seattlejester

Don't do that...The "a lot of people" comment is superfluous. It is thinly veiled and obvious. No one is required to be here, there is no karma, there is no financial incentive. Attitude is a good way of alienating people real quick. Clarification is always appreciated. Especially there are no images to go off of, words can paint a different picture to different individuals. To me it seemed like you still had a problem with firing the coil. The assumption was that replacing it removed any and all problems in that entire circuit. If the driver was at fault then definitely a good thing to replace, with it functioning I would still like to see if you can trigger spark via the ECU. Ignition on should charge the coil. test mode, then fire the ignition output should cause a spark discharge in whichever wire the distributor is pointed at.

Hmm the driver should also be secured with a non conductive screw so that the short wouldn't be possible.

The 10gph number is what I had in my head, but apparently V8's run more? Our Carter P4070 flows 72 Gallons Per Hour which can supply a 400 HP engine. Our Carter P4600HP flows 100 GPH and will take care of over 500+ HP. Maybe they are just terribly inefficient and require more fuel usage? Really not sure, I do know it was fairly common practice for old hot rodders to have spare pumps installed inline, Y'd into a separate fuel circuit, or just store spare pumps in their glove box since they tend to kill them. Completely off topic, where did you get your car painted? Looks pretty darn good!

You probably would be working the pump harder with a restrictive line, dead heading a pump usually is a big no no as well unless it is one of the newer models with an FPR near the pump that shuts it off/pulses it with a controller. 1/4 inch as a return also does not seem like much, better then nothing for sure. What newzed says is solid. Test your system. You need two fuel jugs, a measured amount of fuel, and a pressure gauge. The term hose you use is also a bit disconcerting. Really you shouldn't use much if any hose. You don't need to go and buy expensive AN lines, but routing hardline would be a much better idea. I've got a spool of aluminum in 3/8 kicking around somewhere. General advise would be to go a bit bigger then you plan. Dropping everything is a pain so if you have the option stepping up slightly larger is a good idea, plus if something happens like the rubber starts to deteriorate or you start to clog up a filter a larger line is going to have a bit more room before it clogs.

If that was your question, then it was poorly communicated. Your original question made it seem like which was more financially viable for your 400hp goal. To answer your intended question: It depends on your driving character. If you are foot to the floor everywhere you go kind of guy, you can get squirrelly enough with 200hp. If you are the kind of guy who leans into it slow and takes things slow you could have 500+hp and be perfectly fine. It would be a matter of potential vs usage. At 300+hp in anything from ideal road conditions (grit on road, damp, wet, leaves, smooth) you can pretty much break traction at will depending on tire size and compound. So a boost by gear protocol would probably be useful if you wanted drivability. If you want a car you can drive at 10/10ths all the time then power should take more of a back seat to suspension and brakes and build the power to the limit of your suspension. If you want a car that you can lean into on occasion on open stretches of roads then not as big a concern.

His usage included mountain/canyon, so would definitely not run a cage.

