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MusPuppis

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Everything posted by MusPuppis

  1. Ive never had any trouble with FelPro personally. I use them exclusively whenever I can help it. Good fit, good quality from what I've seen. Honestly, as stated before, I wouldnt worry too much about the head if its not leaking, and really, if your losing substantial amounts of oil through a blown head gasket you'd know. The car would barely be driveable - if it was driveable at all. I'd only have the head checked for warpage if it does turn out to be the head gasket causing that oil leak, or if you notive signs the motors been overheated badly at some point. To answer your question though, I overheated my 240 when I first got it (yay for being the worlds dumbest 16yr old). Blew the gasket. I took the head to a local machine shop and they charged me 125$ to have the head tanked, milled (decked.. whatever its called. They made it flat.) and completely cleaned. When I got it back it looked like it was factor new. I cant speak for what shops in your area charge, but 7 years ago when I had that done, thats what it cost me.
  2. Do you have a fan shroud? Can be pretty important to shroud the fans on some cars. You mentioned an electric fan as well.. What fan? Cheap electrics can be just that.. Cheap. You may need to look in to shrouding the fan if it isnt already and perhaps upgrading to a new one. I know Taurus fans seem to be pretty damn good. I have a 5.0HO in my F-150 that I'll be converting to electric before long - and when I do the Taurus fan will most likely be what I go with. edit, Has the coolant system been burped? It may be a good idea to go ahead and burp the system. Trapped air has a nasty habit of causing vehicles to run hot.
  3. Pretty much agree with what all has been posted. A 302 will be easier to find and cheaper to build though, so if your on a more restricted budget this motor would be the better choice IMO. Alot more is offered for it as well. Modding a 302 is.. well, cake. Also, if you go the 302 route MAKE SURE you get it from an 88-92 Mustang. Ford whored the 302 out to a plethora of other vehicles but these are *not* the same motor. They are not roller blocks, many have different heads and intakes and they - in general - suck. Ford F-series available with the 5.0 have the same heads as the Mustang (Ford actually "lost" the castings they had planned to use for the Mustangs so they just jacked the F-series heads..) but the block and intake are different. The EFI system is also less than desirable. I would avoid going with a Cobra motor unless you already have one as well. They can be a pain in the *** to get ahold of and often times the price asked makes it cheaper to buy a normal 5.0HO and just mod it yourself. You will want to look in to upgrading the alternator as well. The alt used on Mustangs is a complete joke and extremely worthless. Major weakspot. Depending on the route your looking to go, you can get various H/C/I kits through Summit and Jegs for the 302 that will, for around 2k, kick a stock 302 into the 300-350HP range with a mild cam. Very streetable, very mean. Trick Flow and Holley both have nice kits. I kinda like the TF better myself.
  4. The smog info can be erased from the ECU very easily. Poke around for tune shops around your area. Something interesting to keep in mind though, all the smog crap if irrelevant except the EGR. I run a 92 5.0HO in my 94 F-150 with the entire smog system removed and thrown away other than the EGR. It should also be noted that the car will run BETTER with the EGR hooked up than with it disabled. It re-routes exhaust gases back in to the intake during non WOT operation, making for better fuel economy and effectively helping to lower combustion temperatures. 5.0's with the EGR system unhooked have been know to ping on occasion as well. At WOT the EGR is unused and the ECU reverts to a specific set of data to run the engine off of, adjusting for full power and ignoring the normal EGR-enabled data. Having the EGR hooked up really has no downside. It improves the engines gas mileage and general driveability during normal throttle operation while turning off at WOT for no adverse effects. If ya disconnect it the car will run like **** though. (unless ya flash the ECU) You should be able to pick up a 5.0 harness and ECU for about 100-150$, maybe cheaper.
  5. Whats the difference in a urethane primer and an epoxy primer? I was leaning towards DP90 which is Epoxy..
  6. http://www.lowes.com/lowes/lkn?action=productDetail&productId=134819-48540-K7060HFV&lpage=none Thats the compressor I'm looking at. It used to be close to 600$ but dropped down 100$. I also have family at Lowes so I can get a 10% discout dropping it to 450$ + tax. It rates at 13.3CFM at 90 psi which is 1.7 short of the number you recommended but 450$ is a massive stretch for me, so spending anything more really isnt an option. This thing seems to be the best I can find for what I'm able to spend. What compressor did you get and how do you like it?
  7. The lines are similar on the cars.. Never really looked at one of those cars before.. that little guy is slick.
  8. I recently stripped a 67 Mustang, the whole damn thing, down to bare metal. It every bit of 4 different coats of paint on it. Green, red, blue and red again. That air craft stuff is pretty mean. If you get it on your skin it'll burn ya quick. I'm very interested in the answers to some of the questions you've asked. I'm about ready to start doing exactly what you are and I'm pretty curious. I plan on sanding the car down, doing the body work, then spraying the primer. I dont plan on using a sealer since I will be using a two part primer - and my understanding of these primers is that they act as a sealer in addition to their paint adhesion qualities. Someone correct me if I'm wrong, but when he said spray the primer on before the body work he was meaning to help fill low spots and get the entire body totally smoothed out. From what I can tell you can buy high build primers that spray thicker, and in some cases a primer can be thinned less to acheive this same effect. These primers would be laid down on wavy areas (on older cars the roof tends to be one of these areas) then the area would be sanded carefully to flatten everything out. Basicly, if your looking for a REALLY straight body, you'd go with a high build prior to your body work, then once the body work was done you'd use a traditional primer (two part for its sealing ability) then spray the color. Thats my take on things - and by way of warning - I'm new to this myself and just doing research as I go. I could be mistaken. Hopefully someone can confirm or contradict what I have stated.
