seattlejester

Seems like you have had a run of bad luck. My rear brake kit was from a guy in las vegas. His kit used the maxima rear caliper and a turned down 300zx rotor as you describe. There is indeed about a one inch (or so) gap from the center of the rotor to the caliper, but the caliper makes full contact as far as I can tell, just makes contact a bit further than you might be used to. If you need to try out a turned down 300zx rotor I do have a spare set if you want to fit them, but I think you will find the gap is still there.

Depends on the pitting (do you have a picture?), but would cutting it out and patching it be out of the question? The stock floors aren't too thick and if there's visible pitting, enough to concern you it means there really isn't very much material at the bottom of the pit. I'd hate to see a hole when a rock bounces up and hits the thin part For seam sealer I went to NAPA and grabbed the black generic stuff. They have 2k sealers which are gaurenteed not to shrink, absorbs paint etc, but just like paint that are pretty pricey. At 3-5$ a tube the generic stuff has worked great for me, two tubes for the whole car and no leaks, shrinkage, or paint chips to speak of. I do advise clean disposable gloves and a grout shaper tool to make nice smooth seals.

That's the dilemma I'm at right now, both cars are what I would like, 1982 turbo model, but I can swing the auto for much less and my current transmission doesn't whine or grind. Price difference is probably 700$ or so, and I've seen rebuilt T-5's go for quite a bit less. Heck I even have a T-5 in parts if I want to rebuild it myself I suppose.

Pac_man: I can break my 215/60/15 falkens loose in third in the rain with my gear set, but in the dry they barely squeak, I'm looking forward to some neck breaking acceleration when some wider tires grip, wondering if my half-shafts, transmission, or clutch will go first! Gollum: I feel the same way when I replace tires, but I figure from now on I can just save decent tires and throw them on a set of spare rims to tear up on a track day or at a drift/gymkhana event without feeling any guilt, haha. Blu: actually you do bring up a good point, I'm finding wide tire sizes with acceptable sidewall heights in the 15 inch category quite difficult, I may have to look around at my rim choice now, or else run pedestrian tires and switch to a set of track rims or something of the sort for events. Story time! So of the four or five faults creature comfort faults of my car I crossed one off the list yesterday! My gas gauge has never worked since I installed the fuel cell and such. On occasion it would rise to 0-2 percent, and once and only once did I see it at 5%. It never really seemed to follow any trend and read independent of how much fuel I had in the car. So I decided I would test everything and if needed run a new lead to the cell to replace all the old wiring. Turned on the car, checked the handy voltmeter I have installed, 12 volts with the car not running, fully acceptable. A few gallons in the cell. Turned off the fuel pump and kill switch so I don't have any hot wires back there while I'm working with the wiring and cell, Gauge is only getting 0.24 volts reading 0%. With the wiring unplugged... So full sweep from 0-99 is possible. Next I tested the sender, with the power and ground wire undone... 2.5 Ohms (my gauge and sender are both 0 ohm empty 90 ohm full, opposite of stock setup). Added 2 more gallons of fuel...and surprisingly, no difference, the sender was bad! I took a break and chatted with Summit, I bought the cell a while back, but I had only used it for a couple of months. The service rep said the senders could go back and gave me the wrong replacement part number, than a correct one. 106$ for the replacement sender, and the fuel cell only cost me 160$! I figured if I was going to replace it anyway I might as well play with the old one. Took out the sender and low and behold, the float was stuck! I unbent the locking tab at the bottom and slid the float out, on this style of sender the float just has a small metal bar that slides up and down a board and I'm guessing generates a type of halls effect between two of the wires and generates a different resistance based on the height of the float. So I carefully sanded down the float until it slid smoothly in the tube. Put it all back together and... Success! So I decided to go for a test drive to test the newly working gauge. Turned on the fuel pump and pulled the car out of the garage, (I think some of you may notice what I forgot...). It is fairly surprising how much the fuel level fluctuates without baffles or foam, I was reading anywhere from 12-45% based on incline. After a block from my house the car just shut off mid turn in an intersection. Limped to the side of the road, and turned on my hazards and kind of regretted my choice of leaving the house while it was raining at night...then after checking the fuses and such, I realized I forgot the kill switch...at least I know that if someone takes my car, they won't make it more than a block . Next few minor things: Adjust driver door a little more. Make turn signal indicator pod. Install hydro e-brake. Readjust cable parking brake. Wire in and install heaters. Install grill. Paint and reinforce front airdam. Mockup interim flares (I couldn't resist some cheap universal ones, a friend of mine fiberglasses, so I figure if they are horrible, they can at least be used for starting the buck). Extend exhaust tip and inspect hatch gaskets. Next important things: Have u-joints and rear wheel bearings inspected. Order new drive shaft. Get alignment and wheels balanced. Install wideband o2 and air/fuel gauge . Hopefully the deal for a turbo 280zx that I am looking at goes through and I can get that project going. The question is do I spend a little more for the 5-speed with the T-5, or do I just go with the auto for the less abused engine, and search for a rebuilt T-5 down the road? I also received my quote from TTT for all the coilover bits and I'm looking forward to going ahead with that in the near future as well.

