seattlejester

Also check the headliner, and the holes on the rocker panels on the inside.

Oh I see, you removed the distribution block. They used to only have the 1/8 NPT model that included the adapter to 3/8-24. Looks like they now offer them without the adapters in M10x1 (although it is for a bubble flare not inverted flare) and 3/8-24. If you have the 1/8npt model you would want to source a 1/8npt to m10x1.0 inverted flare adapter or you can double adapt. Word of advice make sure to space the valve so the knob isn't hard up against the fire wall.

Once again, MSA is punishing you for not shopping around. Pretty sure that alternator is a turbo zx alternator. ~$40 if you are willing to go non oem. $52 for one from my local parts store with warranty. Don't forget the voltage regulator delete plug if you have a 240z. Might be worth looking at the Fins Per Inch and row size. My recollection was that the FPI count was more important then the rows in the radiator given the same overall size (really long time ago could be completely off). So the benefit of the 3 row was not as useful given the FPI is the same and the overall dimensions the same. If you are running a stockish setup the three row may not be worth the extra $100 or what not over the 2-row. Agreed 60 amps may not be enough. I know with the NA alternator which I think is the 60 amp model, I could get the voltage to drop if I turned on my lights, wipers, and the fans had kicked on. Throw in a stereo and an EFI fuel pump and you might have to start prioritizing.

You would still have to make lines from the distribution block to the proportioning valve if you are trying to just bend the factory line into the proportioning valve. If you really really really really don't want to mess with that you can buy some M10x1 brake line to 3 an adapters and run 3an brake rated hose to the prop valve Honestly just buy some cunifer lines. They are really affordable and bend easily by hand. If you really don't want to mess with reflaring the lines then you can buy them long and coil them around a rod fairly easily. You can also borrow the flaring tool from the parts store or buy a cheap one from harbor freight, although they don't have the best clamping force (extra C-clamp would help).

You can buy the electric fans and shroud from champion for $200. Pretty sure there isn't much of a difference, seems like MSA just throws a markup on parts for those not willing to shop around. Not sure about electric water pumps. It would free up some parasitic loss, but they tend to draw quite a bit of amps, couple that with with the extra load when one or both of the electric fans kick in you are looking at an alternator upgrade in addition to all of this. Electric components also tend to have a more finite life span coupled with the excess heat environment I'm not sure it would be a wise choice. Most of the electric water pumps I have seen are more or less for more cars that were towed to and from the track. You can get an adjustable fan controller relay kit from the autoparts store for ~$40 or champion also sells a controller kit for $60. I'm running a 2 row champion with a shroud and dual E-fans with a controller in a 240z with a turbo'd 2jz, I haven't run it under hard load, but on a 90+ day here it was idling fine at 185 with the fans kicked on even with the engine over idling (1500rpm) and reving up to 4k or so. Bottom line, new radiator and e-fans wouldn't be a bad idea could be done with a bolt in solution for ~$400. Not sure the electric water pump or water pump controller would really be overtly beneficial. I've found ducting and blocking off other air passages to be much more effective. A local guy used to run a piece of card board on the front of his car that blocked off the radiator that wasn't in front of the fan to keep his 400+hp L28T cool.

I finally gave into the fee because my browser would crash trying to go to their site. They really had a good thing, basically a monopoly and then they just let it go to crap. Guess they wanted to try and cash out given their limited revenue.

Hmm reading your post I wonder if it is due to excessive traffic hitting the bandwidth limit rather then the storage limit. Are they not letting you access your account at all? I know they crashed a few months ago and wouldn't let me access my account for 2-3 days, but then it opened up again.

There is no difference between R180 and R200 half shafts save for the very early bolt in style.

A well thought out and made CAD drawing takes time to perfect. Given that Will was selling these, asking to buy the CAD file may be appropriate, asking to be given the file a little less so. If your friend can CAD go out and buy the parts and hand them over. It really isn't hard to make up the appropriate mounting faces and simple brackets if you are used to modeling, finding a shop willing to do a small prototype run affordably is going to be the challenge.

I think I pay the $24 a year. No problem linking my photos as far as I know.

