thehelix112

Definitely. My starting point will be the YZ kit. Dave

BJ, I agree with you on the side vents. There are some difficulties, but nothing that can't be overcome. Though I am quite aware its not a matter of simply cutting some holes. I have to disagree on the explanation of the front diffuser. According to Venturi's principle air flowing into an expanding region will slow down. Slower air has more static pressure, so in the case of a diffuser there is INCREASED pressure. This is not that case with a rear diffuser/underbody channel because of more complicated effects coming into play. Namely vorticies spilling inwards from the side of the car, and the reduced restriction to flow due to a more streamlined trailing edge of the car. I posted something on another forum about maybe the front diffuser's job is to minimise the air going into the wheel well. It could do this by having its forward facing section narrower than the rear one (as per the pic in S. McBeath). In this case both the high pressure in front of the wheel, and the higher pressure in the channel itself would, maybe, create a wedge for the faster moving air in between the points of the wedge to be diverted under the car where we want it. Getting complicated. I will have to sift through the mountain of information on Mullanes Corner at some point. Dave

Just a tad. Dave

Sorry to bring this thread back, but I was thinking the other day that not many people get that sort of opportunity of testing 350 welds to destruction before building a cage. I was wondering if you had any details/advice on what welds you found to be the strongest. Anything, inches per second, feed rate, welder settings, etc etc. Thanks in advance, Dave

It would seem to me that industry specific knowledge would be more critical than general business knowledge. Though I could be wrong, I know nothing about running a business except the general rule that word of mouth is extremely powerful, so treat your customers well. Oh and is there any such thing as overeducate? I guess so, I was told from one company I wouldn't be hired because I didn't have a Masters and they didn't think they could mould me into a job. Dave (PhD Computer Science)

280Zone, If they have a hole in the appropriate bit through the fender, then yes, they are functional. I don't know if they're big enough to vent a whole lot, but some is better than none! John, Its hurting my head to think about that, so I'll be quiet for now. Dave

John, http://www.mulsannescorner.com/diffuser.htm Just in front of the front wheel is a small upward arc. Thats the front diffuser. Mopar, I agree with your hypothesis on airflow inside the front fender. However, the air going around the wheel spinning cannot go down as the wheel meets the ground and blocks it. Hence there is a big stagnation point under the front of the wheel, which greats high pressure and hence pushes the air upwards and over the wheel. Dave

Yes I do mean fender when I say guard. Fender/guard/front quarter panel, same same. . I am not entirely sure what you mean by ballast in this context. I think the rotation of the wheels and the necessary shape of the rear fender well will mean there is a high pressure on top of the wheel. That and the air is already headed in that direction, and additionally compounded by the lower-than-ambient accellerated air on top of the fender. This pressure differential will mean lots of air gets drawn out, which will reduce drag and lift. Hence every closed-wheel race car you see has this, from the ALMS to the grand american daytona prototypes to terry's race car. Yes I will be using these vents on the race car. Dave

Terry's car has a lot of these features: Top guard vents: http://www.fototime.com/ftweb/bin/ft.dll/standard?pictid={DDD2ED6F-8F41-44AA-9D6E-6A283C1D8801} Side guard vents: http://www.fototime.com/ftweb/bin/ft.dll/standard?pictid={A5694E3B-579E-49EF-9EE3-125F751F6A06} Dave

http://carfiche.com/fiche009/s130/2/c08.gif Carfiche only appears to list one conrod for both L28E and L28ET. Dave

Guys, Have some questions regarding the aerodynamics of front wheel wells. I have been reading both Joseph Katz's book `Race Car Aerodynamics' and Simon McBeath `Competition Car Aerodynamics'. I understand that you put vents in the side of the front guard behind the wheel, to vent the high pressure air in the well that builds up because of the `scoop' shape of the guard behind the wheel. That makes sense. You also put a vent on top of the guard right above the wheel to vent the same built up air. This has the added benefit of increasing the static pressure on top of the guard and reducing lift over the front wheels. That makes sense too. You then put a small diffuser on the front splitter/underpan in front of the wheels so it doesn't have to do a sharp 90 degree turn to head up the front of the wheel and out the top vent. That makes sense too. My question is, do you think this diffuser should have a sharp 90 degree inside edge, ala rear diffusers? or be smoothed into the flat underpan that runs under the engine? The idea of sharp edges is to generate vorticies INTO the diffuser to energise that flow and delay flow separation. The only one I have seen (in S. McBeath) had smoothed edges. I was wondering if the sharp edge might not generate enough of a vortex to enable much steeper front diffuser, so maybe its not worth it? I was also interested in the flow-down effect of any underbody vorticies. Would this allow me to run a longer/deeper/sharper rear diffuser? I think thats all I can think of for now. Dave

Seems to me that I am not going to believe either one of you until someone comes up with some evidence. Until then its two gooses talking crap on the Internet. I don't care if you're 45 and been building L28s for 30 years, prove it, or shut up. Dave

You really shouldn't have the pan below the engine x-member. You want something substantial to hit the ground before your sump gets ripped off and your engine dies a very quick death. Dave

Justin, Haven't dyno'd the car yet. Car ran 12.834 @ 115MPH on 10psi with a 2.2 60' (195 street rubber and open diff). 115MPH on 10psi I was pretty happy with. Running 17psi atm, but in need of a freshen up. Dave

Just got a mate to take some pics of my car. Car in Australia, me in Orange County. Looks like a pile of crap, but goes ok. Dave

Mike is spot on. What will happen if you place the T/B after the supercharger without a BOV is you will break the belts that drive it, or worse. Dave

Lots of Australians dying this week. Very sad, until you realise that we generally live luxurious lives and that 1000s of people die EVERY day in much worse conditions all around the world. Spare a thought for them. Dave

Can't wait to see pics. Dave

Rick, Thanks for that. BTW, when is yours due for paint? Or am I behind the times? Dave

True, but that car is a ``Nissan R33 Skyline Twin Cam RB25DET''. Dave

Does look damn good. I have a quick question, is the wheel arch on the front in the stock location? and is it lipped? I would like to get some more castor when I put the YZ's on, and was wondering what would be required? Dave

Nismopick, The RB26 officially makes 280hp stock. 260 `official' hp from the RB25 sounds about right to me. Dave

As an Australian, I f'n hated him. He played upon the American ignorance and stereo-types of Australians for his own personal benefit and was a terrible representative of our country. Did I mention hes a friggin idiot? I think it was a Tom Clancy book I read: If you slap a tiger on the arse, you had better have a friggin good plan for dealing with its teeth. Dave Dave, I edited the cuss word, sorry, but I think we get the jist. Doc

What Brad Man said. Dave

If you had read the thread, and/or searched you would see that they never made them. What was being talked about was a custom order which I am not sure ever went through. I emailed them about it a few months ago and got a `not available' response. Dave