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thanks guys update definately no leaks of brake fluid i have been concentrating on re-bleeding the front brakes as i primed the m/c before fitting and the rear brakes were ok before the pedal stays hard at the 1/2 way point if you keep pressure on it with the engine off....turn it on and it goes straight down with no effort at all....revs rise slightly on pumping brake pedal indicating vacuum being drawn i can't help thinking it's to do with the actuator rod,even though i measured the static depth in the m/c and it was within a bees privates......lets say the rod was too long or too short-what symptoms would i see???? thanks for your patience paul

i beleive the genuine nissan unis are the strongest of all.........partly due to the absence of the grease nipple which degrades the structural integrity by providing a stress point ....but if you want to be sure fit the cv 1/2 shafts from the 280zxt....i am presuming you have the r200 diff good luck paul

thanks guys in answer to recent posts.......... checked the sticky's before this upgrade,the actuator rod in the booster was not disturbed so i don't think the disc is the cause nor the booster when bleeding the calipers i am not getting any air in the line and that is after the car sat over night,i would expect ANY air to have risen to the bleed nipples feel uneasy about seeing if the brakes stop the car when the pedal goes straight to the floor without resistance with the motor running....i figure this is about as close as you get to confirming you have no brakes without actually running into a pole booster worked fine before,i think this is barking up the wrong tree,i may be wrong? what would cause a hard 1/2 pedal and then NO pedal with vacuum assist???

thanks guys bleed screws upwards 240z m/c was too small(not enough volume of fluid to operate the calipers) as the pedal was dangerously close to the floor with new pads...would run out of travel when pads wore....i know this for a fact as it happened on another like conversion(these twin pot calipers are off a 4000lb car operating 330mm discs) the main question or clue is why is there resistance on the pedal until the engine is started(vacuum assisted)

thanks guys booster worked fine before have drums on rear have right m/c

hi guys, just finished a search with no luck i have just upgraded my front brakes to larger calipers and ventilated discs so as suggested i fitted the larger 15/16 master cylinder off a 280zx(rebuilt) i bench bled the master cylinder before installing it then bled up the brakes the pedal seemed reasonable-resistance from 1/4 to 1/2 on depressing-however upon starting the engine the pedal went from go to whoa without any hint of resistance i checked that fluid was still being pushed through the calipers and it was with no apparent air anyone got any ideas as to what the problem could be?? paul ps i checked the rod depth into the master cylinder by measurement and it seemed ok

see link above ....i bet this makes you stateside guys cry....we've got rb30's a plenty over here(australia) they are worth pittance,lots of guys use them as boat anchors ,lol. ....must be the only performance part we have cheaper over here!! paul

interesting so what's the rule of thumb for sizing converters for turbo cars,i posed this question some time ago and got no joy i have a 240z with a jatco 3speed+overdrive behind an rb30et,looking to get the motor on boost asap off the line,currently running a manual and see very little boost in first gear(too low?,not enough load?) about 7psi in second then 14psi in the top 3 paul ps sorry to hijack your thread

hi the guy i got the motor off bought the bellhousing from the states at a cost of $1500!!!,custom HD clutch was another $600,and the box (r154)was new from japan and was $1500 with shifter......the whole lot has done less than 1000km i am selling the lot for $2500 in australia if anyones interested not sure about the celica box/bellhousing,it was in the car when i got it as i mentioned this box has taken some real punishment since mid 80's and still drives like new....a testimony to the strength of toyota gearboxes,the r154 i'd imagine would be even stronger with ratios to suit Z/v8 regards paul

that would be appreciated

hi ash if you want to be sure get the turbo vl mx7 box(make sure you get that starter too)...they are pretty strong why are you avoiding the rb25 box,there would be quite a few around i would think....? cost,i have heard they are better than even the mx7 and obviously perfectly suited ratios for your application you may want to look here for lots of info http://www.calaisturbo.com.au good luck paul