  9. Aww c'mon, some wheels, some paint and a big-*** Honda fin and that car is show quality.
  10. Could a bung be welded to the oil pan? I just shat myself. In a good way. God I love boost..
  11. If UPS wont ship them then the 100$ apeice is misleading. Shipping through freight will probably be close to another 100$.
  12. .. my front fenders. Pulled my fenders today and their a little rougher than I expected. Lots of little dings and low spots. One has rust near the bottom that very well may have to be cut away and new metal welded in. ( 2in x 2in section where the fender meets the rocker). The passenger side (for me) has a flat spot on the upper arch, looks like someone dropped something heavy on it at some point. I poked around and new fenders look to cost around 100$ a pop + whatever shipping would come out to be. Thats not too bad to save myself hours upon hours of body work and bondo, but, replacement fenders for older cars have a very bad habit of fitting like utter and complete crap. What do you all think? Worth the body work or would a set of replacement fenders fit up well enough to be the better choice?
  13. A friend of mine used it in his truck bed. I cant say how it would do as a restoration/undercoating type thing, but I can testify to that stuff being *tough* as hell. Looks pretty nice to. Its a little pricey though if I'm not mistaken.
  14. HA! So much to do, so little money to do it, lol.
  15. Thankya kindly Phil. As stupid as this sounds, I have a rather retarded plan for my 220v circuit, as I figured it would be a problem. I'm gonna build a big-*** 220v extension cord and run it from my Dryer outlet, LOL. I havent measured it yet, but the run from the garage to the laundry room is pretty short. I dont think it would take more than 20 feet at the complete most, lol. I could just run an outlet but as much as I hurt myself playing with my welder and tinkering around in general the thought of dealing with electricity frightens me. I dont know what Im doing anyway and I'd rather not kill myself or burn my house down. Thanks for the info man, much appreciated. By the way, when you say dont mix brands, do you mean primer and paint? Like if I use Dupont primer I should use Dupont paint as well? Thanks kindly!
  16. Allrighty, Ive been reading this website the last couple days and the mount of information here is just.. Amazing. I am now armed with a very definate plan of attack once the tear down of my Z is complete. I wanted to ask a couple questions however. I did a search but didnt find much. Thats most likely directly related to me being an idiot, but all the same, I figured I'd post. Ok, I will be sanding the shell down before long and replacing my pans and doing basic rust prevention/repair. Once that is done I will need to lay a coat of primer down to protect the car. Before I can do this properly I will need get/rent/borrow/beg an air compressor and a gun with which to spray. Which leads to my questions; 1. What are the minimum requirements to run a paint gun? My budget is very limited so I dont want to waste money buying a compressor that turns out to be overkill. 2. What would I be looking for when I go to purchase a gun? I've seen all types. Some at Wal-Mart for next to nothing, some at auto stores for considerably more. What features should I be looking for to get a gun capable of laying primer on without causing trouble? Again, my budget is limited. I will buy the tool to do the job but I cant afford to pay for overkill. 3. Ive heard primers have a "window" in which you have to paint the car after the primer is applied. What type of timeframe is this window usually? Hours? Days? Weeks? and what happens if I dont paint within the window? Do I have to sand the primer down and reprime the car or can I lay another primer coat directly over the "old" coat and the move on to painting? Sorry for the questions folks but I've never done body work before so this is all new to me. Thanks. Edit, One more question, lol. I know nothing of brands and types of paints/primers.. Does anyone have a particular primer they've used and been happy with? Kinda like to not buy some primer and find out it sucks, lol.
  17. How do the chevy Vortec motors stack up against an LS1? Both would be fuel injected, both make use of newer technology and improved design. I know the Vortecs wouldnt make the kind of power the LS1 does stock for stock, but from what I've seen poking around on Ebay you can get a Vortec for about 1k with a wiring harness and ECU. Add in 300$ to ship (or whatever that would actually cost.. I shipped a 4 banger for an old car from Florida to Ky for like 90$..) and you have alot of money left vs an LS1 shipped to play with mods and the like. Just curious..
