seattlejester

I got one with my car, which i bought on craigslist ratio unknown. 1 from pick and pull, took 2 hours. 1 4.11 diff off of craigslist as well. So 66% craigslist, 33% pick and pull .

More like 15 or 20mm no? The xxr 527's barely clear and they're 8.25 by et 0.

Sorry not sure if you are still curious, but I'm quite bored and I feel I may be able to shed some light as I have experience in many of the aspects needed to answer the question and have contemplated this as well. I apologize for the complete history, overload of information, etc. N2O-referred to as Nitrous Oxide, NOS (brand name of nitrous injection maker, popularized by fast and the furious franchise), laughing gas, or Nitrous N2-nitrogen, exists as a diatomic molecule N2 in atmosphere, can be compressed to very high pressures without condensing into liquid O2-oxygen, similar property as N2, except that liquid oxygen is highly explosive, and at increased pressures can cause explosions with the addition of any small organic matter. CO2-similar characteristics as N2O, in that it is liquid above 800psi, used in fire extinguishers and paintball. Nitrous Oxide in cars: I'm not sure how familiar you are with nitrous, but nitrous works because of it's chemical make up, N2O. By mass nitrous oxide provides ~ 16/44 or 36% oxygen, while the regular earth atmosphere provides ~20%, thus combining the increased presence of oxygen with additional fuel you can in essence burn more fuel per stroke, similar to a larger displacement engine thus more power. Nitrous oxide is also a liquid at pressures higher than 850 psi, thus the liquid converts to gas as the vapor is drawn from the tank, allowing for a relatively large amount of steadily regulated pressure to be present for a given mass of N2O. Thus when you get a nitrous tank filled they usually charge you by the pound not the PSI. Due to it's hilarious nature (laughing gas ) N2O for automotive use is usually combined with another non reactive compound so it cannot be used for recreational purposes. Nitrogen in Paintball: Nitrogen came onto the paintball scene a while back in the 90's thanks to Airgun designs president, Tom Kaye. Previously all markers had used CO2, due to it's wide spread availability, available at most fire departments or fire extinguisher stores, due to the same characteristic as N2O, liquid at pressures above 800 psi, self regulating. Unfortunately due to CO2's frigid nature, this caused difficulty with rubber o-rings (they would shrink a great deal) and as liquid converted to gas it would absorb heat from the exterior of the container, slowing the process, thus the advent of the more friendly, faster charging N2 aka HPA tank. The first tank designed was called a nitrogen tank as it was mostly filled with atmospheric nitrogen ~70%? maybe more and gained the terminology, in reality the nitrogen tanks used in paintball today are filled using a compressor to compress the atmosphere. This gained a lot of popularity as higher end markers could be made with easier to machine metals that weren't as effected by the frigid nature and could use more advanced designs with more sealed passages in a given mechanism and markers could achieve much higher firing rates with faster more stable recharges. The benefit of weight is also a bonus, as filling a N2 tank or (HPA tank as they are sometimes called) will not increase that mass to a significant degree (N2 and O2 don't become liquid until much higher pressures), while a 20oz co2 tank would yield a 20oz increase per fill. While paintball tanks are rated for ~5000psi in the carbon fiber variety, as N2O is measured in pounds, the benefit of the increased pressure vs size is lost. So to answer your question a N2/HPA tank would be just about as useful as a co2 tank or nitrous oxide tank of similar size in providing a system for nitrous, except that it may fail during the fill process (CO2 is filled by employing a 2 way valve, most HPA tanks are filled using a nipple located on the side). However, if one were determined one may possibly be able to employ a CO2 tank to run a very limited nitrous setup, the benefit would be that a system could probably be built for 50~60$ as paintball parts are very easy to come by used, although filling it may prove to be a challenge. And to my knowledge a 10 lb tank of nitrous oxide will net 5 10 second passes with a bottle warmer so a 20oz paintball tank (the largest they come in) would yield only one pass, only useful as a sneaky pete type setup. Off track: So if you are really bored, you may contemplate a way to use the benefit of High Pressure instead of liquid gas, and the way to employ that would be to charge an intake tube as a turbo charger does, or to run high pressured air through the turbocharger hot side. The benefit would be room temp or colder charged air available at ones finger tips, and no need for an exhaust manifold, but upon doing the math I'm sure this system would also only work on a limited basis due to the volume requirement, even if it sufficed to work for a given amount of time, a paintball compressor costs many thousands for a quick system. Interestingly enough, the creator of the N2 tank, Mr. Kaye, recently released an affordable booster setup for home use under 500$ just a few years ago. The most bang for your buck would probably come from liquid Oxygen tank, but due to its highly explosive nature this kind of setup will most likely never come into existence, for instance if a bug managed to crawl into a fitting and was missed, the small amount of organic matter, coupled with high pressure oxygen, would spontaneously combust generating an explosion directly attached to an oxidant and most likely near a fuel source.

