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seattlejester

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Everything posted by seattlejester

  1. seattlejester
    One is a complete kit, the other is just the mounts. I really didn't like the CX racing ones. They push the motor a good two inches to the passenger side and makes the motor sit tilted by a good inch and a half look really carefully at their pictures.
  2. seattlejester
    That bar and the overlap makes the routing of the wires a bit hard to follow. Just to confirm the wires are going in 1-5-3-6-2-4 counter clock wise starting from one? The cam lobe up and the rotor pointed at cylinder one are good signs, I don't recall the timing marks looking like that on the L28 on the damper so I'll leave that for someone else to determine. I would assume yellow to yellow would be TDC. You have to get a hitachi SU rebuild kit, preferably for the 240z if you want the parts to be correct. With your confirmation and physical tracing of the spark plug order we can move onto fuel. With it idling we can do a lot more as well. Can you get a fuel pressure gauge on the feed side? Should be able to pick one up with the appropriate fittings and clamps for very cheap. If fuel is inconsistent you might be tuning the carbs for a certain fuel condition.
  3. seattlejester
    Also where the fuel pressure gauge comes into play. Do you have fuel pressure while cranking? Have a laptop that shows duty cycle to confirm injectors are being asked to fire?
  4. seattlejester
    There are so many settings involved and one wrong setting in the tune could cause massive problems so that is why megasquirt says to do that. I think more then anything it forces you to find someone who has a similar setup so you can bounce ideas off of them. The important thing is to look over the values and see if they make sense. Like noticing that it is set for a 2L with 0cc injectors should definitely ping something as wrong and should be corrected even if the ms injection setting was correct. For what it was worth the AFR table and ignition values didn't look off. I have a sneaking suspicion that was probably similar to what I ran on my base tune before I started auto tuning.
  5. seattlejester
    ^That tune looks nice and conservative, definitely some room to lean it out as you auto tune it, but as is very good buffer room for a sudden lean spike or something. I've never really messed around with timing. Those decimal values, are they extrapolated or are you calculating them out using a formula/experience?
  6. seattlejester
    I wonder if it is a 280z vs 240z thing? Some internet sleuthing says that miata might have sold for over 20k at one point, and was offered for 11k somewhere around there. So value and market has been present.
  7. seattlejester
    I do a lot of late night posting, I've posted in wrong threads quite a few times and had to make some ninja edits, haha. No offense taken, at least on my part, sometimes you kind of get stuck in a "what part do I need to replace" mentality when it is something bigger or smaller. It is harder to troubleshoot when you are not there in person. I recently went to someone's house to help fix a water temp gauge. Found out in less then two minutes that there were two solid breaks within two inches of the sender. That was a red herring though as eventually we traced it back to the gauge not reacting at all. It would have saved probably an hour or so if the wires were fixed before I got there as time was spent on that section. No worries in person, but if it is over the internet we can all be focused on some tiny piece of information when the actual problem lies elsewhere. You're doing fine, factoring in your age your making quite the effort. Just keep on reading. While it may seem easier to just be told what to input etc, it is better in the long run to actually understand what you are doing especially if you don't have a good support network to fall back on. 35psi is about stock? I skipped the actual L28et in the scheme of things, but from pictures it looks like it has a pressure reference port which would be expected of a turbo car. At 44psi you are 7-9psi over stockish idle settings. Running excess fuel pressure means that when the injector opens it will spray in more fuel in this case almost 30% more. I would turn the car on and see what it runs if you can get the car to run. Some regulators don't find their steady state until the car is running, and then some others will change as you rev. Another thing you could do is route a larger diameter hose from the regulator to a fuel jug placed far away from ignition sources and see if the fuel pressure drops, that would indicate the return line is causing a restriction to the fuel trying to return to the tank and causing excess pressure in the "rail."
  8. seattlejester
    I know with turbochargers and such these engines will generate ridiculous numbers, but honestly I haven't seen much above 350hp NA. There is a local MR2 with a K20 swapped in it for sale. Definitely some temptation there.
