seattlejester

That makes quite a bit of sense! Thanks for the detailed explanation.

Rim width doesn't really matter for determining the gap between the fender and tire unless you are referring to being really low. A picture on your part may be helpful to determine what you consider acceptable. A 225/45/15 is a pretty small tire. I had the BFG Rival S and they were really small in diameter. 23 inches if I remember, the stock tire size is around 25. The 225/50/15 is 24 inches which I think is a nice middle ground and looks good. Car with 225/45/15 on a 15x7+0. After this picture I had to drive it back in and adjust the height because it was scraping the floor.

Question. So the DC motor is connected to the pulsar running gear like the trans and such? Do you still run a clutch and such if you are shifting? Or do you mean shifting an automatic? I've always wondered how a manual trans holds the large instant torque.

Stock setup is pretty bad. Hard to get a nice crisp contact and trying to line up the auto cancel can be frustrating. Two switches one for left, one for right. Thick coiled radio wire with 20 gauge wires inside. No need to run a clock spring or anything fancy like that.

^There ya go, much more focused and answerable. The preferred setup for standard zg flares is the rota setup at front: 9 inch wide -13 offset and back: 9.5 inch wide -19 The suggested wheel size would be very close in the front to the preferred side, a little closer to the flare. Out back you would be about 16mm sunken in compared to the group buy offset. It will fit both inboard and outboard, you will have a bit of room to play with in the back if you wanted to go a little wider. Tire size is a bit harder to suggest as manufacturers kind of vary and definition of fit is different from person to person.

Appreciate your professional response. I would be happy to elaborate. FYI any fool would know these will most likely fit in any R200 short or long given that you can take the center out of a short nose and put it in a long nose like say a cusco or a kaaz from an early S13 into a long nose from a 280z. The main thing your LSD offers that is nice is the dual pattern and a confirmation the stock input shafts fit. Those of us who have tried actually know you can pretty much run any center section you want from a 200mm ring gear in any differential, the two things to consider are the spline pattern inside and the ring gear bolt diameter which can be changed via a bushing. ^That is an example of just ever so slightly skirting the forum rules (#6 spreading false info and #12 personal attack). Technically addressing a question raised earlier in your thread, also in the guise of informative, but also bad form since it is an indirect insult and that can stop some from pulling the trigger now as it raises questions as to if they feel more comfortable going with a company that is very very well known like cusco or kaaz over a smaller company like mfactory. Feels a bit wrong doesn't it? In reality as NewZed has seemed to have found the center sections even though they have the same spline count can be slightly different diameter so that statement above may not be as universal. Although he and I disagree on the differential in question for the moment with some more testing being done. It is not 100% verified, but I attack your product with it as well as name call and I don't offer numbers or facts to back it up. That is how your thread started, technically skirting the vendor rules for group buys. So as mentioned, it is the first post/page that kind of threw off some warning signs as listed and both even being there. Warning signs that people who have been around for a while kind of notice. The Senza thing is still pretty fresh in my mind at least, so it wouldn't for others to be odd to be on guard for any little signs. As pointed out above it turns out a lot of things just happened to be coincidence. It has been shown by several people that the product was received and working well and the number of people who have vouched for you in a relatively short amount of time is testament to your conscientious effort on your part. Kudos to you for that. The narrative approach is something more familiar to younger individuals myself included. It is not a fault, and it is quite easy to get caught up in the narrative. It is also a fair trademark of those younger individuals hired by companies trying to shotgun products. Probably because they are in our same age group. Fact of the matter is there really is no need to tell us a factory LSD is hard to source, or that the alternatives are expensive, we are all painfully aware! When listing comparisons data is almost required. Frankly a post with the important facts first followed by some explanation would probably serve you best. Quick example... Title: MFactory Helical LSD Quick intro: Hello, I am bringing to the community a new option in choosing a helical limited slip center section for the long nose R200. Helical style LSD Price: $900 shipped (please pm for limited forum price!), currently sending quotes through paypal and fulfilling shipping with ____. Pictures Additional info: some narrative here is perfectly appreciated, here you would talk about comparisons to other helical LSD's and maybe the company with some facts, maybe address some concerns you think people may have like US based customer service assembled in taiwan: double quality checked! better QC then OBX (no stripping on the bolts, no extra material or shavings, no need to buy aftermarket washer pack) double tempered high strength XXXX steel dual ring gear diameters for early and later datsun/nissan R200 differentials specially tapered and machined bolts break away torque ____ laser refracted diamond coated goat teeth imbedded dust (10,000 additional tensile strength) Maybe some additional info for those who bought it like what oil to use list of shims to set lash installation/removal tips/advice your customer service contact info mfactory's customer service contact info That last part shows your familiarity with the product and answers any questions that might arise. Anyone who has worked retail or sold something will kind of know the setup, common questions people have etc and make sure to post it, the fact that something like this was lacking in the beginning raises some people's flag.

