seattlejester

Hmm, I know DIY has a wheel specific for the turbo for the MS2. Those VR sensors are pretty finicky, so I would be tempted to just buy their wheel as they have experience with it working at that resolution. The theory if I'm not mistaken is that the fewer teeth there are the lower resolution you get, but the peaks are much greater. With more teeth I think the system more or less sees a blur/ curved wave instead of a square wave. VR sensors are more peaky in nature. I think with enough tuning with the gain and threshold on the pots you can get the system to register, but not worth the effort and I'm not sure if the hardware is sensitive enough to pick up on that. Granted as NewZed says the wheel won't matter if the wiring is bad. Are you getting no signal at all? Intermittent? You can "make" a test wheel and log it with a thin piece of metal with a few holes punched in it.

Fernando said he is no longer with the company. Don't know if that means the company doesn't exist anymore, the company was sold, it was shut down or what not.

Last time someone tried they said it was unavailable. Report back with findings?

Early z's have the bolt in style (single bolt to the diff) that john references so his claim that they are the same length must apply?

I think this is just in reference to the 240z and 260z swapping in a non native R200. I want to say the 280z since it has a native R200 isn't included in the list, but would suffer the same problem. I've got both sets of rear uprights. My recollection is no difference in the stub axle flange between the 25 and 27 spline, and the axles being the same so any difference would probably be in the angle of the hub housing if there is one. I'll have to pull them out and measure once my car stops blocking the way.

Good to see you will be on top of it. Really is a simple thing to check, but even when I had the engine apart never occurred to me to check that the pickup height is about right. Heh that thought did occur to me, I did even get custom valve covers to and wanted to change the front timing cover so none would have been the wiser. Speaking of which those valve covers are kicking around somewhere. Definitely feel like boost is fun. It is just something a little bit more special the noise and theater that accompanies it. I've never been too much of a fan of any supplemental system, feels like a bummer if you can't run your car at peak because you are out of nitrous/race gas/methanol etc. Granted it stays fairly cool over here so you can get by with just an intercooler.

Lol, we are going into the deep end here. Granted the number of people who I've seen walk into doors, or worse straight into the road while their eyes are glued onto the phone has grown astronomically, guilty myself sometimes I have to admit. Although to be fair the number of time I've also been run over by someone looking at their phone in their car has gone up too. I went into the 7m thinking the same, and for the most part the engine seems to be a pretty good choice. Cheap, inline 6, stock turbo, etc etc. I figured all the rod knock stories were poor maintenance. Mine ended up being my fault with me loosing all the oil on the freeway, but my brief stint in that world introduced me to a good half dozen people. All of which have spun a rod at some point (sad part is not even making that up, I met 6 people for parts and such, every single one of them had a blown 7m at some point). It runs pretty low oil pressure at idle/low RPM so it can be hard to catch it fall. If you look up the cross over pipe problem you will find a couple better replacements with ARZ who was actually on this forum making one of the better options to keep oil flowing nicely. Overall one of the best analysis of the main problem was one of the simplest, although I never got around to verifying. If you measure from the bottom of the motor to the pickup tube for the oil and from the depth from the pan apparently there is a sizable discrepancy. Run the motor hard or on a turn and you can imagine just sucking up all the oil that is able to reach it very quickly. The suggested fix was actually to modify the pickup tube so it reaches further down. All in all after I lost the motor and looked into the fixes to make sure it didn't happen again, the parts just added up to way too much (cross over pipe, modified pickup, and upgraded oil pump). I think people eventually go with a jz motor eventually although those have problems of their own.

I have a thread in this section that covers all of this I think. 1. 2jzge non-vvti, 2jzgte non-vvti, 2jzgte vvti, those are the three options. Price it out. It depends on what route you take. With a GTE motor you can skate by without changing injectors or the ECU maybe even the stock turbos at that target power level. Motionautotv is running his single turbo GTE on a stock ECU as well so if you are on a budget that would be the route to take. If you plan on pushing the motor or tuning it in any capacity, they pretty much break even, especially if you factor in a rebuild it really doesn't matter. The end goal will be which manifolds you go with whether you find ebay parts acceptable etc. 2. Honestly the only real weakness in the R154 is that thrust bearing washer, once that fails it will knock out the first gear and down the line. When it fails is anyone's question some have never had problems others have had immediate problems. Good fluid like redline seems to help. An R154 with Marlin Crawler upgrades or a Driftmotion rebuild should be able to handle that power level without a problem and will overall probably be the cheapest option. It can bolt up or will bolt up depending on if you can find a 1jz R154. If not you have to source a flywheel and bell housing to convert the 7m R154 to a jz compatible R154. That package in the for sale section is awfully well priced and complete for what it includes. Other options are T56, CD009, Getrag, Z32, etc. All will require adapter plates, custom mounts, custom flywheels, etc. 3. 70-71, custom based off of your desired location, not required but would be nice. Standard 2.5 inch one seems to fit the bill quite nicely. 4. Yes, axles, stub axles, brakes, all should be looked at. No sti Diff is not a good idea. I chatted with johnc about it and he steered me away and I sold mine in favor of an R200. 5. 15k would be a good start. If you start playing with a CD009 or going with a custom ecu and wiring harness I might say another 5k on top of that just to have nice breathing room. So 20k and you can order everything out of a catalog, have your pick of motor, probably even get it rebuilt, get a brand new CD009 or a rebuilt R154, pretty much breeze through it from the financial department. People here have done it for much much less, but as a target it isn't a bad value to have.

