dosquattro

At first I was thinking of using a FWD SR20 and use the L-series adapter plate but found this. http://www.japaneseauto.com/mitstoyotatransadaptors.html Allows you to mount a W-series transmission onto a 4G63. Only thing you need to do is flip your throttle body to the other side of the plenum. No distributor to worry about and these engines can take a beating. Not to mention parts are everywhere for them and usually cheaper then a SR from what I found. Tuning can be done with a SAFC or a DSMlink setup which basically turns your ecu into a standalone. No need to use a weak mighty max tranny Dodge D50 tranny. Not to mention the supra tranny can hold quite abit of power and you just use oem parts to make it work. No custom stuff beside the bellhousing.

It's more of a custom thing as how you mounted your engine will be different from another person unless you got premade mounts from someplace and found someone else who used them and get a measurement. Just break out a tape measure unless. If figuring out how long of a driveshaft you'll need maybe this swap isn't up your alley. Just my .02.

NOt to mention I always want to drive above 7k all day just to get some power out of it. TO get the most out of it you gotta rev the ♥♥♥♥ out of it and yeah it's fun at first but gets a tiring after awhile. SR or maybe a 4G63 with one of their bell housings to be able to use a toyota W-series transmissions. Then you just have to have your intake manifold modified to have the throttle body on the other side. 4G63's are like the Chuck Norris of 4 cylinders. It's just the drivetrain that's the achillies heel to DSM's. The 6 bolt engines are beefy as they come. http://www.japaneseauto.com/mitstoyotatransadaptors.html

I'd say find a Corolla all trac wagon as we got those here and find a AWD DSM parts cars and use that instead. I always wanted to swap in a 4G and the drivetrain into a Civic AWD wagon. Being more then 500lbs less then a any AWD DSM the drivetrain would last longer then being in those DSM heavy weight piggies. I'd say just toss a 20V into it and call it a day.

Damn! That thing probably wouldn't start spooling till 5th gear on the highway. That's pretty massive. Let alone if you fit underneath the intake manifold using the stock L28ET manifold swapped to a T4 flange. Save your money and find something smaller.

Just weld that flapper shut and ditch all the wastegate actuator stuff and you'll be set. Then just buy a 5 bolt flange that just has the opening for the exhaust and not the wastegate hole.

I've got the same stuff. Only thing I've heard is that with the wastegates you need to crack them open and check to see if the diaphram is seated properly. Besides that....they are a great bang for the buck. My setup so far. Stock 280ZX turbo manifold converted to a t4/60mm ext. WG manifold. WG look familiar.

You can get everything from Steve at Stealthmode Performance. That adapter comes right with the oil line kit. I've used his kit in two cars and worked great. He also has a nice little valve restrictor. I'm getting my oil line kit him for the 280Z. http://stealthmodeperformance.com

Why The Need To Have Cap's For The Beginning Of Each Word? ^^

Sounds like a vacuum leak or a leaky intake manifold gasket.

HOw much do those Hayashi's run? Alot of the ones I find are 14" and I don't want to go that small but their pretty cheap...talking like under 200 for a complete set. Found a set of 14x8's 114.3x4...offset isn't anything crazy so no lip like those but I can score those for 130. Would be nice for a 510 though or if you dropped a Z alot so you wouldn't have crazy wheel gap, but still...

You could run a little t between the center housing and restrictor and have a oil pressure gauge mounted off to the side but I've never had a problem with them choking off the turbo of oil. But it's an option if your weary of starving it not knowing how much oil it's getting. Steve at Stealthmode offers these cause he deals with honda's that run a higher oil presssure to make their vtec operate correctly. It also helps with older turbos that may have worn out seals and keeps pressure down to keep it from pushing it out into the exhaust or compressor housings. I've never heard anything bad from them as long as they've been out. One thing I've also heard on the chinese turbos is to completely go over it and check all nuts and bolts cause the nut that holds on the compressor wheels on the T70's have a tendency to work themselves loose and it doesn't look good after that. Same thing for the chinese wastegates. Those I've heard alot of good things about actually and I have one myself. Such as the rubber diaphram not seated correctly and loose bolts. Just go over the stuff. If your really worried...just take it to a diesel repair shop as alot of them are able to balance turbos. And just have them go over it before you strap it on.

it's junk by now. Take it out and give it to me and I can dispose of it for you. If it hasn't been beaten on...regular oil changes. It should still be good.