This is in regards to the R200 short nose rear end conversion kit that T3 offers vs an S13 subframe swap? What is your budget to do this? A quality fabrication shop could suck up a lot of money quite quickly. Funny I'd say I side a bit more with the first guy, the second guy being potentially more biased for the S13? Stock for stock I would say the S13 design is superior, but modified to modified, I'm not sure I could say the same. An S13 subframe doesn't bolt in, in any way, shape, or form. It can't even be adapted without as the first person said a truck height as an end result (stacking the subframes). rturbo is correct that you can do it without the car sitting that high, if you do cut the factory frame out you can have it sit lower, but you have to cut the frame out, reinforce the cut area, add the different pickups, reinforce those areas, then you can bolt in the subframe. Alternatively you can just cut everything out and weld the subframe directly into the car and fill it in (most likely a poor example of this is what the first person was referring to). Most regular shops aren't going to be able to do this kind of work at least not well. This requires a chassis jig and welded braces to do absolutely correctly to prevent chassis warp. It depends on your perspective. If you just cut everything out and make room for the subframe and just weld the subframe into the car, then it could be cheaper if you didn't really consider your time worth anything. However I can't see you coming out ahead if you did it the bolt in method. There are more options for brakes, rear diffs, arms, coilovers for the S13. However it really is a question of do you need that? The T3 conversion would let you use the rear diffs and would swap you out to wilwood brakes and remove the weakness of the half shafts and stub axles. So the difference then comes to which do you like more, the suspension geometry of the S30 vs the S13. In the S13 with the several arms you do get more adjustment and potentially most importantly the toe adjustments which you can't really do on the S30 with T3 equipment. Granted if this is a street car for the canyons you probably don't want to run a noticeable amount of toe to protect the tires and straight line stability which means that having that adjustment wouldn't help anyways. The comparison then lies in the inherent advantage and disadvantage of both setups. The multi-link setup is going to have 5 arms compared to the singular branched arm of the S30, however during cornering you can tune the multi-link to keep the wheel more or less flat due to the upper and lower arm design (takes more angle to pull them to a point of cambering). On the flip side you have to consider if you are running a lowered car on flares the ride height isn't going to change all that much and the spring rate will be higher so body roll will be less preventing the characteristics to really show for one over the other. I can see where the first guy is coming from. To do it for less then the cost of the T3 swap most likely you are going to have a hard time finding a shop that really understands this swap. I would be afraid to see how they would go about doing

