seattlejester

Pretty sure the sx hub won't fit on the 240, just looking up the bearing will tell you that they run different sizes and most likely widths. So without a trip to the machine shop to bore it to a similar size and shave it down for the correct width not that great of a chance of them going on. Plus the stock front rotor size on a 240sx is almost 3/4 of an inch smaller than that on the Z but it is vented so the caliper won't fit, and even if it did, it wouldn't function correctly. If you grafted the sx spindle and hub into your Z strut, you would be faced with the problem of different tie rods, lca's, sway bar mounts, etc. And grafting the whole sx suspension is a fairly ridiculous task, requiring a literal graft of the entire front end, followed by reinforcement and fair amount of welding, this would also leave you with the problem of having to source an sx engine as the cross member would be different. So the answer would be no, unless you have access to a race shop/machine shop/welder.

As far as exhaust vids go, best one I've seen

If you give the car more than a little bit of gas does it stay stationary? As in the engine revs, but the car really isn't moving (very diagnostic if you can do this facing uphill)? Does the car stall when it's in gear? If the clutch assembly isn't working properly or the slave is supplying partial pressure, or the clutch assembly was installed incorrectly it can be causing pre-emptive slip. So even when you are completely off the pedal the motor isn't fully engaged to the transmission. I know anecdotes aren't the best, but we had a friend that just replaced his clutch and had the same problem. Car would start and rev perfectly fine, but wouldn't move unless it was fed gas at a very slow rate, could barely go up hills as the clutch continued to slip. At the time we thought it was either air in the clutch line, or a problem with the clutch pedal return spring or something of the sort as he swore up and down he installed everything correctly. Turned out he didn't torque his pressure plate down 100% and either the bolts rattled loose or he sheered them so the clutch was backing off of the motor when it supplied too much torque, so it would only move when engine speeds were very very low and was only engaging from the pressure the throwout bearing was putting on the pressure plate/clutch.

If your're sure the clutch is fine, maybe check the clutch fluid resevoir? Sounds like maybe it's poor engagement.

I'm surprised that the grizzly has so many settings for such a cheap welder, might not be a bad beginner choice as long as you are willing to shell out more for a better welder in the very close future. If the body work requires a welder, it really isn't simple . For body panels mig really is a must, flux really just doesn't cut it for thinner stuff despite what they advertise, the allure of welding without a tank is very very quickly offset by the amount of slag and finishing work you have to do, that is if you don't blow through first. But I have to agree with everyone above, buying one of the big 3 used will be better in the long run, never having to doubt if your welder will work is a huge help, if something fails, it's either a bad ground, out of wire, out of gas, or dirty work surface, all easily fixable. You will make up more than you paid real quick, and you can also sell the welder when the time comes for pretty much the purchase amount. My time line: Learned how to weld... Bought a 90 amp welder from Harbor Freight... Returned it after 20 minutes of use (2-3 minutes of welding, followed by 17-18 swearing)... Bought a used hobart 130 for 450 with a cart, a spool, and accessories... Got a co2 tank and traded it in for an argon/co2 tank... Then proceeded to do: my entire floor (twice), my own frame rails, battery tray, fire wall, fuel box, harness bar, fix my roll bar, strut bars, jack points, seat mounts, and numerous patches.

Are my eyes fooling me, or am I seeing inboard brakes in the rear?

Not seeing anything on their site, hopefully they'll release what strange swap they've done.

Update . Probably should have waited for another hand, ended up scratching the fresh paint, but nothing a new coat won't fix. Put the hood on to check for clearance. If anyone has a Z I can check out, I need to see how the hood closes, not sure where it rubs. Then voila, hopefully everything clears, haha. Then decided to just tack in the rear strut bar, don't think it will ever need to come out. Edit: Twas a nice day, so I decided I'd paint all the bars going into my car. There was a slight cross wind, so I had to get closer to compensate, ended up running a lot more than I wanted to, I'll have to setup a paint booth inside to avoid that. Had my first run in with reactive paint, the primer reacted to something on the roll bar and bubbled off quite a bit of it, will need to sand and repaint that portion. Blah blah, more work more work.

PO story for ya'll, if you look at the license plate you can see white paint, the car's original color. The PO had sprayed primer on over a layer of dirt, so a little rubbing and off it came. Don't be a bad PO, stay in school .

