2ManyZs

Well Buck, you should have made one more trip out my way before you left...... I know, you were in a hurry to check out the Hooter's casino.....

Northwest VA isn't too bad... a little too close to DC for me, but I'm stuck here. Housing prices were getting out of hand with all the idiots from the DC area getting into bidding wars for homes in the mountains away from the city. Some were paying 50-100K over the asking price to get the contract. Racing? Summit Point, less than an hour Plenty of Auto-X's in the DC/Baltimore area VIR, bout 3 1/2 hours Beaverrun, bout 3 1/2 hours Mid Ohio, bout 6 hours Watkins Glen, bout 6 hours Road Atlanta, bout 7 hours

I couldn't get it to post without posting it as an attachment after I re-sized it Jon.... And I don't have any way of hosting it either....

Here ya go Jon, here's a pic of an R200 with the Torson.... And no, it's not for sale.....

Zmanco, to the best of my knowledge, the ("K") R-180 from the 200SX base models weren't offered with LSD. If any of the 200SX models were offered with LSD from the factory, I would assume it would have been the Turbo models or the V-6 models, but they used an R-200 and neither of those models sold in high numbers at least compared to the base models. The main reason people ought to look for the SX diff is for the ratio they want to go with a 5 speed tranny swap, then later adding an aftermarket LSD. I would assume the R-200's from the 200SX's would be compatible with the ZXT CV halfshafts for an easy bolt in swap into an 240-280Z, but I have no first hand knowledge as I've never found a Turbo or V-6 200SX in a salvage yard in my area to experiment with.

Oops, Zmanco caught me not proof-reading my post...... It's not a 240SX diff, it's from the 84-88 200SX.

Looks good to me Jon.... The main reason I can see to include the "KR" diff is that it seems they are more abundant in the junkyards today due to the fact that all the 720 pickup diffs have long since been snatched up. Up until recently no one knew how easy it is to convert the SX diff to use the stock halfshafts, which means there are still quite a few 4:11 (and 3:90's) out there waiting to be used. I was going to buy the one the pick and pull yanked the CV halfshafts out of, but they wanted more than what I paid for the brand new OEM diff I luckily won on Ebay.

The KR is the 84-88 240SX diff. Wasn't too long ago you could buy a brand new one from OEM Surplus. I picked up one from them off Ebay for under 100 bucks. I was trying to swap one in my 71 using the OEM 240SX CV joints but found out they are too long and would have had to buy custom shafts from Modern. Luckily, I saw the thread here before I tore mine apart as I had a suspicion that the inserts might be able to be swapped. One other small item, you forgot to mention that during the "good old days" of many suppliers of Z parts, that Torson had a differential that fit into the R200's. Not many of them left, and those that are, probably aren't for sale if you are lucky enough to find one.

Also hear rumors that old cages such as the Autopower will not be grandfathered in any more. They want the main hoops to attach to the floor area and the older Autopower cages that attach to the inner fender won't be legal. To me option #5 as zed240au alluded to is probably the easiest, as you can do your welding, then adjust the height of not only the main hoop but also your the front of the cage to butt up against the windshield pillar/roof if you build up boxes off the rocker area under the hoops.

80840-E4101 Drivers side and 80841-E4101 passengers side, and yes, they are called a "bumper" Watch this sellers auctions, they list them quite frequently and have about the best price you'll find, although their shipping is a bit slower since they use UPS for everything. http://motors.search.ebay.com/_W0QQfgtpZ1QQfrppZ25QQsassZvintageQ5fnissanQ5fpartsQQssPageNameZSTRKQ3aMEBIQ3aMESOI

His site is now full of pictures straight from the MSA catalog as well as Baddog Parts and possibly Zedd Findings. I doubt people know their products are being listed on his site along with the ripped off pictures.

http://www.piercemanifolds.com/products.htm They have the complete kit and individual parts. Last I knew, the complete triple Weber kit was about 179 dollars, and the part number was 729.

