gvincent

Hey 260POS and Jmortenson. I grew up in Westlake on the island and graduated from Agoura HS in 1972!!! I can tell some stories about old Agoura road, Encinal Canyon, Decker Canyon and all the great canyon racing we did back in the late 60's early 70"s when US101 was only 2 lanes in each direction from Malibu Canyon road at the end of the Calabasaa down grade all the way to Thousand Oaks Blvd/county line. old Agoura road ran all the way along side the freeway at that time. Racing behind the lake in Westlake before there where houses there. Heck half the island was not even built. There was nothing behind Agoura HS and Lindero Canyon road just dead ended about a 1/2 mile past the school turn off. This was our 1/4 mile dragstrip! I have now lived south of Boston MA for 25 years. I have ton's of racing stories from that era, and went though a few of my 9 lives as well Always a Kid! Greg

Thanks for the hints guys, Yeah I figured I would have to pull it back into the engine bay as I don't think the connector for the AFM would fit throught the whole, I will probably have to cut back some of the tape on the very end of the harness to free up the FI relay harness a little more from the ECU harness to pull them through seperately. I will take pictures tonight of the wiring and the pull, I an still concerned about those two plugs though, looking at the cheesy Chiltons and Haynes manuals I have the colors just don't match up. I think that one plug that is not either of the two FI relay plug is a major Ignition connector? Some have it as the switched and non switched 12 volt source but MY colors don't match up? Thanks, Greg

I disconnected the complete FI wiring harness on my 76 280Z yesterday from the engine. I removed the ECU and disconnected the 2 FI relay plugs under the dash and found 2 more connections, 1. is a 6 connector plug (C12 type I think) with only 4 wires attached, Leaving the connector are the following colored wires: White with a Red stripe Black with a White stripe Black with a Vellow stripe Green with a Blue stripe On the mating connector comng from the FI harness are 2 White and 2 blue wires. I think I need to use these connections, what are they for anybody know? I tried to find them in the Hayes manual and seem to think they are the connector shown on the very bottom right corner of the page 1 diagram but My manual has it as 2 green and 2 white wires?? I tried to find the mate on page 2 but couldn't find any 6 contact connector with those colored wires coming out of it. 2. Is a single clip connector with a Blue wire, the mating connector from the FI harness is a White wire. Again I think this is the single connector shown on page 1 in the bottom right hand corner of the diagram but couldn't find it's mate on page 2? Besides loosing my eyesight and using a huge magnifier, some of the text especially wire colors is not readible on the Hayes manual. Anybody have a real color wiring diagram of a 76 280Z that is readable? One last question: Will the connectors fit through the hole in the firewall? It must I would think as they did not terminate the harness in the car when it was built did they? Any tricks to stuffing it back out through the hole, I am assuming that it is pulled back into the engine bay. So gently cut and remove the glued on grommet on the firewall and pull/stuff the FI harness, connector, and relay connectors back through the hole?? this will fit?? I don't want to cut the FI harness If I don't have to. I'll start on the other side wiring harness later this week, I am sure I will have questions there as I know I have to un tape this one. Thanks, Greg

Thanks, for the response, I am getting a quote to have both your mount with my modifications and the rear diff mount made as well. The two end pieces I will have made out of "U" channel of the same size as your box, weld the bolt plates to it and then cut and grind to match the floor contour and mate up to the sub frame rails which are already beffier than stock. Onec it is all fitted I will weld to the sub frame AND the floor. Either way I believe it is much stronger than bolting a stamped piece of flat stock through the floor! I will post pics once the pieces are built. Thanks, Greg

Inquiring minds would like to know...Please share the pic with the rest of us. Thanks, Greg

So it seems so far that the consensus is still after 2 years for Tuner Cat. I have two dead PC laptops at work, I might try to get one of them going I guess before I shop around for a cheap used one. Mac VS PC, don't go there! That's another forum. A Mac HD is the exact same HD as in PC's made by the same companies (Seagate, Maxtor, etc.) They fail at the same rate, Although the Mac itself last a long time. My Kids are still using a 1998 Mac G3 with current software, the HD was replaced a long time ago though. A little slow but usable for WP, email, web surfing etc. So no other programs out there worth looking into? Thanks, Greg