  9. seattlejester
    Interesting to see the divide as they say. Seems you can't weed craigslist people out no matter the service. "Yea I know you posted it for X, but it sucks and is terrible and I'll give you a piece of gum and an old shoe" Would be very cool if you could do a write up on your experience with BaT after all is said and done. I too think your car is more sorted overall CV axles, cleaner chassis, etc etc, just not sure the market is "ready" for a hybrid swap, although if you wait a month I think there might be more interest the new rotsun from roadkill which will receive a mustang 5.0 swap. Granted, I'm not sure of much overlap with the roadkill crowd and the BaT crowd. Best of luck with the sale, we'll obviously all be tracking your progress .
  10. seattlejester
    Post 22 for the wastegate reference. Just want to chime in and say that before you go off spending money on a new FPR and making ASSUMPTIONS which are a big no no. Get a fuel pressure gauge. Probably less then $20 with all the fittings, and you can continue to use it with a new FPR if that is determined to be needed. You've got a real resource with more time and experience then I can offer in here, but to be respectful for him let's make sure the base lines are covered. If you played around with the VE fuel values when you were telling the ECU it was a 2L engine with 0cc injectors you probably will have to reset those back to the stock configuration or I imagine chickenman's tune would also account for that. Additionally, looks can be terribly deceiving. Buy or borrow a pair of calipers and measure the lines. Establish that timing is correct. As chickenman says if you lock in timing to a value like 10btdc. You can use a timing light to read off the crank to see how close you are, then you can adjust via the offset setting to make sure the ECU is in time with the engine. Then you can re-enable the timing curve, the setting of the 10 btdc is to just confirm the ECU and motor are kosher. Take a full log, which would be under data log? It has been a while since I've had my car up so I don't recall the exact menu locations. Start the car and run a log, if that's not possible, start the log then start the car. That will tell us what the ECU is telling each component to do. If it is flooding the motor then we can look at the AFR and see if it is running pig rich before that happens. Combined with a fuel pressure gauge we can narrow down if the fuel lines or the stock FPR is the problem.
  11. seattlejester
    Great info. I had the Las Vegas kit and the supplied lines were not correct, and too short (would pull at full droop). I went with S14? Rear caliper lines, you have to be careful as if you don't remove or move the factory bracket as miles shows it can rub if you don't have it clocked right.
  12. seattlejester
    On a stock tank? If it was in good condition and you could baffle the pump and pickup perhaps. Without an access point in the car though it could be quite tedious to remove the pump if it needs service or replacement. I think honestly if you had the room for it I would modify the stock tank with a rear sump, throw some baffles in, then as an extra measure run a swirl pot just to be extra safe.
  13. seattlejester
    That is true, I guess we haven't seen an RB25/26 into a 240z sell recently or at least a well represented model sell on an auction site to be more specific. I imagine that the market is there though as that 510 with the SR20 sold for 45k? That L28et swapped car, really jumbled my perception though. Grannyknot: that sits in there pretty nice! Looks like exhaust may be troublesome? I am kind of surprised I may break even if I ever end up selling my 2jz swapped 240z. What strange times. This does have some things going against it like the 280z and the paint kind of going. Mechanically it looks far better sorted.
  14. seattlejester
    Well, good on ya, I was too chicken to try and build it myself. ^Very useful information you two! Seeing as I'm the only person in this thread, reference to me being Chris? Nope . Injector settings are kind of a one time use and forget so I usually forget what they do after I find and input them. Topen: I believe stands for time to open? This I think is the time it takes for the injector to react, I thought this was called dead time? PWM current limit: PWM stands for Pulse Width Modulation. The current limit I would guess is a max setting to limit the amount of current allowed to pass as it switches on and off. This is used for lower impedance injectors, my guess is to prevent overloading the resistance, an even lower impedance would require resistors, and high impedance would not require any limit PWM threshold: PWM as above, threshold is usually another limit setting, my guess is to limit the injectors from staying full open or the minimum value to keep it from fluctuating one or the other.
  15. seattlejester
    It looks like it is, picture of the car is used as his avatar and he is using the same user name on BaT, whatnow123. I thought he had different wheels on it for a while. Very interesting to see how it will compare to the other one. Personally I think it is better executed and cleaner for sure. Curious to see how it will compare with the other one, I imagine it will "offend" purists. Now we just need an off brand inline 6 like from BMW or Toyota to see how the market responds.
