HizAndHerz

I just went through this on one of our Z's. Megasquirt is going on this NA car so I decided there wasn't any reason to go with an adjustable FPR. I fitted a GM rail-end regulator to the end of a JSK fuel rail. Cheap and clean without having to run more FI hose or a long vacuum hose.

They make up for the parts they can't get by spraying on an extra layer of paint.

I did the maxi-fuse upgrade on a couple of our 280Z's, but they haven't done well without being in an enclosed box. Lots of corrosion around the fuse blades. I've also had the fuel relays go out a couple of times so I looked into getting a box to replace all the fuse links and the relays. What I liked the best were the power distribution boxes from Dodge Neons. They have 6 maxi-fuses, 6 generic relays and 7 mini fuses. It took an hour to ring it out. Couldn't be happier with the setup, even though the "bling factor" isn't there. I'll post pics if anyone cares to see.

Personally, I don't like moving avatars or sigs. For me, they make it hard to read the posts. Partial nudity, bouncing boobs and the like makes it too difficult to read the forums at work (only during lunch break, off course ). Also, the last time my 4-yo daughter walked by, someone's bouncing breast avatar was up and she asked me "Daddy, why is that girl doing that?". I'd rather be able to read the forums without having to watch who's behind me, be it my boss or my family. Just my preference.

Phil, I've access to the spare parts in question from '70 and '71 240z's and from a '75 2+2. The soonest I can get to them is this weekend, though. It would be nice to get them back eventually, but okay if I don't. If you need them, let me know by PM. This is a great project that I would love to contribute to, if needed.

I have yet to receive my refund and I bought two of those dampers. No answer to my emails. I've filed a dispute with Ebay. Should have known better.

Read the post several and I'm confused (not unusual for me). Which lines are you guys talking about, the flexible lines from the chassis to the strut bracket or the hard lines from the strut bracket to the calipers? When I put the 4-piston calipers on my daily driver, the fittings on my old hard lines where too buggered up to re-use. My local O'Reilly's had 8" armored lines that were easy to shape for around $2 a piece. Had to use cheap rubber flex lines until I can find good SS braided flexible ones. http://www.agscompany.com/products/index.php?catId=37&viewProducts=true

Yeah, I'm in the same boat. The ebay ad does say it takes up to 4 weeks since it is a custom item that they order from the manufacturer. I won't be buying anything through a seller like that again.

Boost control is a feature of MSnS-E which only runs on the MS-I CPU. I hate that! Edit: Matt beat me to it.

My wife got me addicted to Z's. She always talked about the 280z she had in college and convinced me to buy a "project car" that me and my sons could fix up for her. After spending billions of hours working on that car and enjoying the fruits of my labor, I couldn't just hand her the keys. So, we bought another 280z for me, thus HizAndHerz. Now our family has four Z's, a garage brimming with parts, spare engines and transmissions, yadda yadda.

Not saying that this is your problem, but on two of my 280z's, leaking injectors caused what appeared to be vapor lock problems. Seemed to only happen when the car was hot. The leaks were slow enough that the cars didn't run rich, but would cause flooding of one or two cylinders after a few minutes of sitting. I pulled to fuel rail with injectors and hoses intact and sure enough, after pressurizing the system there was the occasional drop of gas from the tip of one of the injectors.

I've searched, looked at all the pictures and am confused about the different mounting options for the EDIS wheel. This sounds like an easy option but I haven't been able to find the wheel on a '90s Taurus. Is it on the back side of the crank pulley? While bolting the wheel onto the crank pulley using standoffs sounds easy, I'm concerned about how reliable it might be and if it unbalances the pulley. Thoughts? Looking at Paul's pictures, it seems he has done it two ways 1) machined the outer pulley so that the Escort wheel press fits on the front, and 2) bolted the wheel on the front without messing with the outer pulley. Maybe I'm looking at the pictures wrong. So which is the prefered way to do it? Thanks.

If the o-rings turned to mush, what happens to the internal injector seals? I've had trouble with several "rebuilt" injectors leaking making me wonder if the solvent used to clean them made the seals go bad. Just a thought.

The web site is misleading by saying the 80055 model is like the stock 70-78 damper. Both of their dampers only have one accessory belt groove.

I had a damper rebuilt by Doctor Damper for around $130. I was able to order two of the PowerForce dampers for just a little more than having a stock one rebuilt. The PowerForce models are only rated to 6500rpm, but their PowerForcePlus are rated to 10000rpm.

I was in the same boat with no decent wires and I wanted to drive my car. Like vashonz, I bought an 8-cyl MSD kit. Very happy with the set.

I've heard a couple of people say that zapping a stuck injector with 12V can sometimes cause it to unstick. I think that gently pressing the pintle is safer than zapping it with twice the voltage it was designed for, but that's just my opinion.

I just bought a set of NOS Crown rebuilt injectors and found that 2 of them had stuck pintles. I used a large paper clip to press the stuck pintles to free them up. I tested them on a little injector testing/cleaning rig I made from a bug sprayer and they tested fine. I've done the paperclip trick on other injectors and ended up bending the pintles because of how badly they were stuck. This caused spray pattern to become distorted. I can post a pic of my tester/cleaner setup if you want. Its pretty cheesy, but has allowed me to test/clean a bucket of salvaged injectors. I may write a post about my recent experiences with "rebuilt" injectors. Most of the "remanufactured" injectors were really just "reconditioned" (cleaned, painted, new external o-rings and hose clamps).

Using the E12-80 eliminates the need to mount another module. Good solution for someone whose been collecting Datsun parts for years. I've got 6 or 7 ZX dizzies in a box.

The L4N71B auto transmission also came on the Mitsubishi Starion. You'll need to keep the bell housing and flex plate from the ZX tranny. Keep the torque converter as well if it is in good shape because the Starion may have a different stall speed. Another other option might be to rebuild a L4N71B from an 82-84 Maxima or mid 1980's 200SX with a "turbo" rebuild kit. I want to do this rebuild/upgrade but am not sure if it is just as easy as ordering the correct rebuild kit. I've got a service manual for the 4N71B and haven't figured out whether if the clutch packs are the only difference between the standard and the turbo versions of the transmission. Also, try a search on this site for "4N71B or L4N71B" without quotes for more info on your tranny. I hope that helps.

I'm installing the Toyota calipers tonight and had the same question about the clips. Found pics at zhome.com: http://zhome.com/ZCMnL/tech/Calipers/brakes1.jpg [url=http://zhome.com/ZCMnL/tech/Calipers/brakes1.jpg][/url]

Are you saying the L24E engines in 1981-84 Maxima's have the rods with 9mm bolts? On a whim, I just bought a set of 9mm rods thinking I'd use them with Arizona Z Car's forged short-deck flattop pistons. Haven't made up my mind yet whether I'm going ahead with that project or going with LD28 crank or back to stock. This stuff can drive you crazy!

Lot's of V6 GM engines have the nice injector connectors. During a half-price sale at the local JY, I walked down one row of Buicks and Chevys and pulled about 40 of the quick release connectors. Cleaned the connectors and rebuilt 3 wiring harnesses with them.

On mine, I used a 3.5" cutoff wheel to take off the studs and linkage pillars and casting lines, then a 60grit flap wheel for levelling. I did very little with a die grinder. The runners were the hardest part to get smooth. To get a nice rounded surface, I made a sanding block out of split PCV pipe. Total of about 2 hours of work so far. Polishing would probably take another 2 to 3 hours. Very time consuming.

I've got 20 large boxes of parts that the previous owner of one of Z's collected. I'd love to trade the extra stuff I have for body parts.