^yup what he said, that is just the upper pan bolted to the motor. With the lower pan in place you would have to remove the steering front cross member. CX mounts put the motor too high and offset. The reason is to leave more room for the intake manifold from what I can gather. You get about 1-2 inches of play so it is mobile (need to flip plates etc), but to run a front sump you would have to shift the motor about a foot forward if not a bit more and it definitely won't do that. You could raise the engine a good 3-4 inches, but then you have no chance of closing the hood or installing the transmission without entering the cabin. Bottom line, you pretty much need a rear sump unless you plan on running a custom cross member with a rear steer setup like project ardvark if I'm not mistaken.

Some little info I was able to gather. This is to a kit to adapt the front suspension from an S13 Silvia onto an S30. Kit contents: Aragosta? Argo star? Not sure of the brand adjustable coilover with 7k swift springs Lexus 4 pot caliper 330mm bench (mercedes benz? sometimes called bench in certain asian countries) rotor Modified S13 lower control arms pillow ball bushing S13 roll center ball joint (nagisa auto?) Not sure on the next two but my guess are in reference to the tension arm and the tie rod arm S13 bearing carrier (hub) Benefits would be additional camber adjustability from the macpherson mount, not having to pull the hub when you want to replace disks, more options for coilovers, the ability to run and adjust an inverted shock coilover without having to deal with slots or special tools, larger then stock brakes, vented front brakes, spherical tension arm bushings mean no preload on the suspension from that arm. That is just off the top of my head. I'm sure you could probably even dial in some caster depending on how you mount the top hat.

Drive shafts flanges came in I think 4 different patterns. So be wary of which one you get. I do know my 240z drive shaft came off my R180 and bolted onto an R200. 1. As others have mentioned you need a 240z mustaches bar. Make sure of the orientation, it is backwards of how the R200 mounts. The bolt hole spacing for the rear cover from what I recall is the same for the R180. If I remember my STI diff, it used bolts instead of studs like the Z cars do. 2. The R200 front pinion flange may swap according to some older posts, but the dust shield may need trimming according to that same older post. 3. I don't believe the input shafts will mesh, hence the factory style input axles being offered specifically for the STI diff swap from beta motorsports. Futofab and wolf creek are other suppliers. These allow the use of the stock style u-joint axle or the use of the Porsche 930 style axles. Alternatively you can run the STI axles, using the input that comes factory and have new axles machined with the correct splines to fit a variety of adapters. Of note if you are running a swapped engine or a higher output power plant the step down to the R180 may not prove wise according to the late John Coffey.

https://zcardepot.com/exterior/sheet-metal/sway-bar-mount-reinforcement-plate-front-240z-260z-280z.html There was a better option that want all the way around with holes up top as well as the bedding post, but I can't seem to find it. Alternatively you could run the pdk style, drill out the holes completely to 1/2 inch, put in 1/2 inch tubes that end up flush with the bottom of the rail and run a top and bottom plate.

I imagine this is primarily meant for adjustable coilovers. The concern was more so for the physical area available, given the stock assembly is about 110mm, running coilovers with the traditional 2.5 inch ID springs there should be quite a good amount of room inside the cup, the outside of the cup would be the question. Seems if it is about the same size you could get away with a couple degrees of camber and still have room. Might have to use a straight fitting instead of a 90 and drill through the shock tower. Would be interesting to see what is involved. Scraping frame is really not something I enjoy, but the downfalls of a bag are just too high for my personal tastes.

Small update. Most of my precision kit from MSA is sitting in a box. The quarter window seals were fine, the rear hatch seal has now deteriorated near the hinges. After fitting the front window seal I got scared and never fit the rear window seal, for the door seals I use kia sportage seals. I do wonder if they ever got their act together. The story from what I recall was a restructuring with bad quality control, but warehouses full of the bad stuff. Basically if they wanted to get to better product, they would have to sell the bad product, even then it was a small market so not sure if they would invest the effort to get the seals to the better mark yet. For my next hatch seal I think I'm going to go with the universal type bulb seals as cgsheen mentioned. Windshield seals definitely from vintage.

How has the rotor life been? Has any of the pads used cause you observable increased wear on the rotor due to harder compound? Cool to know there are other options then just the parts store availability.