Agreed with NewZed, not sure easy is the correct terminology. Easy would be flashing the ECU, cranking up the boost controller, something of that nature. Getting an L28et to 400hp would require either a fairly large high flowing turbo and cramming air into it, or quite a bit of head work and tweaking of a lot of parts to get it to work up there reliably and happily. I will say I did see someone with a 250 shot of nitrous on basically a stock L28, so indeed in some ways it may be easy, but yea... Looking at the weight comment, looks like we are talking about 100lbs or so? Not terribly a deal breaker in my book especially if you play around with mounting. Granted you will of course loose some of the nimbleness that the early Z cars were associated with, but the power difference I think makes up for more then that. Personally I could stand to loose about 40-50lbs so there is always that option . The guy is indeed fairly new to the chassis, given where I was at during my swap we had a few little exchanges regarding some do's and don'ts. Pretty darn receptive to criticism to his credit, and I will say bold in some sense to really put yourself out there to criticism. He does tend to talk quite a bit though, a lot of stream of consciousness, but the work is so relevant it is hard not to keep tabs on it. Regarding the 2jz weaknesses, Nelsonian is definitely on track. They have a bit of mysticism, but anyone who has really looked into them can tell you they have their own problems to address. The rubber on the harmonic damper is not that great especially when you rapidly increase RPM's (inertia and all). If you want a glimpse of potential problems, looking at the thrust bearing issues and crank walk, apparently something that does affect the JZ's as well as the 4g63. Oil pumps are also another really depressing section to look at. The FMS leaking or being blown out, cracked oil pump gears. All engines really have weaknesses, the benefit of a popular engine like the 2jz is there are some very smart people looking into the causes and offering solutions. I definitely took the middle route. Finances definitely was a factor, I think with the main caps, honing, new rings, new bearings, upgraded pump I was looking at adding another 2k, that is a couple months of saving/overtime in my play around budget for me. I did do the gates timing belt, ARP head studs, rebuild the head, replace the water pump. Opening the block and seeing the factory cross hatching in place and being told the compression values were good kind of made it seem like I would be throwing away value. That combined with some posts that the newer replacement pumps were cracking near the pressure relief valve made me keep the old unit as well. Definitely half assed, we'll see if it pays off. So far the engine is making good oil pressure and not smoking or leaking so I am ever hopeful. It does depend on where you are. If you have the space, time, and resources to pull the block and replace it at will, getting into a 2jz is definitely an option, especially if you are set at power levels being thrown around here at 400-600hp. I think Avernier has done a couple over a couple weekends at a crazy budget. If you are paying to have the car worked on, then a swap is probably not a great idea unless the person you are working with are known for their swapping prowess and finish work. If you are making lists it definitely is an option to keep open, but as many will say, if numbers are your goal in budget/end game hp, an LS swap is going to really shine.

Just for reference The Bosch BIP373 ignition module is nearly a drop in replacement for the VB921, with one exception: you must use a mica insulator kit between the BIP373 and heat sink when you mount it because the mounting tab is 'live'. Does the unit appear damaged? The only one I found burnt was physically burnt and smoldering. Still curious if this is the actual cause, because where we left off it seems like you can't get the coil to fire manually. Which would indicate the hardware on the engine side being at fault.

600hp for backroads and mountains is pretty silly unless you have huge long sweepers. The brakes and suspension to handle sudden changes with that much power would be pretty outlandish as well. Also not sure if there are loads of datsuns out there pushing 600+hp. They are out there for sure, but I imagine the word terrifying to describe how they are to drive. Have you been in cars this light with this much hp? We are talking like a v8 swapped miata in terms of power to weight.

Honestly do what you want. Will you be happy with the, easier, cheaper, faster, different option? Unless your end game is just a number, sit down and think what you want to do. A couple points: Complaining about transmission options is moot. Once you step out of the 200-300hp range chances are regardless of the engine you are going to have to step up to a beefier transmission option whether that is the CD009, R154, T56, etc. The 0.2 Liters of displacement really isn't going to push you over the edge there. That money would be much better invested in a better flowing turbo/performing turbo. Spend $200 more on the turbo and save 3-4k... Obviously I'm biased, for bang for buck, probably the 2jz is going to be an easier route once all is said and done. More parts readily available, machine shops can order bearings and such straight out of a catalog, etc. My list approximated 1jz bell housing - 300 1jz flywheel - 300 stage 1.5 clutch kit - 400 rear sump oil pan - 300 engine mounts - 300 oil feed and drain kit - 150 FFIM - 100-700 Turbo manifold - 400 Turbo - 900 Gaskets - 450 That is 4k or so right there not including the motor That doesn't even include the parts I already had Coil packs - 150 ECU - 500-2000 Injectors - 100-400 Throttle body - 50 Intercooler piping - 150 Blow off valve - 50-150 Intercooler - 50 Starter -100 R154 transmission - 800 Custom drive shaft -300 Exhaust - 150 AN fuel lines -150 Fuel cell -200 Diff - 200 Axles - 600 ~5k or so? So possible, but you are going to get hit with a lot of unexpected expenses. I really wouldn't try and do a big swap like that, you definitely are going to loose motivation. At the end of the day it depends on what makes you the happiest when you open the hood.