  16. seattlejester
    Thanks for that, you just never know what someone finds acceptable. Copying over the settings should be fine as long as the person before isn't doing something like compensating for a physical problem as well. Really you should be going over each setting and seeing if that makes sense. For one it is a good exercise to see if you understand what the inputs are, and two it will be helpful if a friend goes megasquirt down the road as you will know what each setting does. Excellent that should get us to see how the engine is running. Really though one of the first questions that will pop up if you have problems are fuel pressure and timing so getting those two parameters set will be very helpful. I'll keep looking through the file and see if I run into anything else odd that might be holding you up. So for future reference you have an MS2 v3.0 an original B&G 2005 board that was assembled by DIY autotune. If I'm not mistaken it looks like it has the expansion board thingy? I'm not all too versed in the physical aspects of it, but that looks like what people call the expansion board on there. Don't see any wires in the proto area so probably no mystery drivers and such.
  17. seattlejester
    That needs to be changed...It looks like it has a base value for the injectors to fire in ms, but that could be completely wrong. Depending on version sometimes those settings don't carry over correctly so the tune file is generally used just for the VE table and the ignition table. It is up to you the end user to go over the settings. In fact if you go back far enough you will actually find that the axis were inverted and copying directly over would be very problematic if it would even let you. Go ahead and start looking up the actual information for the settings. Since you are going through the effort, might I suggest reporting back here with your findings for others? Things you need to look up: Engine size in CC (it won't be exactly 2800cc) Injector size in CC Injector characteristics (dead time, etc I believe there is a chart somewhere in this forum) Optical wheel settings (should be on DIY's page) Once you have those settings entered, you would disable the fuel pump, then confirm your spark via a timing light and a physical inspection of the crank pulley to cam correlation when it is lighting off the correct cylinder. Then you need to verify the fuel. The concern is, can the lines cope with what you are throwing at it? Looks like this is in a 260z (helpful information to include), and that fuel line size seems suspiciously like the stock lines. I think you need to look up how people do their fuel lines in these swaps it usually involves using the stock feed line as the return and installing an even larger line as the feed. A fuel pressure gauge will tell how well the system is coping with the fuel flow, I imagine not well. Those are the basics to setting up megasquirt as well as hooking up all the sensors before even attempting to get to this stage. I do need to verify since there are no pictures or anything, you aren't doing anything silly like twist and tape are you? If so you are going to be fighting gremlins down the road.
  18. seattlejester
    Can you take a picture of the Engine and Sequential settings under the Basic load settings tab? Because if that file imported it correctly it says you are running 0cc injectors on a 2L engine.
  19. seattlejester
    Nope at work won't be able to look at it till evening. Yea, chances are a japanese motor from 30 years ago isn't going to use american NPT. Probably needed an NPT to BSPT adapter as that seems to be what they used over there. I can look over the settings, but really without a log file it will be hard to tell what the car is actually doing. A log file will be useless without an o2 reading so we need to get that input into it asap. 5mm is less then a quarter inch. If you are pumping 255lph, that is roughly 60-70 gallons per hour? Given a gallon/hr is usually good for about 10hp, you are flowing 600hp worth of fuel through, A: a very small line, and B: an even smaller return line. I think you should probably get a fuel pressure gauge installed to see if you are just over pressurizing your system.
  20. seattlejester
    You tap into the o2 signal so megasquirt gets a signal it should be a pink wire labeled o2 on the megasquirt harness. Depends on the flow capacity of the lines and the FPR. If it can't bleed out the volume you aren't using it is just going to build excess pressure, the excess pressure only has one route which is through the injectors. A fuel pressure gauge would tell you if that is problematic.
  21. seattlejester
    Is there a reason you are not using coolant temp sensor? I'll check back for the tune file in the evening. Unfortunately there are a lot of reasons why this can be happening. First things are to make sure we are on the correct baseline. Make sure timing is correct and firing in the correct spot, then test the injectors. Finally we look at the tune file and can mess around with that. If you have a file for a stock L28et and you mess around with the VE values you could be trying to tune out a physical problem electronically, like excess fuel pressure.
