gvincent

I searched for a picture of a R200 LSD to try and match this picture up but all showed the inside only or the links were dead. The Ebay add says it's a LSD from an 86 turbo, I thought through my searching that they were only available on the April 1987-1989 turbo models only making this one too early. I also thought they were all finned rear covers. They give the following description: Factory Original R200 Limited Slip Differential Assembly, Part # 38311-P9000 Vehicle Part Was Removed From: 1986 Nissan 300ZX Turbo, 131K miles, turbocharged VG30T 3.0L SOHC V6, 5-speed, LSD May Fit Z31 300 ZX Turbo, GL, GLL, 50th Anniversary Edition (AE), Special Edition (SS, Shiro Special), 2 Seater & 2+2 from 1984 84 1985 85 1986 86 1987 87 1988 88 1989 89 Please note, these years & models refer to the years that they used a specific body style or shared common parts, but doesn’t necessarily mean it will work on every year or model noted. These are pictures of the actual part(s) you are bidding on, & above is an exact description of the vehicle the part came from, but it is the buyers responsibility to research what came on what years & models to make sure it will fit your specific vehicle. We are not responsible if the part does not fit, so please research it before you bid if there is a question of fitment. We will do our best to answer questions on this, but even though we live & breathe cars, we are not an encyclopedia on every part in existence. We don’t just specialize in one make of vehicle, we try to cover a very wide array of rare import & domestic vehicle parts, which makes it difficult to be an expert on all of them. What do you guys think it might be real by some slim chance

If you can swing it a lot of people I know stay in New England 9-10 months a year and fly south for the winter. I myself can't afford to do that yet with kids approaching college, so I do get antsy for warmer weather about this time of year but have to wait another month and a half maybe. I have debated this for years as well and now I am thinking where I want to go when I retire, I want warm but not too hot, near an ocean, and not flat, I need hills and windy roads too, some beautiful scenery and maybe toss in some lakes for boating () Oh and did I mention affordable?? Does such a place exist? At one time the Cental coast of CA was affordable, not anymore((

Hey John, Congratulations to your wife, I guess you don't miss Agoura? As you know I grew up there but would never go back, It was the right place at the right time. I have lived all over CA and lived in Hawaii for 7 years. I have lived in New England in MA just south of Boston near RI for the last 20 years and love it, I am in the country with 2 acres of land in a 3000sq ft 2 story colonial home with a finished basement and a 2 car garage that I had built 7 years ago for under 270K, It is now worth 470K. Yeah it snows and gets cold but the New England country is beautiful and worth it, the beach is a half hour away as well and I am on a lake. Heat the garage and you can tinker on your Z all winter long, NHIS is only a little over an hour away and Limerock ain't that far either. I admit I love parts of Washington and Oregon also, I just don't know if I can take all the rain. Take your time and you and your wife will find your happy resting spot. Greg

Been there done that... Ever see the movie "The Money Pit" (2 weeks!) I restored a 1750 era Cape style house, it was my first house and the plan was to stay there 7 years and sell it. Well it took 14 years! But the sweat equity and improvements gave me the cash to have a new house built 7 years ago. My mantra was "One room at a time" Don't start another room until you are finished with the one your working on or you will get caught up in the "Mr. 80 Percent syndrone, were you never finish one room and have so many rooms in different states of construction that you get discouraged. Good luck and always put time aside to relax and work on the Z () Greg

I wouldn't be too quick to toss that injector/fuel rail cooler. I would keep it around if your going to beef up that L6. I have one of those fans in my 78 280Z and it definately did come on sitting in traffic during the summer with the AC on. This is in Boston MA with temps outside in the low to mid 90's. My 280Z has had a lot of head work done, a custom healthy cam grind, 6-1 headers and bigger injectors and throttle body. So keep it around, it may come in handy some day. Greg

I don't know if it looks right... it seems all two tones look good with the BRE stripes going down the side of the front fender, kind of breaks it up a little more???

