ttodhunter

My link I'm planning on using these guys when the time comes. Even though it's custom, it looks like it's still a bit cheaper than MSA...

Are you planning on running the EFI system or carbs? If you're going carbs, you won't need any of that stuff. If you're keeping EFI, I'm sure you can find those parts here on the forum. Where are you at in WA?

Awesome. I'll keep my eyes out for it.

Where/how are you mounting the 02 sensor? I've been planning on doing this as well...

Yeah, that link also sells a mount kit. $12,500 is incredibly expensive, and for (only) 350hp, I'd think there are much better options. I'm pretty sure you can get a 5.0 H.O. motor and T5 tranny from a junkyard for less than a grand, put another $2-3k into rebuilding it with goodies and another $2500 on a supercharger kit and you'll have a total beast...

Two thoughts... Clogged fuel line/filter and/or ECU problems. Grab a new fuel filter from a parts store, they're cheap. Check that the injectors are firing by holding a screwdriver to them with your ear on the other end while someone cranks the engine. You should hear clicks through the screwdriver.

My link Looks like it's been discussed on hybridz before, but I'd never seen one...

Welcome to HybridZ. I saw this yesterday and it stumped me so I didn't post anything hoping someone else might have an answer for you. From what you have posted, I'd have to believe there is something wrong with the actual turn signal switch. If the hazards flash all lights, the bulbs, wiring and flasher unit are all working. If you don't have the FSM yet, you should get one here http://xenons30.com/reference.html. It might help you with this problem, but will surely come in handy over the course of Z ownership. Yes, I would bleed the clutch system. Good luck!

There's a whole RB section in the 6 cylinder Z subforum. Tons of info in there, including this: http://forums.hybridz.org/index.php/topic/100495-rb20det-into-my-240z/

Also, if you don't have a wide band 02 and AFR monitor in cab, you should do that. It would be a lot cheaper than ongoing dyno sessions to get a rough dial in.

I had a SDS system on my turbocharged Acura Legend that I'll be putting on my Z in the near future. When I had it running on the Legend, everything was adjustable. I have to ask if you have the controller? It's really easy to use. To adjust your AFR, you would go into the RPM fuel section on the controller, reference your dyno AFR map and use the -1 button to subtract fuel at any given RPM until you are reading AFR's where you want them. The manifold pressure settings are pre-programmed from the factory, IIRC, but are also adjustable. These would affect your cruise vs. WOT numbers, so them saying it is one way or the other is crap. You should have full tuneability for your fuel maps. Like stated above, the ignition contol is nice but not mandatory.

I like it! I keep my eyes open for cars like that. Drop in a L20b with some goodies and you should have a fun little car.

It sounds like the BCDD valve, and it's normal to some extent. It's described in the FSM in the Emission Control section.

The way I had it set up in the original post led to an open PCV system; I explain how to fix it near the bottom.

I wrote this a little while back: My link

Not a hybrid. They came rwd with V8's in Japan.

According to O'Reilly's website, Turbo AFM is #157-0127 and N/A is #157-0028.

Subscribed. Nice work so far! I got a HF blaster for xmas and am waiting to get started on a practice fender. I've also debated doing a 5.0 swap, so I'm interested in seeing how it turns out. Will you be using Technoversion's kit?

I'm assuming that the starter isn't cranking? You can get a remote starter switch from a parts store, hook it up and see if that works. If it doesn't work, bad starter. If it does work, you need to chase down wiring...

Just to make sure, you have removed the access panel behind the wheel, right? That opens up a lot of useable space. Other than that, I used WD-40 and a flathead screwdriver to help force it back on...

I don't know much about Megasquirt; I have a SDS system that I'm going to install once I get some money, so my (limited) knowledge on aftermarket EMS's is related to SDS. Based on that, you would probably need: -Fuel pump -FI intake mani/ fuel rail/ pressure regulator/ injectors -Map sensor -240sx or other potentiometer type throttle body -IAT and Water Temp sensors -Injector harness Probably pretty similar for Megasquirt.

Have you considered throwing some carbs on it? Another option is to build a Megasquirt setup, if you're starting from scratch anyway... Otherwise, if you dont have the FSM's and the Fuel Injection Bible, those have everything you would need. Here's everything:

The 75's came fuel injected, so I guess what you're gonna need is what's missing from the original setup. I take it there's no engine in it now? Does the wrecked 280 have its engine? If so, I'd grab that.

What exactly do you mean by "not charging"? Does the battery drain when the engine is running? What is showing on the volt meter on the dash? What is the voltage reading across the battery when the engine is running? If the charge light is off when the engine is running, it thinks it's getting voltage... I have a '76 4 speed coupe, I don't have any interlock that I know of...

It kinda sounds like you have a large vacuum leak or the timing is way off. For vacuum, check the intake boot for cracks in the accordian section, check all the small lines running around the engine, all the hoses for pcv. Borrow a vacuum tester from O'Reilly's or wherever then follow the instructions on this page: http://www.atlanticz.ca/zclub/techtips/vacuum/index.html Do a check of the timing. '76 manual shows idle timing of 10* BTDC (engine cold) or 7* (engine warm). Hope that helps, if not, those are still good things to do and they're free.