  22. seattlejester
    The classic way of adjusting them requires the use of a screw driver into the carb to lift the pistons so air cleaner doesn't have to be installed. I think if I'm not mistake the filters richen up the mixture (not as free flowing air) so the trick was to leave them just a tiny bit lean. Stop. Take a breath. What we like to deal with here are facts and data. Right now you have contradictory statements, which makes it hard to process. If it is firing out the carb then that suggests an ignition event is occurring while the intake valves are open. That means it is a timing problem. You said you checked timing, but if it is firing out the carbs that is an ignition problem. Contradictory statements, so what is it? Have you done the 3 checks for the timing? Check on the crank, check the oil gear drive shaft position and check the cam lobes? Then did you plumb the wires in the right firing order 1-5-3-6-2-4? At this point we need pictures to prove the statement. Put the crank to 0 take a picture, take the cap and rotor off and take a picture, and take the oil fill cap off and take a picture. Then replace the cap and number each plug at the cap and on the engine and take a picture. Without that pictoral proof I am not sure we can truly eliminate these possibilities. Backfiring out the exhaust can also be an ignition related problem which once again contradicts the ignition being fine aspect. Granted backfire out the exhaust also requires some unique requirements. One is unburned fuel needs to make it into the exhaust, this unburnt fuel also needs a spark. Given the flames from the exhaust would most likely light the fuel off in the collector, it would require a cylinder to misfire basically to push that unburnt fuel mixture down into the exhaust to be lit off by the mistimed spark or an adjacent cylinder. That would indicate a plug not firing. If we assume the above is good and that the motor is correctly timed, then now we need to look at actual spark delivery. The ignition signal from the key is sent to the coil telling it to be active, the coil builds up charge then when the distributor rotor contacts a cap terminal it sends the spark to through the plug wire to the distributor through the rotor to the cap to the pug wire to the plug. Check spark at all these points, a spark plug measuring tool/light will be the easiest as you can just put it inline, about 4$ from harbor freight or an autoparts store. Once the above two paragraphs are dealt with we can be pretty sure at that point ignition is fine then will come time to see if we can catch a failure in the system as you rev the engine. An inline spark plug tester along with a wideband would probably narrow down the culprit immensely, but as stated we have to first establish the base line we are working with is acceptable. Pictures please!
  23. seattlejester
    After reading about the foam deterioration wasn't too happy with it. People talking about it gumming up prepump filters and leaving them stranded and such, but if your sender is a float type then indeed a tube type would let you cram a lot more foam into it. Although mine will read 0 when I still have 3 gallons or so in it. That is odd, never heard of that before. Usually the BOV are pretty easy to overcome and the boost keeps them shut when you are on power, and the vacuum helps pull them open when you are off. If it is too light then it would be a boost leak, if it is too heavy then you it might not open and you could get compressor stall at most. Would be unfortunate if he meant a smaller wastegate spring and just got confused. I mean even professionals get confused. I work with doctors and they make silly mistakes just like the rest of us. Keep us updated, curious to see what happens. Regardless, glad to see you got a tuner working on the car! Oh and managed to fit the treadstone manifold with the turbo.
  24. seattlejester
    You have to attach a file for us to view or take tons of screen shots. First the basics, what version megasquirt, MS2 v.... You don't have an intake air, coolant, o2, or TPS sensor connected? Your off to a pretty bad start there. It sounds like you are trying to blunt force the ECU into controlling fuel without any closed loop logic involved and no external trim sensor inputs. Technically you could get the ECU to control for that, but at that point you might as well be running a driver box with dials. First go to test mode and disable fuel or pull the fuel pump plug we don't want to flood the motor. Check the timing on the crank and the distributor then check the cam to make sure you aren't 180* out. Crank the car and check your timing mark on the crank. If I recall you can't install the wheel incorrectly on the distributor, but your distributor offset could be off or could be off with the drive gear. Double check the timing with a timing light. Find out the offset and input it into the setting. Make sure to enter the correct settings for the optical wheel. Hook up the other sensors. The ECU uses those to bias the fuel trim. You are going to have to find calibration curves or sit there and generate them with a thermometer and a multimeter. Once you have confirmed you are getting signal from the sensors and the ECU can control the fuel and the spark, then get around to re-enabiling the fuel pump and start messing with the base settings.
  25. seattlejester
    I have the tube style, it has a float in it as well and will still fluctuate quite a bit. Center gauge in the group of 3 is the fuel. Have the blow off valve open? That would be a massive boost leak in the system. Do you mean the wastegate? Pretty confused lol, when I had a vacuum leak the engine would rev up as it was getting more air. So the car stalling would kind of point towards a bad IACV or if you are not running an IACV then the throttle body stop. When my car without the IACV was stalling I just turned the idle stop 1/2 a turn out and raised my idle from 600-900 or so and that solved the problem.
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