mrparks

Click Me

The heat shield that runs 90 degrees from the intake is bolted on, I think they're 12mm. You have to get those off first. Feel around with a 12" extension for the other 12mm intake and exhaust bolts. I don't recall the exact number of bolts.

Required reading

Have you considered peeling the "chrome" off the plastic and recovering it with a foil? There's a product called "Bare metal foil" that scale modelers use to replicate metal surfaces. Local hobby shop should have it, or order some off the internet. Superglue the crack back together, sand it smooth and recover it with foil. They have a black chrome foil that I plan on using on all chrome trim pieces when I get around to doing the interior on my Z.

^Bondo is cheap. They're a good shape. They got the lip in the front, and the top extends up into the top of the fender. Smooth them out, maybe blend it into the fender a little bit, add a vent maybe.

Sort of Z33 flares on a S30 front end. (On a 240sx) It is a little like OTM's "Free Fender Flares" at the top, but more blended into the rest of the fender. The curve coming off the wheel well would be a perfect place for a vent I'd like to see a blended in "spook" chin spoiler, that has been extended out to the sides of flared front fenders. It would look something like this: Which could go well with the back half of the SubtleZ kit.

Pardon me if I'm wrong, but even if that area is ported out, wouldn't the runners still be a restriction?

Would look a lot better with the doors shaved. Black is a lot of work though. I like the look a lot, but as I live in a desert it just isn't a good idea for me.

I think it would look best without the nissan logo on it. Perhaps get the valve cover that says " NISSAN - OHC " and then grind off the lettering, leaving the fins. I did it to mine, it doesn't look too bad even though I did get a little heavy-handed with the grinder. Maybe grind off the fins, too. Would look just like the turbo valve cover without any of that raised lettering. Or leave the NISSAN on it, and grind off everything else. Or just grind off the ISSAN, leaving a N, which looks just like a Z. Your choice.

^You can move the .torrent file where ever you want, but it will download to the location that you specified. Hope that helps. I have the video, and I will help seed it.

OTM, you should have used the orange tube cement. Don't worry about the cancer, it only counts if you live in CA. The blue tube stuff (smells of oranges?) doesn't hold up that great. I also recall one of the Japanese model companies saying that Revell-Monogram made some aspects of that Z smaller to retain the visual appearence of the body while in scale. Whether it's true or not is a matter of debate.

Why not just poke holes through it with a hot needle? That would establish airflow through it, and provide a little resistance. Most cars have a high pressure area between the grille and the radiator, which would lead me to believe that air is not pushed through the radiator fast enough, and what is pushed through becomes trapped in the engine compartment and creates lift. I could be wrong.

Stupid question: Does the electronics involved in this swap differ in any major way from that of a small block chevy?

Assuming this is stick, and that you can weld from the outside of the joint: Take your time with the root pass, burn it in. You'll need to make sure you got the pieces lined up properly, too. Then burn the root pass. After that, do two cover passes over it, making sure you go slow enough that two passes will fill it in. (The black on the picture) Then, you put another set of cover passes over that, making sure you catch the corners. That should take at least 3 passes. Watch the heat build up. This may not be the "right" thing to do, but it's what I would do.

What exactly is meant by "notchy"?