I have a pneumatic one replacing the e-brake. Works ok, but I don't trust it all the time. I park with the line lock in place and the car in gear, and sometimes when I pull the car out of gear it will slowly creep forward on a cold night.

Update: A friend came over last week and we worked on the horrible fittings doors and some of my body panels. I had found some shims in my door parts tray so I slid those under the bottom hinge and they made quite a bit of difference! The passenger door now closes with minimal effort, and the driver door seats fairly well against the body. We got my hood to securely latch and sanded and painted some of the rougher parts of the car. I plan on doing coil overs in the near future, so I decided I was done looking at the tall ride height caused by the 280z springs so I started cutting them. The fronts really are limited by the suspension travel. I have poly bump stops in front and about an inch or two of strut travel before I hit them. The rears actually do have quite a bit of travel remaining, but I think it's plenty low. Note on an incline, and note my terrible 1 story elevation drive way! Still need to install the front grill, although the bolt size is beginning to be a frustration, M4 is too small, M6 is too big, M5 doesn't seem like it wants to thread. Strangely I started hearing a clunk when I let off the clutch and the transmission grabs. Since I have an RT mount and the poly diff mount underneath, I'm leaning towards my U-Joints going out on the half-shafts. Hoping to take it to my local shop and have them sort out the rear bearings, and u-joints, while they tackle some warranty work for my exhaust. I am leaning towards going back to my original scheme and blacking out the chrome bits and painting the front airdam white. But after brushing all the stainless steel I think I will give it some time to grow on me before I tear all the shiny bits away. Now I have been fairly deep in thought for the past month. Officially the car is almost done. The small leaks should be easy to track down, it looks presentable, and with a few more seals checked and the exhaust massaged the fumes should not be a problem. With the heater installed, chokes hooked up, e-brake adjusted, and the turn signal cabin indicators the car will be down right dailyable. But something doesn't feel quite right, sometimes I ponder selling it, and sometimes I just stand and stare and awe at how cool the car is, but I don't think I quite have the fizzing sensation (according to James May) that I think most people have with their car. So this all goes back to my visit to zspecialties. Oliver helped me realize that my car was far from perfect, and that for some reason I was hesitating on doing what I had planned with it. I bought it for 600$ knowing it had problems, and wanted to thrash and learn on it and instead I had been keeping it in the garage. Following everything I had read, I built a very good tier/stage 1 car by my view. The 5 speed and the 4.11 diff made flying through the gears a joy and you would get acceleration even in top gear! The spring strut combo was very functional but very tall, the rawness was great as well, nothing quite like an L-6 wailing near redline. But, I had fallen away from what I had wanted when I joined HBZ, this car is nothing quite deserving of a hybridz label quite yet. So I am going to go to as many motorsport events I can in the next few months (autox, lapping days, even drift school) to learn about the car hopefully spy on some others, and I will also start moving towards gathering the parts I will need to step up my game a little bit, more suspension, more tire, and in turn more power. I think I will have to move in the next few months, so it will be a balance of trying to consolidate and finish projects before I run out of space. For suspension: I am leaning towards the proven ground control system with weld in camber plates with 200F 225R springs, with tokico illumina toyota MR2 struts in front and 240z front struts in the rear. Adjustable LCA's coming in the future, with the slotted cross member and shorter steering knuckle and bump steer spacer combo from arizona Z car coming very soon after. For tires: I am looking at 15x9 -15et wheels with meaty tires sitting underneath flares, no stretch here. For power: I am looking at a very mildly built L28ET. I've found a stock 82 turbo zx donor, and if compression checks out I think I may find it hard to justify rebuilding the motor for my modest 250whp goal.

Hah, I can finally do this!