Oh, you are running a 7mge. I was running a 7mgte till last year. Definitely be wary of the oil issues. The R154 was indeed pretty massive, when I tried to route along the floor it caught on bumps at my ride height. I remade it and tucked it under the trans tunnel the second time it is tight, but if you build brackets off of the transmission you can get really close without worrying about rattles.

That is real shitty to hear. Looking back metal shavings in the pan was not a good sign. What are your plans?

You don't really want to move the diff in relation to the uprights. You start off with angled axles that become even more deflected at varying ride height (hypotenuse, hypotenuse rule).

Goodness, that looks like a lot of fabrication. Interesting choice to have an exhaust pass through. Do you have a set exhaust size picked out? My fear with close clearances were massive rattles down the road. Would definitely love to see what you come up with for the rear hub, do you have a link to a build thread? rturbo: it is definitely an age of instant gratification. Forums take time to register for, and chances are your question has been asked, but with instant gratification in mind searching and waiting may seem like too much of an effort. Kind of interesting to see, some people with basic understandings of automotive concepts are being hailed as guru's and authorities given the lack of information people seem to be working with. Who knows, maybe it will cycle and forums will be popular again.

That is good info. I really don't think anyone will be destroying the rear differential itself save for something like a really worn bearing or some other pre-existing condition. The main benefit from changing out is the axles and elimination of rear stub axles. I've seen 800+hp cars running an R200, I suppose bumping up to the R230 couldn't hurt, but then again, you know, when is too much too much. My ring gear is off of the Z31 non turbo and I'm running the VLSD from a J30. Looks like I have a 3.54 gear ratio matched up to my R154 now. It cruises nice, but I'm coming from a 4.11 before. I didn't really get a chance to get into it before I killed my engine.

Manifold and wastegate bolted on. Wastegate needed some clearancing to fit without the bolts trying to cross thread. Interesting working with a stainless steel manifold you are acutely aware that f'ing up any thread or hole is going to be a nightmare to try and repair. You can see the poor cast on the turbo manifold manifold. Once again I think it is a failure on treadstones part, the annoying thing is that these manifolds change color when they are run so this one is unused, as long as it seals I think I'll live. On better news, exhaust is done Still needs a cleanup, but that was quite a chore lining up all the parts. Definitely had an easier time making an exhaust from scratch then trying to mate up multiple pieces. You can see the wrap imprint from when the oil dumped onto the wrap and it soaked into it. I have a bit more wrap left so I'll see if I can make do with what I have. This weekends quest is to start buttoning up the cooling systems both radiator and intercooler, as well as start installing things and torquing them to final spec, as well as reinstating the wiring. Really not much left to do here.

They have a Z car in the media section running it, the question would be how much modification was involved in fitting them I guess the next time someone has a wheel off they can measure. Specs say 110mm, which is a bit over 4 inches. I think the stock springs were 3.5 inches? With the perch maybe 4 inches? Seems like it would clear, getting the fitting in might require a bit of clearancing and if cambered over then potentially problematic. I have to say their website is very complete has all the info you want and such.

If you look it up on nicoclub and such I think you can find it, I'll do a search later. Really it is a matter of future proofing to a point. The initial investment of going one transmission over the other is the one to get over, granted with 2jz transmissions you can usually offload whatever option you go with for a good price. If you are planning on autocross and such a good taller 2nd gear would be preferable. Given the 6 speeds seem to split the lower gears you would either have to choose to shift between two and three, keep bouncing off the rev limiter in two, or be a bit of a dog out of the corners in 3. If tight two handed stuff like canyon driving is your thing a 5 speed might be better. If it is just for fun, a 6 speed would allow you to shift more, with the right lower gear ratio you would maximize your acceleration as well. Really depends on what transmission you like. Some don't like how the R154 shifts (with a short shifter I really like mine), some don't like how the CD009 shifts (too smooth/soft). Others will say the exact opposite. I would say to try and see if you can try out the transmissions respectively and make your decision based on feel. My friend finds my transmission strange it is super short and requires a lot of effort, I find some of his cars odd because it feels so loose I don't know which gear I'm in.

