seattlejester

Sorry I should have clarified I'm talking about that style of camber plate in particular. The ones on the rear for example are maxed out in my application. Even with adjustable arms in the rear the alignment guys were only able to get it to -2 or so without going funny with the lengths. That means my adjustment is from like -2 to -3.5 using the camber tops. You can adjust via control arms, but in the rear that means turning two turn buckles on each side without load on the wheels. Much more of a hassle than undoing 4 allen bolts sliding. The merit to a good camber plate for me is being able to make an adjustment easily. Undo a few bolts slide and get a good range of camber adjustment, for me that means several degrees. If you have your camber plates set to max and you barely get into range with an adjustable lower arm then you could be stuck in a situation like I am where you kind of go from aggressive to extra aggressive, instead of moderate to aggressive. This may all be moot for someone who sets their camber and never looks at it again. In the front you can also get away with funny LCA lengths as you don't have an axle to deal with.

We will see, I am not in a terrible rush, and a lot of fabrication is kind of off the table, I would like to make my mounts a bit more permanent and do some intercooler pipes, but I can honestly wait till winter I think. Will keep an eye out for some screaming deals.

^Not a good idea if you really want adjustment out of it. Despite how that looks it will only give about 1-2* of camber, and that may only bring it inline to norm.

Sorry just to clarify, the AE table is off my friends tune (I'll see if I can find my previous curve I was running), my tune is attached. So my VE values, AFR, Timing, etc, his AE table (car has not been flashed with this, something I am just playing with). My friend's engine is a 2.7L BMW engine which I was looking at the VE values from for comparison. The tune attached on my post is my engine with his AE table 3.0L 2JZ which has the VE values all below 100, which the VE generator was making a table with over half the chart above 100, which was causing me concern. Will disregard and work with what VEAL is outputting. Thanks, I was getting a little concerned that there is a mismatch, but the few times I've run VEAL it did not seem to bothered by it. Hmm these are factory injectors, but I will take a look at my log and see what it is idling at. I think that is what my friends tune is based off of how low his AE values are. My car is cruising pretty lean for my tastes, but I was educated in AFR's on a very broad basis so that may be quite off. My timing table I believe is pulled from this forum so it might have been to combat the low L28ET compression if my memory serves where I pulled it from. I am pretty sure I took some logs with my old AE curve with a small drive and playing with the throttle in anticipation of digging through the file a bit, let me pull it off my laptop and upload.

Edit: wait I had that wrong. The weight is supported a bit by the rear, but if you just hang the diff in there you will see the front of the diff nose down as the bar twists. The bushing at the top can hold it up, but the bushing will kind of fold in, at least on mine it did a bit since you are removing the material via the slots and the PU between the legs, it has an internal structure to keep it from fully separating even if the PU is gone, but it is there to keep the bushing in one piece not to prevent flex. I put an adjustable height bump stop bushing underneath to support the nose of the diff so it sandwhiches the diff without it being held top and bottom. Makes getting the rear arms off easier by a little bit.

It is really flat now, it was a bit more aggressive, but when I was looking at my friends tune and playing with it I wrote his values in. I think his has more fuel via the VE table so he doesn't need as much in the AE. Thanks for that I will take a look. The problem was when I was trying to play with it via how the video said, the initial response was going rich even with a low curve, I don't see how I can not add any fuel other than taking it out of the map, so I think the map needs a bit more adjustment before I start playing with the AE. The problem with that is that even with the autotune enabled it is getting no where near what the generated VE table looks like.

My techno version mount was done that way, I also sandwiched it from the bottom with a polyurethane pyramid mount. You will notice with the material removed and the slots the mount will kind of flex down with the weight of the diff a bit.

I think it turned out pretty well. Definitely some attitude Light output with the solid vinyl is still better than the HID projector setup I had prior. Started refreshing the rear a bit as well. New LED bulbs on the right, regular ones on the left.

Appreciate the responses guys. So far my list is AHP Alpha Everlast 185 Everlast 200 Eastwood Tig manual Eastwood Tig digital (this one requires 220v only though) Thoughts at the moment are all of these are kind of a hit or miss. Granted one really doesn't know how people use them. I am leaning towards the Everlast just for the small form factor compared to the AHP Alpha and the Eastwood Tig Manual. Not sure if I need the 200, the savings could go towards consumables or a better torch/regulator etc. Things I plan to buy additionally are a stubby clear gas lens, foot pedal if needed, and some small form gloves, as well as plenty of consumables One day in my dream garage I'll have a blue I think, but willing to take a cheap first foot into the thing.