Tony C, regardless of if you agree with someone, wishing their early demise is unkind. Newzed is pushing for the vendor to do better by the community. Fact of the matter is that if you take a step back this whole situation did appear sketchy. Offer an unknown brand of LSD to a LSD hungry market. Compare it even off handedly to Phantom Grip and Traction Concepts which both promised the same thing and that was an absolute gimmick. The main reason that this appears so sketchy is easy, exlifesave it is you. First this was skirting around forum rules. You are not allowed to setup a group buy for things that do not exist or setup group buys for future development. It seems you just skated around this one, the last person to do this is painfully apparent to anyone on this forum from the Senza incident. Second is the odd punctuation and sentence structure. It seems odd as NewZed pointed out. Third you did things and followed in the exact freaking footsteps of another common scam that was circulating not too long ago. Opening a website for people to order through after posting a group buy is step one. Posting a price below retail is two. Silence is step three. This used to be rampant where factories would hire people to shotgun forums to sell bespoke coilovers and supercharger/turbo kits only to sell crap products before folding if even shipping anything out at all. They would offer a group buy to gauge interest, make a web page with the listed product that was very simple in construction usually with one or two items, then privately set up deals and get transactions going in. They would even make new accounts and rave about the products. Best case scenario the parts were ill matched, ill performing, ill fitting. Worst case scenario they disappeared after they got a few payments. Those are the reasons that this appeared sketchy, and still send of signals when I re-read the first page. With that said, it turns out maybe you are a younger individual, didn't care too much about sentence structure, accidentally followed in the very likeness of another scam and other coincidences which seem hard to believe, but appear to be the case. For that I do thank you for bringing another option to the market. If your intention is to continue to sell these, I would suggest two things. Make a feedback thread. Have people post their results, their installs etc. Have a place where people can ask those that have installed how they feel, how well they lock up etc, the BC coilover one was instrumental in what I ended up buying. Chris's experiences and info will most likely be invaluable for those who run into similar problems or need to order different shims. Second make a vendors thread. Not being able to post a price below MSRP is understandable. Simply post the previous price which you seem able to post $900 shipped and a "PM for temporary sale price/special forum price" note would probably do the trick. Also lose the bit comparing it to the phantom grip or traction concept "LSDs." Even naming those in the same league as a real LSD degrades your product. Also ask Mfactory a few questions. Many if not most people who visit this forum are technically apt. What makes this better the OBX? You said stronger, better, quality, those are intangible words. What material are the pieces made from, what grade steel, hardening technique, what is the QC involved seems like Chris got one with the some pieces misaligned is that common? We know that this is made in taiwan which is only a stones throw from china where most of OBX stuff is made (actually from memory OBX makes components in taiwan too) so getting technical is your best bet, be a good salesman for the brand and product.

Can happen, if the filament burns out and falls to the bottom and connects the two posts you can get a dead short without seeing it. Tends to be unlikely though as the filament usually falls in the ball of the bulb instead of down into the stem.

Short happens when the circuit grounds sending more amperage then the fuse is rated for. If you have a blown bulb then that SHOULD cause the circuit to be incomplete and not allow any voltage through. So a blown bulb is unlikely to cause a fuse to blow, and it depends on the hackjob on the marker light. If the PO cut it, does that mean they left the terminals open? Did they connect the terminals together (that would be your short right there)? Some more interesting spots for shorts I've seen: burned wires on the turn signal wire grounding on the chassis. wire pulled from socket in the plastic not visible until socket was disassembled terminal that melted through the plastic holder

Goodness gracious.

I would say it is probably worth like 100-150 for a decent core. Maybe ask 150-300 depending on the condition? 300 would be for a very complete very clean head. An E31 would have better quench from what I understand, N42 have the benefit of having the injector holes and the square exhaust ports, P90 has the whole turbo or high comp NA thing going for it. The N47 and the E88 seems to be kind of the odd ones out.

ECU: Ultimately depends on your goals, budget, and what you are comfortable with. The function of the ECU is to control when fuel is injected and how much fuel is injected at certain parameters. Given the sensors required most ECUs will also control spark. Some people have fairly reliable setups with running piggy back units and signal modifiers, however this is really a bandaid, tricking the ECU to supply the desired voltage. Stock: The stock ECU has a bit of room built in. I haven't messed around with it much nor have I looked into it, but on many turbo cars the factory sets the AFR values fairly conservatively as well as timing values. Hopping up the car on the stock ECU you are just playing in that safety margin. SAFCI/II: These are signal interceptor/manipulators. It basically intercepts a signal that the ECU uses to determine how much fuel to add and modifies it allowing the stock ECU to run bigger injectors at idle and add enough fuel under boost. These units usually do not do anything with spark and timing. The 2jz-gte apparently has a pretty mild timing curve and can use this system for a modest boost up, but it is really a poor way to accomplish the goal, a lot of shops won't even tune on these as it involves using a directional pad and tons of time just moving values up and down. VPC: Another signal interceptor/manipulator. This one is a bit more advanced as it comes with two different sensors to bias the input. Still a fairly poor way to accomplish a goal. This one is adjusted with knobs. Megasquirt: More of a DIY ECU setup. You can buy a board for as cheap as $250 and assemble it yourself or use a company like DIY autotune to buy a preassembled board along with all the accessories you will need. This is a genuine engine controller, capable of controlling spark, running maps, idle control, and lots of other features. SDS: AEM: ECUmasters: Additionally you can buy an older setup if that is something you are willing to do. The 7mgte is also a 3L Turbo Inline 6. The CPS will bolt to the head and the ECU doesn't need to know if this is a 7mgte or a 2jzgte. I imagine the same could be true for other 6 cylinder setups. Running the Z31 V6 ECU on the S30 L6 has been a fairly long staple for example. With enough thought the world really is your oyster.

