GrayZee

Sorry guys, I did do about 5 searches but I can't find what I'm looking for. Does anyone remeber a post with a pic of a ultra-cheezy riced out 240sx? It had wings and fake dual exhaust. I remember alot of people posted to make fun of it!

this is according to the chilton repair manual: 70-74: 60 liter (15.8 gallon) 75-78: 65 liter (17.25 gallon) 79-83: 80 liter (21.1 gallon) 84-88: 72 liter (19 gallon)

Stock psi is supposed to be 7psi, although it's been said that the stock boost gauge isn't very acurate. I've got a autometer mechanical gauge (the stock one uses a electric one from a vac/boost sensor that coverts the signal to electric from manifold pressure) My autometer gauge always reads 7psi under full boost (for now, until I raise the pressure ) I believe the general opinion around here is that 9psi is aceptable without a intercooler however watch out that you aren't simply blowing off your safefy relief valve because it'll blow off your excess pressure at about 9 or 10psi.

Oh, ok.. for some reason I thought that you were trying to fire up a new/different engine for the first time..

Having good fuel pressure is one thing, but I've heard the tale many times of injectors being seized up from sitting. (it happened to me too) The solution to that problem is to remove the injectors and use a small nail, toothpick, paperclip, ect, and poke the injector needle to free it up. Usually the injectors will work after this.. I'm not saying that this IS the problem for your car but something to consider. If you want to find out for sure take off one of the large hoses off of the intake manifold and get a propane torch. Stick the torch tip inside the hose and let the propane flow into the manifold for a minute or so.. (it actually takes a fair bit of propane) Once there is propane in the engine turn the engine over and it "should" sputter and fire a bit. Of course not enuf for it to start but if you hear some firing going on where there was none before.. you'll know it's a fuel problem.

Yes engines that came with a auto trans did have a spacer. You have to pull it off. Well you are there I hope you also realise that you have to install a "pilot bushing" in the crankshaft. The pilot bushing holds the tip on the transmission input shaft steady. Go to any local parts store to get one. It's just a small brass bushing that can me bought for like $1 or so.

the LR fuel pump relay wire is the signal from the ECU to trigger the relay (it is a + signal) therefore the relay has to have a ground on the appropriate terminal. That takes care of the "trigger or low current" part of the relay.. The "high current" part of the relay needs + input from the battery (with a fuse) the output terminal to to the + of the fuel pump, ground your fuel pump (better yet run a wire right to the - of the battery) and you're set! Just make sure you use some good wire for your fuel pump! Also both of those wires on plug 1 are supposed to have fusible links (I just used inline fuses) In Plug 2 you'll notice that there are two YW wires... you are only concerned with the one between the empty terminal and the Y wire I'll also try to give you a more detailed rundown of these wires... Plug2 Y start signal (start terminal of ignition switch) GL (not nessasary) YW speed sensor (not nessasary) Y A/C (not nessasary) YW coil- (make sure it's the ignitor and not the coil itself) B (not nessesary unless you really wanna use the modulator) Plug3 LG (explained above) G +for air regulator (just run that to ignition+) W not used Y not used BW ignition + You'll also have to run a wire from ignition to the + of the coil ignitor and if you still have the wiring that ran to the stock coil attatch the old -coil wire to the -of the new coil (not the ignitor) If I remember right the wire is blue (this SHOULD power up your tach, it worked on my 280z but I think the early 240 tachs have a more screwy setup) Hope this helps and good luck!

Yeah that's identical to Drax's post.. (guess I know now where he got it from) I was thinking.. this question gets asked OVER and OVER again.. when I put mine together I didn't have a digital camera, but now that I do I think when it gets nicer outside I'll pull the car out and take a few pics of the wiring connections for all you guys..

I've done this wiring swap, it's quite easy. If you all you need is the wiring codes to point you in the right direction (meaning you understand a little about automotive wiring) then go to Drax's sticky post called: the ultimate beginner's guide. Scroll down a ways and you'll find he wrote in the wire color codes and their purpose. If you need a more detailed explaination send me a email, tell me where you stand on electrical knowhow and I'll try and explain it in detail for you.

You say a fuel pump designed for use with a Chevy V8 isn't enough to feed a turbo'd L28? What if it was a pump for a Chevy SS 454 V8?

