trwebb26

Sounds too me that your input from the optical dizzy is wired wrong in the megasquirt. Read this thread and my troubles: http://forums.hybridz.org/showthread.php?t=115390&page=2 Read this http://www.msextra.com/manuals/MS_Extra_Ignition_Hardware_Manual.htm#hall and verify that your megasquirt board is wired for a "high to low" input signal from the optical dizzy.

I'm not familiar with your TPS setting proceedure. I just "get current" when the throttle is closed... put my foot on the go-pedal and hold it here - and then "get current" for the open throttle position. The way to check your throttle position is to turn on that guage in the megatune window. It ought to read 0% with your foot off of the gas and 100% with it floored. Once you get this right - we'll talk more about your ignition problem.

When my megasquirt did this - there was a brake sensor relay thinger (bolted to the frame under the passenger seat) that was failed and was back feeding voltage (less than 9 volts) into the fuse panel into the megasquirt... it was enough juice to keep the megasquirt running. The correct way to troubleshoot this is to isolate which fuse in your fuse panel the megasquirt is hooked up to and leave it there. Start pulling the other fuses hooked up to that same circuit. If you pull the fuse and the car keeps running - put the fuse back in and try the next one. If the car shuts off - there is something on that circuit that is back-feeding voltage to the megasquirt.

Where can you source a new "crate" DET motor in the states? Where is a good website to read about the power potential of the stock SR motor? Anybody else got a line on a place where I could buy a built one?

I'm doing some research and have figured out that IF I go with an SR20 motor for my 280 - I'll likely choose an S14 and get it built. I know there HAS to be a ton of shops that sell built motors - but I can't seem to find one online. Can anybody help me? If you don't know of a shop... what would it cost me to get an SR20 "bulletproofed" (+400 HP). Thanks!

All things to consider - like what kind of suspension would go best on a big truck Did you ever buy an actual metal chop saw? Last time I remember you had a wood saw with a metal cutting blade in it? Have you tried using your bench grinder to square it up? I made a little table on the outboard side of mine with a squared edge. Worked great for getting a square edge on my alternator bracket conversion (GM 1-wire).

z-ya: But if you put the car in WOT - the IAT number doesn't go down very much. I doubt there is enough convection taking place in the sub-1-second time that it takes for the air to go from the air filter into the head for the temperature to rise from 40 degrees F to 120 degrees F. By no means am I saying you are wrong. I just want to make sure I fully understand what is going on by asking questions.

Which ones? They are all a little different. The majority are rocker switches - and they push from inside the dash to the inside of the car with little plastic grabber deals (part of the switch). You push them together and the switch will slide toward the cockpit of the car.

I'm using the GM open air sensor (3/8 NPT). I assume I have soak problems because it can be 30 degrees F outside and if the car sits long enough the sensor can read up to 130 degrees F. Before I start the car - the IAT and CLT numbers are equal.

When I built my custom fiberglass dash Guages: Tach Speedo Wideband o2 Boost Oil Pressure Water Temp Fuel Level Volts (There is a liquid-filled fuel pressure guage on the Aeromotive Fuel Pressure Regulator in the engine compartment) Main Indicator Lights: Left Turn / Right Turn / Hazzards High Beam Brake Warning Light Oil Pressure Idiot Light Switches: Main Key Switch Fuel Pump On Electric Fan Headlights Interior/Guage Lights Wipers (converted to on/off) Hazzards I really ought to post pictures of my finished dash. If there is some interest - I'll hook it up.

I mounted mine in the old cold start injector hole (just behind the throttle body). I get pretty bad heat soak (especially when the car is sitting at idle for more than a few minutes). I'm thinking about trying to make a phenolic spacer for that location.

Check the resistance across the sensor. Stick it in the freezer and read the resistance. It will tell you if the sensor is good or not. If you are running "offline" - then you aren't connecting to the megasquirt at all - we need to concentrate on that problem first. Check the powers and grounds to the megasquirt and get the connectivity issue sorted out first.