So not sure if anybody saw this coming...but the passenger side is different. It has this little cover, and underneath the cover is an intricate layer of metal with the purpose of providing fresh air for the fan to pull through when using the heater. After much contemplation, probably about half an hour or more going back and forth, feeling around, generally debauchery, and swearing, I came up with this solution. Mount it like I did for the harnesses. And voila, can't really do the cross strut brace until the engine and hood are in to check clearance, but a tad more body work to do, a little more welding up front, the rear strut brace, and the fuel cell cover plate flap, and we'll be on our way .

Helped a friend change his pads out to make a little extra cash so not quite as much progress as I had hoped but... Managed to whip out the main components and drill most of the holes. Haven't quite finished the driver side, but to give a better idea of what it looks like.

It's great! A few relaxing days of working/sleeping until grades are posted . Wow I'm really embarrassed. It's been far too long and I think I'm confusing parts up. Now that I think about it, what I cut off was the bracket that holds the hardline, junction that feeds the slave, since I have a full hardline kit I believe this is my subconscious trying to sabotage my plans to move ahead

NWN is pretty useful for finding tires and wheels . I'll hopefully have a more fruitful update this weekend. I finished my last final today, thought I'd head into work and grab a few hours before I head home to sleep a bit. Then wake up and finish up the passenger side I never finished. Body filler is almost done, just need to putty some small holes. I'm pretty sure I have enough primer and undercoat, just need to grab some truck bedding to finish off the interior. Started spraying the rear end and realized that I couldn't spray the engine bay until I mount the clutch slave cylinder (bracket was welded on somewhere), realized I couldn't mount the clutch slave without knowing where it's suppose to go (if I remember correctly, it goes somewhere on the frame rail near the battery tray?) trying to find a bunch of reference pictures for engine bays and transmission tunnel. Setting up some deals to either buy some watanabe's or maybe a 280zx turbo driveline. I'm hoping that the zx is in really poor condition and I end up just walking away from it, I really don't think I'm ready to push back my start date anymore.

Date pushed back to January-February for the 4x114.3 US launch.

Spoke with kim and did a bit of research. For now the RBK are coming out in 15x8 and in 4x100 +0 in silver and black, you can actually order these now in the states. I'm still waiting to here back on the sizes available in the 4x114.3 size, so far looks like 15's. Realistically I don't think these will be coming out in 17's or larger, while there may be an interest, the # of people buying them won't be worth the cost of production (you have to understand if every other car on this forum has them, it doesn't mean a whole lot compared to all makes and models). Realistically they would make way more making wheels exclusively for 80-90 honda's. I have a set of watanabe's on hold from a local seller until these are announced .

Hmm using one of the tents from cosco as a painting booth is pretty neat. I just bought a few tarps to convert my garage into one . Poor Z... Car shall be primered this week or bust! I have no more excuses.

Cockerstar: Beers sound good, always love shooting the breeze. Pick a time and place after next week. Same cockerstar on mcb? Litman: I see, I did the same but I guess I'm worried that they might fall over if I try to extract them and be lost inside the frame rail. Probably being far too paranoid again.

Wow, now that is well built (wish they had a drool emotiocon)! I can't even fathom how much that would weigh. It looks feather light! Billet aluminum, tie-rod ends, and carbon fiber tubes, things I can only dream of at this point. Mind if I ask how you attached your bedding posts to the bottom plate?

The stock location was run through the trans tunnel along the passenger side (at least for my year), just not sure how much room I have to play with to mount the proportioning valve and such. I s'pose I could just go stare at my transmission for a bit. 1/2 way there . Built properly with bedding posts, I have a replacement plate with my new roll bar, but I used the old one as a spacer/template. Probably going to hold off on the cross brace until I get the hood on so I can measure clearance. 3 more things on the checklist before reassembly .

Jealous, I have fuel line, studs, and roll bar paint, just chilling in my car, waiting to be used/installed, but really haven't had time to do so. I'm in dead week at the moment, but I'll try and upload a few teasers, I'll probably be 1/2 done with the item in question tonight. I've been contemplating painting all the interior scaffolding white, managed to glimpse a 240sx yesterday with white scaffolding and I have to say it wasn't too gaudy as I had imagined. I'll probably need an experienced set of eyes to tell me how much room I have in the trans tunnel for routing fuel/brake lines, clutch slave, and e-brake. Probably after finals week, if one of you kind gents don't mind, lunch/drinks are on me.

The price is excellent, but once again, I can't stress that you should be willing to walkaway if you're not prepared to handle rust/or any big problems. Then again, for 300$ I'd take it if I had the space haha.