I had a idea to replace the old rusty fuel tank with a custom made new tank, but with a high performance option. I thought why not make it with a flange on top of the tank to accomodate a in tank fuel pump? I asked some questions at the local parts store for a suitable pump. I wanted a pump with these features.. readily available anywhere cheap! able to feed a high HP engine I came up with a pump from a mid 90's chevy pickup fuel pump, and as a added bonus I found out that those pumps have a built in fuel level sending unit. I did plan on getting one of those autometer fuel level gauges (the ones with the ford ohm rating) to match the rest of my gauges. The ohm rating is close to the nissan sending unit but it isn't the same. So if I were to use this chevy pump idea, I would just buy the autometer gauge designed for chevys (perfect match!) This tank is still in the pre-design stage but I have a buddy that has the ability to make some dies and press out new tanks. Problem is that unless there are several people interested it wouldn't be worth his time to fabricate the dies. I've got a extra tank that I'm gonna show him this weekend. We'll have a look at designing a new tank, but in the meantime I'd like to get some input from you guys what you think of this idea and if anybody would be interested? Also if anyone has some views on a more suitable fuel pump I'm open to ideas. I have no idea what the gallon/min rating of the chevy pump is(anyone know?) but I'm sure it'll feed a modestly hybrid'ed Zcar.

I've had my car off the road since Aug 2001 and I just wanted to tell everyone that I finally got the car finished! Two years is a long time, and I really didn't have too many problems with the swap really. Just the fact that I refused to do any work to the car in the winter and taking EVERYTHING out of the engine bay to be able to paint under there kinda took up some time, not to mention the insurance claim to fix the front corner cuz someone cut me off.. The swap was easy and I'm really happy with the improvement to my car. That L28 NA just didn't have any snuff at all compared to this L28t! I also wanna thank everyone out there that shared all their little tricks and info on modifing their Z Wooo hoo! now I'm gonna go out and burn some rubber tonight!

I'm trying to do a engine swap (not a Z but a ford van) I pulled out the blown 351w engine and wanna drop in a 460. I wanted to get my hands on a van with a 460 so I could just transplant all the parts but I wasn't able to find one. Instead I got a smokin deal on a 460 out of a Grand Marquis. Now I just gotta fabricate some mounts right? No, turns out I need a different oil pan too.. (one with a sump at the rear) After having no luck finding one in the wrecking yards I decided to phone the ford dealer.. (this is always my last resort but sometimes the prices of old obsolete parts are quite resonable, SOMETIMES anyway.) I asked for a oil pan from a van with a 460.. and I get the classic question.. "what year" Seeing the I wasn't sure what year they made vans with 460's I decided to tell him it was actually a engine swap and didn't know the year "any old mid 70's van should do" To any of us Hybiders it's logical to think that if ford built a van with a 460 then there should somehow somewhere be the correct collection of parts to do the job and make it fit, right? Instead I get a 5 minute lecture on well, if it didn't come with a 460 then it probably won't work.. ect ect... This is why I hate dealing with guys at the dealership, if the vehicle is more than 5 years old they have no idea how to deal with anything!

Cast iron is extremely resistant to corrosion

Sure! just like they did in the movie (Blues Brothers 2000) after a while you'll get sick of us Hybrid Z members showing up "oh no, there goes another insurance claim!" Ha ha ha.. anyway, best of luck in Mexico!

My buddy has a Viper and he did the same thing. (one hand on the wheel, one on the camera) He took a pic of the speedo reading 320kph!!

Come to think of it, I have the whole car (84 Maxima) it's a insurance write off. So if you're stuck for a way of controlling the lock up, I could just sell you the tranny, ECU, and the injection harness. I'm sure there isn't that much difference in the injection system from your ZX

The late 83 and 84 Maximas' did have a 4spd auto (with about a .6 to 1 ratio in 4th. It should bolt right into a zx without a hitch, however the lockup torque converter is controlled by the engine computer so you would have to work out another way of controlling the lockup. I have one that I could sell you, email me if interested.

I tried firing up my conversion and it appears that my injectors are toast. (probably has something to do with them sitting for 5 years?) Anyway, my buddy has a injector bench testing center and I'm gonna test them out tomorrow. Can someone please tell me the specs on which the stock turbo injectors should be flowing at?

