dosquattro

Thats looks simple enough. I know folks aren't very keen on welding onto cast but I'm a hardcore DIY'er and just crank up the heat on the MIG up and go to town. Thats why the manifold wasn't a big issue. It would of ran me 70 to make the manifold; flanges, weld-els etc...

what does tightening the spring do besides make the flapper more harder to open? I'm new to AFM's and just dealt with map sensors mostly.

So with the divided exhaust housing. Did you guys run 3 cylinders to each section or just toss it on and didn't even worry about it? I'm planning on build a manifold cause it uses a ext wg but not sure if I should just run all the cylinders to it or split up?

Damn this just keeps getting easier and easier. I may just pick up a turbo AFM anyway just incase. Plus to see if there is a noticeable difference between the two performance wise. I imagine there is but ehhh I'm a curious guy.

I believe the H1C is bigger then the HY35 if I'm not mistaken. I'll get this bad boy friday if the mail person doesn't get a hernia carrying it!

I'm gonna be getting a H1C at the end of the week in a trade. It's going to used with a 50mm wastegate since it's setup for a v-band setup on the downpipe. Just wanted to see all who runs Holsets on here and what they think of them? Spool time... How long till they run out of air...etc... I remember seeing people talking about boost creep on the units with internal wastegates but don't recall anything that required a ext. setup.

I found a auction for one that had the cover off and it looks pretty easy so I'm not worried. Thanks for clearing that up for me. Now it's parts buying time. Expect a thread on the 280z with the new setup. I have a friend with a WB o2 that help me with tuning so I wouldn't blow it up too fast!

Yeah thats what I meant! lol. So do I have to rewind the spring when I put it into the turbo housing or do all the internals just come right out in big sections or like all one piece?

Plans changed for the TT setup since I'm trading those two testicle sized snails for a Holset H1C. Still will be using just a adj FMU, 255lph fuel pump, 2 step colder plugs and possibly a adj fpr if needed for the time being. Not to mention tossing a check valve or two onto the vacuum line to the dist. so it won't adv the timing that much. Is it really needed that if I'm sticking with the NA parts that I swap the turbo AFM internal into my NA AFM? Just something that I heard? Yummy

Link doesn't work.

That "z tech tip" link was pretty helpful with all the pics and everything. I was just saying that I didn't need to deal with the spindle pin or unbolt the 1/2 shafts to install my struts and springs. Unbolting the 1/2 shaft hubs was my idea at first but even after hitting it with a torch the bolts still would break loose and I didn't feel like rounding off the nuts. I already snapped one of the bolts for the front diff mount and had to drill it out and run a long bolt nut and washer up into the interior through the floor. Thank god it didn't come out under one of the mounts for the roll and I wouldn't of been able to get to it. Also how noisy is the ES kit once it's installed? I'm not worried just curious?

Hell I've didn't even see what the pin looks like. I bypassed all that stuff. The spring are all seated correctly but just wanted to know if other people had this situation. Thanks I don't feel so bad now like I got some bad stuff or something. As for the bushings, our maintenance guy at work made me a tool to maybe help taking out the bushings and sleeves so I'll give it whirl tomorrow and see if it works or if I can throw it back at him and tell to try again.

Well I finally got off my *** and finally started installing my Tokico Illumina strut and spring combo. The fronts went on without a hitch but did anyone else who has this kit not even have to compress their spring at all and actually had some slack after it was fully assembled? I started on the rears and was fearing that the most after all the spindle pin horror stories I heard. So I was thinking there's gotta be a way around that. So I was able to get the it installed without removing the axle from the hub and not having to deal with the spindle pin which was a pretty big relief. It's a WI 75 280 so it's got it's fair share of rust. Since I'm installing a ES bushing kit(cringes and shakes) I unbolted the rear lca and sway bar which allowed me enough room to slide the insert and spring up into shock tower and slide the shaft of the strut up through the mounting plate on the shock tower and place the spacer down into the housing and then just lower it all back down into housing and worked perfectly. Then I put a jack under the spindle and raise the whole setup and tighten down the nut for the strut shaft to compress the strut and spring. As for the the bushing.....*wipes away tears* I'm debating on installing whatever ones I haven't install yet. I installed the moustache bar bushings, the rear side of the rear lca up by the diff and the sway bar bushing for the mount and the endlink. The bolt that holds the spindle pin snapped and I tried drill out the rest and it's still not budging. So that's just gonna stay the way it is. I'll just finish installing the other spring and strut and then call it a day. I've torched the sleeves and got a pipe wrench and they still don't even budge. I've taken a air hammer to them and nothing. The front lca's I have to cut the bushing sleeve and pound them out. The rears bushing sleeves are another story and have rusted right to the control arms. So I just cleaned them off and just put the new bushings right over the old sleeves. This bushing kit is for the birds!!!!