I removed the FI wiring harness and ECU from my 76 280Z, what worries me was the fuseable links that came with it and if I need to wire anything into the now disconnected plugs or am I good to go by just having removed the harness? Attached are pictures of the plugs under the drivers side dashboard, I identified two as the FI relay which I am assuming I can remove this relay assembly as well. The other two plugs I am not sure of, do I need to run any new wires to these plugs? I think I might of identified these plugs as an ignition plug in the wiring diagram, this is what I found so far: The White/Red wire on the plug shown used to mate to the Blue #73 wire from the FI harness The Black/Yellow wire on the plug shown used to mate to the White #76 wire from the FI harness The Black/White wire on the plug shown used to mate mated to the White #71 wire from the FI harness The Blue/Green wire on the plug shown used to mate to the Blue #74 wire from the FI harness The 4th picture show the single connector from the FI harness with the White #1 wire mating to a Blue wire. These wire colors do not mate with my wiring diagram?? does it mate with any diagrams that anybody else has? Thanks, Greg

Well it seems it is now: 2 for Fix and sell 2 for Pull and part out 1 for either way Well I bought it and it runs great!, Weird wiper problem though, the wipers park in the up position no matter what I do. Must be something simple.... From what I have researched on this site the LT1 T-56 will bolt up to any 1986 or newer Gen 1 SBC just use the LT1 flywheel for One piece rear main seals. For all other Gen SBC pre 1986 with two piece rear main seals I could not find a clear cut answer but will be doing research on this as I want to bolt my Stroker motor to the LT1 T-56 trans, I don't know if I have a one piece or two piece rear seal block yet but I am assuming it must be a two piece if it is a stroker with a 400 crank?? I need to but a balanced flywheel for the stroker that will take an LT1 clutch and pressure plate????? ANything else?? AFAIK The 1998-2002 LS1 T-56 will not bolt up to a Gen 1 SBC the bellhousing needs an adaptor plate or an LT1 bell housing or a Weir Products kit because the input shaft is longer. Thanks, Greg

Hi Clive, Yeah everybody on this site has been great, I am a "newbie" to the Hybrid part of Z but have owned a Z car since 1982. As you know I too am about to actually start "wrenching" my HybridZ project car and have and will post a lot more questions than answers. Sorry for posting un-related to this thread. Anyway the "Howard" VS the "Alfred" thing is something that happens a little to often when your 54 years old Greg

I met Clive here at HybridZ and then in person in CT with his Uncle, we were looking at a totaled 98 LS1 Camaro that he was kind enough to offer to me first. We spent most of the day there getting it started and putting it onto a U-haul trailer. I admired his drive and determination and was impressed with his ability to handle the many things going on in his life at the time. I wished he lived nearby and could spend some time hanging out with my son, maybe a little inspiration would rub off on him () Yes he is definately a wheeler and dealer but an honest one. Greg

Holy S$%T Clive! I think you ought to change your Major at Howard! You definately have a knack for finding and creating great deals! You have to be one of the most motivated, talented, knowledgeable, hard working young person I have had the priveledge of meeting in a long time, It is young men like you that have renewed my trust in the younger generation of today to carry our country into the future. You remind me of myself when I was your age! Greg

Thanks, SO that is 1 vote to fix and keep/sell it, and 2 votes to pull/part it out so far. (And 2 votes to pull the internals out of the 383 stroker and put into the LT1 motor) MAN I wish it wasn't so F@#$ing cold out right now (5 degrees this AM) so I can start pulling the motor out of the Z and the Trans Am!!! I have to get my son to get rid of his truck carcass out of here so I can set up the tent/garage and put my other Z in it to make room in the Garage to put the Trans Am in to pull the motor out. Now where am I going to park the Formula??? Wife is not happy with all these "temporary" my word, "junk" her word, vehicles laying around. Any more votes??? Thanks, Greg

There really isn't much damage, all that's needed is a new bumber assembly, a fender and a windshield. The headlight buckets work fine. There is some rodent damage to the headliner and possibly the heater vents and ducts. It is owned by a 27 year old girl who smacked it 2 years ago and is scared to death of it and won't drive it. It has sat at Daddy's house for the last 2 years and now she want's it gone. I need a T56 trans for my Stroker, Should I fix and sell it and then by a tranny or Pull all I want and part it out? What would everybody do here????

WOW! Grumpy, That is a fast moving Caddy! Maybe you should think about designing and selling Big Block install kits to the HybridZ community??? Greg

Well I bought a 88 Trans Am with a 383 stroker motor in it, it runs great the transmission has a leaking front seal but I don't want it anyway it is an automatic. It was a steal at $700, it sat for 2 years but I got it started and the engine sounds great but won't idle below 2000-1800 RPM and as soon as I put it in gear it stalls so I had to two foot it to move it onto and off the trailer. So it looks like I am going Stroker!