Pretty cool stuff happened. Had a bit of back and forth trying to figure out my manifold. Got in touch with a more experienced welder who said he would just take it on. Called me the same day I dropped it off to tell me he was finished! Didn't want to show all the grotesque cuts until I was sure it could be finished. First I cut off the throttle body flange. It fits an aftermarket mustang throttle body. Given I plan on running the same intercooler and piping having a 90mm throttle body opening seemed silly to reduce down to 2.5 inch. So I cut it off. That also would give me the much needed room to bolt the runners to the manifold body. I made a new throttle body flange by tracing the 7mgte throttle body and transferring it over to a 1/2 inch aluminum plate. I found an appropriate holesaw and cut out the main hole then used a pilot drill for the throttle body bolts. Something you forget drilling into clean stock is you have to drill in level or you are going to angle the heck out of the bolts. I made sure to correct them with the bigger drill bits to make sure all the bolts would go in perpendicular to the flange. Tapping holes in aluminum was a real exercise in patience having to come back out after almost every 1/2 turn to remove the chips. Hands were raw after doing 4 of those. I had to shave the intake manifold body about 4 times to get the curvature I was looking for. This means I get to reuse my blow off valve and intake air temp charge pipe so that makes things really simple. Here is the cause of all my misery. Ordered a piece of angle aluminum and cut it to fit. And finally the finished product. Looks like it will work fine. My only concern is with the gasket between the body and the runner. I used a factory style stamped steel gasket coated with copper spray. I have some reservations about it sealing all the way as I can see an airgap between the runners, but it is stamped steel so I'm hopeful it is just between the runners and not around the runners. Going to pickup some aluminum tape and attempt a pressure test this weekend. If it fails I'll run a bead of JB all the way around and plan on either making my own manifold or buying another type in the future. Valve covers came back from the sand blaster. I got tired of scrubbing it after about 4 days I threw in the towel and sent it off. I really wish there was a perfect cleaning method. Still found quite a bit of crud after he finished, but infinitely better then it was. Probably one more washing session. Before I give it a good final clean and get it ready for paint. I'd love to powdercoat but that sticker shock from last time. Going to try paint this time around. Also mocked up my crank trigger sensor mount. Will have to grab pictures of that monstrosity soon. With the big pieces in hand I can start figuring out lengths I need for the oil drain and feed. Then I have to fabricate the exhaust to meet up with what I have and also a waste gate dump to meet up with that. I don't think I want to do a screamer pipe if I can help it. I think legitimately one more order to summit for those parts once I have some measurements and I can get the car running again.

You do need someone else's map to start up. They input values that makes sure your engine won't run on a fresh file to prevent you from trying to just start up and go without going through all the settings. Find an L28 map and copy over all the values. I would be hesitant to try and load a full tune as they can have a different setup and you'll have to chase down each setting manually to find the culprit. The regulator won't let any fuel through until it hits a certain psi range. Are you getting that value? By bypassing the fuel pressure regulator your injectors are not going to have any pressure behind them to inject any fuel. You also want a rising rate regulator, so it really isn't a matter of taking it off a variety, you preferably want it off a turbo car, unless they weren't that sophisticated back them. I don't recall with the stock 280zx setup. Did you test them in test mode or did you test them by trying to run the car on an incompatible tune? Kind of making me worry here.

That's a lot and if that radiator was installed that means someone changed out the old one at some point. I wonder if someone was running straight water at some point. I imagine the water pump is going to be quite beat up. Not sure how you would get rid of all that other then flushing until nothing comes out. If I recall I think Tony? Mentioned a method where you run a women's stocking pre radiator to filter out some of the bits and check and replace that often until none come through. The problem is that it has mass and will just settle and kind of knock around in the water jacket if you just try and flush it out. Short of pulling the block and having it tanked I guess you just have to try and get as much out as you can. Maybe consider some kind of evaporust treatment to keep the block from deteriorating any more.

