SpeedRacer

You shouldn't have any problem with the GM column connectors. I just cut them off and spliced the harness into the Z column. Again, no matter which way you go you have to know how to wire the car. BTW, that looks like an awesome kit for the price.

Just barely.....http://www.zparts.com/showcase/engines/pages/q45v8z-testfit.html

The Honda pulls make for a really clean and simple installation. When you see how simple and effective they are you will hit your forehead with the palm of your hand and say "WHY DIDN'T I THINK OF THAT!" Since a few of you need them, why don't you ask Jim Simpson http://www.simpsondesign.net/ if he would consider a "group buy" and save yourselves a lot of trouble and $$$. Just a thought.

Yeah "Painless" is a misnomer and I can't argue with the $$$. However, having a new fuse block with all the wires connected is a plus and you get a pretty good manual too. You learn just as much using the Painless Wiring Kit because you have to figure out all the wiring anyway. The kit just gives you a neat clean way to do it and a record of what you have done.

I used the Painless 18 circuit harness in my car and it worked out great although I did mount the fuse block above the dead pedal on the drivers side. You could easily wire the car in a day. You might try Ron Francis http://www.wire-works.com/ but I think the cost is pretty much the same.

BTW this is what I think a "recreation" of "right proportions" would be http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/ws/eBayISAPI.dll?ViewItem&item=1873926211

Sorry but it's Omologato. However, I think the guy is a real jerk for trying to pawn it off as a real Ferrari. Ferrari would never make a dash that ugly!

I don't know what kind of foam they used but GM used to fill the voids between the supports and body on their G van's to prevent "oil canning." I saw a couple of rusted vans and they rusted up to the area that was foamed but not where the foam was.

Yes, the Honda Civic trunk pulls have the finger hook built into them.

Nope! I had to do that with my 240Z because the GTO type dash fits a 260Z an up Z. Steering column is in a different place and the whole HVAC setup in the center of the dash is different. Sorry.

Don't ya just love lawyers! BTW, that dash is the original Alpha 1 GTO dash that Joe Alphabet sold. I have the same dash in my car http://www.hybridz.org/Review/0002/GTO_31.jpg I think Jeff over at Stable Autoworks http://www.zcarkits.com/ can sell you one. It's fiberglass and you strip all the vinyl and foam off the old Z dash and the screw and foam this dash to the Datsun steel skeleton. You can even use the original Z gauges if you want too. The other nice thing is that it's set up to use all the original Z vents and controls.

Buy a universal Lokar one from Summit http://www.summitracing.com/ - $25.95 including shipping. The part number is LOK-TC-1000U.

Yup - http://www.zparts.com/showcase/engines/pages/eng_lexus1.htm The one on Eric's site isn't blown but the supercharger doesn't look to tall.

Here is a couple of shots of a car with the Simpson type GTO dash in it http://www.kitcars.com/Classifieds/AdDetails.asp?classified_id=1272

I'm pretty sure that Jeff over at Stable Autoworks http://www.zcarkits.com/ has both the Alpha 1 and Simpson GTO dashboards available. I have the Alpha 1 type in my car http://www.hybridz.org/Review/0002/GTO_31.jpg Jeff gets around $300-$350 for them I think. BTW, the plastic steering column surround doesn't hold anything together. Everything is mounted solid to the steering column. Also, I do not use the "stalk" on my car either. I changed to switches mounted on the console and just glued a black plastic body plug in the hole it left in the surround. I do however, still use the original ignition switch since it locks the steering on the car.

Eric doesn't say who's project this is but he has some shots of a Q45 engine being test fitted into a 240 Z http://www.zparts.com/showcase/engines/pages/q45v8z-testfit.html

vchon - You might want to contact Jeff over at Stable Autoworks http://www.zcarkits.com/ and see if he will build you a turn key car.

THe correct wheel is a Nardi Anni 60 http://www.sportscar-parts.com/nardi.htm BTW I have a Nardi Classico 390 http://sportscar-parts.com/mivastore/merchant.mv?Screen=PROD&Store_Code=www.sportscar-parts.com&Product_Code=nd5201393000 on my GTO but I'm considering switching to the Nardi Anni 60. Would you be interested in buying my old wheel? Oh yeah, it has the Nardi Anni 60 horn button assembly so you can use a Ferrari horn button. However, the Nardi horn button would be provided.

I'd vote for the 302 CID SBC as well. Thanks to the TransAm series a 302 in the race Z28 (every part had to have a factory part number!) produced 465+ HP at 7,800 back in the early 70's. I think all but the first Z28's used large journal nodular iron cranks. The last time I checked one of these cranks was going for $1,400 used! Since that may drive up the price the 327 would be the next logical choice.

BLKMGK - A couple of old GM cars (1962/1963 Oldsmobile "F" body called a Jetfire I think) had turbos with water/alky injection. I think they used it on that little 215 CID liter aluminum V8. Obviously not computerized but you might want to check it out.

After market angle plug heads can cause a problem. I'd give Sanderson Headers http://www.sandersonheaders.com/enginetype/chvysb49eng.htm a call and see if they can help.

I only get a red "X" for the pictures so this may be the same shot - Eric Neyerlin over at ZParts http://www.zparts.com/showcase/engines/pages/eng_lexus1.htm has a picture of a Lexus twin cam V8 in a Z car. BTW, here is a link to "Jags That Run" (JTR) that publishes the Chevy V8/Datsun Z conversion manual. http://www.jagsthatrun.com/Pages/Datsun_Z_V-8.html Summit Racing http://www.summitracing.com/ carries it for US$30.69 (including shipping) but I don't know if they will mail it down under.

You might want to see if you have a Gas Tank Renu http://www.gastankrenu.com/welcome.htm dealer near you. I had them do this to my tank and it came out great. PVC plastic coated inside and out plus it's covered by a lifetime warranty.

Guys - these door pull adapters are not rocket science. There is the piece (part "A") with two holes in it so you can bolt it to the inside of the door using the two existing holes on the door skin. On the end of part "A" a short piece of 1" OD tubing is welded on and acts as a holder for the Honda push button assembly. The button assembly slides into this holder and a modified Datsun spring clip holds it in place. (BTW, I notched my part "B" so the button assembly could not rotate). Welded on the back of the 1" OD holder is part "D" which holds the bell crank. Parts "B" and "C" are mounted at 90 degrees on a shaft that goes through part "D". When you push in on the Honda button the plunger out the back pushes against part "B" causing it to rotate. This rotates part "C" downward, which moves the original Datsun linkage downward and opens the door. BTW, the linkage in the door that comes up off the locking mechanism has a threaded nylon piece on it so it's got some adjustment range. This means that dimensions don't have to be perfect. Hope this helps.

BTW Tom - I have a really cool picture that Jim Simpson sent me some time ago. It’s a shot of his red Rhino Ferrari GTO with a Rhinoceros standing in front of it and staring it down.