  18. Yup. Everything I've removed has been put up, sorted into sections. One shelf for the interior, one shelf for large stuff (Seats/dash/etc) one shelf for engine bay stuff and so on. I have a massive amount of brown paper bags I'm using to store small parts and hardware as well. All labeled with what they contain. I fully expect to totally forget where everything goes - but for some reason I get a sick sort of pleasure staring at my car for 45 minutes trying to figure out where this or that went. I know what ya mean about taking breaks to. I swapped a 5.0HO into my 94. F-150 as well as rebuilt my 4r70 tranny (raging peice of crap that it is). That project was a damn pain having never done anything like it before. I had to just sit back several times and leave it alone for a day, or a week or more at a time, lol. Anyway, I hope to make some good progress today on tear down. I dont have an engine hoist so I have to wait to borrow one to get the engine out, but I plan on pulling the transmission, the fuel lines, brake lines, headliner (I forgot about the damn thing..) and seeing what its gonna take to get the glass out. Ive never dealt with glass before so I have no earth idea how it comes out.. should be fun and hopefully I wont break anything. I am so completely out of garage space..
  19. The dash isnt. From the lip down its perfect, if a tad faded with age. Above the lip its cracked all to hell. I dont really know what to do about it. I think I'll take it to a local auto upholsterer and get an estimate on them recovering it, if that can be done. If not I'll probably have to live with the cracks - I dont see much hope of finding a RHD dash in good shape just laying around, lol. I decided against a Ford V8 since it really seems theres alot more knowledge and available information/parts relating to the Chevys. It also gives me a good excuse to learn my way around the Chevy motors. What year/models were these available in? I know they come in some of Chevy's 90's model trucks, but were any available before that? I love having it. I got so lucky finding it its idiotic. I didnt even know what a Fairlady was.. I just saw a Z and it happened to be RHD.. Wasnt till after I bought it I figured out exactly what it was and what it meant.
  20. Howdy folks. Its taken 7 years to get to this point but my Z is finally back in my posession and its finally getting the treatment its so long deserved. Z's have been my thing since I was 16 and got my 240. '72 240 Fairlady Z to be exact. (RHD = yay). At 16 though I had no idea what the hell I was doing and just wasnt in a position to deal with the car. No garage, no tools, limited finances, ******* neighbors, lack of knowledge.. The whole deal. Classic mistake getting in over my head. So, I had to get rid of the 240. I gave it to a friend for free since he said he would restore it and get it on the road.. He never did. He put it in storage but otherwise never touched it. It sat there for about 5 years until about a week ago, after literally 2 years of dropping hints and outright nagging, he gave it back to me. I towed her to my new place, washed off the dust and started stripping her down. Thankfully, though I was defeated in my attempts with the Z (my first car ever actually) I didnt give up on cars.. I'm a hell of alot more experienced than I was (still learning though..) and in alot better position to deal with the car now. I now have a garage, a metric ***-ton of tools/equipment and a alot more knowledge and patience. Sadly my finances are as piss-poor as they were when I first got the car but with the garage to store the car and no need to rely on the Z as my only form of transportation I can take about as much time as I want to. I'm going to be restoring the car from more or less the frame up. The floor pans have to be cut out and replaced (they hardly even exist anymore, lol) but other than that the rust on the car is no more than surface annoyance. A grinder and some PoR15 should take care of it easily enough. Just the normal deal really. Assess/Repair/Replace/Rebuild. When the body, frame and interior are totally squared away I'll be concentrating on the engine:twisted:. I think I'll be going with a Chevy 350SB and matching 5-speed manual (I cant abide an automatic). Nothing crazy though really. Ideally I want to put around 280-300hp to the wheels which should be attainable with a good 350 + H/C/I. I'm not looking for a monster or anything but when I hit the gas I want to make good and sure I know it. I also want to make sure a fair portion of the poeple around me have no chance in hell of keeping up. I'm not 100% certain on exactly what I'll be doing with the engine and transmission though. I'm not familiar with Chevy engines and trannys. Have alot of experience playing around with Mustangs and I swapped a lightly built 5.0HO into my '94 F-150 but I wouldnt even know how to tell a good 350SB from a mediocre one. Research will have to be done. I was gonna pick up the JTR V8 conversion manual soon, should make life a hell of alot easier. Its nice to have directions, lol. Anyone here used it before? How did ya like it? Anyway, sorry for the long winded rambling post but I want to introduce myself and my little project to the folks that care to read it. And in closing, I leave a few pics. (The car is complete, I just took the pics after I'd been tearing it down for about a day and a half.
  21. Starting to get the tear down of my 240 in gear and wanted to know what spray-on primer you guys recommend for general use on body panels? The paint is chipped and beat to hell and some surface rust is creeping up in a few areas. I also intend to do some minor body work and need something to protect the areas Im working on when Im done. Eventually the car will be painted but thats a year and some change down the road. Ive bought a couple different types of primer for use on my friends 67 Mustang and I was NOT impressed with either. Was curious if you all have a particular brand and type you prefer over the others for general protection until a real prime and paint job can be accomplished.
  22. Great post, alot of good info in here. I had planned on removing the undercoating down the road some on my '72 240 Fairlady restoration/v8 conversion project thingy and this helps ALOT. I had no real idea how to go about it. 'Till I read this, anyway. I'm kinda leaning towards jackstands/heatgun/solvents/scraper method, lol.
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