That is an absolutely massive learning curve to fully understand how megasquirt works. Realistically more then someone unfamiliar with it is going to be able to digest in a reasonable amount of time. Start by finding the pcb version and taking stock of what is installed on the board if it is an older version it is going to have some pretty bad resolution on the MAP so you may want to look into getting a newer one. Wiring is also going to be really bad as that harness is cut short which means every single wire is going to have to be extended, that means a ton of crimping/soldering. I would almost suggest just buying a new 10 foot harness, that also looks like the old one if I'm not mistaken which doesn't have the labeled wires so the new one will be nicer to work with. If you have not done wiring of this nature, best find someone who can help you. One bad connection and you can be chasing a fault for weeks to months. Picking up someones wiring hodge podge is a pretty bad situation especially if you are unfamiliar with the stock chassis harness. That would be the first place to start. Find out what all the wires do. Then you can see what they cut into or tapped into. Then you can remove all the stuff the PO did and start from scratch. Alternatively you can kind of zero this situation by finding a used harness to install.

Well that could surely be the problem, inhibited flow and blocked passages could cause bubbles to flow as it generates turbulence. You should see what a local radiator shop charges to do a clean before you go replacing the radiator. I've heard the stock ones are good units and good to use if their condition is good on the outside. If you go aftermarket I would say to source one that has a fan shroud. Also make sure to duct the radiator to improve at speed cooling. The fanshroud will help with stand still cooling.

If I recall correctly I think they stopped using the 4x4 name before the 4runner era. Thus the 4x4 usually means the solid rotor caliper with 1 larger pair and 1 smaller pair of piston stamped S12, the 4runner would be stamped with the S12W which would have 4 larger pistons also requiring more fluid displacement. That on a stock master, I think the brakes probably wouldn't engage the rotor fully until you were a good one-two inches down on the pedal, couldn't adjust it either as that would cause them to drag and boil the fluid. Once again personal taste. It reminds me of the 90's/00's when people would throw huge wide body kits and roll around on stock wheels. Granted maybe the seller ran out of money or maybe wants to keep the wheels that were on it. Both those cases fair enough. I agree with rturbo 930 on all fronts. The S30 shouldn't be near the 911 price range. Imagine that a 280zx or a Z31 being worth 15-20k regardless of condition. An early S30 being worth 30k plus with good examples selling at high 5 figure low 6 figure values that would be the absolute death of the enthusiasts also probably the death of this forum, not too many people would be willing to swap an odd motor in case they hurt the resale value. I imagine this was the same thought before the prices skyrocketed in the 911 market though.

Ah, usually it goes more along the lines of changing the water pump and while you are in there changing the thermostat and coolant. For me I never seem to be able to save the coolant so I end up buying more so I only want to buy once if I can help it. What miles says is true, a belt can silently slip. I don't recall the stock routing, but I think if it was slipping a lot wouldn't the voltage drop? I thought they were on the same circuit. Couple things here. 1. It could just be a big bubble being trapped somewhere 2. It could be engine related, cracked or ripped head gasket, warped head, or a really bad tune (lean AFR's will make an engine run hotter) 3. It could be a bad pump, once you start accelerating the engine does generate more heat. A bad pump wouldn't circulate the fluid as well. 4. It could be your gauges are off. As mentioned a car can run about 210 without boiling, it should actually be able to run 220 without boiling with a good sealed system, the problem is that if it doesn't come down you are going to have a problem. 5. This just came to me. Have you checked the location of the sender? If the sender was drilled in somewhere or installed somewhere different it could be reading something not as reflective of the overall temp.

