SpeedRacer

Optima batteries are great - check it out for yourself here http://www.optimabatteries.com/

That's why they call it a collapsible steering column - the column collapses and the steering shaft inside slides on splines as Blueovalz mentioned. It's required by law and the Z car's design is similar to many other vehicles. BTW, having one (the column or the shaft) move without the other wouldn't do much good. It's not so much the shaft moving rearward and striking the driver as it is the driver moving forward and hitting the wheel/column.

Not true - all Z cars from the very first 240Z had collapsible steering columns. That's why the lower part of the column looks like an accordion.

OK, I give up - what is a green dot mirror?

Probably to late now but I had Griffin weld (Heli-Arc) an aluminum "L" shaped bracket to each tank and then mounted it the same way (and in the same holes) as the stock radiator. http://www.hybridz.org/Review/0002/Ferrari_GTO.htm

It's back, so here's your chance John http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/ws/eBayISAPI.dll?ViewItem&category=6212&item=2425574259

Staledale - since you are going for the V12 and realistic look, are you going to put a trunk in it like Scorpion has? http://www.scorpionzcars.com/ It's the one thing I really wish I had done to mine.

John, Click on "Album" at the top of the page and then click on "Users Personal Galleries" - go down to "Staledale" and click again.

That's a Michigan "Manufacture's" plate on it so my guess is that the boys over at Ford are running some comparison testing against the upcoming Ford GT. Got to see the new Ford GT at this years Detroit Auto Show and it is AWESOME!!!!

Use the old motor for core value - you can get a brand new crate motor from GM (260 HP & 350 foot pounds of torque) with a 3 year/50,000 mile warranty for $1,189.00 http://www.paceparts.com/product.asp?3=3169 Better yet, pick up a 330HP 350 for $2299.97 !!!! http://www.paceparts.com/product.asp?0=239&1=241&3=886

If you are talking about the rebodied 1962 Ferrari 250 GTO this company http://www.reinaintlauto.com/Reinaused.html sold it to a guy in Florida who keeps listing it on eBay. I think I've seen it listed four times now. I don't know what they sold it to him for but it was listed at $175,000 on their web site. There are a few of these around. Ferrari provided original wood bucks (molds) to the English racing team that was campaigning GTO's. These molds were later sold and used to convert real Ferrari's (usually a 330 chassis) into GTO's. I think this is the place that did the conversion http://www.allegretticars.com/ferrari250.htm They will build you one - full size or three quarter scale!!! The story of the molds is quite interesting but to long to cover here. However, Ferrari tried to put a stop to these replicas as well but lost out in court since, when they provided the molds to the racing team, they never specified how they could be used. 8)

Wow - that's a great looking (and very red) Ferrari GTO 250z. If you don't mind me asking, where did you get the headlight cover trim rings and grill opening moulding?

Hi Staledale - glad to see you’re working on your GTO. Yes, I would buy the same tires again. They just (and I mean just) fit inside the wheel openings but I think they look a lot like the real thing. However, be careful of two things..1) your real suspension is different and 2) I've noticed that, on most 250 GTO kits, the passenger side rear wheel opening is in a different location then the drivers side. It's a bit farther rearward on the passenger side. If you go to Dunlop's site they have the dimensions of all their tires.

Right on - Pete Brock helped design it and the kit is almost identical to the real thing http://www.maximum-cars.com/Cars/CarPicDisplay.php?carnumber=138&pictureID=1

You're right - the Precision Weatherstrip kit is great and has just about all the rubber weatherstripping you will need BUT the door seals are to thick and hard. Do youself a favor and buy the factory seals for the doors and use the kit for the rest.

Yup - the drivers side knock-offs are right hand threaded (tighten turning to the right) and the passenger side knock-offs are left hand threaded (tighten turning to the left). The Dayton wire wheels were supplied with a lead hammer for installation. Leather and rubber don't have enough weight to tighten the spinner. Of course the lead is soft enough that it won't harm the chrome on the spinner.

It's a replica of a Ferrari 365 GTB/4 (aka Ferrari Daytona). http://www.pctime.it/frame.html?http://www.pctime.it/ospiti/ferrari/ferrari.html

Close to top down http://www.hybridz.org/Review/0002/Ferrari_GTO.htm So..........what's your idea?

Haven't seen a Z based Cobra coupe for many years but here's a link to the Factory Five Racing version http://www.factoryfive.com/table/ffrkits/coupe/coupekit.html

Most cars (including all the early Z cars) have the cigarette lighter wired hot so it will work with the ignition key off. Therefore, a solar charger can simply be plugged into the cigarette lighter socket. I agree with Greimann - why not use an Optima battery instead. They can sit on a shelf for three years and not discharge significantly. Of course, you can't have some device in the car the constantly uses and significant Amps.

FYI - The one on my car is 4 3/8" tall. http://www.cardomain.com/member_pages/view_page.pl?page_id=236622

Don't forget Jeff over at Stable Autoworks http://www.zcarkits.com/

Here's a bunch of pictures from Carlise that I found (including one awesome Ferrari F40!) http://www.kitkar.com/gallery.php?gallery=car2003

Pretty normal for an old Z. If you don't want to do it yourself see if you have one of these around http://www.gastankrenu.com

I had MSA custom make my driveshaft for me since their shortest is 19.75 inches in length and I needed 19.25 inches. Also, my 6.25 inch damper sits slightly behind the steering rack and I can just fit my finger between the damper and the rack. So..... my guess would be that the JTR method places the engine about a 1/2" farther back and about 3/4" lower in the car. Please keep in mind that I use the super small MSD billet distributor (PN 8570) http://www.msdignition.com/ and slotted the motor mounts to move the engine even farther rearward per JTR.