I was just thinking about this today! Looks very good, very similar to the now defunct PDK front mount. I am running the a similar setup as well, same tubing, plate thickness, hardware, etc. I found it easier to have the bolts dangle down from the top when I installed my sway bar, but looks very clean.

I bought mine from johnc a while back, perhaps he still has a set?

I agree the thermoquiets are pretty darn good pads, and you can't forget the lifetime warranty if you buy it through O'reileys or NAPA. I'm slightly confused as to all the effort though. Is the RX-7 pad have more surface area? I walked into my local O'reileys and had a set the next day for the Toyota 4x4 caliper.

Impact gun for rear fly wheel bolts, and I waited till the motor was in the car to torque the crank pulley bolt using the transmission in fifth gear as a stop (wheels chocked). The alternative/correct method for off the car rebuild would be a flywheel locking block.

I have about an hour of driving a manual over 8 years before this car so cut me a break, eh ? I did lower it last weekend as part of my to do list, I just really enjoyed the help it provided on hill starts . And I think a lot of things should actually be learned with a crutch. Sink or swim can be pretty rough experienced first hand. Anyways, so I've been addressing some of the issues lately. As well as looking at some things I shouldn't have... I split the fuel overflow as I was told that can cause some richness issues, and adjusted the clutch to be a little more friendly. Ordered a hydraulic e-brake to replace the line lock, as it will actually lock regardless of temperature (I hope). I even got around to readjusting my signal stalk using zeiss's video. I thought, "well I won't loose the ball and spring like he did, I'll work in my living room on a clean desk." And it seems like the karma fairy heard me and within a minute I lost the ball bearing. Luckily his little blurb on getting new ball bearings from zerk fittings saved the day. One problem everyone has been pointing out is my super touchy throttle. Initial push on the throttle was very stiff, and then it would let go, making for a very jerky action, making it very difficult to drive. A little googling showed this is actually a fairly common problem, with solutions ranging from a little bit of grease, all the way to cutting and welding the linkage arm at a different angle, and even replacing the linkage system altogether. I decided I would try some of the mild methods first before resorting to some other extreme methods. I pulled the swivel linkage from the firewall and liberally greased that, noticed it was bent a little and straightened it out. Greased the bearings on the carb and even went with the hockey stick bend on the final linkage from the throttle to both carbs. And now the car revs very smoothly! I still think I have a small leak somewhere, still have to trace that to it's source, but the car is fairly drivable. I bought some ceramic heaters which look absolutely silly but will keep the windshield clear so I will have to look into mounting those either skip the form and mount on the dash, or try and make a funnel and mount it underneath to blow air through the stock vents. Another thing on the list is a carbon monoxide meter, when I drive I usually don't notice, but if I'm testing something in the garage, it becomes quite unbearable very quickly, for 30-100$ I think it's pretty fool hardy not to have one until I'm 100% sure the cabin is CO free. I don't think I will update for another two weeks as I look into the future of what I want for this car. Will update with pictures later tonight.

Packwood is amazingly gorgeous, I'm looking to go out there more often this year. The one solo 2 event I went to a while back I had schroth harnesses going to factory anchor points in my other car and the tech guy did not even blink an eye. From what I recall there were only one or two people running a harness bar (others had roll bars and cages), and I don't think they were hassled. John, out of curiosity where would be safe locations to mount a bar?

Oh I have done quite a bit of searching here and there on this subject so I think I can lend a hand. I think the swastikas are 15x6.5? My set was 100$, very cheap, good offset. If you have stock rear drums, you can run Toyota Supra/Celica rims at 14x6 they are very cheap only downfall is that they don't fit the fronts. A lot of American Racing rims came in 4x4.5 with near zero offset. I believe some old mustangs also had the 4x4.5, old mustang rallye rims are usually 15x7 or 8 steelies with near zero offset. I check the local AE86 forums (usually 15 and under) and Drifting forums (usually 17 and up), it's where I find some pretty good deals, and some I kick myself for missing (2 watanabe's for 200, a set of eagles, advan oni's etc)

He sure is! But the car feels quite a bit better now, he sold me a check valve for my brake booster as well as a tougher hose and the brakes feel very firm from the start, and the hose on the distributor must have been leaking because after I replaced it, the car seriously pulls quite a bit harder. I hear ya on the doors. I'm going to try and give it a real serious effort with rulers, shims, and all that jazz and see if it pays off. For the windows I'm thinking of making some spares in lexan so I can slam to my hearts content. And I think I will seam seal the windshield gasket to fill the gaps. Immediate goal for this weekend is to get the car running a tad better, lowering the idle (I've had it set a little high so I don't stall, a very neat little trick ), adding the chokes, re sync the carbs, separate fuel overflow lines (apparently having them linked can cause a rich issue), leaning out the fuel mixture, setting floats, replace air filter, adjusting timing and maybe even throw in a valve to adjust the distributor advance.

