Adam

If I remember correctly there are only a few places to get headers to fit these heads. However, I do think that I used a set of summit block huggers when I build the 347 with gt40 heads, the spark plugs were a pain to get to but I recall them working. I bought aluminum heads shortly after.... it been a long time ago though. I would recommend try summit racing I am almost positive that's the ones that I used. Adam

another thing is set it to 15 degrees, with no more than a total of 30(after the advance)

I ran into some of these problems when doing mine as well, I ended pushing my engine back further into the firewall. I had to make dents with a hammer but the outcome of this was great. I was able to put the whole engine behind the front cross member, thus improving traction dramatically. This also allowed me to put the engine lower in the car, lower center of gravity. I used to run a 347 but am building a 408 turbo for it now. It is extremely easy to make engine mounts, for traction and trans position push the engine back into the fire wall as far as you can. Adam

Well got it all done a month ago, sorry late on the info. and I drove it all the way from Fl to San Diego, Ca. Unfortunatly job hunting is not going quite so well so it might be making another cross country trip, lol. I will post up some pics as soon as I get my hands on a camera.

Mine does the samething however I have a r180 it maybe different.

1971 240z it was my first car as well. First built 2.4, then next built a 2.8 and finally a 302 stroker (347) backed by a viper tranny. Paint and body underconstruction, lol.

I am going to run 225 50's bfg's on mine, but I have a 240z.

Well for starters just to be honest a t-5 tranny is garbage (and I was born and raised ford) if you are wanting to get above 300hp a just won't hold it. And it is a 10 spline if it mounts to a 5.0 liter but you could go with a newer tranny to get different splines.

you can use tin roofing deadener, you can pic up a whole roll of it from a local hardwear store for like $20 and it works pretty well.

Here, this should be the yoke you need FMS-M-4841-B. If my memory serves me correct that a t-5 tranny uses a 28 spline.

I like the crease to me it shows character in the car and makes it look more classic, just my two cents.

The u-joint that you need is a 1310, I believe and I would get PCN-369 because I like to have the grease zerk. Someone correct me if I am wrong, as for the diff mount being to harsh, I dont have a problem with it, and I drive mine all the time.

I wanted those as well but I could not ever find them in the right off-set

You will have to measure the u-joint to see what size you have and as to the diff mount I am using a soild one but others responses may very.

Thanks for the input, I guess I will buy a few more pieces and draw it out for the people. I ordered the flang btw. As for the centerforce clutch I have always heard good things about them, and they have a high hp rating. Would you suggest somthing different?

It went in ok had to moddify the trans just a little because of lack of clearence, never an issue with our cars lol. However I am now having a tuff time getting a drive shaft made for it. The problem is that the yoke diameter is really large compaired to our small tail shaft flange. Other than that I used the same stuff I had for the t-5. Do any of you know of anyone who makes new rearend flanges or adapters to go from datsun to ford? Oh I will try to post some pics up soon.

The more advanced the timing the more hp in higher rpms and the less in lower rpms. If you advance it to far it will hurt your low end tourque and cause pinging as stated above.

engine- -347 stroker kit (forged) -dome top eye brow pistons -Eldebrock 6 inch high rise, rpm preformer intake -lunani roller cam (dont remember specs) -aluminum heads -scorpion roller rockers -double wound valve springs -carbon molloy push rods -custom mac 351 long tube headers (needed these for more flow) -full exaust with x pipe and borla mufflers -demon 850 double pumper, or a 600 holly vac secondarys (for mpg) -crome valve covers -A new little toy that wines (on the way) -center force (second one) car- -upgraded sway bar (front and rear) -urithane bushings -motorsport airdam and sideskirts -window tint -eagle alloyd wheels (the sport max 002 on the way) -shaved bumpers I am currently installing a t-56 in my car and installing a dual friction centerforce clutch and hoping it will hold for a little while.

Set it at 12 btdc idling about 650 to 700rpms, and install the 160 thermo. You may also want to get-barrow an adjustable timing light and make shure that the advance on the timing does not go to far not past 36.

The timing should be between 10 to 12 btdc for a stock engine, but it would help a lot to know if it is fuel injection or carb. Loss of low end torque can and usually is you timing being to far advanced, this can also make you car run hotter. Also your total advance after 3000rpms should not exceed 36 degees, anymore will result in problems. As to therm. for a carb engine like mine I run a 160, but for a fuel injection set up run a 180 or 190 therm.

how do you get yours to hook mine spins all the way up till about 60-70mph it doesnt matter at what speed below 60 you hit it it will break lose. No dought the car is still hauling butt, but I cant keep mine from spinning. What size tires are you guys running, rims, etc.? I still have the r180 rear end in mine so maybe its the gears?

Which cam do you have, the one for the ho or for the later models. Also is it a roller cam or non roller.