My limited research on the M120 Ebay or craigslist are good sources, usually under 2k, closer to 1.5ish. The part that seems to fail are the coil packs which are sold or installed in rails. At 1k a rail or so that usually leads to people selling these cars when that issue occurs rather then dumping say 20-30% of the car's value into the preventative measure (replacing both rails). Definitely don't need to stick with the electronics suite from the factory. Even modest controllers like megasquirt has V12 capabilities. Run some LS or toyota coil packs and generic sensors and you've taken quite a bit out of the problem pile. Manual transmission options are pretty much non existent. There are a few completed cars, usually running a getrag box from a diesel BMW from the looks of it. Depending on your fabrication prowess you can make an adapter plate and deal with the spacing issue afterwards alternatively I've seen one person make a bell housing out of steel before, that seems insane, but plausible. It is just a matter of getting the bolt pattern between the bell housings the same and spacing the flywheel or clutch assembly depending on if you want to modify the flywheel or the starter. Definitely please do, would be very cool to see. The 1gzfe definitely has a good head start in the manual front. Also the 240sx's and miata's like to use front sump engines. Might look be wroth looking at. Some other people have noted that the geometry of the suspension allows for everything to be inverted (exception of the tension arms, so you could run a steering rack on the other side. Since you won't be using the factory mounts anyways bolting in the cross member backwards may be something to look into. You will have to have some custom bent tie rods to clear the tension arm or swap to a non tension arm type setup.

W220 mercedes V12 was on my bucket list. V12's just sound great when the starter is going sounds like a jet even before it starts! Throw on some equal length headers and you got yourself a budget F1 sound track. The main problem out of just my cursory looking was the exhaust. The steering column definitely is going to be an interference piece. You can move the linkage/routing like myron did. Additionally the weight might be another consideration. It is massive, having it sit on the cross member just seems insufficient especially with the factory folded rails. I know of a couple V10 swaps, but the only one I recall he cut into the firewall to recess the engine as to not make it too front heavy. I can't imagine trying to keep the balance with a V12 hanging out up front without doing something similar.

That was another question. Fuel cut vs spark cut vs both. From what I gathered, fuel cut seems to be the way to go, fuel shuts off the fuel immediately, so even if there is some residual fuel it won't even ignite as the mixture is too lean. Where as spark cut would allow excess fuel into the turbo manifold and could cause damage to the turbine wheel if it ignites in there. Found a decent guide I think I'm going to follow. 1. Basically find your base line by disabling boost control. 2. Set all values to 100% and enable overboost protection at slightly under desired boost. 3. Find a long stretch of road ideally slightly uphill for maximum load 4a. If boost cut engages note the RPM it engages, set points 200 rpm on either side and adjust so the boost cut does not engage. Repeat through out the range. 4b. If boost cut does not engage, wipe out the table and set all values to 0%, try again and note the RPM boost cut engages and set poitns 200 rpm on either side and adjust so boost cut does not engage. Repeat through out the range. 5. Increase boost cut by a slight amount to account for maximum load conditions.

Setup is: Megasquirt 2 pcb 3.57 Running https://www.diyautotune.com/product/ebc-electronic-boost-control-solenoid-kit/ I found out I had the wrong settings, so changed those to the recommended 19.5hz and 20ms dwell. The plumbing is as shown on the link as well for the two port waste gate. According to what I am reading the wiring is indifferent? So it should function to correlate to increased duty cycle value = increased boost. Or is this something that has to be checked and the inversion applied via the output polarity? The problem is trying to set my duty table I'm finding all sorts of examples that contradict each other. The game plan is to set the over boost limit quite low at 15lbs to make sure even if I set it incorrectly I don't over boost. My current table looks something like this: I found some guides online suggesting either starting off at 100% and dialing down the areas that causes over boost limit to engage, and another that said to start off at 0 and add 5% until you hit your limit. Kind of my hybrid attempt at the moment. Any thoughts? Or am I heading straight into failure?

I think the cx mount kit is like 500 (engine and trans), custom drive shaft for 300, shifter relocator about 250. You are still ahead there by a good deal other then the sub par mounting. The tech2 kit from what I can tell is only sold in packages. There kit is a whole cradle so I can't imagine it would be cheaper even if you took out the accessories.

Price. 300 vs 1500.

The design isn't very good. I ended up drastically changing mine to get it to sit where I wanted it. Someone did say that the way they are designed is to weld the two pieces together once you have the correct location. More or less made for a very customizable mockup. Granted people put slots in the suspension pickups and that is held by one bolt and apparently that never moves.

Could be, being poorly tightened it could have moved. I want to say I saw nylon/plastic hardware for some of the drivers on my board. Might be worth investing in to stave off a similar occurrence.