Ah makes sense, it would be troublesome to really try and optimize flow with that style as an after thought really. Keep up the good work!

The alternative would really be the R154 or the AR-5 I would think. I will say the CD009 is definitely appealing in build, the extra gear, and the availability. Yea you kind of are. Boost in first gear as a desired marker is a very odd thing. No dyno run I have seen does power runs in first unless they are setting up a boost by gear protocol or something of that nature. You really don't build much boost in first gear. One-our cars are very light for these drive train options, two-with any readily available LSD option you are going to be in the 3.7 + range, and third-trying to build boost in first is odd save for something like roll racing which if you have to build boost you would employ something like rolling anti-lag or brake boosting. Z32 1st - 3.214 2nd - 1.925 3rd - 1.302 4th - 1.000 5th - .752 CD009 3.784 2.324 1.624 1.271 1.000 0.794 R154 First Gear: 3.251:1 Second Gear: 1.955:1 Third Gear: 1.310:1 Fourth Gear: 1.00:1 Fifth Gear: 0.753:1 The CD009 looks like it has an even larger first gear which means you are going to get even less out of it. They all have about the same top gear ratio with the CD009 still ending up on the shorter end. Depends on your goals really. If you are wanting to do top speed stuff then going with a lower ratio would be better, if you are doing auto cross you want to maximize your second, maybe third gear ratios to try and run the whole course. If you are doing track work 2-4 is probably where you will spend your time short of a long straight if the course has one. Generally with a boosted car with the exception of a really small turbo or a really high reving engine you don't want a really tight grouping.

It would be rude to interrupt A friend and I were talking about wastgates the other day, kind of funny how how almost many manifolds have the wastage in the second to worst location, in addition they usually have additional routing after the branch point which almost puts it on par with the worst location/orientation. Must not be a problem if your fabricator with access and ability chose to do it that way, or was it done that way for packaging etc?

Hmm if it wasn't made out of stainless I would say that would be good to use as a base to modify especially at that price point. Stainless is just a pain to drill holes and manipulate in general. Just to keep in mind the CD009 option isn't all happy go lucky. The transmission is probably a cheaper part of the whole deal. Shifter relocator ~250 Custom drive shaft ~300 Bell housing adapter/transmission adapter if using an auto bell housing ~400 Custom flywheel ~500+ Twin disk clutch (you really don't want to use a single disk if your planning on pushing more then 400 hp) ~2k+ Still better off then a getrag V160/161, but yea not all fluffy bunnies.

My guess would be outsourcing to the lowest bid. Unless a shop has drill presses and mills and stuff in house and a skilled welder chances are they are outsourcing. At small volume, a lot of jobs get pushed to off peak seasons. I read about one shop that had one place fold the frames, another weld it, and the last one drill the holes and slots. Last shop screwed the pooch on the slots and holes and they had to start from scratch.

Not sure how well that setup would fit with any car running camber. My recollection is not too much room up there based off of how big the cups look in the pictures. Would be nice though if it works as advertised having lift to navigate those silly high speed bumps and such would be a awesome. Based off some little reading it looks like a piston/hydraulic ram type setup vs a bag which makes this way better in my book. It seems like you set at desired ride height and just lift the car for obstacles which means if they fail you aren't dragging just at your set ride height Also of note, tein had a similar system if I'm not mistaken.

Congrats to him, at that price he still gets to enjoy it hopefully. A friend and I were talking about that BMW wagon that sold for over 100k. Hard to imagine something like that is going to see any milage.

The cross member is where most of their labor is from the looks of it. If you are going to be using a CD009 then you will need someone to fabricate you a trans mount as well as remove the trans tunnel brace most likely. Then at that point you could just have that person make your motor mounts.

Its hard to pick out, but yea you can definitely see it skewed once you start using frames of reference for the cx kit. The problem is that there isn't much room for the turbo and more importantly the exhaust when you offset the motor like that. I fabricated my exhaust so it isn't visible when you look under the car, with the engine sitting where it wants to sit and shifting over the transmission you loose a lot of real estate for exhaust. With it centered again I was able to reuse my exhaust. The breaking point purely on price is whether you have access to a drive shaft shop/fabrication shop. If you want a bolt in kit the tech2 kit is very comprehensive includes the drive shaft and shifter relocator if I'm not mistaken, Ryan will have to verify. On fitment I really don't think the CX kit is very good. With a few tweaks it could be much better. I will also say that I needed to hammer the mount to get it to even trial fit, and working with stainless is really difficult for your home mechanic, I blew through probably 4 or 5 bits trying to drill a new hole using oil and going really slow. Getting my mig setup to weld the stainless was also expensive ~$100.