ttodhunter

Wouldn't I have to cut open the fuel tank to do that? From what I see, the pickup line attaches to a hose fitting that is welded in...

Hi, I performed the POR-15 Fuel Tank Repair and now I'm having an issue... I went to try and start the car and found that no fuel was getting to the rails. I checked the fuel pump, seized. Took it apart, cleaned and tested it. That works fine now. Hooked everything back up, hit start with the starter disconnected, heard the fuel pump working and still no fuel. I pulled the supply line off and, after cleaning it up a bit, tried to blow through it. I can not blow even a bit through it. I guess my question is: Can the sealer in the POR-15 kit seal the fuel pickup? If it has done that, is the tank worthless now or is there a way to fix it? Thanks

Alright, thanks guys. Yellow wire on solenoid = working starter. Probably the easiest fix this car will see!

Ok, so I suck at electrical. After a month and a half since I bought my 76, it's time to try and start it. I put in a new battery, clamps on terminals are pretty loose, I'll get new clamps. I tried to start it and just got a "click" from the starter. I looked down there, and there are two loose wires. See pic. The black one comes off of (what I believe to be) the solenoid and appears to be a simple ground. But then there's this yellow wire, coming out of a loom, that was positioned right near the loose black wire. Does anyone know these two wires? Please excuse my stupidity on the subject. I've got the Service Manual, but the starter section doesn't show wiring and the Circuit diagram is f'ing confusing. Thanks!

OK, I was being a little bit of a dumbass. On the passenger side, the rotor/hub slid on perfectly, but on the drivers side, the inner lip was not slipping over the ledge on the strut assembly. When I tightened the bolt, it was pulling the assembly up against the ledge it's supposed to slide over. Sooo... with it (what it felt like) all the way on, I wiggled the hub/rotor assembly up and down, left and right and it slid over the ledge. Hope this can help anyone coming up on the same issue...

I'm in the process of removing the spare tire well also. One thing that was pointed out to me (I plan on keeping the stock tank) is that the tank presses against the tire well, so if it is removed, the tank won't mount properly. One thing I'm noticing for myself is that the drivers side strap appears to be welded to the tire well, so if you cut that off, no more strapping point (correct me if I'm wrong). I assume that installing a fuel cell involves more than just mounting it in place. Fuel outlet lines, I assume, are different size than stock and mating it to the stock fuel system may be an issue? My tire well was completely rusted through, that's why I'm doing mine. If you don't need to remove it, I would advise against it.

Hi all, I'm putting drilled/slotted rotors on the front of my 76 280z and have run into an issue on the drivers side. Passenger side went on without any problems, but the drivers side appears to not go on all the way... The caliper won't line up correctly and the axle nut won't move in enough to get the cotter pin through. I checked the old rotor vs. the new one and they appear to be identical dimensions, at least not different enough to cause this. It seems like the rotor should slide on about an additional 1/8". Any ideas??? Thanks!

Hahaha, yeah, that makes sense! The things you learn after cutting out the spare tire well.... I did order the POR Fuel tank repair kit today but maybe I should look more into the fuel cell...

Sure, pics would be awesome. What did you do with the solution when you were done? Is it Hazmat? Thanks guys.

Awesome info Dave, thanks a ton! Will the Marine Clean or Prep & Ready remove the rust sufficiently?

Don't worry, I'll take care of that rust. Thanks for the info on the radiator shop! I'll call around today.

Hi everyone, I've been a member on here for a while but just picked up my first Z last week. It's a 1976 280Z with solid frame rails! The only rust I could find was surface rust on the floor boards, and the spare tire well was almost completely rusted out. I have since dropped the tank and cut out the tire well, but upon inspecting the fuel tank, there appears to be a bit of rust inside. I guess I have a few questions: 1) Should I try to duplicate the spare tire well or just weld in a flat piece of metal? (I guess I don't really care about having a spare) 2) How can I remove the rust from the tank? 3) Should I just switch to a fuel cell? ...a) Is there a way to hook up the stock fuel guage to that? ...aa) I have a Walbro 255lph pump. Should I install this while I'm in there? Would I run into issues with a stock system or can the regulator/return handle it? I've attached some pics, I know the fuel tank ones are hard to see, but it's tough to get the lens and flash down there. I apologize if I failed to search sufficiently, but I wasn't able to find what I'm hoping to find. Thanks for the input! Tyler