I said in the last post that I sent a email to "one of our members" I didn't use the name, because honestly I couldn't remember yours unless I went back and looked for it. So, having said that.. Why would you want another copy?

ha ha ha... I've never tried to phone them but I have emailed them, and I got the same response as you... NONE! I wonder why they bother to pay for upkeep of a website?

Here is how I dealt with those issues in my car.. 1st problem: I went to a place that custom makes hydraulic hoses, they had all the fittings to make any configuration of hose you want, for oil, AC line, brake lines, ect. I got a real nice set of custom lines for about $75CND I drilled two holes in the bottom of the rad cradle and mounted the oil cooler in front of the the rad with the original cooler mounting bracket. (I had to cut the upper bracket off the cooler with a hacksaw though) I'm not 100% sure, but I think if you just block off the oil lines, you'll be getting NO oil to your engine 3rd problem: look carfully at the stock afm mount, you should be able to see the "dimples" left from the spot welds. Go and buy yourself some TITANIUM tipped drill bits and drill out the welds and then chisel them off.. it's really not that hard, but don't bother with regualar steel drill bits as you'll just dull them out before you even get a hole started. Then you can make a new bracket to hold the afm. Or, you can do what I did... get your hands on a air intake tube off of a 85 or so N/A 300zx it'll slide through the hole in the rad cradle and connect up to the stock turbo air boot perfectly! (it looks as if it was made for it) Then you can mount the afm and air filter in front of the rad. Bear in mind this might be kinda pointless if you plan on running a intercooler right away. 5th problem: The hydaudralic shop that I went to had ooddles and ooddles of fittings metric and npt and even converter fittings That is where I got npt to metric converter fittings to connect my autometer boost and oil pressure gauges. 6th problem: wiring is of course the biggest headache of them all, I recently sent a email to one of our members describing exactly how to wire up the turbo injection harness to the main wiring harness. It was very long and don't care to repeat it right now, but if you email me a request, I'll see if I still have a copy in my outbox and I'll send it to you.

http://users.bentonrea.com/~strausz/zcar/eccs_diagram.gif

if you wanted to take a road trip to Winnipeg, my buddy has got a complete running driving 75 280z that is in quite good shape overall that he would probable part with for about $1500

I don't have a clue about the prices of quarter panels, You'll have to go to your local Nissan dealer and ask for yourself. However I can tell you that Victoria wants $150USD for a front fender. I ordered two of them and by the time I paid the exchange rate, shipping, taxes, and fuel to drive to the border and pick them up it cost me about $700(Winnipeg is only a hour or so from the border and there was a broker about 5min down the road from the border that charged me $10 for allowing me to use him as a middle man) You wanna avoid using UPS because they will tack on crazy brokerage fees just to bring a package over the border. My bodyman cursed those fenders cuz they didn't exactly fit very good and ended up playing about with them for a couple days just to get them to fit properly. I would have bought them from Nissan but when I went down there they told me that those items were obsolete and couldn't be ordered. However a year later I had a accident with the car and my insurance company was giving me a hard time and wanted to write the car off. I went to the dealer to get some price quotes just so that I could get some hypothetical figures to give the insurance company on repairing my car. Well turns out they say that these parts ARE available. Apparantly Nissan got a better computer and part numbering system and now they could actually track these parts down. Or so that is the story they told me anyway.. I don't remember exactly what the price was now but I know that is was more than $150CND but is was considerably lower than the $350 that I had to fork out for one made in Taiwan fender that never fit properly, where as the OEM Nissan fender fits beautifully. Ordering a part like that from the dealer could take quite a while though as the part would likely come from Japan. Pehaps a month or more? Check with the dealer first but here's a link you might also wanna try http://www.showcars-bodyparts.com/240z.html I've never dealt with these guys but one very good thing about them is that they are in Canada (Bolton Ontario) and for us Canucks that can save alot of Bull-Hockey! If you wanna get a price from them I suggest that you just phone them as the last time I emailed them I never did get a reply. 905-857-6345 Here is another Ontario based place to buy Z stuff: http://www.datsunzparts.com/start.htm They are known for making replacement floor and frame rails Hope some of this helps you out dude.. L8er!