Thanks, I bothered a friend who did a lot of autotune on his 2.7L engine with the same turbo although different engine, his car drives nice enough that he daily drove it in the summer. His AE values are quite a bit lower than mine or the ones in the picture you have were set to. Might be he is running bigger injectors or the values or more built into his table. His VE table is drastically different then mine. I honestly don't know what to go off of. I did play around with the generator for what I kind of expect the engine to make even at a modest 300hp at 6krpm and 300tq at 4krpm, it is way way different than mine. Honestly I think it has been so long and I copied and looked up so many thing I fear I might have taken values that don't make sense. I for some reason recall that VE shouldn't really go above 100, but at the same time, I believe on boosted cars the VE is higher since the boost. I wonder if that thought is from an NA perspective. Your thoughts would be appreciated I am planning on consulting a tuner locally, found one that is willing to work with MS, but I also don't want to bring a car that needs a ton of work. 2017-10-02_00.46.30.msq

Appreciate the offer. Let me take a stab at it first before I embarrass myself. The tune is off of the 7m motor so there are probably differences especially with this bigger turbo pushing more air. Current plan will be to run the VE analyze live and dial in the background map, then adjust the AE. Will post results and screen shots, and Chickenman I'll be sending you the tune to see if there are any spots you can see that are problematic.

Looking for a recommendation on a TIG welder. Would like an AC capable unit. Prefer to have 120-220 volt option, also would prefer a relatively portable size, not one of those that you need a flatbed to carry about. Budget $1000 I think at the moment, kind of excludes me from the blue and red. Units on my list are the Eastwood digital and Everlast 185DV The Eastwood manual has also caught my eye, it is really really affordable, makes it pretty tempting. Your thoughts would be appreciated.

Kind of, not in that it won't work or anything like that, just that the newer version doesn't seem to use it. Makes it harder to translate and apply.

Thanks Chickenman, would those values happen to be for a roughly 3L displacement motor? It definitely helps to see somewhat of a scale. Mine is set to 100% TPS for sure and I think 50 for the threshold. It was fluctuating a bit and kicking it on, I'm not sure if that is from turbulence or what not, I'll plan on lowering it a bit more and see if it has settled.

I've got LED housings. 7 inch jeep ones, just pull the old housing out, put the new one in. You probably will have to cut out the rear to fit the plug through. Not sure on just bulbs. I had some for foglights on my daily and they would not be adequate for use as headlights. I did just buy some tailights that have a built in projector on the bulb with a powerful cree light that I should be testing out soon.

Don't forget work. For some it is more effort to cut and shape the plate out line, drill several holes then it is to plasma cut out the tower, and weld in the plate.

Thanks guys, I am familiar with the resources, my problem is more or less just the scale at the moment. The resources seem to run a more archaic % based fuel enrichment rather than the increased pulsewidth ms based fuel enrichment that seems to be the modern norm or at least the norm in the newer versions. Watching the supra video for example I tried using the first point as a reference only to find that my chart won't allow anything higher than 25.5ms which is when I realized that the supra video is in %. I'll be giving it a shot shortly.

Would anyone have a time based acceleration curve that they would be willing to share? MS2 pcb3.57 Engine is a 2jz, but I think any L28ET or such curve would be great to just get an eye on. A screen shot or the 4 points typed out would be fantastic. I'm running a bit lean on tip in, so I need to up the ms of fuel added on accel, but I'm just not sure what ball park I should be aiming for and would be nice to have something to kind of go on.

Fair enough, I'm still on the fence, I think I am going to pursue the idea to completion before I really take stock, I feel like there is something there that might be kind of neat. I don't really recall the brand, I followed the link and just ordered it off of amazon from the poster on here since I wanted the option to return it if necessary. Wired it up last night, and goodness these are great. They throw a really good beam, so lighting I think is not going to be a problem now. The vinyl get's blown out on camera, but the car does look quite angry which is what I was going for. Yea that is the guy, I couldn't remember his name. I think he called them zombie eyes. When you look at them from the front on a white car though to me they look like panda eyes They have a standing meet on Saturdays. I mean the storage isn't cheap, I think it is $200 a month on top of a membership fee and initiation fee. Assembling the clear turn signals, then I'll update with a picture. The clears really clean up the front end in my book.

