CruxGNZ

Okay, I gave a lot of time to some people that wanted a patch, but never returned my Private Message, so thier patches are up for sale! I have 13 patches left. First come first serve. Just PM me or post here and I'll give you the information you need. Also, Bob dropped me this e-mail: "Mat see you have received patches if you need more I can have more made now that we have design down I have a order in right now so if you need more let me know also since we have this design you might consider having it made in a 8" X 4" for like the back of Coveralls or jacket also if you ever need any special event patches let me know also have another Idea for you ever consider having patch made like Datsun Powered by Ford Chevy Buick or what other motors you are using also thank you for let me serve you here is my latest Z patch will have it in 240Z 260 Z 280 Z thanks again hope patches were worth the wait Bob" He was curious if anybody wanted a red Z with "Powered By" on top and "Buick", "Chevy", "Ford", ect. on the bottom of the red Z. If anyone would like something like that, please contact me. Bob sent me a 4" X 8" Hybrid Z patch! It's really cool looking! I think I will put it right above the big Datsun on the back of my jacket. I bet you he can make a few of those up as well. Contact me or post here about any interest.

Getting closer. Have both big gauges installed. Now to figure out how to mount the small ones. EDIT: I should add that I removed the stock plastic lens inside the big gauges before I installed them for the last time. It looks much more clean this way.

Don't see why not. But, I just measured and you can take a max. of 1 5/8" off the top before you hit the plastic.

They do stuff per order. Ask them to give you everything without bezels. My buddy did that with his GN powered '64 Buick Special and installed them behind a 1/4" brushed aluminum plate that he had CNC'd to fit in his dash. Looks very trick. I thought I would like the chrome bezels that I got, but decided against it. Lightly sanded the bezels down this afternoon and applied some flat black paint. It looks a lot better. When the paint dries, the whole assembly gets fitted to the old gauge pods permanently. Then I move to fitting the smaller gauges! Oh, in case anyone is wondering, even though the gauge is fitted permanently, they can still be serviced. You just remove four 1/4" nuts on the back and viola! The guts are out. EDIT: olderthanme, whoops... I just reread your question and yes, you can mount them individually from the front. The bezel has a flange on it. Cut a whole and drop it in. They clamp down on your mounting surface from the back.

So, what was different on the Camaro that kept the gas from backing up? It didn't have a vent from the factory. It has a vent on the tank itself, but that vent only allows air to flow into the tank... wait, or is it out of the tank? Crap.

'Tis not a truck, but a 'Vette.

Who cares what colors he uses, this is a bad ride! Click here.

They aren't all that expensive considering the features they come with. The bannana's are going in the lunchbox today, they're perfect when they're brown on the outside and sweet on the inside.

Yeah, she's coming along, slowly but surely. As soon as I can get the gauges hooked up and a few other loose ends finished, I can fire it up!

Nice, very nice! I think I know which wheels I'm going with when I get the ZG flares!

These gauges are pretty cool. Here's the ones I got click here. This is why I went with Dakota Digital instead of your normal run of the mill Autometer gauges: * Displays included with this instrument system: Speedometer (0-255 MPH or KPH), Tachometer, Oil Pressure, Water Temp, Voltmeter, Fuel Level. * Also shown is: Odometer, Trip Odometer, Resettable Service Odometer and Hourmeter. * Several performance calculations include: 0-60 MPH (0-100 KPH) timer, ¼ mile timer, ¼ mile speed display, High Speed recall and High RPM recall. * Various Indicators can also be displayed such as: Turn Signals, High Beam, Check Engine, Parking Brake, Cruise Control, 4x4 (when equipped), Wait to Start (when equipped). * Automatic Transmission gear indicator is also included which will display the full name (ie: Park, Overdrive, etc.) of the current gear. Utilizing the gear position indicator will require the use of a Dakota Digital GSS-2000 or GSS-5000 sending unit. * Dakota Digital instruments systems also include a Demonstration Mode which will cycle the instrument readouts while the vehicle is standing still. This is especially popular while the vehicle is on display at a show, event or simply displaying the instrument system. * Full Metric conversions will cycle between MPH or KPH with the press of a button. If full (Celsius & KPH) metric instrument systems are required, please specify upon ordering. * Necessary sensors included for oil pressure (1/8” NPT), Water Temp (1/8" with bushings for 1/4", 3/8", 1/2” NPT) and speedometer pulse generator. * Fuel level gauge can read either OEM sensor, or any aftermarket style currently available. A universal fuel level sender, SEN-06-1, can be purchased from Dakota Digital if necessary. * Fully programmable speedometer for various tire sizes, rear-end gearing combinations, etc. * Built-in dimmer will reduce the display intensity as headlights/ parking lights are activated. * Fully adjustable warning points alert the user of potential vehicle problems. Installation was a breeze. Seriously, I thought it was going to be a pain in the butt, but they fit like a charm with a little modification. In the pictures below, all that was needed was to reduce the diameter of the bezel by ~3/16". I just used a sanding disk on my angle grinder. They drop right in. After pondering how to mount them to the old guage pod, I decided to use some black RTV to hold them in place. The slight flange on the bezel will keep the RTV from oozing out to the front of the gauge. Now, I just need to make a mount for the back of the gauge to bolt to the mounting points inside the dash. I also have EGT and boost/vac gauges to install in the middle of the dash. Those look like they are going to be a pain to mount. I'll update this thread when I get those figured out.

