measure--there are now a few reprogrammed PCM's, new pulleys, etc for those motors--but it seems like one of the weak points is #3 piston--a lot of people frying that one for some reason-only applies to modded motors so far, but if you're gonna put it in a Z, it's not like you're gonna leave it stock either
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Most AC systems feed 12 volts to the compressor clutch--maybe tap off of that so when the compressor runs so do fans? I know there are a few other switches integrated into the AC system--maybe use the feed off of one of those?
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One "old-school" method is to fill the unit up with water, then take an old 10-speed innertube; cut it opposite the valve stem--clamp one end onto either side of the heater core, the use your handy-dandy air pump to inflate the tube--put about 10-15 psi on it and check for leaks.
Works for radiators too, but you usually have to use a big BMX tire tube for the bigger hose fittings.
Can't tell you for sure yet if it'll work with the 350, but I see no reason why it shouldnt
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Sounds like float levels are set way off, or you've got a float/needle valve assembly that is stuck, and not shutting off the fuel supply--a 5 psi pump should be OK, at least mine seems to work fine.
Pull the tops off of the fuel bowls; make sure there is nothing causing the needle valves to stick (if you can get rebuild kits, just replace them--ideally with Grose jets from ztherapy) then make sure your floats are set to ~9/16"--put it back together, and see what you get.
Remember, the float level must be below the top of the nozzle in the base of the carb body--draw an "imaginary" line horizontal across the bottom of the carb throat--if the fuel level in the bowl is above that line, it's just gonna run out the nozzle and onto the ground.
), but it can be done
him, just to make myself feel better 
Hybridz helpers list?
in Site Support
Posted
bump--this could be a nice resource, let's get some comments from everyone on it