Does the car have megasquirt? If not - we should move this to the general/troubleshooting forum.

Verify that spark output is set for the "fidle function" The dwell should be 50%. What is your trigger angle set at? Do you get the middle LED to turn on when you are over an opening in the DIZZY? What does the voltage of the signal wire read when this happens? What pullup resistor are you using?

Wired like this: Just pay attention to the internal board wiring stuff.

Phil, Before you close up your box... IF you are using the 83' optical dizzy with the pullup resistor - please make sure that your megasquirt is wired for a HIGH TO LOW input trigger: http://www.msextra.com/manuals/MS_Extra_Ignition_Hardware_Manual.htm#hall

What are you going to use as your spark output? If you are using the VB to drive the negative side of the coil - check this out: http://www.msextra.com/manuals/MS_Extra_Ignition_Hardware_Manual.htm#singlecoil In that case - IGN to IGBTOUT is correct.

The ones that are most common (other than Megasquirt) are haltech and SDS. You should be able to get some support for your Z should you choose to go either of these routes. There are many other systems available.

sounds like resets to me. does the reset counter at the bottom right hand side of the screen increase in value? If you are like everyone else with this problem - Magnecor wires are the solution. Try unplugging your alternator and see if things improve.

Try disconnecting your alternator and see if anything changes. It may sound crazy - but there is a method to my madness.

You first need to check to make sure that the dizzy is wired correctly (low to high or high to low). Trust me - if it is wrong you'll be troubleshooting around the root cause for a LONG time. http://www.msextra.com/manuals/MS_Extra_Ignition_Hardware_Manual.htm#hallV33 What do you have set as the trigger angle? How is the output to your ignition box wired? Is spark output set to inverted? Can you set a fixed spark (say 25 degrees) and turn the engine over? Is the timing accurate? WHAT SPARK PLUG WIRES ARE YOU USING!!!??? (Please tell me Magnecor's) It is very possible that you could have the trigger input wrong and still run fuel only. You can tweak enough variables in megasquirt to make it run. In other words - it really doesn't matter that you've had it running on fuel - spark is another HUGE set of headaches that require their own troubleshooting. Be patient and we'll get you up and running in no time.

Ok... I'm about to stow away the 78' 280z for the winter and I'm prepping for my winter project - a complete overhaul of my Z's steering, suspension, wheels/tires, & brakes. Here's what I've got so far: - A full energy suspension bushing kit - Modern Motorsports coilover kit (8" 200 & 225 SR) - New steering rack boots - New Tie rods & Ball joints - ST Front and Rear Sway bars - Modern Motorsports rear disk brake conversion kit - Modern Motorsports spacers for 4X4 front brakes - Rota-Grid 16X8 wheels - "Performance" ends for my T/C rods The things I'm missing: - New spindle pins - rebuilt brakes for my brake kits - shocks... I don't know if I'm going to section the struts, yet - front and rear wheel bearings and seals - tires for my new wheels (I think i'm going with 245 yokohamas - strut tower braces - some method to adjust camber and LCA angles (bump-steer spacers) Am I forgetting anything for my overhaul? What would you reccomend for camber adjustment. I've been looking at buying adjustable rear control arms. I'm not sure about the fronts. I'd really like to stay away from camber plates - as I've heard they are TERRIBLE noisy. Thanks!

Most of the time you can load up the msq - even with the errors... just to look things over. I would never take somebody's MSQ and try to start my car with it. Just another reason why I'm interested in JPG files.

JPG's so everybody can see - whether they have a megasquirt or not. 78' n/a stock engine w/ stock injectors running MS&SE on a v3.0 board. 12x12 spark table and 8x8 target afr maps would be great!

I finally got my megasquirt running and I need to work on my HORRIBLE tune I've got in the thing. I'm looking for some pointers on how my Target AFR & Spark Map Tables should look. Post up your MSQ - or even beter post a jpg of the maps. Thanks!