Sorry just ran down and snapped a few pics so forgive the lighting/quality Rocker repair, not complete, but on its way. How the passenger side looks. And how the driver looks! Smooth and beautiful. The engine bay, just waiting some clear. The little flap. Before for reference

Sorry, car is sitting in it's home at the bottom of a hill and my little fwd couldn't even make it out of the driveway to get there (took an hour to get out of my driveway today). Hopefully none of the melting ice will make its way in and ruin all my progress, hope to have an update tomorrow. Despite spending a bunch on food, still managed to save enough for either wheels, or weather strip and front chin, decisions decisions . For those who are picture deprived...

She's japanese, unless you asked her in japanese it's no surprise she didn't respond. She did state that they are octopus legs, aka watanabe rs. I'd say it's a toss between 15 or 16 as well, looks like 9.5 in back, possibly 8.5 in front, definite stagger in width.

Seattle I can do, the pickings aren't that great though.

Thanks for the replies, not to familiar with with the japanese carbs, are they pretty easy to source? Here's another pic.

Curious about something I saw the other day. Hoping some gurus could help identify it, my search couldn't find any images, and my books yielded no results. Stamped with Japan E30 on the top, never seen this type before, looks to be for a 6 cylinder L-engine. Is this an old school single carb conversion? Anyone know what kind of carb it employed? Any info?

Well it really depends on how much work you want to do and are capable of doing. If you remain stock and purchase a LHD shell to convert, you will have to move the BMC, booster, clutch, and all that over to the right, which would require cutting/reinforcing/welding/drilling, etc, usually why people just end up buying a RHD firewall. The heater and dash would have to be sourced from a RHD or else your steering column would end up in the glove box, basically everything on the list will be needed. You could reduce the problems if you used a stand alone pedal box, but that would be quite a bit of money. Someone can correct me if I'm wrong, but I don't think the turning radius would change all that much from just the steering rack, the ratio might be lower so you would have to turn the steering wheel less for a given turn, but the turning circle would still max out at the same point as the tire would hit the TC rod. You could get the same effect by using shorter steering knuckles.

When you go to the auto store and ask for parts from the following: nissan quest, toyota 4x4, 1979 280zx, 1971 240z, miata, 300zx, 240sx, blah blah blah.

Haha, should have seen that response coming, looking forward to seeing another Z . I've heard that most aftermarket truck places have a huge press that makes our spindle pin look like a joke so that's my end solution, going to try the 20 ton press I have access to if my little 12 ton doesn't do the job, still really considering not messing with it on this suspension set. Planning on purchasing another set to section and coilover, but that's in the future so maybe leave it alone till then. Well my car needs pretty much all of the weather stripping so a kit is still up there, there's one partial on craigs list that I'm considering, but it doesn't have the super expensive doors or windshield . I'm gonna make a run up to the junk yard sometime soon for a honda wiper motor and some weather stripping, I'll keep an eye out for the wiper arm assembly for ya. Progress: Finished sealing the floor and engine bay, started by using a flux brush, but ended up using a gloved finger, turned out much better than a brush, went through probably 20 pairs of gloves, only took 1 tube of seam sealer, still have 2 tubes left >.<. Seam sealed the bottom of the car and the rocker, definitely looks like the rocker was replaced at some point has specs of gold which I'm guessing is copper or brass brazing? Will probably have to be replaced eventually, let's shoot for 5 years from now . Plugged some holes, I have the rear strut bar to make, the horizontal bar for the front strut brace, and the gap lid left to weld. Engine bay just needs clear coat before I start putting stuff back. Interior hasn't been touched as I wanted to take care of any potential floor welding before, so interior is next. Exterior, putting the car back to black before squirting on the white, body filler was grey/red/yellow/white; couldn't figure out how to take off the trim pieces, so just taped them off for now. Mini projects: Found some matte clear, so thought I'd compare white paint with matte clear, versus satin paint with gloss clear, vs satin paint with matte clear on the roll bar/strut bars. Tempted to order fender mirrors and the front chin to give my car it's face it's been missing for so long. Still have a few dents in the door and fender to deal with, the fender is off of one of the models that had the chrome stripe, so the pin holes need to be welded shut. Questions: What are the holes on the bottom of the rocker used for? I can only imagine it was used to drain water or solvent when the car was made at the factory, is it safe to plug the holes up?

