seattlejester

Nvm, I'm an idiot, my final clean must have cleared out the last remainding oil pockets in the bearings, I added a bit of gear oil and it's starting to spin with the axles again. Mod please feel free to delete, I made this in a panic.

So I recently welded my differential. During the entire process I checked and double checked that the axles would keep turning and such. So today, I went out to paint the casing when I found that turning the axles (where the half shafts mount) won't durn the input shaft (where the driveshaft mounts). Like I grab both of the axles and turn them both in the same direction and it won't move. But if I grab the input shaft (where the drive shaft connects) I can spin it with a few fingers in either direction, and both axles move. Before and while I was welding I could turn the pumpkin by turning the output shafts. I can't fathom a reason why this is happening. There's no grinding or anything, it just locks when you try to turn the axles, but spins freely with the drive shaft. Anyone know what's going on?

Z specialties sells only the 14mm option...to get a 12mm hole to a 14mm you hog it out with a 9/16th drill bit. Not too difficult.

I just sent an e-mail to him too, just got around to installing my set and looking for some instructions . When I asked he said they are from the rear of an 85 maxima. If it's impossible to find over there, I'm sure we can send a set over. Looks like they were also called a bluebird u11

More of an autocross build, maybe I will dabble with drift but the lack of angle will probably keep me from being competative. I'm thinking of forgoing the rear sway which means I will still have a bit of body roll in the back, the welded diff should keep me from loosing all my power when one wheel is in the air. Oh and I have a few diffs, so I can swap them out if it's too much for the street, the 4.11 is most likely to see short course duty since daily driving with it will probably be a little irksome, I have to hit the rev limit in third to hit freeway speeds lol.

So there is a strange order to all this. First I'd like the suspension in so I can mount the brakes. I'd like the brakes mounted so I can route the line. I'd also like the fuel box in so I can route the fuel line. Some where in all this I will have to install my differential, or else I'll have to try and slot my diff into the mustache bar, which could be quite an ordeal. So I decided that having the diff all ready for when it is needed would be a good idea. I pulled all the parts I will need from the 280z rear end I took a while back, and removed the half shafts and the oil vent thingy. Then I opened up the 200sx turbo diff, double checked to make sure and it has 37:9 stamped on the gear so indeed a 4.11. Cleaned it up some and started welding. And there we are a welded 4.11. we'll have to see how this all works out. If it turns out the ratio is too high, I always have the mystery R200 or the 3.54 R200 to fall back on, until I source a different drive line.

That she is . So The fenders have been beaten on just hanging around, and I noticed in the darker light that the white wasn't quite as thick as I wanted it. So I wet sanded some of the rough areas and applied a thick coat to sand down later. The passenger side is just too far gone, it had a central crease combined with some weird wavy bits, so just paint for now and add finding a better fender to the future list. Decided to stick with my color scheme... Gold LCA's front and rear and... Silver supporting bits. Put in my rear disc brake bracket today as well. Will have to go pick up some pads for the calipers in the near future. Hopefully can get time to put the rear suspension back in this week, followed by installing the fuel cell and fuel/brake lines. I have this sneaking suspicion that the rear sway bar may end up hitting the fuel cell container and I'll have to forgo it at that point until I can remake the fuel cell.

Well things really got into a groove and I didn't get a chance to take pictures. I had trouble tightening the ball joint to the knuckle as it was just so awkward to grab. Considered buying a vice, when the guy at the store suggested I just use a regular C clamp and a desk. Clamped the LCA to the desk then jammed the knuckle against the clamp and 45lbs was no problem. Struts, Crossmember, Sway bar, and LCA: A friend came over today and helped me hang my suspension. Thank you all for those who offered, but the timing just worked out that he was free and I had everything ready . Cross member went in first, followed by the FLCA. Then the strut assembly was put in. We found the strut kept spinning when tightening the strut top lock nut, but a strap wrench quickly solved that without any damage to the strut. After trying to line the LCA to the strut, we ended up taking the LCA out, attaching it to the strut, then attaching the LCA to the cross member. Next we tried fitting the front sway bar. I have the 1 inch MSA front sway bar, but no matter how we tried, the sway bar wouldn't mount to the LCA. Does the car just have to be on the ground for this? Or do you have to shorten or remove something from the end link? After spending an hour or so trying to get the LCA to straighten out, we found that there just wasn't enough weight to compress the suspension, so put that on hold. Steering Rack: We then moved onto the steering rack. So like most I had knocked off my grease resevoir. On a 240z, the grease resevoir is a M9 size thread. As that is almost impossible to find, I had seen a variety of methods, but I just jammed a M10 Zerk fitting in there. If it leaks I'll just seal around it, really bad form, but it works for now . I had been told my boots were toast and had to be replaced, so I had ordered a set. The aftermarket set we ordered from MSA is a universal type, where you trim the ends to meet your needs. I trimmed off 2 rings, which resulted in quite a bit of a gap. I highly recommend trimming off one ring then test fitting! We managed to tighten down the boots as best as possible, when I noticed the stock boots looked to be in decent shape, just dirty...Well I guess I have replacements. The steering rack bushings really were giving us a hard time, so I boiled some water and placed the bushings in a bowl, what a difference that made! Steering rack went in with very little drama. Then went in the tie rod ends. Still need to adjust the toe, but pretty good for now. (you can see the defeated sway bar lol) Hopefully will get started on the rear, the studs from the nissan van don't want to be pulled in for some reason. I'm going to go and borrow a 200 lb impact gun tomorrow and see if that won't convince it. Stay tuned