all early 260 and 240z rear-ends are 25 spline companion flange on the r180(the turbo 280zx splines are the same as the 240's) i beleive,the later 260z's were 27 spline so apart from cv's vs unis....what are the differences between turbo and non turbo 280zx halfshafts? some 280zx non turbos came out with cv halfshafts....at least i have seen them in australia...ARE THESE DIFFERENT IN ANY WAY TO THE TURBO ONES cheers paul

hi mike, got your email and will be in touch regards your fuel pump dilemma.....i wouldn't skimp as lack of fuel pressure/flow at the wrong time will cost you big bucks(melted pistons or holes in them) i would recommend the bosch 044 with a surge tank i would also look on the forum about the wiring to the fuel pump mod for z's as they can suffer from voltage drop which can really mess with advertised flow rates the bosch 044 is used by many racers and maintains flow rates across all the pressure range(not many pumps mention this fact) i got my 044 for $270 delivered brand new with bracket,saw on another aussie forum they were being offered by a sponsor for $240 if memory serves me correctly finally the 044 has screw in fittings that allow you to secure the high pressure side better than just clamping it.....handy to know when you could have the equivalent of a petrol bowser of fuel pouring into your engine bay it is also worth noting that these pumps can suffer premature failure if the have to suck fuel up to them....eg if pump a long way from the tank or mounted higher than it against gravity....just thought i'd mention that in case mounting position is a dilemma regards paul

hi guys could someone explain why only the zxt halfshafts can be used in the r200 into 240z and not the zx ones(if indeed this is the case)....presume the lengths are the same,so is it the bolt pattern of the companion flange?? cheers paul

no worries....as soon as it arrives and i can recommend the supplier from a positive experience paul ps i haven't heard back from amax regarding their discrepancy in international versus domestic pricing policy

g'day s30 yes they are gas research australia carbies......got the entire set up for $700 off an xf ute (250c.i turbo running 11's) i already have a boss 302(not windsor/cleveland) and older steel cased model supra 5 speed in the car, and have the 302 windsor(previously single turbo) and new model supra 5 speed waiting in the wings i am going auto so will be getting rid of the manual i am very impressed with the strength of the supra gearboxes,even the old model one is as good as new despite several diffs giving up the ghost(courtesy of one of previous owners) they both fit in the existing trans tunnel how far you got with your conversion? will it be street legal in victoria? what are you doing for brake upgrade?i've got valiant alloy calipers and ventilated discs up front with r31 skyline discs on rear on my rb30t 240z and i have vt commodore discs/calipers up front on the v8 240 what are you doing for a diff?i am going lsd r200 on the v8....not sure whether quaife/viscous/clsd....probably the former for strength and low maintenance pic of my boss 302 240z below paul

just thought i'd update you all...esp those in aus.....managed to find a supplier(overseas)that will ship the r200 quaife atb to my door for the same price as the aussie product....herein endeth the quest.

are the kaaz carriers as strong as the quaife atb and is there much difference in price? i was under the impression that the quaife is set and forget with 100% lifetime warranty....including if your racing it,now that's peace of mind,lol. paul ps i got a price of AU$1550 for the quaife units(US$1160)inc delivery to australia

...difference is i bet a chinaman could still buy the tacho in china for $5.

not sure how this guy can sting locals over AUD$1400+10%gst yet sell to our american cousins for US$850.........i've done the maths and we are being gaffed couldn't support a business like that when drax can supply a quaife for US$1350 regardless of which country you are from.....it's about time aussie businesses woke up to internet shopping 'nuf said

hi guys, anyone shed any light on who's got the best price on a quaife ATB unit to suit the R200(model QDF7L) i am in australia,but it may be cheaper to ship it internationally cheers paul

looks like an R200 diff to me

blowzilla....is that the kenne bell s/c? if so have heard they are good but pricey i have got a twin GRA 400 carbies and twin B2 converters,one of my concerns is if the single gas outlet from the tank will supply enough fuel to support 500hp+ my other dilemma is whether i need to go EMS to manage the timing....i have a spare wolf 3D but was hoping to keep things simple if possible,possibly get the dizzy regraphed? any comments/ideas welcomed paul