Thanks, But I know it's a little more complicated on the SB1 If it is Pre or Post 1986 One piece or 2 piece rear main seal, and then throw in that it is a stroker with a 400 crank. I know the LT1 bolts up fine, it is coming in the 95 Firebird with the T56, It is the 383 stroker motor that I am not sure about. I have searched and am more confused that when I started. I know about Weir products and such from searches, but I have to determine what block I have and verify that it is a one piece rear seal with a 400 crank or a 2 piece rear seal with a 400 crank, I am hoping I can bolt up to the T56 with just buying a new balanced flywheel for the stroker motor and bolt the LT1 clutch and pressure plate on it and go. But I am not sure and I think I have to verify what I have first before I can get the right answers? Does this makes sense to everyone? Thanks, Greg

I am the founder and part Owner/Princpal of a Design/engineering consulting firm. We specialize in the design of Audio, Video, IT, RF, etc. systems for Facilities. Our Markets are : Broadcast, Education, Hospitality, Government, Hospitals, Corporate, As well as Convention Centers, Stadiums and Arenas, Performing Arts facilities, Storage networks, Streaming and conferencing systems etc. http://www.cdaconsultants.com Been in business now for 14 years Greg

The "coil" in a HEI distributor is in the Cap top. There is an insulator rubber piece and a spring and center pin conductor that has to touch the rotor, the pin should move up and down with the spring. Remove the top of the distributor cap and check that the rubber insulator is there and that the spring and pin move up and down easily. Some electrical gel is usually used to coat the insulator. Greg

I have a chance to buy a 95 Formula with 76K miles with a T56, I just bought a steal of a deal on a 88 Trans AM with a 383 stroker motor in it. I can get the 95 Formula complete for $2100. I am thinking I am going to run the stroker motor with the T56, keep the stock LT1 as a back up motor along with the harness,ECU and driveshaft. I will part out the est of the Firebird which needs a front bumper, passenger side fender and windshield, the driver hit a stop sign which bent over and cracked the windshield. the car runs great but the interior show it's age, it has nice wheels though. Everything worrks except the A/C which I am told needs a charge. Looking at the prices for T56 transmissions currently running for about 1000-1600 should I buy this car, keep the LT1 and part out the rest? do you think I would make at least 900-1000 back? Will my stroker bolt up to the T56 if I buy a 400/Stroker flywheel and use the LT1 clutch and pressure plate? Thanks, Greg

What about side pipes, there is no way you can "X" or "H" them so they are considered a true dual correct? so performance wise they are similar to the T-bucket exhaust Grumpy mentions above and not producing all the potential power a dual with an "X" pipe would, but I love the sound and look of them though. Thanks, Greg

Well I bought it yesterday for $700! 88 Firebird Trans Am in decent condition, The motor runs nice but I could not get it to idle below 2000 RPM the car has not bee run in 2 years, the choke on the Holley 750 is wired open so it was hard to get it going when it was 22 degress outside. Once warmed up it ran nicely above 2000 rpm. I drove it off the U-Haul trailer last night. It stalls when you put it in gear and you have to keep one foot on the gas a little and one foot on the brake to kep it from stalling, Spins the tires very easily! The Engine bay wiring is a mess, they really cut up the old 305V8 fuel injected harness. The A/C is gone, the fuel injection fuel tank return lines have been pinched shut and I am guessing ther was a charcoal cannister at one time. The engine is wired in with just the mimimum of wires. The two fans are wired to a on/off switch in the dash. The oil pressure was reading 80Lbs, it has a Moroso 7 quart oil pan. I will post pics soon, it is 10 degrees and windy outside this morning. Looks like another Stroker Z on the way, Now I need to find that T56 and mate it to the stroker. I have to find out if it is a one piece (post 86) or 2 piece seal(pre 86) block as soon as I can see if I can get the casting number off the block. Thanks, Greg

I'm going to have to wing it, I don't think the owner will let me remove his rockers and put transmission fluid into his engine but that is some great information that I will use if I do buy this motor. In the meantime I found these photos on Ebay, I think you can see the indentation on the damper ring that JT1 is talking about. Thanks Grumpy and JT1,