Hmm looks like my post never made it. I got my weatherstripping from the local pick and pull, 5$ for all 4 doors. I was really tired of slamming my door and this seemed to help some (for the time being, more on that later). So with MLK day off, I decided I would try and take my car to a local shop for it to be looked over. Drove over to a friends and had him give me his first impressions, since he was familiar with a manual. Somewhat startling throttle (strong resistance in the beginningl), low brake engagement point, and high clutch engagement were what we agreed on. From his house on the way to the shop I noticed my alternator once again slowly running down with my voltage dropping from 14 down to 13 then all the way down to 11.X. I thought I was facing brown out with so I tried to give it some revs at a stop and stalled, the battery was drained and didn't have enough juice to get started. Luckily the people behind me were nice and drove around, and my friend popped out, pushed the car around the corner and I threw it in first and got the car going again. We literally limped our way to the shop but we made it. For those of you unfamiliar with the area, other than the few local part hoarders (where I purchased the glass, diff, and many other tid bits), there is Z specialties. Owner greeted us and we got right around to looking at the car. He had quite a few cars, some very much so parts cars, but others in very good nick! Oliver the owner is very knowledgeable and pointed out a lot of shortcomings that I just had not noticed and had most of the parts to replace pieces here and there. He even pointed out that the precision kits were quite well made and that in fact the fault usually was with the door alignment. He installed a replacement alternator (a stud on the stock one had rattled loose on the inside of the housing, the brakes were adjusted, and the throttle was lubed and such, the car was tweaked so much that I stalled trying to drive the car off the lot! Armed with new knowledge and motivation I will start to tackle the issues I faced on the trip: The doors and body panels not lining up. Windows not winding up all the way. The right turn signal could not be used as the autocancel stub was sticking right where the signal wanted to engage at a straight line, I would have to turn the wheel a little left or right before signalling for a right turn. Front right turn signal would not work. Wouldn't be able to tell when the signal was still on (after market tach, exhaust too loud to hear relay) Lack of heater made driving around very cold. Low grunt in the mid range power band Lack of brake pedal feel Really slow cold starts Running rich? Some have been addressed, and some I have parts/clear direction to address them. Will update at a more sane time. Made it home from a 100 mile trip with minor issues, so good news there. 400 miles to go before changing my oil and taking the car up to redline for the first time .

Cold isn't the problem it's the rain! Have 2 sources for a window so I should have one by either tonight or the end of the week. Figure while I have the interior seats out, really work on the parking brake, sand down the door and respray, make up my own door cards, touch up some interior paint, and install my kia weatherstripping I picked up, (5$ for all 4 doors ). Hopefully won't happen again with the new weatherstripping installed. Lord knows I am skeptical about closing any car door after seeing that happen.

Thanks for the advice! I sure will try and practice, I found a nice hill to practice on with a pull off lane, so I can practice getting it in gear and roll back without having to worry much just need to scout some places where I won't be a bother. Tonight's plan was to fix the E-brake and tighten down/seal some potential rust areas. So I lengthened the arm, which had the unfortunate side effect of making it harder to pull the lever, but I figured I would give it a shot. Pulled down my drive way, but no dice, car just kept rolling down. Works fine on a flat surface, but add some incline and it seems to struggle to keep the car in place. I may have to either re work my solution or just ditch it for a hydraulic setup. So good news! My window is no longer hard to wind up! I decided after practice I would pay my parents a visit, rolled up to their house and decided I would wind up my windows (first time car would sit outside). They were being a real bugger but I managed to get them up, and as usual slammed my door shut, before I could stop myself, there was my window all over the street. We swept up the street a bit and I just finished vacuuming the car. Going to have to source a new window, and probably take out the seats to get all the glass bits.