I've got a SSauto T4 60-1. Most of what I hear is most start spewing oil out withing a few thousand miles if that. So when I get my a5s in gear and starting putting everything on the Z. I'm installing a restriction valve from Stealthmode Performance along with their oil line kits. I've used them before on a couple of hondas I've boosted and they worked fine. They also work good on older turbos that smoke from bad seals. Or just run down to the hardware store and pick up a simple needle ball valve. http://stealthmodeperformance.com/oil-res.shtml

You have any pics of the intake flange? Are there injector bungs incorporated into it? You said you'd do trades for them also? I've got a L28 header that I'd trade for both flanges.

I knew the NA blocks had a higher CR then the turbo'd blocks. Just wasn't sure it was too high. Maybe I'll just toss a thicker headgasket in it to lower it. Really though. My local pick and pull does the any engine in the yard for 150 and they pull it and load it into your car even. Anything bolted onto it is included with the 150 besides the tranny. It's a toss up between this and a FWD SR20DE longblock and using the l-series adapter plate.

or maybe try the adapter plate of using a FWD SR20 block and a L series tranny. No need to touch anything behind the engine blockbell. Now everything infront of it...check out the swapping in a FWD SR20DE engine thread.

Anymore updates on this? I can't stop coming back to this thread and then checking ebay for craigslist for cheap 13bt's. No luck so far though... What are your thoughts on boosting a NA 13b? Those I can find quite easily and dirt cheap.

I mean swapping in a DET you have the engine to mount up along with the tranny and get a new driveshaft made up. This your only dealing with the engine and nothing behind it. Yeah you gotta deal with the intake mani and dist but nothing that crazy. Find someone that can weld AL and then hell just cut a opening on the firewall or if there's enough room just pound the firewall.

The stock FWD DE bottom ends can take quite abit. I can get DE's at my pick and pull for 150 for a complete longblock and everything else bolted to it(alt, dist, full harness if I remove it or else they just hack it)intake manifold, exhaust manifold. Basically everything besides the tranny. They leave everything on it. The number of boosted DE's is quite huge and all get pretty good results. I think it's a better option then swapping in a RWD DET. Compression (9.5-1)isn't that high that you'd need to swap in low compression pistons or stronger rods. Hell my buddy ran a UK Primera DE which is a 10.1 CR engine and boosted it just fine and got 278WHP out of it. He was only using E-manage. It just falls back on the tune.

Or do what the Corolla guys do when they swap in 20V 4age's. Take out all the electrical stuff out of the dist and using the trigger wheel in it as your trigger wheel. Works for them when using megasquirt. They have the same issue when installing the fwd 20v engines into the RWD corolla wiht the dist/firewall issues. Some just cut a hole, get a BFH and pound the firewall or just remove it completely and run a ford EDIS setup and MS.

I always like the R32 tails and you can find those pretty easily and cheap on ebay.

Good point...never even thought of that. I was thinking of still trying to keep a stock ecu type setup for a cheaper and easy alternative. If I went with a FWD SR block I'd go straight for a RNN14 setup. How much do those fwd sr block-Lseries tranny adapter plates go for again? lol. How's the clearance with the oilpan and crossmember? What's all right behind the firewall where the dist would be placed? ....itchy jigsaw trigger finger....lol

I'd use the adapter cause it's just less ♥♥♥♥ you have to fab up...tranny mount, driveshaft. FWD sr20's are dirt cheap. Only thing is that the RWD use coilpacks instead of a dist setup and then figure out what ecu to use or just go with a standalone. I thought of this for awhile and it was really tempting. My junkyard is load with SR20de's for 150 each. I thought of getting a rwd head/intake mani and finding a cheap DE block. My buddy is station in Okinawa and SR20DET parts are dirt cheap. If shipping were only the same for large items.

LS1-487 LBS 350hp 375ft/lbs TQ 13B-REW(twin turbo)425 LBS 255hp 220ft/lbs TQ