Well just in our for sale section. V8 swap, clean, 16k http://forums.hybridz.org/topic/123391-57l-lt1-280z-for-sale/ SR20 swap, clean, 14.5k http://forums.hybridz.org/topic/125689-1971-series-1-240z-fully-restored-sr20det-for-sale-in-socal/ RB25 swap, unfinished? 10.5k http://forums.hybridz.org/topic/125202-1977-280z-wrb25det-s2-swap/ You go back a bit further L28ET swap, with a real tunable ECU, real wheels, needs paint some body work etc 5.5k http://forums.hybridz.org/topic/122241-1972-240z-turbo-sold/ L30ET clean, with LSD 8.8k http://forums.hybridz.org/topic/118939-1972-30-turbo/ SR20 swap, super clean, 13k http://forums.hybridz.org/topic/94762-fs-1971-datsun-240z-with-sr20det-loc-north-east/ Forums also don't seem to be the main staple for selling/buying cars of this nature anymore, I've seen fairly nice examples pop up on facebook groups, craigslist, and some other apps. They are out there still. Granted you don't see the nicer ones as often anymore as I feel people are trying to hold onto them a little longer. Times are changing, no doubt. A modified example selling high is good for people on this forum especially. It is bad for those trying to get into one, or trying to replace one. I knew someone local who had someone T-bone his Z. Couldn't source one anywhere close to his car with the insurance payout because of the upswing. I think you also misunderstood my intention. No a car does not have to be perfect, never said that. There are some issues here. -Harnesses going straight to the floor. That is dangerous. There are about half a dozen safer ways to do it. -Selling a car as rust free when rust is present. That is irritating as anyone who has dealt with rust can tell you. -4x4 brakes being listed while what looks like 4runner brakes shown, simple error, no biggie. Running that on a stock master, that is going to need quite a bit of throw to get all 8 of those front pistons to engage. -no shroud or ducting on that radiator. I have that radiator and it will overheat without those in traffic. -adding flares to a car that doesn't need them. I don't get. I guess you are setting someone up to throw some better wheels on later. The reason for pointing out the flaws is not to say, "Oh it isn't perfect, he shouldn't sell it, he's not a member, I hate him...." the point is to say this is not a perfect car or a well sorted car, and it is still getting a very high bid. Bottomline, this is a clean mid level car in the modified category. It has some flaws that will need to be worked out. If it sells high that means we all can expect more when time comes to sell our cars and we all should look at reevaluating our insurance policies. It also means that we are going to be seeing more and more oddball for sale ads or ludicrous asking prices kind of approaching the porsche 911 territory which is absolutely saturated with some ludicrous things.

Friend sent this to me. http://bringatrailer.com/listing/1973-datsun-240z-23/ Personally I think it is too high already. Things I spot: a fairly leaky motor, what looks to be an NA 5 speed, no picture of the diff/axle area, flares on a stock offset setup (super sunken wheels), cracked or poorly installed steering column cover, rust on the firewall, really dangerously installed harnesses, and no shroud or ducting on the radiator. It also lists 4x4 brakes, but looks like 4runners on what also looks like a stock master cylinder setup. As of this posting it has 6 days left and is already at 19k. Should be interesting to see what it ends up at.

Grab belt and twist, shouldn't be able to turn it to 90*. You are missing a fairly common piece to the replacement puzzle, it usually is water pump, thermostat, coolant flush. Is there a reason the water pump was not replaced? Even on fairly new motors I've seen the pumps start loosing bits or rusting out depending on what coolant was used. Any screeching noise on startup, or whining from the front? If it is slipping it could also be the bearing in the pump going bad or a combination of the pump and loose belt.

^Yes, sorry should have read "swap from mechanical fans," or "swap to electric fans." That is true, alternatively it should be mechanic fan. Plurality? Mechanical fans, mechanic fan, electric fan, electrical fans? VDO is aftermarket and not stock. The question is if the PO swapped the senders or bought the correct resistance range for all the gauges. Kind of hard to tell without an independent reading. If the sender or gauges are mismatched it could be reading off by a bit. Also, my procedure is usually... Jack up front of car, put in fluid Turn car on, let it idle, top off Turn car off, pump hoses, top off With cap on, turn on, let coolant get to temp Turn off, wait till car cools, open cap, top off. Jacking up the front of the car is required for me as I can't get a pan under the car to drain so it isn't really a second thought, but depending on how your suspension is loaded, driveway, etc you could be keeping a big air bubble somewhere in the system.

If its a blown head gasket I think you would be able to see the bubbles form in pretty much real time. Testing the coolant would be a good idea, although I've seen radiators blow apart when a headgasket goes. I suppose if it is a small crack or warping it could be gradual. 205*F is not terribly high. Boiling point is 212*F, and the radiator cap depending on what it is rated for (usually 16psi or about there) keeps the water from boiling to 212*F + the pressure rating. The factory red line on a stock gauge is at 250*F. What thermostat did you replace it with? If it is a 180 or a 200, it wouldn't open until it exceeded that point and would take a while for it to come down. Did you have to install a new temp sensor for the aftermarket gauge? If so was it in a new spot or the same spot? Have you had a tuneup recently? The fact that temperature builds up that quickly makes me think you may be running very lean if it is indeed getting to a too high of a level. The only time I overheated with electric fans was in 90+* weather sitting in traffic going about 1mph. Short of all that you indeed just might have a bad bleed. Make sure to cycle your heater if it is still in play.