SpeedRacer

Here are pictures of two different dashboards usually used with the GTO kits http://www.kitcarz.com/dashboards.htm The one on the top was made by Jim Simpson and is completely fiberglass. The second one is the old Alpha dash and is fiberglass as well but you mount it over the old Datsun steel skeleton. It is also designed to use the original Z gauges if you desire. Both dashboards are available from Stable Autoworks http://www.zcarkits.com/ BTW, I have the Alpha GTO dash in my car using Stewart Warner gauges http://www.hybridz.org/Review/0002/GTO_31.jpg

I use the small MSD distributor on my car because of the Tri-Power. With 90 degree MSD wires it's only 6" above the manifold. That makes it 5" below the hood flange right above it on the body. I measured from the top of the flange (without the rubber weatherstrip down to the top of the ignition wires. Sorry, I don't use any hood latch so I can't tell you if it will fit but it looks like it should.

Thanks guys and yup - I have answered the question a few times but the search function still seems to be broken so............. Forget the valve covers - lots of people have tried to find them and failed. If you don't mind the four cam look (and expense!!!) Mickey over at Inglese has some great looking SBC valve covers http://www.inglese.com/inglese_products.htm BTW, He also has some awesome induction systems. Better news on the Tri-power setup. Try Vintage Speed http://www.vintagespeed.com/ or you can get it from Larry Fulton over at Automotion http://www.hotrodcarbs.com/ Edelbrock still makes a Tri-Power intake but it is dual plane which makes it too tall to fit under my hood. Therefore, my manifold is an Offenhauser single plane unit that was made for early Corvettes. I picked it up, brand new in the original box, off of eBay. My air cleaner is an old Edelbrock unit and the good news there is that they have started making it again http://www.edelbrock.com/automotive/index.html Hope this helps.

icesky - Vehicle balance and handling have been covered a few times but I think its worth going over again. First - If you use light weight parts on a small block Chevy (SBC) such as aluminum heads, intake and waterpump plus headers, light flywheel and a compact gear drive starter the engine will weigh no more than the L6 it replaced. Now here's the good part - being a V type engine it's quite low compared to the tall L6. Also, even though it has two more cylinders, it is two cylinders shorter than the L6. If you mount it using the JTR method (it's the only way to go!) http://www.jagsthatrun.com/Pages/Datsun_Z_V-8.html the entire engine will be mounted behind the front axle. So, the end result is the car weighs the same as stock but now the weight distribution is improved from 52% front - 48% rear to an almost perfect 50-50% !!!! On top of that, the engine is much lower so you have reduced the center of gravity for the vehicle. And last, but not least, less mass in front of the front axle reduces the polar moment so ............. If you do it right, it will actually significantly improve the handling of the car.

Cobra kit car builders and accessory supliers are a good place to check for aluminum fip-top gas (Petrol ) caps http://www.cobraspares.com/brightworks.htm or http://www.cobraaccessories.com/ffhome.html or http://www.cybercars.com/mnfr/ken6.html http://www.completeautomobilist.co.uk/online/itmidx7.htm

Just happened to notice that VR Engineering has a picture of both the Simpson and Alpha GTO dashboards on their site http://www.kitcarz.com/dashboards.htm

Thought I'd seen that car before. I ran a search and it's http://www.geocities.com/tmaxson1 Tony Maxon's (TonyM member 401 here) car.

If anybody is interested there is a Ferrari 250 GTO replica for sale over at Kitcars.com http://www.kitcars.com/Classifieds/AdDetails.asp?classified_id=842 Looks like it might be a Rhino (Blue Ray Engineering) with a Velo Rossa front end. At least it's powered by a SBC. There is also another one listed under "Unfinished Projects" http://www.kitcars.com/Classifieds/AdDetails.asp?classified_id=892

Since Jeff over at Stable Autoworks http://www.zcarkits.com/ has the old Rhino molds why don't you ask him.

Man those Tomahawks sure are pretty. It's hard to believe that they are made from Z cars.

What kit are you building? a) Alpha 1 McBurnie (Original) c) Rhino (Blue Ray Engineering) d) Stable Autoworks e) Velo Rossa (VR Engineering) f) Thunder Ranch (Latest McBurnie) g) Puckett h) Other What stage are you in and do you have any photos to share?

Eddie - there is an OK shot of the Ferrari/Alphabet dash in my car if you check the "Featured Cars" area on this site. Jim Simpson made one too but I don't have a digital picture of it. Sorry.

Big Chris - you can get your Stewart Warner guages here http://www.stewartwarner.net/SW%20Pages/swgauge3b.htm I will try to get some shots of the dash for you later. I know that a small block Chevy (SBC) is available in Australia so if you decide to use one you can get a Tri-Power unit from Vintage Speed http://www.vintagespeed.com/ or Larry Fulton over at Automotiom http://www.hotrodcarbs.com/ Or, you could always call Mickey over at Inglese http://www.inglese.com/ and buy one of his SBC four 2bbl intakes with Ferrari DCNF Webers mounted on it!!!

