HizAndHerz

Owning 6 cars and having a 3-car garage means I only need to buy 3 of those.

Edit: Nevermind. Everything I was going to say was covered above.

You could also consider going with a throttle cable instead of the stock linkage.

Yes, that would work, unless you've already used up the LED outputs like I have. Another option is to use the '921 ignition driver on the V3 board since it usually comes with the kit and isn't used for EDIS.

While connecting IDM directly to the Autometer tach might work, there is some concern that the tach input might present too much load for the IDM output on the module. In this thread, there's a schematic that shows how to buffer either PIP or IDM before sending it to a tachometer: http://www.msefi.com/viewtopic.php?p=168280 The Autometer tach might have a jumper that lets you select the input type. If you can select "high impedance" then the IDM signal could be connected directly to it.

A search at the msefi.com forums reveals that at least one person has wired IDM directly to his autometer tach with success. There is one side effect: the ignition module sends a diagnostic pulse on IDM when the engine isn't running, so when you turn the key to "ON" without starting the engine, the tach will jump around a bit. Then, when you start the car, the tachometer will read correctly. You might consider this a "diagnostic feature".

There's lots more discussion here: http://forums.hybridz.org/showthread.php?t=87758 I did what Carrman suggested, but only to the rear bushing: I think its a good compromise for a street car. I have no data to back that up other than my Energy Suspension bushings haven't rotted like the rubber ones do and I haven't broken a T/C rod... yet

For EDIS-8, pin 7 is signal return back to the PCM. It also is used for the VR shield. The shield for PIP, IDM and SAW connects to the PCM. I do not know if IDM will drive the stock tachometer. All of my Z's have stuck or lazy tachometers so I haven't tried hooking anything up yet. Got spare tachs - it's just low on my priority list. There are at least 3 circuits posted at the forums at msefi.com for driving the tach. One uses a diode-or tree, another involves jumpering around the series resistor on the tach input, another uses an transistor to buffer the PIP signal. Here's one thread: http://www.msefi.com/viewtopic.php?p=168265&highlight=edis#168265 I'm sure somebody here on Hybridz with an EDIS setup got their tach working.

Some cruise control systems use a magnet that is attached to the driveshaft with the sensor mounted off the tunnel wall. Adding a second magnet to the opposite side of the driveshaft would provide the 2-pulses per revolution required by the ZX.

When I first put my EDIS wheel on, I used the thin Taurus 3.0L wheel mounted to the inner hub of the damper using standoffs like Nish did in this thread http://forums.hybridz.org/showthread.php?t=117845. For me, it was okay for testing but I worried about throwing the balance of the damper way off. I like Tim's setup alot better, very nice work. And thanks for your explanation of how you centered the wheel. I am a little concerned about how little of the bolt threads are screwed into the pulley, though. If my attempts to mount the thin wheel on the back side of the damper fall through, I may try mounting the Escort thick wheel on the front like you did.

As a rule of thumb, an increase of a full-point in compression ratio generally results in a 5% increase in horsepower and torque.

As OTM and BRAAP say, there's plenty of info in the archives. To sum up what you'll find: Smaller chambers (around 39.5cc) yielding higher compression Good quench characteristics Smaller intake valves and lower intake valve lift favoring the low RPM range and fuel economy (afterall, the engine came in a 4-door sedan) IMHO, to make it worth it, it is best to exchange the cam with the later N47 280zx head, as well as replace the intake valves. I'm not sure, but the intake valve springs may be weaker and might need to be replaced. A more agressive cam than the regular N47 would be even better. Some chamber work might be necessary after putting in the larger valves. I've got four of those heads, so I would hardly classify them as rare or NLA. I like them alot on a NA engine, especially for "in-town" driving, but you'll need to invest time/money to get a significant performance boost. I should the the disclaimer that I'm mostly spewing what I've read here and elsewhere. I'm just starting the process of getting one of my MN-47 heads rebuilt with a reground cam and larger intake valves.

I was going to save this info on my computer for reference but decided to archive it here instead so that others might benefit. The pinouts in the MegaSquirt manuals are incomplete. Note that pin 4 is signal return that runs to the ECU (ground reference for SAW, PIP and IDM), whereas pin 9 is ICM ground. ICM ground should be connected to ground via a 1N4003 diode which is what I found inline on a Ford wiring harness. Here's a blurb from an EDIS reference I found on the internet (link is now dead) that explains the reason for the diode: 6 Cylinder EDIS module pinout 1 - PIP (EDIS output signal) 2 - IDM (diagnostic signal to ECU) 3 - SAW (ECU spark control signal) 4 - Ignition GND (signal return) 5 - VRS- (crank sensor negative) 6 - VRS+ (crank sensor positive) 7 - VRS shield (crank sensor shield) 8 - VPWR (ignition switched 12 volts) 9 - PWR GND 10 - COIL 1 (coil drive) 11 - COIL 2 (coil drive) 12 - COIL 3 (coil drive) Here's the EDIS-6 wiring diagram that I edited with the corrections: Edit: I popped open the lid on the EDIS-6 module and found that all ground pins (4, 7, and 9) are connected together on the circuit board. I can see how long ground wires between the PCM, ICM and the engine might cause ground loop problems, but other than that, I'm a little baffled by the need for the diode on pin 9. It is probably okay to leave it out but just keep wire lengths as short as possible and use heavy gauge ground wires. Here is the pinout of the Dodge coil pack:

Started a new thread instead of tacking on this one.

Paul, thanks for the maps. Could you tell what req_fuel, injectors and fuel pressure you're running? I'm running a ported Maxima head with Felpro 1mm gasket for ~10.8 CR. zbigyim, could you post a picture of you EDIS wheel setup? My EDIS wheel is also mounted on front of damper but it isn't as as solid as I'd like.

I've thought about it, but MSII does everything I need on my NA engines. When the turbo build is complete, then I'll start looking at MSII Extra. Also, I've looked at the MSII and the MS-I extra source code. The extra code has so much stuff packed in there, it scared me off.

I had to pull the connectors from several Toyotas to find 6 good ones. Many of them have broken retainer clips. They are often brittle and the clips tend to get stuck and won't let go no matter how hard you press on the release. Too much pressure and they snap. I use a small flattip screwdriver directly under the clip to get it to release.

Right. The stock ignition takes care of spark. Makes it very easy to get up and going. I had no hardware or software tweaking to do on the ignition side of things for MS-II. I like starting off simple and doing little upgrades. I've got an EDIS wheel on a spare damper and am working on the sensor mount and will convert over at some point.

BTW, if I didn't make it clear, those pictures are what Nish posted a while back in conjunction with his low-cost EDIS setup.

I bought a 100ft roll of 16ga from Ace Hardware for less than $15. I believe it was rated for automotive use, but I used most of it away from the heat of the engine anyway. For engine wiring (sensors, injectors), I ended up buying a full wiring harness out of a pristine Northstar at the junkyard. Pricy at like $30 but I got all the connectors with it which included 10 injector connectors, 2 sets of 14-pin water-tight connectors for the FI and transmission subharnesses, and maybe 15 more misc connectors. It got me 3 runs of shielded two-pair for the VR, ignition, and TPS. Also, got several runs of 10ga for power. The folks at my local junkyard consider any bundled wiring of any length to be a "harness" whether it has 4 wires or 50. Same price. The trick was to pull every subharness out and connect them together so that they only charged me for one harness.

Amazingly, my local Ace HW had the tap for around $8.

Nav, I've been perfectly happy to use the stock ignition on two of our 280z's with MS-II. If you got a good dizzy and ignition module, I think it is a good way to go for NA. Later, you can always "upgrade" to using the VR circuit with the onboard '921 ignitor. To get the project on the road, I adjusted the internal AFM spring so that the flap is forced open instead of closed. I'll remove the AFM later. I just stuck the IAT sensor in the hole in the AFM to TB boot. There's nothing wrong with using the stock Air Regulator valve. Just wire +12v from the fuel pump supply so that the valve will close over a couple of minutes. I'm in the process of hooking up an IAC and body off a Buick 4-cylinder. Ended up with something similar to what Nish did. In fact, he put up some nice pictures: It looks like he used the same IAC body as I did with a blockoff plate on the bottom, drilled and tapped for 3/8" barb-to-NPT fittings. I made an adapter to bolt the IAC body over the spot where the CSV used to go, but his setup looks pretty easy to put together: I prefer the IAT before the throttle valve but here's the way Nish did it. Nice looking.

That pretty typical of an ignitor gone bad. Works for a a few seconds or minutes, then fails until it cools off. I've read of several VB921 failures on various forums leading me to believe that it might be the best choice to be inside a DIY EFI box. As Mack suggests, you may want to look at using an external ignitor. That's what I plan to do once I get my MS-II fuel-only system tweaked and move on to ignition control.

When I install my stroker motor (will it ever get done?), I plan on using eurethane mounts. Check this thread that NZeder started on using Energy Suspension captive engine mounts: http://forums.hybridz.org/showthread.php?t=120218

There may be a cheaper way to get brass bushes if they are available where you are. See here: http://atlanticz.ca/zclub/techtips/shifterbushing/index.html I found I had to ream the holes in the shifter slightly to get the brass bushings to fit without being crushed on our 280z's. I think the results is better than with new stock nylon bushings. The ZX has different bushings and I believe the early 240z's are different as well.