I got the dash out earlier this evening. Thank you for both links Larry!

That looks to be the ticket. Thanks Larry!

^^^^^^ I agree 100%!

Okay, going off Jim's instructions on removing the dash, I can't get past the first step. I can't get the damn trim panel off! I took out the four screws that hold it in, but what else needs to be removed to get the thing out of there? The dash itself is detached from the car, but it's hung up on the HVAC and radio stuff. What else needs to be done on a '73? Help!

Yeah, you couldn't move it more than three inches forward before you hit the wheel well. Even then, it won't be lined up very well. Were you thinking of making a gas cap like Dan Juday has on his Z?

I had some time today to finally finish this. Here are some pictures to help show what I did. Fuel tank and filler are out of a '02 Camaro and my Z is a '73. I was able to take the Camaro filler and push it inside the hard rubber Datsun filler. Just used a hair dryer to make the hard rubber more pliable, lubed up the Camaro filler and pushed it inside the Datsun filler. Fits perfectly. You don't even need to use a hose clamp to keep it in place. Make sure you have the filler with the little metal flapper at 12 o'clock to make filling up the car easier. After some pondering, it was going to be to difficult to make the bottom of the Camaro filler line up with the fuel tank. So, I cut 1 3/8" out of the middle of the filler and welded the end back on. You can see where I welded in the picture below. After another test fitting, it was determined that the angle of the filler was not the best. I used the Mapps gas torch to heat up where the bend is and stuck a metal bar inside and tweaked the angle some. I went as far as I thought before the metal would tear or the whole thing would crimp. Well, now you're left with a big hole at the bottom where the stock Datsun filler poked through the body. I just used some rubber to fill the gap and made a little hole for the Camaro filler to poke through, but seal the inside from exaust gases. All that was needed was to connect the filler neck and fuel tank. But, can you believe it, EVERYONE around here had 1" fuel rated tubing on backorder! So, I ended up with what you see cobbled together. It works, but it will get redone as soon as someone has some tubing longer than 1 foot lengths. I also need to find some stainless steel springs to place inside the tubing to keep them from collapsing. And here it would look factory, if I used the stock Datsun filler cap, BUT Garrett was kind enough to give me this one you see. I guess only three of these were CNC'd out of billit aluminum. Fits perfectly and looks pretty cool.

If they are the original bushings and you don't replace them, you will have some toe-in issues under acceleration and toe-out issues under braking.

Man, that guy said "um" to much! Looks like a pretty fun and very involved game. I would play it.

Sweet! You going to start racing that thing?

Joel, What are you going to do to make it weather tight? I'm kind of in the same position with my VW headlight conversion. I never drive my Z in the rain, but figure I should button the whole thing up sometime just in case.

No matter how quick you are, there is always someone quicker. I've seen that SLK before, it resides in Dubai. I think it's cool because it's a hybrid, plus he wanted people to see that it had something under the hood before he even started it. on the SLK

Ah, then you need to pick yourself up a Dickies jacket to sew it on. We're all doin' it man. If you don't, then you're not cool. Come on, just try it. Sew it on and the chicks will dig ya.

Make a Hybrid Z hat!