racerx260

Thanks For The Imput. What Did You Use On Yours? I Read That The Coating Helps Prevent Leaks Because The Iron Block And The Aluminum Head Expand And Contract At Different Rates. And The Coating Alows Them To Move Independantly And Prevents Leaks Down The Road.

I rebuilt the turbo engine in my 260 about 2 months agao and used a nissan gasket . it had peal off plastic and was tackey to the touch. I am now rebuilding the engine in a 83 turbo I bought and ordered a nissan gasket. This one is dry. The part no. on the old one ended on 910 and a newer sticker was put on the box that ended in 911. The new gasket ends in 911.Do I put this on dry like a felpro or do I need to spray it with copp er or something?

I've got to build a setup for a friend and I'll try and get the park function working on his.then i'll get the full wireing to you.Tried mine out in the rain to day. much better, but then there wasn't any where to go but up.

Bought a 83 turbo and am about to rebuild the engine. I measured the taper using ring gap top vs rig gap bottom x .3 and got a taper of .0006.THe old datsun rebuild book says its ok if under .0008.I'll have to let the machine shop measure the out of round.Should I just hone and ring it and spend the money on something else or buy pistons and bore it.If i rng it only I get to keep the factory ballancing. If I bore it I'll have a little vibration.No one around here ballances the assemblies.what do you think?

I just put a 280zx wiper motor in my 260. Rain x at night is not good enough. went in fairly easy . I cut a notch in the 260 mount and redrilled the three mounting screws and used a couple of wiring diagrams and presto ! wipers.I have the fluid / wiper function and two speeds. next is to get it to park its self instead of timing the switch.but for now its great.

Well I plan on replaceing the thermostat, and the airflow meter and time it and see what that does.

The hayes manual and the owners manual both say the stock 82 motor with p79 head flat tops with nissan head gaskit say 8.8 cr but when you put that in an engine utility or the z engine calculater it comes up with a cr unfer 8.5? whats up with that?

Well no words of wisdom yet.part of the problem was that the fuel filter was clogged and the hose clamps on the connecter from the turbo to the j pipe were gone. that got rid of the backfire and the engine dieing at rpm.however new problems have surfaced. the engine will not rev past 2500 rpm even when floored. it builds boost but nothing happens.also the engine get extremely hot very fast.it might have a bad thermostat.the car has not been on the road for 4 years, how about the muffler or cat has collapsed inside.i haven't found any air leeks yet but it iddles at about 1200 rpm.could the fuel regulator be bad and making it run lean and hot and keep it from reving?Why does it build boost at 2000 rmp and not rev higher?lots of problems and lots of guesses, what do you think?

I like my 260 with the turbo motor so much I bought an 83 280 zxt.now I have to get it home. Great body and interior but motor has running problems. Just need to get it home to build a new motor.I go get it tomarrow and it has the following symptoms. Hard to start, and when it does it stumbles while cold. When it worms it is slow to rev and when it does it will not hold rpm and drops to idle just fine.I'm going for a cloged fuel filter and a bad head temp sensor.Maybe a little work on the afm.What do you think?Let me know i have to go prepaired. any comments welcome but time is short.

magniflow oval 2.5 . perfect .Best comprimise sound to loudness.This is with the turbo .On an n/a motor it is probably too loud.

With a .4 over bore I have about 8.5 cr. If you use the p90 with dished pistons you will have the stock 7.4 cr. good for lots of boost but no tourqe below boost. the 8.5 cr will lower you max potiential boost level but greatly improve drivability at lower boost levels.Depends on what you want.

I have a turbo block with an n42 head at 7 lbs of boost no intercooler.It runs better than the stock p90 head at 7.4 cr on 11 lbs of boost. much better low end than stock.I like it so much I'm building a second one just like it for my other car.

Check your fuel filter.Fuel starvation will restrict your rpms.Mine did it at about the same rpm as yours.Its cheep and you probably need it anyway if it didn't help.

I'm going to look at a 83 zx 2+2 and want to know what are the areas most likely to have rust. I am familiar with the 240-280 bodies but not the zx.Do these later cars have more rust protection are are the as helpless as the earlier bodies.Has anyone tried spray on bed liner as undercoating? It seams as it would be tougher and lighter.

I was going to put a strut tower brace in and attach 4 point belts in back.Hope that will pass the legal requirements, plus my personal safety concerns. Any one aware of any issues?

Thinking About A 83 2+2 For A Second Z. Does Anyone Know If The Back Seat Has Shoulder Straps Or Just A Lap Belt Like The 280 2+2.i Have A 6yr Old And Have To Make The Old Lady Happy.

The 82 83 turbo ecu is easier to convert to a 240. Wiring is simpler. 81 turbo has the best stock cam.To get the best n/a 280 motor you really have to mix parts. If you use an 81/82/83 flat top piston motor with the p90 head you get the best compression and head design and the square ports.the p79 head that comes on the 81/82/83 motor has the same head design as the p90 but has liners in the exhaust port.The 260 cam has the best duration that best suits the carbs you want to use.I had a motor with the f54 block p90 head 260 cam 260 intake and 240 round top carbs and it was a great combo with good tourqe.The compression is 8.8 and can use pump gas as this is stock.If you use an n42 head it has square ports but compression will go way up and is more prone to knock.Use the engine calculator on this sight some were to get exact compression.If you dont want to mix and match just get an 81/82/83 flattop motor and put your manifolds on it.You'll like the extra tourque.I now have a 83 turbo in mine but have rebuilt it to have 8.5 cr . I missed the lowend of the n/a motor.Now I have tourque and it revs out like a cut monkey.good luck

did you use the inner or outer spring?

Are you using the high volume turbo oil pump?. what weight oil are you using?.I tried the other springs but you have to be careful when the oil is cold pressure is way high.Have to let it warm up some before you rev out.

Its intended to be an extender I think.Very simular to the tie rod in the picture.

It would be like a stock one you could use spacers in the bushings or a jam nut where it threads over the stock rods threads.That would shorten your over lap maybe make it weaker.

What they show is a section of rod that screws over the stock tc rod end and then reduces back to stock size to extend its length.It may be increasing caster 3 degrees not totol 3 degrees.

Its on page 99 of the most recent motorsport catalog.I could find nothing about it on their web sight.Sorry I'm too stupid to post a picture.

I saw an ad in motorsport for a kit to increase castor up to 3 degrees.Looks like an extention for the radius rod. Any opinons?I could sure use more high speed stability and centering, as well as outside wheel camber change in turns.I think thats what you get from more castor.It apparently would flex the control arm forward some and put a tweek on the pivot bushing.

I have an early 260 and have not had any problems with the car using the original return line when I put an 83 turbo motor in.No problems with it running rich at idle.