I got my front Illumina's installed and now I'm fearing the back. I'm in WI and this car has it's fair share of rust. I thought the fronts were bad. It still had the stock struts leaking oil like crazy. Not to mention I'm installing my ES bushing kit and the has it was getting the control arm bushing out. Took me almost an hour getting one out.

It's one of those home depot performance mods for DIY turbo honda folks. Besides chipping your ecu and using one of the many ecu tuning programs out on the net. Thanks

Thanks for the help. This part of the project looks more manageable. You just used like a fish tank check valve right or something else? I've used the fish tank check valves on honda turbo setups to bleed out boost from getting to the map sensor and worked fine.

So you just unplugged the vacuum lines and left it as that and plugged up the vacuum lines on both ends(manifold and dist)? No ill effects? Your making my future look more brighter with each response.

It would be cheaper for me to make the manifold and the downpipe and chargepiping then going and buying all the L28ET turbo stuff. I've got both turbos sitting here and I've got all the tools and the weld-els are cheap. After buying the L28et dist, oil pan, wiring harness, ecu, injectors, afm, yada yada... all that compared to a 255lph pump, vortech fmu. Hmmm thats a hard one. Now the guys that run a FMU, what do you do to keep the timing down? Just retard it some or just leave it?

I know it's not the greatest form of fuel management but I don't have the money right now to convert to MS or swap over to the L28ET ecu along with everything else that goes along with it. Along with the FMU I was planning on getting a new 255lph fuel pump. This would be to feed dual IHI rhb5 snails running at 6-8psi. Along with 2 step colder plugs. Help me out with my Z turbo noobness. I've used a FMU in other cheap simple turbo setups and it worked fine with moderate boost numbers. The fabrication part isn't a issue and thats cake and dealt with.

I think it's just user error from what I've seen. I've used it on all of my cars and never had any problems. If you suck in through a vacuum tube then besure to keep the throttle up so it dies out and shut the car off after you put a 1/3 of it in. Give it a couple of minutes and then start it up and prepare for the smoke out. It'll also let you know of any exhaust leaks with all the smoke coming out. Take out your o2 sensor if you want but I never had any problems. then just plug your bung. Should smoke for a couple of minutes and then clear up. If you car runs **** for a week you some of you said. I'd say get a new o2 sensor cause it might of fouled it and get some new plugs. I always use it as pretune up and then do everything afterwards...(plugs...o2 if bad...oil change..) I do the following.. a 1/3 of it in your oil and a 1/3 in your gas. Drive for a day and then change your oil cause it will thin out your oil along any crap that it loosened up. This is a aerosol seafoam that is used for spraying into your intake manifold. I think it's called deep creep but I've never used that yet.

I started a thread on it a couple of months ago about using a 4g63 and a mighty max tranny. Only thing is that tranny isn't the strongest thing but another option was a mazda pickup bell housing and a RX7 tranny. The only issue is that most like have to convert to a cable from our hydraulic slave cylinder.

Damn 400 bucks for that thing? I was thinking it was gonna come complete but holy crap. I'm just keeping my eyes open for a set of r32 taillights and just find a set of bad 75 tails and just mod them to fit with some glass and elbow grease.

Bring your o2 sensor to a hardware store and just start trying out different nuts. Why does it need to be a "o2 bung"? Your a bunghole if you pay that much for a damn thing your just threading a o2 sensor in. Hmmm $0.50 or like 5 bucks? Hmmm... this isn't rocket science. I've done this with a couple of downpipes I've made and work perfectly.

Ehhh... Thats kinda like saying add a resistor to the signal coming to the ecu from the MAF could it would only see half the voltage. Like that ebay mod that people were selling and it was only to reduce the voltage coming from the intake air temp sensor and making the ecu think it was see cooler air. How is splitting the amount of air gonna scale down the injectors so it won't flood out the engine just idling or normal driving?

Being the cheap bastard that I am. I'm thinking of just building a poor mans GTIR sr20det instead. Ingredients 1.SR20DE shortblock 2.SR20DET(s13)cylinder head 3.GTIR rods and pistons 4.GTIR intake manifold with reversed plenum 5.SR20DET RWD exhaust manifold 6.GTIR T28 snail. Should be under 1000 for everything including the adapter plate and MSnS.