Ooooops - I missed that fact that your are from down under. Finding a RHD dash may be a bit of a challenge. If you haven’t already done it, I would check with Classic Revival. John Washington at VR Engineering http://www.kitcarz.com/index.htm is off doing other things now but if you could get ahold of him he might know where to find a dash. The Edelbrock air cleaner shown is not the Tri-Power version (it's the dual quad version) so it's a bit shorter. Also I replaced the two black knurled knobs with a couple of stainless acorn nuts. Here are a few additional pics of the car http://www.ofoto.com/BrowsePhotos.jsp?UV=969766190741_80589458103&US=0&collid=49144495103 A couple of guys at work just took some new and really great pictures of the car and I will have them soon. BTW, I would order the valve covers without the Edelbrock script on them and use the real Ferrari script. http://www.ferraripartsexchange.com/emblems.htm

Welcome Big Chris!!! Glad to have you on board although I have good news and bad news. The bad news is that, you are pretty much out of luck when it comes to finding those valve covers. The air cleaner is an Edelbrock unit that they made years ago. Now the good news is that they have started making them again http://www.edelbrock.com/automotive/index.html Click on "Accessories" and then "Air Cleaners, Elite Series Aluminum" I sanded off the Eldebrock signature and replaced it with a Mylar sticker (black on clear)that I picked up at a hobby shop. The dash came from John Washington at VR Engineering but I think they just closed shop. Jeff over at Stable Autoworks http://www.zcarkits.com/ has this dash and a different one that Jim Simpson made. The guages are Stewart Warner with the speedo and tach made for a '55 Chevy. It's really tough to find big instruments these days. Let me know if I can be of any further help.

Thanks SuperDan, Pete and Mike. This is great!!!

Be VERY careful!!!! Got a guy that works for me and he went for Lasik surgery about two months ago. In short, the laser malfunctioned and went through his eye. He is still out of work and blind in one eye forever.

Yup - I picked up on the fact that they are cloth. If they were vinyl a rattle can of vinyl dye should do the trick. Most auto parts stores carry them. The soap helps to break down surface tension and overcomes small amounts of grease, dirt, etc. so the dye takes evenly. I'd suggest a liquid soap over powdered type but any good upholstery soap will work. Just don't scrub them so hard with the brush that you ruin the knap of the cloth. BTW, this works great on faded carpet too.

Used to do this all the time to used cars. Go to the hardware store and buy a box of black Rit dye. While you are there also buy some upholstery soap, sponge, soft hand brush and rubber gloves. Mix the soap and dye in a bucket of warm water and apply with the sponge. Work in with the soft hand brush and the let dry. It will take a quite a while to dry but you can help it along if you have a wet/dry vacuum. They will end up looking almost new and it will not come off. Don't forget to wear the gloves or your hands will be very black for a long time.

Do you think this would fit in my Z car? http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/ws/eBayISAPI.dll?ViewItem&item=1844398038

WOW Pete - that thing looks absolutely awesome!!! I love the paint color and blacked out moldings but those wheels really finish it off. Glad to hear that it's finally on the road - must be time to enjoy the ride!

Try VR Engineering http://www.kitcarz.com/

Timberwolf, Listen to Dan and get the JTR manual. Here are a couple of other things to think about. The oil pickup sump is in the front on a Ford. You will have to get a "split" pan and associated pickup tube/screen. You will still have to mount it a bit higher in the car than the SBC to clear the steering rack and crossmember. You mentioned a 5-speed. Ford doesn't have any manual trans cars with a hydraulic clutch. You will have to use a hydraulic throwout bearing. Using the JTR method you can make the Chevy look like the folks from Nissan engineered it that way. Nothing against Ford but IMHO the SBC is the easiest, quickest and provides the best "fit."

To the great and all powerfull HybridZ moderators - what do you think about the idea of having a Body Kit/Kit Car Section? It would help to unclog the Body and Paint section plus, at the same time, give us a place to focus info on all the special body kits (including all the GTO's !!!!).

Hi Dale - Yup, I have the typical Dayton adapter for the knock-offs. I just went out in the garage and measured a couple of things. I always thought I had 10" rears but they measure 9" which is the same as the front. Again, I am measuring them on the car with the tires mounted. So, I must have 8" rims probably just like the ones Tomahawk Z has. Since the tires travel through an arc it's difficult to tell how much room is left. My guess is that you could only move the wheels out another 1/2" to 3/4 max". A great deal of that will depend on the tire you intend to install. IMHO, if you lose to much offset it won't look right. I think 4 1/4" per side is to much to make up. BTW, the Michigan guy with the GTO that you met at Carlise is Dan Horton. Check your e-mail because I'll send you his phone number.