900ss

My other toy Sorry not a 3 series but me 850ci Don't use it much due to crap weather over here, but when the suns out again it will be my daily drive Goes well in a straight line lol

Our dogs, jet and sky out on the football field behind our house

It's getting that way as this is starting to drag on

Still struggling to pay I've offered to pay via my uk visa debit card, but the vendor thinks I can or could cancel the transaction afterwards? So is reluctant to take my money In the uk with a debit card I can't, as far as I know only a credit card can be cancelled afterwards Is that not the same in the us, as he has suggested otherwise ?

I've paid for the parts via paypal, so that part is fine Simple no messing I've suggested paypal to the packaging/shipping company but the vendor didn't seem to interested? It's a large amount so could be why? So it should be So if I do a bank transfer I will be charged on top? Does that apply to a visa/debit (not credit) card?

Can you guys give me some advice re payment in the usa I want to pay for some Zed parts to be shipped from the usa to the uk But what payment methods do us shops/couriers usually take? Is paypal not normally accepted, as I thought it was? Or does anyone know if us retailers take our uk/visa bank cards? Cheers

Hi I'm looking for a good pair of used doors for a 2 seater 280z Approx 1977-78 I believe Don't have to be complete as I have my own glass and winders etc But must be solid and without rot! Also need them shipped to the uk Can anyone help or know for a company in the states that supply & ship overseas? ta

Daft as it sounds all I would say would be to make sure the parts are as complete as poss i.e the engine to be complete with sensors, turbo, manifolds, starter and alt etc Aswell as the box to have its stick and switch's Will save time and money in the long run

Everyone loves a bargain My R33 RB25DET Engine, box, ecu and loom package cost under £500 from a breakers. Yes I got lucky, but then I do work there which helped

Been a while as other jobs to sort, but this is where i've got to atm The 260z stock tacho is still wired to the factory loom (no mods) It does work as the vid link below shows, but the needle dances and hops about? Does it mean my stock tacho is no good for the RB, or can it be rectified? Or is it that I need to rewire its feed ? http://smg.photobucket.com/albums/0703/900ss/260z/?action=view&current=revs1vid.flv All help appreciated as its almost ready to roll

After a repaint then deffo as a pair imo Few handy rags left over them sticky out bits will help

So 445 @ the wheels and it broke a shaft? I'd be happy with that

Drift and ... Night in a fridge will help

Keep at it m8 as its almost there This idea uses way less pipe then the stock setup so should be easier to install n finish. It also makes better use of the larger cross flow intercooler ! Apart from a few bits of pipe its there Also when fully polished it looks better to boot !

Looking good I may be wrong but shouldn't the dump valve be on the other side? ie cold side and closer to the throttle body ?

Small world I had a go at exactly the same thing today Cut n shut another part of the inlet trunk to extend the tbh away from the plenum like yours Haven't gone for a straight in feed like yours but offset Now need to get the lot bolted back on to check me angles then get it all welded up Will post some more pics when done

Cheers Pete That makes it sound easy, which is what I like Will give the 1st idea a go and see how we get on ta

Pete My cars a uk spec 1978 260z which is nearer the earlier 240z. As far as I know the UK cars only ever had carbs and points ignition. We didnt get the 280z as such so injection and electronic ignition didn't come out over here untill the later 280zx model came out. Pics always help This is the tacho I have I've used the R33 RB25DET loom as per the sticky, so have a single feed from the ecu loom to run this stock 260z tacho

Many thanks A later tach behind the Zed cluster is starting to sound the way to go. I've seen one thread using the RB tacho, but it looked involved ?

Cheers for the pointer. I cant say I’ve seen any info on using the innards from a 280zx tacho? I do have the matching R33 clock set, but didn’t want to go down that route yet Maybe im looking for to much? I was hoping that someone might be able to show how the stock 260z gauge could be wired via the RB ecu loom feed? I assume it can? Knowing very little about auto electrics doesn’t help But if I had a diagram of a sort I’m sure I could find someone near me to replicate it for me?

I've now got my 260z up and running with an R33 RB25DET engine but the tacho still needs wiring in I want to use my stock 260z tacho (was points ignition not elec) and mate it to the R33 RB25DET loom I've looked a various posts here but still cant see a deffo answer of how to wire it up? Can anyone help?

Well if I hadn't had already bought the now obsolete RB Z31 sump I would be knocking at your door The std Z31 type from Nissan cost £300 + to get it here in the uk So that tells you what a tailor made alloy sump should be worth? Sure if you get the price right they will sell

Make it look so easy why not If only ! I think you could deffo have a market there

Can anyone help me out as I need a differential pinion drive flange from a Z31 turbo Not sure what else is he same but welcome other suggestions ? I need it so I can bolt up an R33 propshaft to an R200 differential (My std R200 flange is to small as are the 4 bolt holes) Need to be able to ship to UK mainland Can pay paypal if that helps

For an RB25DET series 1 I've read the thread but see no mention of what I believe is a map sensor? Is it needed and if so can someone explain how to re-wire it in? Also I have these 2 multi plugs shown below by the large + power cable I see the large black/white goes to the starter solonoid but am unsure of the rest?