The stock brakes will work fine if you service them with a rebuilt caliper, new rotor, and new fluid, especially if it is all stock and restored, doing the toyota caliper upgrade would loose originality. One thing I haven't seen mentioned is that you have to remember there are two sets of calipers, actually 3 depending on what model you ask for. Of the 4 piston variety, there is the S12 and the S12+8, the S12 comes from a 79-85 4x4, while the S12+8 comes from the 86-88 4x4 and I believe 4 runner. The S12 is a simple bolt on upgrade, literally just swap out the caliper, buy a new 240 rotor, search for a larger master cylinder and you are good to go. The S12+8 is wider to accomodate the vented rotor, which will require a spacer (varies between hubs, 240 and 280z have different hubs) and a vented rotor from a 300zx.

Got anti squeal, which meant the calipers could go on. I forgot to keep the hardline from my cores, which meant I had to bend my own. Took me 3 tries, and 6 additional flares with my awesome ridgid double flaring tools, but at the end success! Looks like my 555 ball joint didn't come with a zerk fitting, so I'll be off to harborfreight to purchase those and a grease gun. Waiting for my next paycheck to order fender mirrors and look into door locks again.

Ended up marring my fender with my air hose, so it gives me an excuse to redo the fenders and order some fender mirrors . Wasn't sure if I wanted to do the hubs myself, but I took the plunge. Just need anti-brake squeal grease for the pads tomorrow and I can start remounting the front!

Don't underestimate yourself, you'd be surprsied at what you can do and what doors are still open for you at that age . A little bit of searching yielded the resevoir is actually an expansion resevoir, to hold excess when the steering rack is warm. Looks like some people have just tapped the fitting and placed a pipe fitting. Think I'll try my hand at that a bit. I've always wanted to try my hand at a catch can of some sort.

Maybe when it's finished haha. Finished preparing what I think is the last piece for the front, the steering rack clamps. MSA forgot to ship my steering rack boots, so once those come in I can put everything together. Will have to source a steering rack grease resevoir from somewhere... Started preping the rear, but found one side doesn't spin as easily as the other. I'm hoping that it just needs to be warmed up so the grease loosens up. If not since it will be on the car, I can loosen it by using the car as a counter weight since I can't get it to budge otherwise. Oh how I hope I don't have to do the rears . Since they could potentially be coming back off, just coated them in some black paint to prevent rust for the time being.

Ah, that's how its done, looking forward to more updates .

Looks excellent! Mind if I ask how are you going to weld the the back portions with such tight tolerances? I've always been curious how people manage to do that.

luseboy is correct, msa units. They were on sale for ~100$? a set so I figured I'd spring for a set. Devil: Hmm, must have been the PO, my car has only moved about a foot since my ownership, and that's a vertical foot from jack stands .