OmakZ: Hah, you'd have to retract a broken bolt first, but I think wipers might be necessary around these parts . Is your car over here? I'd really like to check out the fitment of the konig's in person if you have time. Classes have rolled around again, I think I'll be manipulating my schedule to give me a few days off to work at my jobs/car. Almost made a very irrational decision to purchase some watanbe's instead of much more essential parts, but found out the owner had mistaken them as they were konig's so back on track. Next items to purchase: Weather Stripping Kit (seems like I should go for a MSA kit as the black dragon auto has bad reviews?) Xenon Urethane Front Chin Spoiler (will wait until on sale) Rear spindle pins? (still on the fence as to if I should remove them or not ) Next services to investigate: Windshield and corner window installer (I'd hate to have them leak) Next items to install: Suspension, new bushings, sway bars, wheels Brakes and fuel lines All strut/roll/harness bars Next items to research: Sound deadening Carpet Weather mats Modifying interior panels to fit harness bar/strut bar Electrical wiring (New fuse box, lots of connectors and wires? Or modify old wiring) Engine rebuild parts for my frankenstein engine

How'd you manage to get the supras to fit in the front? I thought the hub bore was in the 60's for toyotas. Car looks great by the way!

Yup that's the one, they sent me replacement lines real quick when I found 3 of the lines were bubble flared. The lines bend real easy, easy enough to add a few bends to take up slack if the line is too long for a given space.

I've heard something similar, but the downside is that an import/customs officer can take the vehicle for being improperly certified with no reimbursement. Won't be an issue if they reduce the 25 year ban, or the 25 years are up. I'm still a student <-read broke, so I'll wait the few years . Managed to brake the what is hopefully my last bolts while removing the wiper assembly. Have to try and extract that . Friend stopped by and helped me fit the fuel box so I can cut out the template to seal up the larger gap, 3 spots left to grind, and 1 hole left to plug before I can finish up with the primer/paint. Updates soon!

I see ones from BC once in a while, but I've only seen 2 with washington plates, not sure how they were able to pull that off, as one was not an R33. I'm in agreement with the wagon thing, I think the wrx wagon with sedan fenders looks excellent, not sure about the stagea, if it has the same width as a gt-r that could potentially look awesome. But an R32 GTR is still going to be the first car I purchase on my own that runs (<- key word there haha), and with the ban up by the time I can afford one, I'll have my pic from all over japan!

My little tidbits I picked up: There is a seller on ebay selling preflared, braized, cunifer lines for older datsuns, they come with a variety of lengths to make the install pretty easy. Communication was real fast and I received my lines in a few days. Probably about 50$? Don't give yourself more problems, upgrading line thickness means quite a few adapters which can be quite costly as male 10mm bubble flare adapters are very expensive, and would serve as a choke point. Unless you are running without a brake booster and running custom calipers I really see no benefit. Same thickness stops cars that are much larger and faster. I do suggest a quality flaring tool if you are planning on flaring the lines, which you most likely will have end up doing. I snapped my cheap flaring tool on my 5th or 6th try, and only managed to make 1 decent flare out of all those trials. And you can find many a testimonial regarding how the flaring tool at o'reileys or shucks easily snap. I picked up a ridgid double flaring tool that I'm looking forward to using .

Been working a few hours every day; I can see why people end up using so much body filler, it really is an endless process trying to get the curvature just right, etc etc. I think I'm finally done unless I choose to revisit two or three spots. We'll see by the time I get there. Sorry this isn't where the car is currently, but to show I'm in a step in the right direction... The front strut brace is primered as well, I figure it would be pointless to paint it, only to bring it back down when I weld in the cross brace. As of now, I used some caulking on the engine bay, some 3m fire retardant stuff. I'm not too happy with how it applied, but we'll see how it cures. The front 1/3 of the car is primered/undercoated, I'll be applying the paint for the engine bay tomorrow along with taping off the rest of the interior after grinding down some spots underneath. The first white spot may be appearing tomorrow if all goes well . Waiting on a friends availability to help put the fuel cell in so I can mock up the trap door. Quite difficult to align it myself. Definitely something on the "I'll fix it later list." On a side note, spotted this and made my day. Thought it was a corvette or impala from afar, but when I pulled up behind it I was stoked (drove an extra light just to get a picture). Hopefully when the ban lifts in 3 years, I'll be able to import my very own R32 skyline!