Sorry once again going off of memory. The program itself wants me to download to the 3.0.22 version via a prompt. After following that the program behaves as described (flashes up on screen, tries to communicate, then crashes). Looking up problems I found a post saying that to try that version, but under the linux menu as OS X can run/convert the linux to run apparently which didn't seem to work. So I manually installed the older version I was running which I believe was the 3.0.01 for the mac Looks like the current version I am running is the 3.0.01 so I am ignoring the prompt to update which may be incorrect as you point out. Still definitely some hiccups, think I might just pickup a used laptop to try and run tuner studio as suggested.

Ah oops that is where I wrote it incorrectly my laptop froze when I had the car ignition running (car not on), and tried to burn the new value.

I will edit the replies with caps once I am sitting in front of a computer, apologies to mods in advance Hmm, never knew that, the one guy I saw tuning on the street was just burning like in the autotune feature I am not sure how you would save the suggested changes without burning to a running engine or I guess like you suggested having a power to just the ecu option. Perhaps just manipulating fuel load and timing values is not as problematic as changing the thermister or afr target values? I will have to do some more reading. I am used to the settings that say a power cycle is needed, but didnt know about that when it doesnt give a warning it was also bad, should be common sense in retrospect good to know. Not terribly applicable in my case as I havent set the idle high so the stall the engine faces causes it to shut down if you try a running burn. So good news engine is running and timing is off by maybe 1-2 degrees i can definitely live with that. I set the timing as suggested physically moved the wheel forward 4 slots so tdc coincided with 8-9 teeth after the missing tooth has passed. Engine fired up and was showing maybe 1-2 degrees btdc when I asked for 10. To give the read write the best chance I shut the car off completely, wrote in the change changing tooth offset 8 degrees, and turned the ignition back on forcing the ECU to recognize the change in value, instead of trying to write with just the ignition on. That seemed to have no affect. I did the same with asking for 15 btdc on the fixed and that too now didn't have an affect. I then set it back asking for 10 again, and moved the trigger offset by 8 degrees in the opposite direction, power cycled two times and seems like it responded. It is now showing 9 or so when I am asking for 10. There definitely seems to be a read write problem. I know I have to run the older version of tuner studio (3.06 vs 3.22 i believe) for mac as updating to the newest version would not allow the program to run. In console it shows the program reaching out to an address or directory it cannot find and crashing. I really need to go through the megamanual again, I do appreciate your help! Hopefully just some tuning left to do now.

^posted before I read the response. Thanks for the list chickenman TDC mark is correct verified when installing timing belt. TDC on the cam not terribly relevant as this is a wasted spark setup so independent of cam phase. 1. Wheel configured correctly: Ignition input capture: Falling edge Spark output: Going low Number of coils: Wasted Spark Spark A output: D14 Cam input if used: Cam input Trigger wheel arrangement: Single wheel missing tooth Number of teeth: 36 teeth missing teeth: 1 Tooth offset: 110 Wheel speed: Crank Wait so the missing tooth should be PAST the sensor (further clockwise) when the engine is at TDC? So in the last image posted I should actually move the wheel clockwise 1-2 spaces to get the missing tooth further clockwise of the sensor? 2. According to the diagram posted the counting method would be incorrect no? I'm more then happy to give the method you outline a shot and will do so. So based off my last post I should clock the wheel clockwise now 4 spaces (two from clocking it counterclockwise, plus the two you recommend), and basically keep my trigger offset at 110 (about a 90* change from the picture in post 5, which shows the missing tooth 2.5-3 teeth PAST the sensor). 3. Fixed timing is set to 10* 4. I'm not sure if the light is triggering during cranking reliably. I see the inline spark tester firing, but the timing light does not seem to be blinking during cranking. 5. Maybe with the charger it will have more juice. 6. That is how I start so no problem there. 7-8. Will make sure to do that. Saving the tune as a new file is a good idea, I fear if there is no change after all this there is some kind of read/write issue, my laptop actually froze and shut down when I tried to burn a file with the ignition on after shutting down.