Addressed some problems today. Wipers: So I took out my wiper motor to fit the replacement to find one of the screws had snapped. Put in the replacement motor and to my chagrin, the same thing happened--blown fuse. I decided to put in a more modern fuse holder for the wiper assembly with a 5 amp up rated fuse up to 25 amps. The motor struggled and a little smoke came up, immediately shut down the car. So I went back replaced another screw, and went back to my wiring diagram. Atlantic Z had left one of the wires undone, so I undid that wire (I believe blue-white, the one that had smoked). This wire sends a signal to stop the wipers at the bottom position. So either the alignment and replacement screw had fixed the wiper problem, or the blue white wire causes some kind of issue. I will look at it later, but with the wire disconnected wipers work fine. Oil leaks: So there was my problem, flipped valve cover gasket...I was so focused on aligning the back (it was hitting a cam tower), I had neglected to look at the front. Bloody stupid. Drivability: So I am still learning how to drive the car, there is this fear of practicing to far away and running into a problem, and this fear of practicing in the city and holding people up. A welded diff makes things quite interesting. And the quick throttle response makes maintaining rpm quite difficult, the 4.11 diff doesn't help, but it is giving me some shift practice. Would bumping up the throttle help some?

Sooooo, about time for an update. I received a new camera so I have been taking pictures with that, and I just never really got around to uploading them till now. This is going to be a long one. Pretty much the voyage did not happen 2 weeks ago. Two friends came over and we prepped, but just ran into problem after problem. Wipers: I had bought new wiper blades for the little voyage, after putting them on, we found the motor could barely move, and soon enough it popped a fuse. Taking the wipers off and having the wipers in the air we would get a few swipes and then the fuse would blow again. Took apart the wiring thinking it was resistance in the plugs, cut the plugs off and wired in new spades. Tried it again and fuse was blown again. Took the motor out of the car and when I connected it to the battery I got one good rotation, and nothing. Looks like I picked a bad motor from the pick and pull . Hood: As cool as it is to rock the no hood, I really did not want to attract more attention then the open headers would already bring me. The PO had welded the previous hood hinges so I had taken it apart to gingerly remove them from the vehicle. I had planned ahead and had bought a spare assembly but boy was it a chore to try and line the hood up. I definitely have some issues with my panel alignment, there is a good cm get between the fenders and the hood. Not to mention it would not latch correctly, only the hook would latch, but the hood would not lock. Artsy friend took the pictures, don't worry about the floor its clean now! Rear Deck Seal: This actually worked out pretty well, the gasket does not go on how I thought it should, but after adding some weather strip cement, it brought out my trunk to being almost level with the body lines, finally some good news! Inspection Covers: Further plays on my fenders not being aligned correctly, with the covers bolted on, they would not close, and I really did not feel like making the voyage in the rain with exposed battery terminals so I aborted the whole ordeal. Combined with my duct taped windshield gasket, lack of mirrors, loose sway bar and steering rack, I called it off. I spent the following week working on the windshield gasket, managed to put in the chrome trim, which pushed out the edges a tad, but not nearly enough to make it leak free. I then tightened down the steering rack to tie rods, roughly set my alignment, tightened my sway bar, and bolted on the fender mirrors and made the trip Start of the trip (that's all at idle, almost o revs given!) , car sat at the shop over new years and I picked it up on tuesday. She lost some of her character, but at least I can drive her now! The instant response of the carbs is almost ridiculous, a touch of the throttle and the engine is singing at 3-4k rpm, combined with the 4.11 diff she just takes right off, and I have to shift before I can even think about looking at the speedo, just a real fun ride. On wednesday I decided to take her out for a spin, to grab some gas to see if I can trigger my sender to give me a reading of more than 0. Ran down to the local station, put in some gas only to find to my dismay, no reading. Somewhere my sending wires are confused. Found out an interesting problem I have never dealt with before, when you are on a hill the weight of the car compresses the rear springs a tad more, in essence shortening the length of the parking brake cable. On my way back when I had stalled on the hill up to my garage and my neighbors were at the bottom of the driveway chatting, pulling the parking brake did nothing to keep the car from rolling down the hill. Ended up giving a bit of over throttle and dropped the clutch and squeaked the wheels (did I mention this is my first manual?). Internal adjustments make it a breeze to adjust, but somewhere along the line I must have lost the travel that the cable travels. I think I'll increase the lever arm so the cable is pulled a greater distance, hopefully that will solve my problem. After that embarrassing episode, I took a step back to admire my somewhat road worthy car. Only to find some fluid on the ground where I had stalled. Worriedly I ran my hand through the two patches, one was distinctively oily and the other distinctively coolant colored! I looked around, but I really could not tell where the fluid had originated from as my engine was painted black and the bottom of the car was somewhat damp from the drive home. So I wiped up as best as I could and left a cardboard piece underneath the car to trace my leaks. I almost cried at what I found the next day, all along the passenger side, drips from the oil filter, transmission, oil pan, oil pan drain plug, between the head and the block and between the valve cover and the head! My brain was racing, blown head gasket, crank seal failure, leaking core plugs, oil filter gasket failure, the possibilities raced in. But then I found some fluid pooling under the starter, and my brain started working. The starter does not have any oil in it, or run on it nor should oil find a way to be on it, this must have come dribbled down from somewhere else, I kept tracing hire and hire tightening bolts as I went along. I realized I may have forgotten to have fully tightened the cover since my valve gap fiasco so I tightened up the cover and found one coolant clamp that needed a little more tightening. I then decided I really should take a picture of the car outside the garage and while I am at it why don't I practice driving a bit. But man people are ruthless, it is much later in the evening but people are tail gating me up hills and all that fun stuff. I abandoned practicing uphill shifting and found a school parking lot to practice taking off from a stop. A little into the practice I begin to notice the car is having a harder and harder time starting after each stall. I then start hearing a pretty strong screeching noise between 1-2k rpm! I look over at my handy volt meter and it is down from 14 volts, barely hovering above 12. On cranking I am getting about 6.7 volts compared to the usual 7.4-8 volts, my alternator belt was loose! I had brought my tools, but no flash light so I hurried back to the garage. Turned the car off and pulled the alternator out a bit. After firing back up, voltage went straight back to 14 volts even with the fans and lights on, happy days. But then I noticed the motor was once again covered in oil, but this time with the fans on, I could see it was dripping from one corner of the head blowing downwind and was hitting a coolant line, then splashing and coating the starter, filter, and transmission, problem found! Looks like my valve cover gasket is just not good enough, and I will have to order a new one. I have an appointment scheduled with the local Z shop to take a look at some of the alignment and gasket problems I am having, I plan on taking off the door and fenders before then to give them a little better body work and try my hand at one more alignment. Hopefully she will be sorted soon enough and all I have to do is put some miles under my belt. Things to do: Increase travel distance of parking brake cable. Replace valve cover gasket. Repaint valve cover. Do a hot valve adjust. Buy a tunable timing light and set timing. Install choke cables. Install rear sway bar. Get fuel gauge working.

