jimzdat

I've got it on my home PC, and can burn it for you no problem. email me your address and I'll get it sent out to you tomorrow morning jim@jimzdat.com If anyone else needs it and it gets pulled offline, let me know--I've got plenty of webspace for it Jim

Working good for me also (don't really need it, but can't resist a download like that) I'd tend to agree with the above post--probably a memory problem on your PC--what's the specs on it?

And for those wishing to do a wiring harness upgrade, here's a basic diagram for that: (not my diagram) I modified this diagram slightly so I could use the stock dimmer switch easier: 1-Where it shows the Ground connected to terminals 85 on the relays, run 12V instead, switched on by headlight switch 2-where it says "from OE circuit" hook up wires from dimmer switch--dimmer switch will now ground one relay or the other, making lights go on The whole writeup can be found here: http://catalog.com/susq/other/headlamp.htm FWIW, this is the place I bought my Hella H4 conversion from--excellent service, and decent prices--would definitely recommend them.

OK, it's really basic (took me about 5 minutes in MS-Paint) but here's the basic circuit for the lites. Some components are not there (fusible links, ammeter, etc) but this might help. Jim

The headlight switch provides 12v to the lights (via the fuse block-1 for each light) The dimmer switch is what controls the ground--make sure you don't have a loose connection there, and that the ground wire is hooked up under the column. I've also seen the solder joints on the dimmer switch break on occasion HTH, Jim

Guys--read the rest of the editorial, especially the last couple sentences--he says the "by the way, one of the above statements is not true" or something like that--I'm thinking he was just trying to see if people were paying attention or not

I think the seller has the year right, but not the model If it's an 80, then it's a ZX, and I think they did have a little locking storage area back there Guess we cant expect the seller to actually read ALL the letters on his car....

I've done this swap to 3 of the Z cars I've owned, so I'll try and remember what the heck I did. I always used the 5 speed from a 77-78 model. There are different ratios available in the 79-83 models, but I can't remember exactly what is better (think it was the %th gear ratio) Parts you will need: Clutch slave cylinder Clutch master cylinder Metal line to connect the above 2 Flex line at slave cylinder clutch and brake pedals from a manual car (most of the brackets are already under the dash, just need to switch the pedals around) shifter metal plate that goes between engine and trans flywheel clutch kit On some 240's, you have to do some trimming of the shifter hole to get it to work right--can't remember the specifics though I'm sure there are some little tidbits I've forgotten, but I'll try to update as I remember them. Overall, it's not a hard job--the last one I did took me about 3 hours total, but in all honesty, I've been wrenching on cars for 20 years, so your results may vary slightly Good luck, Jim

If you want something fairly quiet, do NOT get the twice pipes system--I bought one (it was cheap) and did not like it--my dad described it as "a cessna flying 3 feet off the ground at full throttle" I had a 2 1/2" pipe run to the rear (had a header, so it came right off the collector) and hung a 4" supertrapp on the end--that was about half as loud as the twicepipes system

Uh guys, it might just be me, but I would think that if you don't want people to respond to the posts, why not just lock them? IIRC, they can still be left as a "sticky", and it fixes the problem of people posting BS responses all the time Don't get me wrong, I think the above-mentioned posts have been on some very good topics, and contain a lot of valuable info (and will hopefully help weed out the unwanted, especially Bob's latest post) Just trying to help keep everything cleaned up and avoid a bunch of extra posts

Fire at a transformer that is part of a ConEd plant--since I work at a power plant, we heard about it about 2 minutes after the grid went down. Basically, the region was just overloaded, and the surge caused by the loss of the transformer is enough to take the grid down. On the plus side, the price we were selling power for doubled right about then too

The EZ Wiring kit is actually pretty good quality, and easy to use--all wires are marked every few inches, and the bundles coming off the fuseblock are well organized. My buddy and I installed one of their kits in a 48 Chevy truck last year--took me a couple days to have it all laid out and routed the way we wanted it, and then it was just a matter of making all the terminations definitely worth every penny, and probably just as damn good as the painless one

With a roof rack it MIGHT be able to, but I don't know if I'd want to risk it--the metal isn't all that thick, and depending on where the rack rests on the roof it may dent it. I suppose a lot of it depends on the kayak also--whitewater or touring? My wife and I have a couple of touring kayaks (Perception Carolina 16 and a Perception America 13.5)--combined weight is just over 100 lbs; not sure I'd want to put them on top of ANY car, much less a Z. I looked into getting a rack for my Bonneville, but that would have been close to $300, and no guarantee that it would have held up worth a damn. So I just put em on a trailer behind the Bronco--dont have to lift em as high that way.

They route air into a duct along the underside of the fender, and into the passenger compartment--when you pull the vent knobs down by the kickpanels, you are allowing fresh air into the cabin thru these ducts Jim

Same here--I thought he just left off an "M" in the subject line.... The life of a geek

I bought a set of carbs from ZTherapy just before Scott sold it--I don't know what exactly MSA is selling, but the ZT carbs are not mere rebuilds--there are some mods done for reliability: new throttle shafts bearings for shaft stuff like that--chances are the MSA ones still have the old bushings in them. When I bought mine, I actually bought just the main carb bodies, and swapped over the rest of my parts--but they worked just great. A friend of mine bought one of the early sets from ZT (set #12, to be exact) and we were able to bolt em on and start it as soon as the fuel bowls filled up--a few minor mixture tweaks and they were working great. IMHO, buy the ZT carbs--don't think you can go wrong with 'em

Thanks Clint--maybe we should ask a moderator to put this up as a sticky or something, so people will see it?

I'm currently using NS7 (kinda pretends to be Mozilla) and am quite happy with it--I prefer it over IE because it allows me to have my browser and email client all in one program, unlike the microsoft world. I tried Opera, but was never quite happy with their new mail client--maybe I just didn't spend enough time trying to figure it out? (BTW-for those of you who are using the free version of opera, if you were to go to http://astalavista.box.sk and evter "opera" and a version number in the search window, you might just find a way around those ads--not condoning piracy, just lookin for loopholes )

Could probably be done, but plumbing the intake would be interesting--the air intake is on the back (bellhousing end) of the motor--it would have to sit fairly far forward in order to give you room to run the intake duct

I had one in my 76, which then got transplanted into my 74, which then got sold, and it was still holding up just fine after almost 5 years. Some of the earlier ones they sold had some quality issues, but I think they got it fixed on later ones. Don't know about the whole line of them, but the ones for early models are only available with the trans cooler in them (set up for automatics)--they used to sell both, but no longer do (in fact, I bought the last one for a manual car--lucky me)

When I converted my cars from auto to manual, I didnt need to replace the pedal box--everything is already there--you just need the pedal and pivot bolt--there was even a blank plate on the firewall where the master cylinder goes But that is on the later models (did 2 74's and a 76) it may be different for the 240's

Well, I'm 6'8", and I can fit in a Z no problem--in the 2-seaters, my head rubs the headliner most of the time, but in the 2+2 (which is all I've ever owned) I have a couple inches of clearance since the roofline is different

As you guys come up with more drawings/files/random scribbles/etc, just email to me at the address above, and I can host em for the general public--keeps em all in one spot that way Jim

OK, got the pics, and they are posted, so here's the link for everyone's benefit: http://hybridz.jimzdat.com/zpics.htm The pics are kinda large files, so I didnt want to bog down the board

Clint, sounds like one helluva undertaking, that might just come in handy. Email it to me, and I can host it for the list--got plenty of space jim@jimzdat.com