^Took my rears off today, managed to free the gland nuts by standing on the LCA and using a pipe wrench and 4 foot breaker bar, came apart pretty easily. Well construction is finally finished. So I decided to get at it yesterday and today. Painted my fenders. Turns out I didn't smooth it as much as I had thought. Another item to throw it in the "good enough for now, will redo later" pile . Loosely assembled my fronts together. The washer they provided looks to be a crush washer, so no rubber ring under the gland nut I guess. Still need to add oil and figure out a way to tighten the gland nut. Spent all afternoon taking the rears apart. Was dreading a stuck rear strut, a few rust loosening blows got them out with no drama, the struts were KYB struts so replaced at some point, but totally blown. Looks like the bearings were replaced at some point as the nuts on the spindle are not peen type nuts. If it starts howling I'll have to eat my words and take care of it, but for now plan is to get it on the road. Weatherstrip kit arrived, hoping that they fixed the door issue. Plan: Finish and install suspension Install and route brakes Install weather strip Route interior and electronics Install exterior Install glass Fix and install driveline We are getting there folks, getting there .

Regarding the tie rods, I did notice the reverse thread, and I ended up just taking it to a shop. Got so fed up with steering and suspension shops not wanting to take a look (called all the local shops), that I just went with a the first shop that would. Ended up costing ~80$ for removing the 2 nuts (apparently 1/2 hour of work at 120$ an hour plus tax and fees)...few days later, my friend informed me I should have just asked him to take care of it at his machine shop for free. Oh, well, lesson learned. We tackled the gland nut at a friends garage. Pipe wrench and a 4 foot leverage arm broke the gland nut free like it was nothing, like laughably easy, I was very surprised as I had imagined it was quite stuck. I'm hoping the rears don't give me much trouble. I did notice that one of the hub locking nuts on the rear looks like the top has been dremeled off. So some work has been done at some point. Since there is still some construction, I can't continue with the project until the water lines and heater and such are finished as the worker needs the space to move back and forth to install the lines. Need one week of sunshine to finish painting the doors, fenders, hood, and hatch. And have placed what I hope to be my second to last order at MSA for the seals and other odds and ends (only the front air dam and random assortment of seals/gaskets left to go).

Spanish bay? Not too familiar with the area.

Went up to canada today, saw a bunch of cars, but I only took shots of ones that tickled my fancy. A clean R32. And of course some datsun love, 260 version, in very good knick. A very cool rally spec with studded tires and all. And a very neat flared Z. Only thing I was picky with was wheel fitment, running massive spacers to get the +0 konig rims to fit. But looked great. Back to work starting next week

Well I tried doing the front bearings. Placed the races in the freezer, bought a race bearing drift set, and ran down to install them. Got both outer races in without much to drama, even managed to get one of the inner races, but alas, I met failure when I met the last race. By the time I got around to the last one, it had warmed up just enough that it was not going in flat. When I tapped it back out, it came out in 4 pieces. Luckily the local o'reiley had the fronts instock, so I bought one and put it in the freezer for round 2. I feared the worst, but literally popped in with 3 light taps and 3 big blows. Decided I should start getting all the pieces ready to install, so installed the FLCA bushings. Best way I found was to insert the fatter bushing, push in the metal rod, than place the top shorter half on the metal rod. Afterwords, use a press, and finish the task without any drama. For the hubs. Gently tap in the new stud after extracting the old one. Place washers (1/2inch washers are much cheaper and I found 4 is enough for my case) to act as a spacer for the non threaded portion of the stud and to act as a bearing as to not scratch your brand new paint job. Use a rattle gun to pull the stud in using an open ended lug nut from napa (~2$). Pull in until stud is flush with the bottom of the hub, my rattle gun is limited to 40 psi via a regulator to prevent stripping the stud. At this point torque it with a torque wrench. I've been told it's ~80-90lbs (still looking up on that). Whatever you choose, make sure to retorque your wheels after driving a while, just in case they settle in a little more.

^ 600 bones...ebay has the door locks for ~50, but no hatch lock. I've been running into the same problem, lots of people advertise doing automotive locks, but they really only do key removal and lock replacement.

Just can't get the bloody nuts loose to take the tie rod off and most service places don't deal with problems like that .

Hopefully I can use some help by then (finals end on the 12th for me ). I just have this sneaking suspicion that the rocker bars are going block the door handle and end up trapping me in the car. We'll have to see once the door is all rebuilt and such. Still stuck on steering rack, will have to call some places and see if they can help, or else I'll just weld a huge bar to it and try breaking it free. Question of the day, where would I source the little white piece that holds the bar to the lock? Managed to break one pulling it out. You can see what I'm referring to in this ebay add. It's the little white nubin type thing. link

Mine in progress, I have to say that I wish I had the option instead of having my decision made for me. But I must say, if you are going with the delete, the car really needs to lowered. Preferably with flares . Love the color Philly!