Looks like an early z engine, how about the oil spray bar? If it is sitting at an angle as they tend to do, the cam could be tapping against it.

Sorry about replying to an off topic post, but... The kit on ebay is preflared, and cut to different lengths. It comes with unions to connect two of them for the longer bits like the line that feeds the rear brakes. The lines are CuNiFer and bend by hand very easily, I did get a tube bender for the trickier bits, but I ended up using a pipe plier, much more precise and sharper bends, I even redid the hardline that feeds the calipers (mounted on the struts) with some of the leftovers. If you are just replacing stock lines everything is the correct thread so you shouldn't need to reflare any lines. If you are adding new tech or inline pieces I recommend the ridgid double brake flaring tool or the eastwood tool. I snapped the first two kits I used of the cheap generic kind, but the ridgid one pops out perfect flares each time and is much kinder to your hands, I did not have the money to drop on an eastwood flare tool. Once again I don't think you will need it for replacing stock lines unless you kink a few pieces.

Fuseable links on a 240z is actually a very thin gauge length of wire which I believe runs from your starter back to the wiring harness. So does the car die at all with the lights off? What are you using when the car dies? (Wiper, radio, lights, etc etc) What does the ammeter say when the car is about to die?

I suspect PMC was referring to the RB20 "kit" head being bolted onto a stock bottom end not even making close to 300hp? But very cool info, thanks for sharing the knowledge!

^All my connectors are a tinged brown, I really did not want to think of trying to run more voltage through them. I did the relays myself. If you have done fog lights or accessories it is the same principle (not bad to learn, my fans, fuel pump, headlights, are all relayed, if you are lazy you can even find labeled relay kit with connectors), the guy who makes the relays for MSA is local (washington state), so you could probably buy them direct from him if you wanted the awesomeness of plug and play/and wanted to keep the possibility of going back to stock. My ratings: Stock not great Stock with new sealed beams better H4 Stock with new sealed beams and relays, pretty darn decent H4 relays better H4 HID's great light output, pretty terrible cutoff (a lot of the light bounces around in the bucket)