The offset is a digital setting, but i agree something is going on. I went back today and set the timing offset to 335. Car ran smooth and found it was reading about 22 btdc when i was asking for 10. Logically I figured I was off so I corrected, but once again, same thing no matter the offset angle change timing was not changing. So I decided to physically clock the wheel in case the margin of werror was shoving it off the edge or something. I pulled the trigger wheel off and clocked it counter clockwise by two slots. That should equate to 90 advance in the wheel. I set the offset to 80* but the engine wont start at all now. At tdc, missing tooth is about 8 terth in front of the sensor. So something is wrong. The lack of change makes me wonder if my cable or the fact I am running a macbook as my laptop is causing read write problems. Like i know i cant burn changes from an auto tune session while driving like my friend can with his windows laptop.

You would have to change out all your fuel lines as well as get a higher volume pump that would be happy to flow E85. The downfall though is with a manual system you are going to be in a bit of trouble if you are stuck somewhere without E85 and have to fill with regular. Without flex fuel, and especially with a carb that is not going to be fun to drive.

Spark is set to going low. The car started and ran a half dozen times before it ran out of juice after I messed with the settings and it wouldn't start. I really think I missed the mark here and my offset is all screwed up. I assumed the TDC mark was the same on the 7m, but looking back looks like it is on the opposite side. I think I either need to clock my wheel or set my trigger setting to 335. The ECU is probably expecting to see the missing tooth soon, but it takes so long that it is probably at some pre determined bottom threshold. Will report back with my idiocy.

Better image

My before terminology is getting confused, but I think according to the diagram above my teeth are 33.5 teeth after if I'm not mistaken? Sensor seems to be reading correctly as I'm getting a pulse to the timing light regularly, I can setup a sync loss gauge if that is what you think might be happening.

Well shoot maybe I'm confused. According to this diagram And my crank setup I should be at 335*? I get that I could be 180 out due to the wasted spark nature. The guy who set me up last time and verified timing set the values up and the car ran so I'm not sure whats going on here.

Hey guys, I'm having some trouble here and it is not making sense hoping I could get some more input. 2jzge na-t running a MS2 v3.57 Wasted spark using individual coil on plugs from a 1zzfe (toyota matrix). This setup worked on the 7mgte motor before it. The trigger wheel sensor moved about 6-7 teeth, so to start I set the tooth #1 angle timing from 95 down to 25. With my timing light set to 0 (it is a dial back unit) and the timing on the ECU set to fixed timing, with a value of 10 it was showing a value of about ATDC I changed the fixed timing value to 20 to get the needle onto the BTDC scale and it was reading 8*BTDC, so logically an offset of 12* was needed. I set the tooth #1 angle to 37*. Ran the car and it was still showing 8*BTDC. I moved it up to 50*, still 8* BTDC, moved it up to 80*, still 8* BTDC, moved it up to 100* and still 8*BTDC. I was burning the value each time. What am I doing wrong here? I'm charging the car right now and I'm going to buy some starting fluid, maybe pickup some gas because it doesn't seem like it wants to run on the year old gas, but I'd like to get this timing thing sorted. My only thought is, is there a lower threshold point? Like at TDC, the sensor is only 2-3 teeth away from the missing tooth. Does it need a minimum amount?

Oh the coil isn't firing at all? Have you tried putting like an inductive pickup to see if it will trigger a timing light? Did you replace the ground you took off earlier to test it manually?

Check the dizzy? A worn rotor or cap would cause a sudden failure.

Well if the coil isn't firing manually then your problem is with the coil/dizzy as the ECU is no longer sending a signal, no? What keeps bringing you back to the ECU being at fault?

They are robust, but I've seen them fried before. Granted I'm not sure that is the case here. What ignition setup are you running? 3 spots it can be failing. 1st is a physical connection. A break or something in the circuit. Second is a logic based break. The ECU itself is not triggering the spark Last is a hardware failure whether it is the ECU itself, a bad coil, dizzy, or fouled spark plugs First thing to do would be to turn your car onto ignition on, then go to can/input and enter test mode. Then fire the spark output you should be able to to see spark on whichever cylinder the dizzy if you have it is pointed to with an inline sparkplug tester or an inductive timing light. If that works then you know the failure is most likely a result of a logic based break, the ECU is not firing when it should be. If you do not get a spark, then you want to trigger a manual discharge. If a manual discharge does not generate a spark then you have a fault in the connection or the coil/dizzy/sparkplug are not cooperating.