I don't know that you will be gaining anything at all with your bars to the T/C mount unless it is fully triangulated, unless you did something that I have thought of and that is to put a curved bar under the engine/tranny to connect the T/c pockets together. FWIW, the old BSR and BRE car ran that tube from the end of the rocker up thru the inner fender and connected it to end of the tube that came thru the firewall to the strut tower. I'm no expert on cage building, but your door bar idea is good on paper but not be strong unless it is a true 'X" bar that connects to the bottom of both the front downleg and the main hoop, that is, if from your drawing I'm correct in assuming you want to gain room to enter the car by ending the tube from the dash area to the rocker panel. I think a better solution would be one of two ideas, either a bar from the front downtube that connects to the main hoop but with a lower mounting point on the front downtube (about where the bottom of the dash would be, think of an X with the | leg that starts at the same level as the meeting point). Or, run a horizontal tube just above the rocker from the main hoop to the front downtube and then just put a short tube down from the kink in the front tube downward and tying into both of the door bars, and you could then tie the lower horizontal into the rockers at multiple points(leave it as it is in your diagram, but tie the bottom of the leg into a horizontal leg that runs the full lenght of the rocker between the front and main hoops and is tied into the rockers).

I'd be interested in the quarters and fenders if I was local... Any idea who's kit that is? Looks kinda like JCR's California Z quarters but the fenders don't look like anything I remember seeing.... almost look like Kamineri flares....

There have been pictures of a yellow Z with a Hemi in it floating around the net for years, but no one ever seemed to know any of the particulars about the car or engine. Pretty sure it wasn't a 426, I always figured it was one of the very early small displacement Hemi's. Hard to tell when there were somewhere in the neighborhood of 14 different displacements offered back in the 50's. 340 six pack might be a nice..... just makes me remember my first car and hate myself for getting rid of it.

They look similar to the American Racing wheels (don't remember the number they identified them with) I had for rain tires on my old ITS car. Back in the 80's a lot of manufactures made nearly identical wheels, so without some kind of casting marks on the back, it's just a wild guess between 4-6 or more different companies.

I hate to state the obvious, but older Dodge Dakotas had the venerable 318 from the factory. Plenty of parts available to work on it to get better gas mileage and/or towing power. I've seen early 90's 2 wheel drives/318's selling for under 4K in fair shape. The best thing about the Dakota is that it is a little larger truck and probably has a higher towing capacity. Plus, you can buy one with a 4 or 6 and swap in a small block using all factory parts with no fabricating or trial and error.

surely you can't forget: 4 who will post the same exact thread on each and every Z related forum on the net and then compare answers to see if one is the one he was looking for.....

Oops, spoke too soon, HB 288 didn't go thru, at least not in this session. It's been carried over to 2007 though.... http://www.hagerty.com/NewsManager/templates/template_adv.aspx?articleid=893&zoneid=3

I read on another car forum a short time ago that there is now a bill in the VA House being considered that will put even more restrictions on the use of Vintage tags....one of them being a mileage limit of no more than 50 miles from your residence. Plus possible State Inspections again...... http://www.ffcobra.com/ubb/ultimatebb.php/ubb/get_topic/f/19/t/001742.html Don't know when they were expected to vote on this, the way they have been whining on the news about extending the session, it may not have been voted on yet....

The Zed Findings rails are quite a bit thicker than stock. Not sure since I've never seen any of Bad Dogs parts, but I'd say they are about the same thickness. I've got some OEM frame rails, and they are paper thin compared to Charlie's ZF rails.

The shipping on that is a real rip off...... I had a new R180 SX diff shipped from OK to VA for under 75 bucks via FedEx Ground IIRC.

The 33 car usually makes the rounds of all the major Z shows in the northeast. I know I drooled on it at the show in Syracuse two years ago, and it was on the track at Watkins Glen during the Z Convention. I don't know the man's name that owns it, but the guys in the New England Z Car Club know him. He's got quite a collection of vintage race cars, and I believe this is not the only BSR car he owns.

I tried plugging the outlet at the front and the elbow at the back of the head once on my ITS car, and it would run hot. I think it most likely was causing some cavitation in the pump, or a hot spot in the head that wasn't receiving a good flow of coolant. I put a hose from the front outlet to the rear of the head and that solved the problem. It may not look as nice, but that would be the way I would suggest.

I've used Eastwoods "Pro" spot weld cutters with good luck so far. Just be sure to use a variable speed drill and be careful as you can end up with a pinpoint hole in the base metal that you'll have to weld back up (or you could use it when you re-weld the parts back together). I've had good luck using one of their stiff (almost chisel like) putty knives (works good for chipping off tar mat too) the same way their panel knife would work. You'll see the link to their panel knife at the botton of the page. http://www.eastwoodco.com/shopping/product/detailmain.jsp?itemID=1160&itemType=PRODUCT&iProductID=1160 Another idea is just to use a small diameter flap disc, clean the area you'll be welding in while grinding off the majority of the spot weld, then use a putty knife or panel knife to separate the panels.