The most common choice I have seen on this site is Tuner Cat, the second one mentioned is LT1 Edit. Most prefer Tuner Cat it seems. In all the threads I searched for Tuner Cat, LT1 Edit, Tuner Software, etc. most are older threads ranging from 2002 to 2004 I would like to find some updated info or possibly any other choices I am not aware of. I see the Hypertech and other stuff on Ebay and don't think they are that beneficial to a HybridZ project with their Yes/No programming. Scanmaster looks like a monitoring system only. I do not have a laptop or a PC for that matter I am Macintosh user. I do plan on buying a new Intel powered Mac soon and can boot up in Windoze easily as long as I buy a copy of Windoze XP. I also saw the posts for Freescan and Andy's website and his cables for sale. Any of this stuff ever sold on Ebay? I did a search for Tuner Cat but got nothing. Just trying to get all the little stuff together now as the swap is just getting started. Looking for opinions and advice Thanks, Greg

73LT1Z, what a great thread! I am just getting underway with my 76 280Z/LT1/T56 and this is the type of info I am collecting from this great site! I have copied this entire thread into my Wiring tech folder for the project. Great info! Thanks, Greg

Yes, I have digital camera in hand and plan to document the whole project, I will post in my picture gallery and in the "Projects" postings. The next group of pics will be the removal of the L6, 4 speed, Driveshaft, exhaust radiator etc. Then engine bay prep. Thanks all for the help so far. Just getting started, Excited! Greg

Thanks everyone for clearing up the mystery. I will cut the ears off, gring the prongs, and make my own right angle Molex connector. I won't be separating the bell housing from the transmission. I think this covers it all, I don't want to have to pull the engine and transmission in and out too many times. Thanks, Greg

78 ZLT1, Nice work!, But I was afraid you would say that. Do you think if I made the two side pieces out of U channel, welded a plate on one end of the channel and drilled the bolt holes into the plate for the crossmember to bolt and then ground down the U channel to match the contour of the floor and then welded it to the subframe and the floor it would be strong enough? Just like your underside picture but not cut through the floor. I am a little noid of cutting the floor. Thanks, Greg

Thanks 1 Tuff Z, I thought I could get away with keeping the band but wanted to double check with somebody that has been there and done that. I might grind down the prongs on the tranny before I install, The less time under the car swinging a BFH the better as I see it. It is a bit harder for us old farts to be laying on our bad backs swinging a BFH, the fewer trips I have to crawl under the car the better! Thanks, Greg

78zLt1 Thank you! I will have these made up but a little longer so I can cut/grind to fit and then weld into place. I am not sure what my frame rails are because they were done over by a previous owner, they are not Baddog rail caps but definately were welded over the original frame rails and run completely front to back from the TC rod cups to the end of the frame rail. They are much taller/wider than stock so that is good. I plan to continue the rails up the back slope and tie them into the rear sub frame assembly. One last question, you did grind them to follow the contour of the floor and then welded them to the floor and frame rail , they are not cut through the floor correct? Again thank you for the pdf file, I feel much better knowing I am going to have your custom mount inplace of a piece of flatstock bolted to the floor pan. Greg

Thanks Guys, I was not sure, I think I am reading too much and need to pull the motor and trans out and get started on it! Do you have pictures of your tunnel mods? So you left the band that goes around the top of the tunnel? I would like to leave that tunnel reinforcement in if possible. Thanks, Greg

Hi I have the JTR book and it says to remove the old transmission mounts, I also did an extensive search and it seems most of the T56 installs have been into a 240Z tunnel, I know the 280Z has more rom and was wondering if you all removed the old mounts as well. This post got me wondering: Originally Posted by speedmon David, Thanks for the picture......that is so cool, the way that fits right in. Did you have to make any changes to your trans tunnel or did it slide right in? On 1 Tuff Z's album, which is almost an illustrated step by step guide, he removes the crossmember ears......is that what is referred to as the trans tunnel mod? Different year 240's have different style ears for the trans mount. I did remove the trans mount ears but after fitting the trans they may not have needed to be removed. We did need to do a little pounding in a few areas to gain some clearance. __________________ ENJOY THE RIDE! David 72 240Z Code name:Silver Bullet 2002 LS1, w/ 6 speed 2540 pounds 317RWHP/365RW TORQUE Last edited by qwik240z : 02-28-2006 at 07:36 AM. So those of you who have a T56 in a 280Z body how much tunnel massaging did you have to do? Remove the monts completly flush with the tunnel walls? Can you leave the band that goes around the top? Where in what locations did you find you have to do some clearancing with a BFH or was there really a need to? I will probably end up with an LT1 or a Stroker motor since my LS1 deal feel through. (Long story I will post elsewhere) Thanks, Greg