For sure, I mean any guy that wants to throw a japanese motor into an american icon is ok in my book I have just been trying to enjoy the car in the limited nice weather we have over here. Zestsaz stopped by and we grabbed a few pics and went for a little drive around the block. Pretty funny, his daily G37 absolutely dwarfs the Z. Grabbed some food at the local eatery closeby. Met up with fairlady, we have been kind of hanging out a bit more, he has a nice work space that he has been very generous with, and I've been saving random parts here and there, kind of a perfect situation. Unfortunately just as he started making his car awesome with a brake refurbish, new seats, lowered, bumper removed, and rims (generously lent by yours truly :)), it was stolen. If anyone finds a set of 15x7 konig rewinds with the center ground down to look more like watanabe's let me know! If you see the whole car, even better! L28ET swapped 280z. Anyways, we made a day of it, taught him the basics of welding. For his future car Ground it down a little bit, then threw on some clear coat. Sits a bit crooked, but it has adjustment. Went to a place called the Shop that recently opened. They call it a premier car club, you can store cars and work on them or have them worked on. Honestly if I didn't have my own tools it might be something I would look into. Met up with some local car guys from opposite lock. First time actually taking the car on some twisties. The suspension was marvelous, the car was nimble. The only problems really were the brakes feeling inadequate, the noise, and the tune running a bit lean on tip in. The C63 AMG is also really quite fast. Not sure how we would have determined that *cough*, but decidedly I believe it would out perform me in say such an environment as from a small roll. May have to start playing with the boost settings :D. Finally also spent some time on some aesthetics. Honestly my car is pretty standard, it was shaved a bit by the previous owner, which I finished up, but take away the gold wheels and front lip and it is pretty stock. Decided to diverge from that a bit. There really is a fine line here, not sure how well I am walking it, but nothing is really permanent. First off are what I am calling panda eyes. I've seen it done before so I can't take credit here. Then headlight covers, also pretty standard. My first attempt. In my mind I was hoping for the best of both, but it is a bit more see thru than I wanted. So some solid vinyl A bit more to my liking. It stems from me noticing a natural line the headlight covers reveal. In certain angles the car almost looks angry. I decided to make it a bit more pornounced. The light output was pretty bad to start, even with HID's in a projected lens. So I swapped to the LED lights another forum member had pretty good success with. These fit with no modification other than making the hole a bit bigger in the back to account for the bigger plug, which mine already were from the moving HID setup I had ages ago. Did some wiring and wrapping for the adapters. Hoping to put them in and test today. Honestly not the biggest deal. I can pull the headlight covers if it turns out the light output is cut drastically, not that I drive around very often at night. All my clear lenses arrived as well. So I finished wiring the side markers, and now all I have left are the front turn signals which I need to repair the housings and clean before installing all new hardware. Let me know what you guys think. Everything is reversible other than the headlights, which I think I will keep regardless. Vinyl wrap also seems to be pretty doable. Some of the curves can be a real pain, but with the new stuff with heat activation you have a lot of room to readjust. Might be going down that route honestly.

The AWD one is the V8 one with I think purple livery. Not much info on it that I have looked for. Haven't seen the one from thailand, not sure I want to with that endorsement lol. The boxer one wasn't done exactly well, at least the one on here: But he did show it could be done via just moving the whole driveline forward. Not ideal and would probably handle worse than a subaru, but feasible yes. Agreed, placing an engine in somewhere is not very difficult based on your definition of "in" and how comfortable you are with a sawzall/angle grinder, making it all work together is a completely other matter. There is a chassis swap that is making some progress on GRM https://grassrootsmotorsports.com/forum/build-projects-and-project-cars/subaru-powered-datsun-240z/128669/page3/ That would be the way I would do it if I was intent on doing it. Just keep the mounting points and graft the body onto it. I think people have done it do 510's given they have the right "shortness" for it and mods like shock tower removal is a thing that I've seen more on 510's than on Z's (that is still a small number like two 510's to 0 Z's).

I mean boxer has been done before, and AWD has also been implemented before. Doing both I can't say I have seen and there are some logistic points of contention granted those could be solved creatively or via hack job. It is some what feasible compared to some other options, granted not nearly as easy as almost all others.

Oh wow, yea that is hot haha. I'm holding steady at 185*F. Hmm would definitely be worth throwing a timing light at it then if for nothing more than piece of mind. I meant survival in just the factor of debris and such. Even steel braid can suffer debris failure, but it is more or less oil resistant. The Nylon stuff can can become a bit brittle with heat and oil. Definitely jealous of all the room you have to run the fuel stuff with the cell in the car.

17's look a bit too big on a stock body Z, you do want to go above 14's to make sure you have adequate clearance so 15-16's are a good bet. Running big spacers is not really recommended, quality spacers are going to run almost as much as a cheap wheel. If you are running a 5 lug conversion spacer and your future plans are to ditch the spacer, then your wheels unless they have a dual pattern are not going to work unless you convert to 5 lug which would be new hubs and redrilled or new stub axles. I had not heard of the AZC kit pushing the the essential track width out. Maybe might be worth looking into T3 Or Silvermine for an alternative? They all run wilwood calipers. I get your concern, but seems like you really haven't decided a route. You could pick a really common wheel that has good resale value if you are afraid of spending money twice and just plan on offloading them at a later date. The knockoff knockoff wheel like XXR tend do be cheap, but loose value in the second hand market.

Hmm what do you consider hot and lean? It looks like you have a hose, but do you have a coolant overflow can? I know my car would continually pee on the floor from expanding coolant, I imagine if it did that long enough it would not only loose thermal capacity, but loose the benefit a sealed pressure system. 8AN is a good choice big enough for pretty much any semblance of sane power, although is that the nylon braid hose? Not sure how that stuff will survive under the car.