You're giving me a misleading sense of hope. You are one lucky duck!

Wow 300$, I'd buy that just for parts lol.

Welcome, I would highly suggest scrolling down if you are not sure what to search for as there are very related threads that cover this topic, as I was shown kindness, I'll pay it forward. The transmission is not difficult to source, there are very many available both in junkyards and craigslist (240z, 260z, 280z, 280zx trannies are all interchangeable with very slight modifications), heck many people will toss the 4-speed in favor of the 5, so many stout 4-speeds are roaming around. The thing that may cause a little concern is the drive shaft, as many people do like to hold onto them, but once again easily available at a junkyard. Spend a few hours browsing the forum and reading some build threads, and you will definitely know what to look out for. Biggest two pieces of advise I can give you, first is to take someone who knows what they are looking for/has experience buying/restoring classics, and the second is be very willing to walk away, I wish I had, many Z's pop up and some few gems come up from time to time (after purchasing mine, both an RB swapped and a V8 swapped vehicles well within my budget appeared on the scene), don't be stuck with a turd. While it can be well meaning, don't take the owner's word at face value, probe and look around, lift up carpets, test everything. What you want is a solid chassis with no structural rust or damage. Light surface rust is ok, but if you don't know how to differentiate, take someone who does. The running gear is much less of a concern. If a restoration is desired, completeness of the interior is second after a very sound chassis, as certain interior pieces are very very expensive/hard to find. Be willing to pay about 2k (probably more) for a solid chassis, more for a strong runner, don't be upset or surprised when there's a lot of work to be done on a 500$ car. There was a thread on here where someone looked up pictures of general damage areas, the project hugo videos on youtube is a perfect example of most of the damage areas. Once again if you don't know what these areas are, take someone who does, it will be the best 10-50$ you will spend. Areas to check: Rear Doglegs Floors (especially near the firewall) Seat mounts Battery Tray Fenders Rear Hatch Sill Spare Tire Well Frame Rails Engine Bay Rails Swaybar Mounts Crossmember Mounts Rockers Things to avoid: Car sitting out in the elements Fauna growing on and in car Water presence inside vehicle For more specific help, take high quality pictures, and post them via a photobucket or similar host, it makes the photos much easier to access.

The little project is put on hold for a few days as my sister's car had a blow out, so while I'm taking care of the tire I figure I'll winterize her car. But, I'm picking up the last piece for the project later today or tomorrow so updates soon . I'm in the downtown area, I'll hopefully be tearing the suspension down and have the put together to hang next week, so I may be bothering someone for help if my friends are busy, but if anyone needs a small task (no new floors or frame rails, haha) please feel free to ask, I do have a few tools, lol. 3 more weeks of school, hopefully a full week of work to build funds, then complete devotion to the Z.

Edit: sorry video link turned up bad, will continue the search

OmakZ I may take you up on that. Hoping to hang the suspension and such soon, and it would be nice to have a pair of eyes that knows what a finished Z will have when I'm routing the fuel and brake lines. But a Z caravan will have to wait till next year haha, welding gas doesn't go as far as it did during the summer, all these trips to get my gas refilled is killing my budget . But I have a fairly big update coming up soon, I got side tracked for the last week, but the reward should be very cool (at least to me, possibly some locals).

Sorry if it seemed harsh, (I hope your not upset, since the comment wasn't directed towards yourself). I felt the thread was on a good track as the basis for the mod was sound and he attempted to do some measurements by measuring the deflection in the door, then he chose to be more entertaining, and then finished it off by saying how it difinitively works with how he felt instead of some sort of data, he provided quite a few anecdotes. I mean a lot of the statements could have come from other factors, like his front brake pads wore down, he added more weight to the vehicle so it's settled more and ironing out the bumps, etc etc. Had a statistics teacher who left an impression on me.

^I was a bit disappointed that his conclusion was based on feelings. I'm kind of curious as to the mentality of the use of foam. We found out that epoxy resin soaked core mat would outperform it's counterpart of a similar weight in steel at handling load by measuring angles of deflection at various load points (in tons). <-That was actually a fascinating study as it compared different structures (tubes, square tubes, planks) and the only real downfall is that core mat reinforced carbon fiber was it would delaminate and fracture at it's limit, where steel would bend as long as the force was applied gradually. So wouldn't it be a more beneficial to reinforce areas with long sheets of carbon fiber, or core mat if one is on a budget, and fill the cavity with an epoxy resin? The cavity would be waterproof and significantly stiffer. /rant induced by PO.

I do have a soldering set somewhere, it's very low tech tho. Tools are free to use, just pm me for more info.

Let me know if you need any tools/help I'm about to tackle all the bushings myself.